Friends

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  04wildman

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  george-b.m.x

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  Josh133

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  Daniel Dhers

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  Daniel Dhers Posted:

  5/12/2008 2:56 AM

  Cool man.
  Work on no hander 180s and go from there, that should be the first step.
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  04wildman Posted:

  5/5/2008 11:25 PM

  hey I meant down tube when I said "don't get a frame with a butted or double butted top tube,(seat posts and Maybe...)
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  04wildman Posted:

  5/5/2008 9:46 PM

  pick a frame with removable gyro tabs and a angled cable stop. also make it a frame with SEATSTAY mounted brakes. They are so fucking easy to dial and work on. Plus you can run a straight cable or get the mod to run dual cables, or run with out brakes or whatever. 11/30 gearing or lower. If you go kinda big or bail and or are ruff on you're bike don't get a bike with butted or double butted top tube,(seat posts and MAYBE the top tube can be single butted.) also check for down tube gussets cuz its the weakest point in any frame. It should last forever. Other than that I would say the complete should have a great crank (no pinch bolts on crank arms). and last but not least a solid ass rear cassette. The rest is up to you really. Oh yeah watch out for machined forks that have holes in the dropouts, same goes for rear dropouts. Also if you are pretty thin you prolly don't need a big as american BB. Go with a spanish one. Keep me posted... L8.
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  Josh133 Posted:

  5/5/2008 9:16 AM

  around 30lbs (aprox 15Kg) stock
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  Josh133 Posted:

  5/5/2008 2:41 AM

  I have the same bike and you can't put a smaller size sprocket than what is already there because the chain won't fit over the brake mounts.its gay.
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  04wildman Posted:

  5/4/2008 10:37 PM

  Sup bro? You won't be able to trim much weight with out more new parts, but that ride looks pretty lite already. Your dropouts are already small, but your bars do look wide as hell. I know you like them but I was only talking about taking about 3/8's - 1/4 of an inch off each side. Just wanted to let you know...L8
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  04wildman Posted:

  5/3/2008 10:22 AM

  your bars will still be tall but if you likem the way they are leave them alone. Hair spray my friend goes on wet allowing you to remove your grips. But it drys sticky locking your grips back in place. just don't use a lot, and don't burn your fingers with the hair dryer LOL The small allen wrench is to pry at the grips at each end allowing you to spray the hair spray in there.
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  04wildman Posted:

  5/3/2008 10:13 AM

  Your rims look fine, but your sprocket must be heavy, which means your probably running 13/36 gearing Or bigger. Save for a Demolition Anorexia rear hub and new spokes. Pick out a driver when you are ordering it, go with a 10t, then get the rear rim you already have and get it laced at a local bike shop (bmx orientated)in a crossing four pattern. Add a light 28t sprocket. And then maybe some pedals.Your looking at about 200 american dollars for the new wheel and sprocket, add labor and your probably well under 250 american dollars. Pedals are expensive but at this point your bike will be really lite, and you'll be broke LOL It looks like your crank has pinch bolts. Those are no good for learning to grind. But their are plenty of other fun things to work on. But before anything new I would take care of that crank. Just start saving all over again for future sales on great frames and forks for the next couple years. Later Bro I'll be around just hit me up
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  04wildman Posted:

  5/3/2008 10:00 AM

  This is it as far as cheap techniques. But we're not done. Next, go back to the seat and seat post. Check out my seat and other light weight seats. Together with an aluminum seat post that you can also trim (same exact way) you can save more weight and you haven't bought anything big. Just the pipe cutter/blades, a little hair spray (which you need anyway) and maybe a new brake lever, seat post, and seat.