yo, I need a favor. Can you leave me a comment containing all the bmx online stores you know of? I have been trying to cash some checks for over a month to get that shadow attack front load stem in white but Dan's, Albes, Shadow, and one other are all out! L8
sounds good. I've never bought anything from E bay. Just don't rush into this thing. But for 85 bucks... shit. You will save money and if you are good to it, this crank will still be a solid back up for when you are ready to try a new one in the future. Make sure your bottom bracket on the frame is spanish cuz I think it has to be for the fly cranks and BB. good luck...
Yeah, I'm pretty sure only one of the crank arms comes of the spindle. The other crank arm is "one" with the spindle. I don't know about it though, I'm just guessing. But it seems weird. Three pieces usually can be rebuilt one arm, both arms, or just new a new replacement spindle as they are needed, so you don't have to buy a hole new crank. Be careful, it is a decent chunk of cash!
Don't try to get crank that can go both ways, just do it. Good answer, if I was younger and healthy I would been militant about progressing in both directions. Woulda,coulda,shoulda! This is a young mans sport. L8
Well I guess I will comment here again about LHD. If you do any grinding or ice pick stalls you should do them opposite drive side. But if you want to progress in both directions you will need to move your drive train to the other side at least until your dialed on your new side... don't get a LHD or RHD only crank! Get a Demolition/Shadow/or Stolen Crank that is RHD and LHD capable. That just leaves your rear wheel. You can buy a complete wheel for each side but that is expensive. Or you can check out Eastern's new bi directional rear cassette wheel. It can be turned around after you do "something" to the paws in the cassette driver. But... if you only care about grinding on one side for like the next year or life of your present rear wheel, just make sure a LHD set up doesn't leave you grinding on the Left Side where you sprocket/chain/and driver can get messed up.
50 percent of manuals has to be endurance. And the better you get the easier it is obviously, but once your tired... well it's time for a beer! Shit I need to hydrate I was cramping all day yesterday
if you look back on the manual discussion you will see that myself and xstaytruex are basically saying the same thing. Don't under estimate what stay true says about being subtle, thats why its important to relax or "not to try to hard" you gotta stay loose or you won't even feel these subtle movements you have to stay ahead of (counter with your body position) in order to manual.
hye mn i have a 23t s&m little nad i sujest using a freecoaster also..they are really nice and if yuors is khe dont worry about breakig it,..but you might need to replace the bearings for the driver
04wildman Posted:
6/26/2008 8:48 PM
never mind dude, I got one from the sales director at The Shadow Con. His name is Dave "sparky" and he is cool as shit. L8
04wildman Posted:
6/26/2008 7:54 PM
yo, I need a favor. Can you leave me a comment containing all the bmx online stores you know of? I have been trying to cash some checks for over a month to get that shadow attack front load stem in white but Dan's, Albes, Shadow, and one other are all out! L8
04wildman Posted:
5/5/2008 9:53 PM
sounds good. I've never bought anything from E bay. Just don't rush into this thing. But for 85 bucks... shit. You will save money and if you are good to it, this crank will still be a solid back up for when you are ready to try a new one in the future. Make sure your bottom bracket on the frame is spanish cuz I think it has to be for the fly cranks and BB. good luck...
04wildman Posted:
5/4/2008 10:18 PM
Yeah, I'm pretty sure only one of the crank arms comes of the spindle. The other crank arm is "one" with the spindle. I don't know about it though, I'm just guessing. But it seems weird. Three pieces usually can be rebuilt one arm, both arms, or just new a new replacement spindle as they are needed, so you don't have to buy a hole new crank. Be careful, it is a decent chunk of cash!
04wildman Posted:
5/3/2008 8:32 PM
Is it the fly "2.5"pc???
04wildman Posted:
5/3/2008 10:23 AM
Fly parts have short warrantee's. You can do better for cheaper!
04wildman Posted:
5/2/2008 6:27 PM
Don't try to get crank that can go both ways, just do it. Good answer, if I was younger and healthy I would been militant about progressing in both directions. Woulda,coulda,shoulda! This is a young mans sport. L8
04wildman Posted:
5/1/2008 11:31 AM
Well I guess I will comment here again about LHD. If you do any grinding or ice pick stalls you should do them opposite drive side. But if you want to progress in both directions you will need to move your drive train to the other side at least until your dialed on your new side... don't get a LHD or RHD only crank! Get a Demolition/Shadow/or Stolen Crank that is RHD and LHD capable. That just leaves your rear wheel. You can buy a complete wheel for each side but that is expensive. Or you can check out Eastern's new bi directional rear cassette wheel. It can be turned around after you do "something" to the paws in the cassette driver. But... if you only care about grinding on one side for like the next year or life of your present rear wheel, just make sure a LHD set up doesn't leave you grinding on the Left Side where you sprocket/chain/and driver can get messed up.
04wildman Posted:
5/1/2008 10:55 AM
DUDE! Read my comments about your RHD or LHD question. Its important, don't buy that crank! Get one that goes RHD or LHD
04wildman Posted:
5/1/2008 9:46 AM
50 percent of manuals has to be endurance. And the better you get the easier it is obviously, but once your tired... well it's time for a beer! Shit I need to hydrate I was cramping all day yesterday
04wildman Posted:
4/30/2008 12:18 PM
if you look back on the manual discussion you will see that myself and xstaytruex are basically saying the same thing. Don't under estimate what stay true says about being subtle, thats why its important to relax or "not to try to hard" you gotta stay loose or you won't even feel these subtle movements you have to stay ahead of (counter with your body position) in order to manual.
04wildman Posted:
4/30/2008 10:14 AM
You have motivated me to work on manuals for the rest of the week. It's gonna suck!!! I'm so out of shape!!! Fuck it...L8 M8
tayalor Posted:
4/25/2008 7:19 PM
your bike is pretty sick dude
Shadow1992 Posted:
4/20/2008 5:28 PM
hye mn i have a 23t s&m little nad i sujest using a freecoaster also..they are really nice and if yuors is khe dont worry about breakig it,..but you might need to replace the bearings for the driver