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raceing a freestyle bike

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tanner burlile

Vital BMX member tanner burlile
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Posts: 6

Joined: 7/16/2014

Location: Emmett, ID USA

7/22/2014 10:09 PM

ok so i have a blackeye killorado and i was wondering if i bought some race parts could i be as successful as the other racers or would i just plain out suck

the original poonslayer

nola_ridaz34

Vital BMX member nola_ridaz34
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Posts: 33

Joined: 5/7/2014

Location: New Orleans, LA USA

7/22/2014 10:27 PM

It's about the rider, not the bike. Sure a race bike would be better suited for a track, but I raced a freestyle bike completely stock with just a number plate for about a year. I say go for it until you can buy a proper race bike!

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biggybuggy

Vital BMX member biggybuggy
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Posts: 4459

Joined: 8/13/2013

Location: Fallon, NV USA

7/23/2014 8:27 AM

Buy some maxxis DTH tires in 2.2, and hit the track. Tires are what matter. Dth will get you going on the track, and at the park.

ghostx720

Vital BMX member ghostx720
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Posts: 159

Joined: 7/11/2014

Location: VIR

7/23/2014 9:11 AM

Dyes stricken gearing matter or is that for specific events?

FEDEXdoobie

Vital BMX member FEDEXdoobie
101978 FEDEXdoobie /images/default/avatar/c50.png http://www.vitalbmx.com/community/FEDEXdoobie,101978/all 01/06/13 8 194 1

Posts: 202

Joined: 1/6/2013

Location: Los Angeles, CA USA

7/23/2014 12:20 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

Buy some maxxis DTH tires in 2.2, and hit the track. Tires are what matter. Dth will get you going on the track, and at the park.

Why would you buy 2.2 tires for racing? youre an idiot, stop giving shit advice

tomdon

Vital BMX member tomdon
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Posts: 5730

Joined: 2/29/2012

Location: NY, USA

7/23/2014 12:22 PM
Edited Date/Time: 7/23/2014 12:23 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

Buy some maxxis DTH tires in 2.2, and hit the track. Tires are what matter. Dth will get you going on the track, and at the park.

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

Why would you buy 2.2 tires for racing? youre an idiot, stop giving shit advice

haha. bigolbutthole got the smackdown. And if you haven't learned yet, he's a moron and has no idea what he is talking about

I'm on the vital legit list!

bmxsteve99

Vital BMX member bmxsteve99
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Posts: 3901

Joined: 4/14/2013

Location: Goleta, CA USA

7/23/2014 12:56 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

Buy some maxxis DTH tires in 2.2, and hit the track. Tires are what matter. Dth will get you going on the track, and at the park.

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

Why would you buy 2.2 tires for racing? youre an idiot, stop giving shit advice

tomdon wrote:

haha. bigolbutthole got the smackdown. And if you haven't learned yet, he's a moron and has no idea what he is talking about

seconded

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FEDEXdoobie

Vital BMX member FEDEXdoobie
101978 FEDEXdoobie /images/default/avatar/c50.png http://www.vitalbmx.com/community/FEDEXdoobie,101978/all 01/06/13 8 194 1

Posts: 202

Joined: 1/6/2013

Location: Los Angeles, CA USA

7/23/2014 1:28 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

Buy some maxxis DTH tires in 2.2, and hit the track. Tires are what matter. Dth will get you going on the track, and at the park.

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

Why would you buy 2.2 tires for racing? youre an idiot, stop giving shit advice

tomdon wrote:

haha. bigolbutthole got the smackdown. And if you haven't learned yet, he's a moron and has no idea what he is talking about

I just dont understand why people make hard statements like that spreading misinformation, when its obvious theyre just speaking out of their ass and have no knowledge in the matter. Its one thing to make a suggestion or hypothesis when you don't know (and you should probably just shut up if you dont), but its another thing to make a straight up wrong statement

For example, some idiots on here were claiming that spline drive sprockets make for less tight/loose spots in a chain. Tight spots are created by the chainring not being fully round/concentric, and bolt drive/spline drive has no impact on this. yet people swear on their mothers grave that bolt drive chainrings are somehow inferior. FWIW I've had at least 6 bolt drive sprockets, none of which ever had a tight spot, whereas my new fit spline drive sprocket has a bunch of tight/loose spots. rant over

FEDEXdoobie

Vital BMX member FEDEXdoobie
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Posts: 202

Joined: 1/6/2013

Location: Los Angeles, CA USA

7/23/2014 1:39 PM

And to actually add to the topic:

"Run what you brung". Are you asking if you would be faster if you bought race parts? Cuz if youre asking that question you definitely don't need race parts yet, just work on skills/technique. Maybe invest in a pair of narrow tires, but I go to the track once a month and I use my street bike. Guys at the track always comment on my glhs and tell their kids to go behind me since I pave the track lol. But to answer your question, I'm sure the gnarly dudes at the track could still scrape me if I traded my 25 lb street machine for their 18 lb race bike

Xxohioanxx

Vital BMX member Xxohioanxx
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Joined: 8/27/2011

Location: Columbus, OH USA

7/23/2014 1:41 PM
Edited Date/Time: 7/23/2014 1:42 PM

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

I just dont understand why people make hard statements like that spreading misinformation, when its obvious theyre just speaking out of their ass and have no knowledge in the matter. Its one thing to make a suggestion or hypothesis when you don't know (and you should probably just shut up if you dont), but its another thing to make a straight up wrong statement

For example, some idiots on here were claiming that spline drive sprockets make for less tight/loose spots in a chain. Tight spots are created by the chainring not being fully round/concentric, and bolt drive/spline drive has no impact on this. yet people swear on their mothers grave that bolt drive chainrings are somehow inferior. FWIW I've had at least 6 bolt drive sprockets, none of which ever had a tight spot, whereas my new fit spline drive sprocket has a bunch of tight/loose spots. rant over

Bolt drive will almost always have some tight spot. It's caused by the bore of the sprocket/adapter being slightly bigger than the spindle, so when you put it on it's not centered. So when you pedal the sprocket kinda moves around, creating that tight spot.

I think Socket and spline drive are superior because of it being impossible to have a tight spot in the traditional sense (Caused by the bore/adapter being too big), and they're just much more efficient/elegant/whatever you want to call it.

All my bolt drive sprockets had tight spots, but my socket drive sprockets do not.

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notorious NIG

Vital BMX member notorious NIG
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Posts: 514

Joined: 2/26/2014

Location: Shithole, KS USA

7/23/2014 2:57 PM

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

I just dont understand why people make hard statements like that spreading misinformation, when its obvious theyre just speaking out of their ass and have no knowledge in the matter. Its one thing to make a suggestion or hypothesis when you don't know (and you should probably just shut up if you dont), but its another thing to make a straight up wrong statement

For example, some idiots on here were claiming that spline drive sprockets make for less tight/loose spots in a chain. Tight spots are created by the chainring not being fully round/concentric, and bolt drive/spline drive has no impact on this. yet people swear on their mothers grave that bolt drive chainrings are somehow inferior. FWIW I've had at least 6 bolt drive sprockets, none of which ever had a tight spot, whereas my new fit spline drive sprocket has a bunch of tight/loose spots. rant over

Everything you said about sprockets is 100% false, and there's a VERY explainable reason as to why bolt drive sprockets are inconsistent in alignment. The bolt that keeps the sprocket against the crank is tightened, so it pulls the sprocket towards the arm, keeping it in place, but also flexing the sprocket slightly towards the arm, therefore creating an area in the sprocket that is farther away from the hub driver (in a diagonal sense), causing the chain to tighten and loosen as you pedal. That, and the bore being a little bigger than the spindle (allowing the sprocket to actually tilt, creating both a tight and loose spot in your chain, further worsening your problem. None of those are a problem with spline-drive, as it has no bolt and is flush with each spline leaving no room for movement. If your SD sprocket has tight and loose spots, it's bent. That's the only way that it can flex from side to side, as there's no bolt to bend it and no room for tilt because it is contoured to every spline (making it a bitch to install) but eliminating all inconsistencies unless it is bent. 'idiot'

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FEDEXdoobie

Vital BMX member FEDEXdoobie
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Location: Los Angeles, CA USA

7/23/2014 4:55 PM

ha you guys are fuckin stupid. not even worth arguing with you guys

sundaybmxRR

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7/23/2014 5:06 PM

The way I see it, bolt & spline drive can both have tight/loose spots.

The only thing spline drive removes 100% is the "bent" look some sprockets can get if you don't put them on right. Bolt drive sprockets you need to tighten the cranks first, then the sprocket bolt. Spline drive, you just tighten the cranks. But with bolt drive, if you tighten the sprocket bolt prematurely, it can give the sprocket a bent look when you spin your cranks, spline drive will not have this problem because they don't have a bolt putting pressure on just 1 spot of the sprocket. All the load goes evenly around. But if you put the bolt drive sprocket on properly, it will be straight. Mine is straight as the eye can tell, I'm sure it's the tiniest bit bent looking but not anything that can be seen easily.

The tight and loose spot though can come from a couple different factors such as the sprocket warping, uneven chain stretch, and other things I'm sure. Just how I see it though.


Xxohioanxx

Vital BMX member Xxohioanxx
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Posts: 5324

Joined: 8/27/2011

Location: Columbus, OH USA

7/23/2014 5:08 PM
Edited Date/Time: 7/23/2014 5:09 PM

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

ha you guys are fuckin stupid. not even worth arguing with you guys

How to know you're right in one easy post. At least back up your shit rather than insulting us.

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notorious NIG

Vital BMX member notorious NIG
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Posts: 514

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7/23/2014 6:15 PM

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

ha you guys are fuckin stupid. not even worth arguing with you guys

Wow that's a really good point thanks for the valuable input

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Stocksy

Vital BMX member Stocksy
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7/23/2014 6:23 PM

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

Why would you buy 2.2 tires for racing? youre an idiot, stop giving shit advice

OP, I'd listen to this guy. He seems to know everything. He seemed especially intelligent when he called all of us all "fuckin stupid"

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sundaybmxRR

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7/23/2014 6:27 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

Buy some maxxis DTH tires in 2.2, and hit the track. Tires are what matter. Dth will get you going on the track, and at the park.

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

Why would you buy 2.2 tires for racing? youre an idiot, stop giving shit advice

Stocksy wrote:

OP, I'd listen to this guy. He seems to know everything. He seemed especially intelligent when he called all of us all "fuckin stupid"

Well to be fair, FEDEXdoobie is right. Skinnier tires are better for racing, they roll faster & weigh less for starters.

eskimojay

Vital BMX member eskimojay
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7/23/2014 6:31 PM

I don't think the small gearing of freestyle bikes would do to well on the race track , the bigger toothed sprockets means more teeth and the more youl get for one crank revolution 44 teeth go allot farther then a 25 tooth would

FEDEXdoobie

Vital BMX member FEDEXdoobie
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7/23/2014 8:20 PM

sundaybmxRR wrote:

The way I see it, bolt & spline drive can both have tight/loose spots.

The only thing spline drive removes 100% is the "bent" look some sprockets can get if you don't put them on right. Bolt drive sprockets you need to tighten the cranks first, then the sprocket bolt. Spline drive, you just tighten the cranks. But with bolt drive, if you tighten the sprocket bolt prematurely, it can give the sprocket a bent look when you spin your cranks, spline drive will not have this problem because they don't have a bolt putting pressure on just 1 spot of the sprocket. All the load goes evenly around. But if you put the bolt drive sprocket on properly, it will be straight. Mine is straight as the eye can tell, I'm sure it's the tiniest bit bent looking but not anything that can be seen easily.

The tight and loose spot though can come from a couple different factors such as the sprocket warping, uneven chain stretch, and other things I'm sure. Just how I see it though.


THANK YOU! finally someone whos not a complete dip shit, and is actually mechanically inclined (you are literally one of like 3 people on this forum I actually respect/learn new things from)

Both bolt/spline can have tight spots because it doesn't matter how the sprocket is mated to the spindle if your sprocket is not perfectly round. Believe it or not machining a perfectly round chainring is not that easy, so often times sprockets turn out slightly oval. I've always bought high quality sprockets (profile, odyssey) so they were always very round and I wasn't an idiot who puts on their sprocket crooked so I've never had tight spots. (btw if you guys are stupid enough to tighten your sprocket on crooked you must be pretty fucking stupid)

As soon as I put on my BRAND NEW spline drive fit guard sprocket I was wondering why my chain was loose, then I just realized the chainring isnt that round and it has tight/loose spots. I still love it, but so much for your guys spline drive argument


Xxohioanxx

Vital BMX member Xxohioanxx
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7/23/2014 8:48 PM
Edited Date/Time: 7/23/2014 8:48 PM

FEDEXdoobie wrote:

THANK YOU! finally someone whos not a complete dip shit, and is actually mechanically inclined (you are literally one of like 3 people on this forum I actually respect/learn new things from)

Both bolt/spline can have tight spots because it doesn't matter how the sprocket is mated to the spindle if your sprocket is not perfectly round. Believe it or not machining a perfectly round chainring is not that easy, so often times sprockets turn out slightly oval. I've always bought high quality sprockets (profile, odyssey) so they were always very round and I wasn't an idiot who puts on their sprocket crooked so I've never had tight spots. (btw if you guys are stupid enough to tighten your sprocket on crooked you must be pretty fucking stupid)

As soon as I put on my BRAND NEW spline drive fit guard sprocket I was wondering why my chain was loose, then I just realized the chainring isnt that round and it has tight/loose spots. I still love it, but so much for your guys spline drive argument


Clearly you're more concerned with calling me a "dip shit" rather than creating a genuine argument.

You're not going to have a sprocket that isn't round, at least, not even close to enough to create a tight spot. What's going to happen is your teeth will not be centered around your sprocket bore. Even then it is pretty rare to have a sprocket so far off that it will create a tight spot. Of course it can still happen, which might explain your Fit sprocket.

I want you to do something. Find a few sets of bolt drive cranks and bolt drive sprockets. Fit the sprockets on the cranks using the proper adapter if necessary. On almost all the cranks, the sprocket bore will be considerably larger than the spindle. THIS is what causes tight spots in almost every case. You're simply not going to be able to get it centered. Also like what Sunday said, it's possible for the sprocket to be put on crooked due to shitty crank manufacturing.

But of course, it is possible for bolt drive drivetrains to be manufactured with tight tolerancing and it will work flawlessly, and it is possible for spline and socket drive to be manufactured lazily. But spline and socket drive will work much better in almost all cases.

You can, however, help get rid of tight spots by using a headless sprocket bolt. Wanna know why this is helpful? Well, for one, it eliminates the possibility of your sprocket being installed crooked. But it also allows the sprocket to move around on the spindle.

Even with tight tolerancing and a headless bolt, bolt drive is still not efficient at all. You have one bolt driving an entire drivetrain, and with it you have the flex of the sprocket bolt and sprocket itself, further decreasing overall efficiency.

But of course, all of this is just bullshit considering I'm a dipshit and I'm pretty fucking stupid and I'm not mechanically inclined. Yet again this forum has proven basic engineering principles wrong.

YOU AVIN A LAUGH M8?
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bmxsteve99

Vital BMX member bmxsteve99
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Location: Goleta, CA USA

7/23/2014 8:53 PM
Edited Date/Time: 7/23/2014 8:57 PM

sundaybmxRR wrote:

The way I see it, bolt & spline drive can both have tight/loose spots.

The only thing spline drive removes 100% is the "bent" look some sprockets can get if you don't put them on right. Bolt drive sprockets you need to tighten the cranks first, then the sprocket bolt. Spline drive, you just tighten the cranks. But with bolt drive, if you tighten the sprocket bolt prematurely, it can give the sprocket a bent look when you spin your cranks, spline drive will not have this problem because they don't have a bolt putting pressure on just 1 spot of the sprocket. All the load goes evenly around. But if you put the bolt drive sprocket on properly, it will be straight. Mine is straight as the eye can tell, I'm sure it's the tiniest bit bent looking but not anything that can be seen easily.

The tight and loose spot though can come from a couple different factors such as the sprocket warping, uneven chain stretch, and other things I'm sure. Just how I see it though.


FEDEXdoobie wrote:

THANK YOU! finally someone whos not a complete dip shit, and is actually mechanically inclined (you are literally one of like 3 people on this forum I actually respect/learn new things from)

Both bolt/spline can have tight spots because it doesn't matter how the sprocket is mated to the spindle if your sprocket is not perfectly round. Believe it or not machining a perfectly round chainring is not that easy, so often times sprockets turn out slightly oval. I've always bought high quality sprockets (profile, odyssey) so they were always very round and I wasn't an idiot who puts on their sprocket crooked so I've never had tight spots. (btw if you guys are stupid enough to tighten your sprocket on crooked you must be pretty fucking stupid)

As soon as I put on my BRAND NEW spline drive fit guard sprocket I was wondering why my chain was loose, then I just realized the chainring isnt that round and it has tight/loose spots. I still love it, but so much for your guys spline drive argument


FUCK OFF WE DONT WANT YOU HERE
if you can't understand that then YOU are the dipshit

refs: hookjrclc, hardbmxtim, hatchmoses for sale and trade, kymike for sale and trade, blizzbikes for trade, and some other dude i cant remember his username, vrsapat956, colonydirt94, mario.villegas90, wolfen
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Wayne S

Vital BMX member Wayne S
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Location: Warwick, RI USA

7/23/2014 9:02 PM

eskimojay wrote:

I don't think the small gearing of freestyle bikes would do to well on the race track , the bigger toothed sprockets means more teeth and the more youl get for one crank revolution 44 teeth go allot farther then a 25 tooth would

They are about the same other then tire diameter.

44/16 = 2.75
25/9 = 2.77

To figure out the distance traveled, one must know the tire diameter.

Tire diameter x front tooth count / back tooth count.

Examples of my two bikes.
Race Bike: 19.375x44/14 = 60.89 inches traveled.
Street Bike: 20.625x25/9 = 57.29 inches traveled.

If I had 44/16 on my race bike it would travel 53.28 inches.

Anyhow, beginner racers have two critical things to learn at the track no matter what the bike is.
First and foremost is getting out of the gate. Second is pumping.

bmxsteve99

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7/23/2014 9:29 PM

i think he was being sarcastic?

refs: hookjrclc, hardbmxtim, hatchmoses for sale and trade, kymike for sale and trade, blizzbikes for trade, and some other dude i cant remember his username, vrsapat956, colonydirt94, mario.villegas90, wolfen
contact: steven.m.oliverio@gmail.com
Camera Setup: Panasonic HMC150, Panasonic GH2, Canon FTBn, Yashica Lynx 5000e, Canon 28mm f/2.8, Canon 50mm f1.4, Rokinon 7.5mm f/3.5

biggybuggy

Vital BMX member biggybuggy
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Posts: 4459

Joined: 8/13/2013

Location: Fallon, NV USA

7/23/2014 9:30 PM

I recommended the 2.2 tires so it would be a little bit more all around friendly. When I was racing, my 1.75 dth's were hell for all around use. At the track they were great. Bit I rode it at the park, and to school. I grabbed 2.2 dth tires, ran em at 85 psi and my performance at the track was better. Balancing the gate was easier, grip felt better off the gate and it was a bit nicer in the berms. Riding to school wasn't hell, and at the park they were great. I'm going off my personal experience. Sorry for recommending something with experience. And at the track, the human comes before the bike. Tires and gearing makes the most difference out of everything. I can't tell him to run every day and do low oxygen training to be competitive or be more fun. I wasn't having fun unless I was actually racing, not getting slaughtered by the pack. It's embarrassing, and the parents there literally bully you. That's why I quit. I could rant on forever and get nowhere. But I gave him the best advice I thought I could give. Buggybitch is a dipshit, and recommending parts off personal experience is a bad idea. *cue a response from fedex douchy, tomdon, or someone else where everyone band with them and I look like an idiot, better start posting on the tcu fb page now*

TL;DR, I gave him advice from personal experience, but it doesn't matter, tomdon is god.

bmxsteve99

Vital BMX member bmxsteve99
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Posts: 3901

Joined: 4/14/2013

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7/23/2014 9:32 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

I recommended the 2.2 tires so it would be a little bit more all around friendly. When I was racing, my 1.75 dth's were hell for all around use. At the track they were great. Bit I rode it at the park, and to school. I grabbed 2.2 dth tires, ran em at 85 psi and my performance at the track was better. Balancing the gate was easier, grip felt better off the gate and it was a bit nicer in the berms. Riding to school wasn't hell, and at the park they were great. I'm going off my personal experience. Sorry for recommending something with experience. And at the track, the human comes before the bike. Tires and gearing makes the most difference out of everything. I can't tell him to run every day and do low oxygen training to be competitive or be more fun. I wasn't having fun unless I was actually racing, not getting slaughtered by the pack. It's embarrassing, and the parents there literally bully you. That's why I quit. I could rant on forever and get nowhere. But I gave him the best advice I thought I could give. Buggybitch is a dipshit, and recommending parts off personal experience is a bad idea. *cue a response from fedex douchy, tomdon, or someone else where everyone band with them and I look like an idiot, better start posting on the tcu fb page now*

TL;DR, I gave him advice from personal experience, but it doesn't matter, tomdon is god.

refs: hookjrclc, hardbmxtim, hatchmoses for sale and trade, kymike for sale and trade, blizzbikes for trade, and some other dude i cant remember his username, vrsapat956, colonydirt94, mario.villegas90, wolfen
contact: steven.m.oliverio@gmail.com
Camera Setup: Panasonic HMC150, Panasonic GH2, Canon FTBn, Yashica Lynx 5000e, Canon 28mm f/2.8, Canon 50mm f1.4, Rokinon 7.5mm f/3.5

biggybuggy

Vital BMX member biggybuggy
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Posts: 4459

Joined: 8/13/2013

Location: Fallon, NV USA

7/23/2014 9:36 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

I recommended the 2.2 tires so it would be a little bit more all around friendly. When I was racing, my 1.75 dth's were hell for all around use. At the track they were great. Bit I rode it at the park, and to school. I grabbed 2.2 dth tires, ran em at 85 psi and my performance at the track was better. Balancing the gate was easier, grip felt better off the gate and it was a bit nicer in the berms. Riding to school wasn't hell, and at the park they were great. I'm going off my personal experience. Sorry for recommending something with experience. And at the track, the human comes before the bike. Tires and gearing makes the most difference out of everything. I can't tell him to run every day and do low oxygen training to be competitive or be more fun. I wasn't having fun unless I was actually racing, not getting slaughtered by the pack. It's embarrassing, and the parents there literally bully you. That's why I quit. I could rant on forever and get nowhere. But I gave him the best advice I thought I could give. Buggybitch is a dipshit, and recommending parts off personal experience is a bad idea. *cue a response from fedex douchy, tomdon, or someone else where everyone band with them and I look like an idiot, better start posting on the tcu fb page now*

TL;DR, I gave him advice from personal experience, but it doesn't matter, tomdon is god.

bmxsteve99 wrote:

Stick in in, we'll need the extra lube. You can lick it off my butthole afterwards, don't mind the hemorrhoids.

Xxohioanxx

Vital BMX member Xxohioanxx
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7/23/2014 9:37 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

Stick in in, we'll need the extra lube. You can lick it off my butthole afterwards, don't mind the hemorrhoids.

Don't leave me out of gay buttsex you fuckers.

YOU AVIN A LAUGH M8?
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biggybuggy

Vital BMX member biggybuggy
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Posts: 4459

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7/23/2014 9:39 PM

bmxsteve99 wrote:

biggybuggy wrote:

Stick in in, we'll need the extra lube. You can lick it off my butthole afterwards, don't mind the hemorrhoids.

Xxohioanxx wrote:

Don't leave me out of gay buttsex you fuckers.

We'll make it a train. Anyone else down?

tomdon

Vital BMX member tomdon
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Location: NY, USA

7/23/2014 9:41 PM

biggybuggy wrote:

I recommended the 2.2 tires so it would be a little bit more all around friendly. When I was racing, my 1.75 dth's were hell for all around use. At the track they were great. Bit I rode it at the park, and to school. I grabbed 2.2 dth tires, ran em at 85 psi and my performance at the track was better. Balancing the gate was easier, grip felt better off the gate and it was a bit nicer in the berms. Riding to school wasn't hell, and at the park they were great. I'm going off my personal experience. Sorry for recommending something with experience. And at the track, the human comes before the bike. Tires and gearing makes the most difference out of everything. I can't tell him to run every day and do low oxygen training to be competitive or be more fun. I wasn't having fun unless I was actually racing, not getting slaughtered by the pack. It's embarrassing, and the parents there literally bully you. That's why I quit. I could rant on forever and get nowhere. But I gave him the best advice I thought I could give. Buggybitch is a dipshit, and recommending parts off personal experience is a bad idea. *cue a response from fedex douchy, tomdon, or someone else where everyone band with them and I look like an idiot, better start posting on the tcu fb page now*

TL;DR, I gave him advice from personal experience, but it doesn't matter, tomdon is god.

And don't you forget it

I'm on the vital legit list!

Jdc82

Vital BMX member Jdc82
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Posts: 45

Joined: 7/18/2014

Location: Elgin, IL USA

7/23/2014 9:43 PM

eskimojay wrote:

I don't think the small gearing of freestyle bikes would do to well on the race track , the bigger toothed sprockets means more teeth and the more youl get for one crank revolution 44 teeth go allot farther then a 25 tooth would

Wayne S wrote:

They are about the same other then tire diameter.

44/16 = 2.75
25/9 = 2.77

To figure out the distance traveled, one must know the tire diameter.

Tire diameter x front tooth count / back tooth count.

Examples of my two bikes.
Race Bike: 19.375x44/14 = 60.89 inches traveled.
Street Bike: 20.625x25/9 = 57.29 inches traveled.

If I had 44/16 on my race bike it would travel 53.28 inches.

Anyhow, beginner racers have two critical things to learn at the track no matter what the bike is.
First and foremost is getting out of the gate. Second is pumping.

I agree with you. the roll out the gearing will be almost identical, depending on tire size and brand. One of the main reasons you dont see racers using micro gearing for racing is the fact that the parts wear out really fast. A 25/9 gear set up was never meant to spin fast for long periods.

I also agree with the last statement you made in regards to the OPs original question. I raced for ten years and taught new rider clinics at my home track. If your just starting out and the black eye is all you got then just take it around the track to get a feel for it. Buying race parts for your bike at this point is a complete waste of money. Once balance on the gate is achieved and pumping and rolling jumps effectively then I would consider trying to get another bike for racing altogether. Theres a reason race frames have different geometry than street/park frames. If you wanted a got crossover bike I would look more towards a frame thats for trail riding like the S&M ccr or standard 250L. BMX racing is a great sport hope you get into it.

refs: skubasteve, asilva23, Joe_Medina, joey.alleruzzo