BMX Rear Hub Buyer’s Guide
Pedals are the platforms that allow a rider to stand up with his or her feet firmly planted on their bike. Pedals come in all shapes and sizes. Once a rider has found a pedal that works for them, they will likely use the same style of platform for a long time. Pedals are extremely simple components, and all follow the same recipe: there is the body that supports your foot, within the body are the bearings upon which it spins, and the bearings are attached to a spindle which is threaded into the crank. Pedals are an easy and affordable way to add a personal touch and some colorful flair to a BMX. A fresh set of pedals can also give new life to an old ride.
Types
There are several variations of rear hubs, each with it’s own advantages and traits that will effect the overall function of a bike. The categories can be broken down into cassette, freewheel, and freecoaster hubs. For more information on drivers and freewheels, see the Driver and Freewheel Buyer’s Guide Article.
Cassette Hubs – Cassette hubs use an internal, independent driver that presses into the hub shell. Because of the self-contained function of a cassette driver, smaller gear ratios can be achieved through the use of smaller sealed bearings. It is possible to run a driver as small as 8 teeth with a cassette hub.
Freewheel Hubs – Freewheel hubs use an external “freewheel,” that threads on to the outside of the hub shell. Because freewheels have to attach to the hub shell externally, the circumference of the bearings and freewheel must be larger. Because of this, the smallest gear size available with a freewheel is 13 teeth. If you want to run a smaller sprocket, a cassette or freecoaster hub is required.
Freecoaster Hubs – Freecoaster hubs allow a bike to roll backwards (fakie) without the need to back pedal at the same time. This is achieved by a special internal driver/clutch engagement system that allows the wheel to spin freely until the rider pedals forward a certain amount, pushing the driver into the hub’s clutch system.
Freecoaster hubs use a special driver system that engages by pressing back into a clutch. Due to the fact that the driver has to push into the clutch, there is a trait called “slack.” Slack occurs when the driver spins around, threading into the internal clutch. This fraction of a second causes a gap in engagement that will make the bike feel “chainless” until the driver locks into the clutch. Getting used to slack can take some time, and may not be for all riders.
If you prefer a bike that will be ultra quick to engage and respond when you pedal, you will be better off running a cassette or freewheel hub.
Construction
Materials – The majority of hubs are made with light alloys such as 6000 and 7000 series aluminum. This material allows for a strong, yet light body that will withstand the forces exerted on it when being ridden.
Flanges – A hub flange is the thin, wing-like section of the hub shell that holds the spokes. Flanges come in assorted styles and sizes, ranging from tall flanges, to super short or “flangeless hubs.” Shorter flanges can be better for bikes that see a lot of grinding, due to the reduced risk of bending.
Bearings – There are two bearing options for rear hubs - sealed, and unsealed. Higher-end after market hubs use sealed bearing systems due to their durability and reduced maintenance. Unsealed hubs are generally used in cheaper complete bikes and lower priced aftermarket components. Unsealed bearings will require more maintenance and are more prone to bending and breaking.
Some hubs offer multiple sets of bearings in one shell. This is done to increase the strength of the hub by distributing the weight across a larger area of the axle. If you put a lot of abuse on your wheels when jumping or dropping, hubs with multiple bearings could be an ideal choice to increase the lifespan of your wheels.
3/8” (10mm) Axles vs. 14mm Axles – The two common sizes of axles found in BMX hubs are 3/8” (10mm) and 14mm. These measurements describe the thickness of the axle. 3/8” axles are the thinner of the two, and are commonly found in front hubs and racing rear hubs. Due to the increased weight that a rear hub encounters, it is recommended to run rear hub with a 14mm axle to prevent bending and breaking.
Spoke Holes – The number of spoke holes in a hub does not affect the structural integrity of the hub, but it is a factor in the construction and strength of a complete wheel. Refer to the Wheel Buyer’s Guide Article for more info.
How Much To Spend
It’s always important to remember the saying, “you get what you pay for” when purchasing new bike parts. When you spend more, you are paying for higher quality materials and better construction. This rule applies to the quality of hubs. When you purchase a more expensive hub, you are generally buying a component with a better engagement system that uses higher quality materials.
When buying a hub, you should be looking to spend between $90 and $300. The more affordable $90-$120 range will generally weigh more then the higher priced hubs, but will offer a quality engagement system for the price. The $120-$180 range contains mostly cassette hubs and high-end freewheel designs. This range will offer lighter hub internals, better engagement systems and often more color choices. The $180-$300 range contains the highest end components that are made from high quality materials, and use the most advanced and responsive engagement systems. Because of the complicated design used in freecoaster hubs, they are found in the upper price range.
What To Look For
When choosing a rear hub, the style of your riding should be considered first. If you ride in a way that requires a lot of speed, a freewheel or cassette hub should be considered due to the rapid engagement these hubs offer. Cassette hubs will also provide the most options for gear size, so if micro drivetrains are your thing, the cassette hub is for you.
As mentioned earlier in this article, the bearing count of a hub impacts the overall strength and durability of the component. If you put a lot of stress on your bike through jumping or grinding, choosing a hub with more bearings can increase the lifespan of your wheels.
People who ride fakie often (backwards) may want to look into the freecoaster category of hubs, as it will allow more freedom when riding backwards.
You want a hub that will be able to take the stresses of your riding and keep rolling. While a race hub with 3/8” axles may sound cool, it is not going to last when you drop down a twelve stair or grind a handrail. You want to pick a hub that will compliment your everyday riding, whether that means ultra-fast engagement, or systems with 6 bearings and a solid 14mm axle. Bottom line, this is a part that you want to last.
Product Reviews
Before buying, be sure to do your research and read product reviews. Reviews are a great way to find out specifics about a particular model, user impressions, and things to watch out for. After you’ve purchased a product and had enough time to thoroughly test it, we encourage you to leave a review for other people to see when they are researching bikes and parts on the web.
We hope you’ve found this information to be helpful. If you have a question that isn’t answered in this guide, our BMX forums are a great place to get advice from knowledgeable riders. Your local bike shop is also a great resource.
