Will do, thank you all for the maintenance!

What I will suggest if my previous post didnt satisfy, is to make the outer diameter of the ribbed portion smaller. Dont grind down just the end, grind down the whole ribbed area evenly.

Thank you! I figured since the 22" is more of a specialized oddball setup, why not try some things that are a bit out of my comfort zone. Cant wait till my broken ass ribs heal up so I can ride again...

My instincts tell me I should lean all the way forward and slam only the fronts.

Shadow is still a component company, the frames are under the Subrosa moniker. It's like the Odyssey/Sunday/G-sport deal, all under the same umbrella. Subrosa/Shadow/Rant Sunday/G-sport/Odyssey Kink/Cinema/Fiend/Merrit/Mission Etc.

Lol And to the OP, bikes have improved.

Just pull your grips out a bit and cover up the gap.

Thats what I do when I first build up a wheel is make sure there are roughly the same amount of threads showing for each spoke. I do a 1/4 turn at each nipple starting with the spoke next to the valve hole.

So you are wanting the core to be a smaller diameter on the end but the sleeve itself to be the same dimensions as a normal sleeve?

Nothing wrong with being gay. -Real and cool

What I do: 1. Ride something else for a bit, give them a chance o move on their own. Check if they are still there. 2. Make sure there are no similar obstacles I can ride to provide the same experience. If not, check if they are still there. 3. Ask politely

Naturally, since the peg and ledge is trying to push you off, you and your bike are compensating and leaning into the grind to "lock in". Feebles are pretty hard on pegs, especially if you land too deep into a grind. If you land with your front tire ... more »

It wouldnt work. If anything the peg core could be smaller towards the drop out. If the core was smaller at the grinding end, the sleeve wouldnt even be able to slide over the core.

Lol

Oh...lol He speaks well for his age.