I did say sand.

I completely read that wrong, just ride. It's fun. You'll get better at it the more you do it but as Dave mentioned you won't do much with structure. I structure my chores, get that shit done right quick. More time for me time.

It's to easy to pit the alloy I wouldn't do it either way. You'd get a much cleaner/safer job using paint stripper if it's power coated, and de-anodize if anodized, you'd be crazy to blast an ano rim right.

If you're going to use brakes on the rims I'd recommend re-anodizing them as it's the strongest for wear instead of PCing, but if not then PCing would do just fine.

You mentioned the rims can be blasted and I responded if you meant sand blasting, which is a process which removes debris/paint from certain materials.

Everyone has their own style either it looks good or bad it's really up to the individual and person watching. But it will come naturally or you can force it and make a certain style your own if you want it bad enough.

But muh Gold Eastern for 800 with all TI internals.

And if they are powder coated just use paint stipper to remove the paint and choose how you'd like to coat them, anno, powder coat etc etc.

You can actually un/de-anodize them and then re-anodize them any colour you'd like, but its finding a place to do it.

If you're talking about sand blasting, then Yes, it will be raw/bare alloy. I wouldn't ever sand blast a rim you'd chew through it.

3-5mm, don't like to go any wider. Sprocket is also only 3mm away from curve of chainstay. This is the issue with stupidly wide rear ends, it's so retarded. Chain alignment goes to shit.

Or you could just run ODI XL's and cut them so they cover the bends tada flangeless.

Been doing that for a while now, that way I can go with any length/colour/style I like, good job BTW. It will hold no problems as long as it's not out of alloy and you got the right size hole grub screws to match the cable size etc.

That's a heinous crime.

Damn straight.