I'd also put a chamfer on the end; if you've ever worked with threaded rod or rebar, you know how bad it is to catch on a cut end.

Surely the Daily Guard one would hit the spokes on the outside of the flange?

The bottom one looks like they ran out of Argon or dipped the tungsten like 20 or 30 times. The undercut on the top one is nothing short of abysmal. I'd have sent it back...

Hold up... They managed to not only miss a part of the weld; but the most obvious part of the weld? I might understand if it was on the inside of a chainstay or seatstay, where QC might miss it but that's just a 5 o'clock on a Friday kinda job...

A friend has had the original Bitchin' cranks for 4 or 5 years now and they really hold up. I'm curious though; why wouldn't you get Odyssey cranks?

Freewheels are not very common these days, apart from the likes of department store bikes. These days, hubs usually have 9 tooth drivers that are integral to the hub, like this:

Exactly. That's the way of the world; if you don't put in the time and effort to learn something, you're going to have to pay somebody whatever they ask to get it done.

Get a mate to do it and it'll only cost you a box of beer

Hardened steel just cracks. I'd much rather have a part bend than break suddenly.

1/4" 6xxx aluminium vs .045 chromoly. A good stem could do that to any handlebar. Odyssey Elementarys were 6061 aluminium and they had no issue doing that to even the best set of bars on a regular basis when the user overtightened them.

It's the frame.

Get rid of 'em. When they get like that, the outer edges of the clamp area are prime for breaking.

Careful with the bolt tension; that's one expensive ass hub to fuck up. I would recommend chain tensioners for sure.

R-25s. Mine is still going strong after like 4 or 5 years.

It's the most common kind of grease. NLGI is a measure of the thickness of the grease. Just don't use a grease that's too thick or thin: too thick and you add a lot of resistance in the bearings; too thin and it just gets pushed out to the side and ends ... more »

For bearings, an NLGI #2 bearing grease. For bolts, copper anti-seize.

I would say the opposite. I find that the more responsive a bike is, the more comfortable I am on dirt or in bowls. It's like the difference between 40PSI in your tyres and 100PSI. Stability is waaay overrated, in my opinion; I find it just feels sluggish ... more »

r/woosh... ^I take it ye haven't yet had the pleasure of meeting our resident badass Krooked?

I thought the original, before the re-release, was male?