Beginner BMX and looking for a bike? Read this! *STICKY THIS*

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4/12/2018 9:19 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/12/2018 9:27 AM

Okay, since this thread gets created probably just about every week at least once, I have decided to save everyone headaches and make a thread on how to get started bmxing, it will include references and links to parts and bikes.
-----DELETE EVERYTHING ABOVE LINE WHEN STICKIED-----
Okay, so you've decided to get into BMX, you've been doing some research and have found a bike you think looks good online, and only costs $100. Well, I'm here to tell you why that's a bad decision. First off, that bike is probably not chromoly, it's probably High Tensile Steel, which sounds tough, but unless it's a midschool bike, it's not. That brake lever is probably pure mush, and the pegs are probably walmart screw-ons, not a good bike.

Introduction
Before you buy a bike, understand that the sport of BMX is not an easy one, you will have good times and bad times, and you can get hurt, just like any other sport. If you are the type of person to quit something after getting hurt, then the sport of BMX is not for you my friend. A scrape or hurt elbow will not justify that $1000 bike you just bought. That $1000 bike is hungry to ride, so if you neglect it, then you just put potentially someone else out of the game because you just bought a bike to look cool, not because you like freestyle.

Wanna rock a new bike?
Depending on your budget, you have a solid choice of two bikes, If you have a budget of $300, then you need to get the Mongoose Legion L100. It is a quality bike at a low cost that has been reviewed TWICE by a resident VitalBMX member Bulletpup.
The strong points of this bike are:
- Full Chromoly everything
- 21" Top Tube
- Female Front Hub
- Sealed Rear Hub
- BB and Headset are sealed

However, there are a few bad things about this bike:
- Non Standard Headset
- Pedals are sub-par
- Stem is sub-par
- Tires are just about impossible to get off the rim, fault of the rim

Overall, with about $330 you can get this bike, a pair of MPEGs, Twisted PC Pedals, and a Freeze Topload Stem. If you ask me, this is a very solid deal to get into bmx at a pretty low price, and this is going to be the cheapest option for a brand new full chromoly bike.

If you're in the $400-500 range, the best option for you to go with is the Eastern Shovelhead 2018. This bike often goes on sale for $410 which is a STEAL for the specs that this bike has, resident VitalBMX member Mishinn_Control has this bike and can vouch for its quality. There are no bad points about this bike, this bike is solid and has been perfected by Eastern for over a decade. It's full chromoly, 22mm 48 spline cranks, fully sealed, female front axle, the real deal. It comes with two pegs too, which isn't really a big deal but it's a nice addition.

Found a used bike?
Okay, so you're on craigslist. You've been looking around, and OMG, a haro is for sale for only $200 in your area! Before you seal the deal, look at the details on the bike, are the cranks 3 piece? What about the forks/stem? That stem doesn't have pinch bolts (Redneck FLT is an exception, this awesome flatland stem is so short it doesn't need pinch bolts), what about the stickers? Are there even any stickers? If someone on craigslist doesn't state the model of the bike right off the bat, then that's already a red flag. If they do tell you the model, go on Bmx Museum and check out the specs on that model, or compare it and see if it looks the same. If it seems even a little bit different in the structure of the bike, then steer clear of it because it's a scam. If it's legit, then you do need to ponder this; BMX bikes are ridden, and ridden hard, if there is a reason that someone is getting rid of a "barely used" chromoly bike, it's often not a good one. Now understand that there are deals to be had, and often times it's some kid who thought he was BMX but turned out to be scooter, and just decided to get a scooter and sell the BMX, but it's a risky market. There is an exception to this, and that is with NOS parts and bikes. These parts/bikes are often in great condition and are worth the expensive price that the seller is asking, but these bikes aren't in the same waters you're looking to fish, these bikes often have 30+ year old welds, and are often not capable of doing the crazy stuff that modern bmx bikes can do, not to mention they weigh much more with less strength. Despite what your uncle Eddie Fiola tells you, that 85 Performer isn't going to get you going like a new bike will.

Building a bike?
I'm not going to get into detail about building a bike, but understand that it's a very complicated process, and costs often over TWICE as much as a regular complete does. Customs can get into the price range of sometimes $2000 and even over, depending on the parts you buy. An average custom bike will run you about $1000 on average, and that's often a barebones bike. Heck, it costs often over $100 to install a simple brake, lever, and gyro nowadays. If you're new to the sport, get a complete first, building a bike isn't a good idea until you learn to grasp the concept of geometry and how it affects the feel of a bike, and if you are trying to learn this before you even get on a whip and learn some tricks, then you are seriously wasting your time. You will more than likely not end up with a bike that has funky geometry that will not perform to your needs.

References
Here is an excellent guide for what to look for when you are buying/building a bmx
Dissecting the modern BMX by Rider in Black

BMX Museum is a reference guide for bmx models and history
link

Here's some stores to look on for parts
Danscomp
Flatland Fuel
Planet BMX
Empire BMX

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 9:24 AM

So many of these buyers guides have been made already. They never get sticked it's a shame really.

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Hmmm

4/12/2018 9:30 AM

Edman123 wrote:

So many of these buyers guides have been made already. They never get sticked it's a shame really.

For real, we have one moderator who sticks around, can't he sticky it? I'm sick of seeing all of these threads made by dillweeds like freddiefox500 and ad infinitums like flamey. If someone stickies this then it basically solves this problem.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 9:38 AM

Edman123 wrote:

So many of these buyers guides have been made already. They never get sticked it's a shame really.

I PM'ed brokenbmx about it, hopefully he'll sticky it.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 10:12 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/12/2018 10:12 AM

HardBMX_Tim Made nearly every "buyers guide" on every pertinent subject in BMX not that long ago.... with the same pitch of "Sticky this!". We all back that but it doesn't seem to be likely.

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4/12/2018 10:29 AM

Mishinn_Control wrote:

HardBMX_Tim Made nearly every "buyers guide" on every pertinent subject in BMX not that long ago.... with the same pitch of "Sticky this!". We all back that but it doesn't seem to be likely.

That sucks man. I don't care which one gets stickied, I'm just sick of seeing these threads pop up every couple of days asking that question they could search up. It seems more likely that people will listen to a guide better than an actually live suggestion from somebody so it seems the best way to get people to actually make the correct decision is to make a guide about it. To be honest, I'd rather HardBMX_Tim get his stickied because he probably put a lot more work into it and for a more pure cause than mine (literally to get people to stop asking that specific question).

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 10:34 AM

Mishinn_Control wrote:

HardBMX_Tim Made nearly every "buyers guide" on every pertinent subject in BMX not that long ago.... with the same pitch of "Sticky this!". We all back that but it doesn't seem to be likely.

HavokDJ wrote:

That sucks man. I don't care which one gets stickied, I'm just sick of seeing these threads pop up every couple of days asking that question they could search up. It seems more likely that people will listen to a guide better than an actually live suggestion from somebody so it seems the best way to get people to actually make the correct decision is to make a guide about it. To be honest, I'd rather HardBMX_Tim get his stickied because he probably put a lot more work into it and for a more pure cause than mine (literally to get people to stop asking that specific question).

Preaching to the choir, my friend. Preaching to the choir. I think part of the problem is that if you try to search "what bike to buy" or some other general question that is asked here daily, you get a ton of stuff that is hard to discern. A lot of it, while partially relevant (Chromoly over Hi-tens, etc...), is old. Like over 6 years old. This sport changes so often that 6 years is a big deal. What was a good beginner bike then, may not even be available now.

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4/12/2018 11:02 AM

If this is a beginners guide, you'll need to explain this:

Well, I'm here to tell you why that's a bad decision. First off, that bike is probably not chromoly, it's probably High Tensile Steel, which sounds tough, but unless it's a midschool bike, it's not

There is nothing inherently wrong with high tensile steel. Cars are made out of it. Trains. Roll cages. It's strong. Plenty strong. But for the same strength, cromoly is lighter, which means you can use less of it to get the same strength. Hence cromoly bikes weigh (slightly) less than their hi-ten counterparts.

I think the odds of a Begginer actually breaking a high ten frame are millions to one. It would have to be a pretty catastrophic screw up , with severe injuries on their part.

People come here and say they want to get into BMX, and instead of welcoming them we put our noses in the air and , sniff, sniff, well you see the bike you are thinking about is only $150 on craigslist, this is simply inferior to what is required....

What I say is: It's brand name? less then 5 yrs old? GO FOR IT. Buy the $150 bike. Welcome to the club. Enjoy. You'll likely get *years* out of it.


My hi ten story:

I was at a BMX show in the late 80's in buffalo NY. GT. Aparajo was not there, it was their B team or whatever. We drove 4 hours, still stoked. Anyway one of the guys had a freewheel wrecked and so he needed a new wheel. But the store was raffling off a new GT performer (HIGH TENSILE STEEL ALERT!) Rather than give him a new wheel, they let him ride the performer, sign it, and then raffle it. The guy was easily getting 6' off the 8' QP, doing huge 360 tabletops over the 4' box and all kinds of stuff. He missed a few jumps, bailed a few times. Finally they went all out, they separate the box jump so it was more like an 8' gap instead of 4'. They just pulled the launch ramp back. He tried to 360 that, bailed and warped the front mag. ( no worries, took the wheel of his Pro and put it on the performer)

My points is until a few years ago full cro-mo was reserved for top of the line riders. You can do amazing things on a very much entry level high tensile bike of recent vintage from a respected brand. And unless you really feel the need to lose 1.5lbs, you won't notice any difference.

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New tech can't beat old school cool...or can it?
1987 O.O.S. Redline RL20II (Old Old Stock - this ain't no museum piece kids!)
2012 Norco Deviant
1996 GT Avalanche LE w/ Full 2002 XT upgrade and NE Total Air MZO fork

4/12/2018 12:14 PM

If I stickied every thread someone said “sticky this!” the entire front page would be filled with stickies.

New users usually can’t even figure out the search bar let alone looking at the stickies for yet another buyer guide

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4/12/2018 12:39 PM

Oldguyjon wrote:

If this is a beginners guide, you'll need to explain this:

Well, I'm here to tell you why that's a bad decision. First off, that bike is probably not chromoly, it's probably High Tensile Steel, which sounds tough, but unless it's a midschool bike, it's not

There is nothing inherently wrong with high tensile steel. Cars are made out of it. Trains. Roll cages. It's strong. Plenty strong. But for the same strength, cromoly is lighter, which means you can use less of it to get the same strength. Hence cromoly bikes weigh (slightly) less than their hi-ten counterparts.

I think the odds of a Begginer actually breaking a high ten frame are millions to one. It would have to be a pretty catastrophic screw up , with severe injuries on their part.

People come here and say they want to get into BMX, and instead of welcoming them we put our noses in the air and , sniff, sniff, well you see the bike you are thinking about is only $150 on craigslist, this is simply inferior to what is required....

What I say is: It's brand name? less then 5 yrs old? GO FOR IT. Buy the $150 bike. Welcome to the club. Enjoy. You'll likely get *years* out of it.


My hi ten story:

I was at a BMX show in the late 80's in buffalo NY. GT. Aparajo was not there, it was their B team or whatever. We drove 4 hours, still stoked. Anyway one of the guys had a freewheel wrecked and so he needed a new wheel. But the store was raffling off a new GT performer (HIGH TENSILE STEEL ALERT!) Rather than give him a new wheel, they let him ride the performer, sign it, and then raffle it. The guy was easily getting 6' off the 8' QP, doing huge 360 tabletops over the 4' box and all kinds of stuff. He missed a few jumps, bailed a few times. Finally they went all out, they separate the box jump so it was more like an 8' gap instead of 4'. They just pulled the launch ramp back. He tried to 360 that, bailed and warped the front mag. ( no worries, took the wheel of his Pro and put it on the performer)

My points is until a few years ago full cro-mo was reserved for top of the line riders. You can do amazing things on a very much entry level high tensile bike of recent vintage from a respected brand. And unless you really feel the need to lose 1.5lbs, you won't notice any difference.

Friend, I actually HAVE an 85 GT Performer frame and fork, and I can tell you for sure that the performer was indeed, full 4130 chromoly, there is no hi tensile steel present within that frame, and I can tell you with this for certain. Like I said before, the older bikes that are Hi-Ten are not bad because they did it differently back then. Nowadays, Hi-Ten bikes are sacrificing strength for weight, basically what that means is that they made the tubes thinner to try to match the weight of chromoly bikes. Companies sometimes skimp even further and don't even butt the tubes to try to get it even lighter. They didn't do this back then, back then a hi-tensile bike meant that it was very tough (still not as tough as chromoly) but it was heavy, we didn't care back then because we didn't give a damn about weight (midschool bikes were among the heaviest bikes). Chromoly was never reserved for top of the line, hi tensile was brought in for people who couldn't afford chromoly, too cheap or dumb to do research, and people who just want to look cool without spending a couple extra dollars.
Here's two bikes for comparison:
Legion L10

Legion L100

The legion l10 has an American Looseball (frustrating for beginners), One piece cranks (even more frustrating for beginners), single wall rims (useless for anything), Threaded 1" Headset (quill stem, haha have fun with THAT beginners), and now the fun part, cheap thin hi tensile steel, not to mention unsealed bearings everywhere (Frustrating for beginners)

The legion l100 has a Sealed Mid BB (up to specs), Sealed rear hub (up to specs), Female front hub (up to specs), full chromoly everywhere (up to specs), 3 piece cranks (up to specs), Sealed Headset (albeit a nonstandard size), Pivotal Seatpost (just got one myself and they're awesome), Double wall rims (up to specs). It costs $90 more than the legion l10

Breaking a modern chromoly frame from standard freestyling is so hard that it's ridiculous, you actually have to do some really stupid stuff to do that. Breaking a modern hi-ten frame is easy though, I can't tell you how often I see someone break frames and forks on hi-ten bikes, and think that this is okay. IT'S, NOT, OKAY. I hate that they do this social engineering crap with labels like "beginner, amateur, pro" instead of stuff like "basic, mid-range, top of the line". No one wants a "basic" bike, but a "beginner" bike is good for a beginner though, and sure, the bike might work for a while, but next thing you know the beginner tries a disaster and he's got a fork that's bent like a banana.

Chromoly does weigh less than high tensile steel, but companies use this to their advantage by using thicker tubing, not to mention that chromoly is actually proven stronger than high tensile steel when used in the same amount of materials.

I also didn't say that $150 is a bad price range for a used bike, what I'm saying is that as of lately, people have been buying crap bikes, removing the labels, repainting the bike, and adding decals from ANOTHER bike that's full chromoly, and selling the bike as another bike, which is scamming. If a price sounds too good to be true, it often is. Like I've said before, there are deals to be had, but more often than not you are getting something that is inferior to what you think you are getting. I got my dyno detour 2001 used for $200 and it's the best deal I've ever gotten off the internet, it's full chromoly and everything was pretty much new, this was in 2003 so the bike was still hot, that's proof that there are good deals to be had, but those good deals are drowned out by the number of scams that they have out there. Say there's a 2018 WTP arcade on CL for $150, seems like a good deal? It's name brand, from the last five years. Guy takes it to the park and jumps 6 feet and rims fold. That's $150 he could of put toward getting that Mongoose l100 up there, but instead he's sitting on a bike with tacos for wheels. Now what? He does one of two things, one's smart, one's not. He either saves up for that mongoose, or he saves up for a wheelset to replace his old one. He gets the mongoose and improves, on the flip side he saves up for that wheelset and next thing you know he tries to learn 180s on the half pipe and his head tube gets separated from his front triangle, now he's spending $300 on a new frame with a load of other crappy parts that will eventually break. Next thing you know, he's spent $1200 on a custom bike because of him replacing all of those broken parts, but doesn't know a single trick at all, while that kid over there on that mongoose legion l100 is backyarding around him, because he went right away and bought a decent ride that wouldn't mess up on him in anyway, instead of buying part after part and waiting for the parts to arrive and installing the parts and etc. Most of those kids who went down that path end up giving up and riding a scooter.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 12:41 PM

sundaybmxRR wrote:

If I stickied every thread someone said “sticky this!” the entire front page would be filled with stickies.

New users usually can’t even figure out the search bar let alone looking at the stickies for yet another buyer guide

I guess you're right about that. Why don't we have some sort of guide section or something for this? I guess then the lazy ones will come and ask because lazy.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 12:43 PM

Oldguyjon wrote:

If this is a beginners guide, you'll need to explain this:

Well, I'm here to tell you why that's a bad decision. First off, that bike is probably not chromoly, it's probably High Tensile Steel, which sounds tough, but unless it's a midschool bike, it's not

There is nothing inherently wrong with high tensile steel. Cars are made out of it. Trains. Roll cages. It's strong. Plenty strong. But for the same strength, cromoly is lighter, which means you can use less of it to get the same strength. Hence cromoly bikes weigh (slightly) less than their hi-ten counterparts.

I think the odds of a Begginer actually breaking a high ten frame are millions to one. It would have to be a pretty catastrophic screw up , with severe injuries on their part.

People come here and say they want to get into BMX, and instead of welcoming them we put our noses in the air and , sniff, sniff, well you see the bike you are thinking about is only $150 on craigslist, this is simply inferior to what is required....

What I say is: It's brand name? less then 5 yrs old? GO FOR IT. Buy the $150 bike. Welcome to the club. Enjoy. You'll likely get *years* out of it.


My hi ten story:

I was at a BMX show in the late 80's in buffalo NY. GT. Aparajo was not there, it was their B team or whatever. We drove 4 hours, still stoked. Anyway one of the guys had a freewheel wrecked and so he needed a new wheel. But the store was raffling off a new GT performer (HIGH TENSILE STEEL ALERT!) Rather than give him a new wheel, they let him ride the performer, sign it, and then raffle it. The guy was easily getting 6' off the 8' QP, doing huge 360 tabletops over the 4' box and all kinds of stuff. He missed a few jumps, bailed a few times. Finally they went all out, they separate the box jump so it was more like an 8' gap instead of 4'. They just pulled the launch ramp back. He tried to 360 that, bailed and warped the front mag. ( no worries, took the wheel of his Pro and put it on the performer)

My points is until a few years ago full cro-mo was reserved for top of the line riders. You can do amazing things on a very much entry level high tensile bike of recent vintage from a respected brand. And unless you really feel the need to lose 1.5lbs, you won't notice any difference.

By the way, you need to post that RL20II, I've got an RL20II frame lying around that I'm gonna fix up and post in the bike check section.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/12/2018 1:41 PM

Nice post!

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4/12/2018 2:19 PM

If it doesn't get sticked just bump it daily that way it stays on the first page of the forums

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Ride your bike.

Eat your vegetables.

Stay off Twitter.


- TheDarkEnergist

The Whip

4/12/2018 4:23 PM

HavokDJ wrote:

By the way, you need to post that RL20II, I've got an RL20II frame lying around that I'm gonna fix up and post in the bike check section.

Your other post was too long for Vital to comprehend so I'll post there. I think I did bikecheck my RL , and it was funny because names like Dyno and Kuwahara weren't even on the company name drop down list.It;s like Other, Other, Other, Other, Other, Odysey, Other, Other, KMC, Other.

Anyway my response so the original thread is:

I didn't start working in the shop until 87 so I Cant comment on your 85. In 87 the key difference between the Performer and the PRO performer was the PRO had the fullcromo made in USA frame, and the non-pro-performer was not cromo and all the ones we got up in Canada were made in taiwan. Neither had cromo bars or seatposts, btw and both had one piece cranks. In 1988 when they did the double bend downtube (and the hotpink option!) the old non-cromo non-PRO performer was the same as in 87. And they added the even cheaper vertigo with the same-non PRO non cromo frame. But anyway that isn't the point. We sold 10 performers for every Pro freestyle/performer, and we only ordered ONE PF Team and had to dutch auction it at the local festival because no-one had that kind of coin, not even the rich kids. We sold more Raleigh super tanks then we did GT's too. So our ratio of full cromo to hi ten was something like 50:1. At best. And yet we rode.

"Say there's a 2018 WTP arcade on CL for $150, seems like a good deal? It's name brand, from the last five years. Guy takes it to the park and jumps 6 feet and rims fold."

Beginners are jumping 6 feet? I am 6 feet tall. Not many people can jump over me. Certainly not any beginners. I doubt if I could -If I go really high I case the box, thud. And I just told you a story of someone using a non-cromo frame with plastic mag wheels getting 6' of air with no issues. That's not 'beginner' stuff. That's mad park stuff. I have an old bmx from 86 as well, see my sig, it has a Hp48 on the rear and a somewhat rusty GT triple lace on the front. Both are fine. Both have done TONS of shit. Shit that I still haves scars for.

I understand that cheaper frames come with cheaper parts. I just don't think WTP is skimping out on their hi ten frames. All their frames are reinforced in the important areas, like the headtube junction. Its not going to break there without killing the rider. And the seat stays come up and wrap around the seat tube. It is not going to break there either. That's like 90% of your frame breaks accounted for. We've pretty much solved the frame breaking problem for both hiten and cro mo bikes. If it weighs 1- 1.5 lbsmore than their high end frames it would be just as strong. If it weighed the same as their high end frames, then I would be nervous. But they don't. They are heavier. I just don't think they make THAT much of a difference for a new rider.

That $150 WTP Arcade would be just fine for beginner. Perfect, really: neutral geometry, tough enough parts, great price. Go for it. GO RIDE.

I like your bike selection advice, but it is too specific for a sticky. If they make an L101 next year that isn't as good as the L100 this year...it is out of date. There is to much model churn to recommend models. Recommend some brands, review the list annually and point out some things to look for - like avoid 1" threaded headset at all costs

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New tech can't beat old school cool...or can it?
1987 O.O.S. Redline RL20II (Old Old Stock - this ain't no museum piece kids!)
2012 Norco Deviant
1996 GT Avalanche LE w/ Full 2002 XT upgrade and NE Total Air MZO fork

4/12/2018 6:50 PM

I don’t understand the big fuss over people asking the same questions over and over. Welcome them by sharing a bit of knowledge or ignore them outright if you like. There is no obligation to respond to every thread created here at Vital. Frankly, the ‘new to BMX” threads can be more interesting than a lot of the juvenile, imbecilic crap that otherwise gets posted.

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4/12/2018 7:23 PM

the main problem with stickying this is it'll become too cluttered. it'll become several pages long, and aintnobodygottimeforthat.jpg

no one will wanna look through it, and if two people ask a question at the same time, one of them might get overlooked and never answered. the benefit of having individual threads made makes it easier for a "one on one" (or rather, one on everyone else) conversation

that and I'd rather have the individual threads for a more specific question. A general outline of "yeah, you want this, this and this" is helpful but if someone only has so much to work with, they're gonna want a more specific answer

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4/12/2018 7:30 PM

No one reads stickys tho

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I love my bike but i hate myself
bike check

IG @curtis_cantbmxwell
@powersbikeshop
@kirolling

4/13/2018 9:49 AM

In my opinion. If it doesnt have sealed bearings like EURO,MID,SPAN,....its not worth buying. They're are low end bmx bikes out there that do have sealed bearings in em. And you can get an older bmx bike pretty cheap. Just dont do the whole AMERICAN unsealed bearings because they dont last. Not unless you modify the cranks and get rid of the one piece...youll be ok for a few sessions i think. I have 2 Mirraco bmx bikes. And theyre both hood lower end bmx bikes. A bit heavy but good.

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4/13/2018 10:01 AM

TaCha_Eaglehorse wrote:

In my opinion. If it doesnt have sealed bearings like EURO,MID,SPAN,....its not worth buying. They're are low end bmx bikes out there that do have sealed bearings in em. And you can get an older bmx bike pretty cheap. Just dont do the whole AMERICAN unsealed bearings because they dont last. Not unless you modify the cranks and get rid of the one piece...youll be ok for a few sessions i think. I have 2 Mirraco bmx bikes. And theyre both hood lower end bmx bikes. A bit heavy but good.

I get that one-piece cranks are garbage but American BB's aren't really an issue. If I found a kickass mid-school bike that had an American BB, I'd snap it up without a thought about the BB. Back in the day, ALL BMX frames had American BB's & loose ball bearings. Hell, the bulk of the bikes didn't have sealed ANYTHING! IF you know how to maintain them, they aren't any less reliable (assuming that segment hasn't totally taken a shit since "back in the day"). I remember Redline Flyte cranks that had unsealed BB's. & they were the pinnacle of BMX cranks.

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4/13/2018 10:07 AM

TaCha_Eaglehorse wrote:

In my opinion. If it doesnt have sealed bearings like EURO,MID,SPAN,....its not worth buying. They're are low end bmx bikes out there that do have sealed bearings in em. And you can get an older bmx bike pretty cheap. Just dont do the whole AMERICAN unsealed bearings because they dont last. Not unless you modify the cranks and get rid of the one piece...youll be ok for a few sessions i think. I have 2 Mirraco bmx bikes. And theyre both hood lower end bmx bikes. A bit heavy but good.

Pretty much every mid school bike had an american BB, the bearings were usually sealed though. My dyno detour had an american bb and the bearings were sealed on that, and that bike was a high end complete too.

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4/13/2018 10:16 AM

HavokDJ wrote:

Pretty much every mid school bike had an american BB, the bearings were usually sealed though. My dyno detour had an american bb and the bearings were sealed on that, and that bike was a high end complete too.

Yeah, I'm talking about long before anyone knew what a "Dyno Detour" was. Hell, even when the Detour fist came out, generally bearings weren't sealed. If they were, the parts were a custom install. BTW, I'm not arguing with you.... just adding to your comment.

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4/13/2018 10:20 AM

TaCha_Eaglehorse wrote:

In my opinion. If it doesnt have sealed bearings like EURO,MID,SPAN,....its not worth buying. They're are low end bmx bikes out there that do have sealed bearings in em. And you can get an older bmx bike pretty cheap. Just dont do the whole AMERICAN unsealed bearings because they dont last. Not unless you modify the cranks and get rid of the one piece...youll be ok for a few sessions i think. I have 2 Mirraco bmx bikes. And theyre both hood lower end bmx bikes. A bit heavy but good.

HavokDJ wrote:

Pretty much every mid school bike had an american BB, the bearings were usually sealed though. My dyno detour had an american bb and the bearings were sealed on that, and that bike was a high end complete too.

Mishinn_Control wrote:

Yeah, I'm talking about long before anyone knew what a "Dyno Detour" was. Hell, even when the Detour fist came out, generally bearings weren't sealed. If they were, the parts were a custom install. BTW, I'm not arguing with you.... just adding to your comment.

We're there not caged bearings? Sort of like semi sealed? I seem to remember pulling apart this bike that must have been 30 years old and it had a caged headset.

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Hmmm

4/13/2018 10:51 AM

Edman123 wrote:

We're there not caged bearings? Sort of like semi sealed? I seem to remember pulling apart this bike that must have been 30 years old and it had a caged headset.

I think people use the term "loose ball bearings" interchangeably with caged bearings and loose ball bearings. I had both over the years. Many times hub bearings were either loose or caged. I remember headset bearing that were loose and caged as well. The old BB bearings were always caged. At least the ones I had that weren't sealed.

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