Bending front axles

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12/4/2017 8:11 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/4/2017 8:11 AM

I have gone through two front hubs and two sets of forks in the last 4 months. The axle starts to bend and then the dropout bends. What is a good front hub/complete wheel with a strong front axle (3/8ths) that will not bend when doing smiths and tooths/overtooths. Not crazy expensive either.

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12/4/2017 8:23 AM

14mm. That used to be what I ran back in the day (old fart), shocked me when I started riding again that everyone runs 3/8ths.

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

12/4/2017 8:31 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/4/2017 8:41 AM

Anything with those Conical Flanges and a FEMALE AXLE; Female Axles are over stronger option for the front- the protruding male axle is subject to bend and even push the flange into the bearings, thus the conical flange (Like the one on the Animal Javelin) which will push into the hub shell itself rather then into the bearing cup. Most aftermarket hubs have a conical flange and female axles(except cheap Stolen Co.), even the Colony Wasp/Pintour should do fine.


The hub itself will hold up fine but the Female bolts CAN snap off after some time of real hard riding, not as weak as male axles but still subject to snap- This is better than a male because you just have to replace the bolts instead of the entire hub-so if you grab a female hub see if you can grab some replacement bolts so you can be ready(especially if you do lots of tooths and smiths like me.)

↑Or get a 14mm Primo N4L with 14mm Primo forks, which is a for sure solution but a bit excessive(Hell, I'd do it if I didn't just get a fresh fork and wheel)

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12/4/2017 9:48 AM

Phunny93 wrote:

Anything with those Conical Flanges and a FEMALE AXLE; Female Axles are over stronger option for the front- the protruding ...more

You mean the conical collars on either side of the axle? When speaking about hubs, a flange is usually the part of the hubshell that the spokes go through.

OP: how hard are you landing into your grinds? Perhaps you should address the cause of the problem, not just the symptom.

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12/4/2017 10:03 AM

p1p1092 wrote:

You mean the conical collars on either side of the axle? When speaking about hubs, a flange is usually the part of the ...more

Yupp them coney nuts

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12/8/2017 11:09 AM

the hubs are the OEM hubs from my old shovelhead and I think that the problem is that there isn't enough contact area inside the fork. Very small lock nuts on the axle vs a large peg on the outside gives leverage to the peg and allows the dropout to bend around the locknuts. I think a larger surface area would make the setup more bullet proof for my heavy handed approach. Even though I might be 170 soaking wet. I will try out an axle with 3/8th bolts next. I don't want to be stuck with 14mm forks.

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12/8/2017 11:33 AM

Helijames wrote:

the hubs are the OEM hubs from my old shovelhead and I think that the problem is that there isn't enough contact area inside ...more

If you have a large diameter on either side of the dropout, the whole setup in that area becomes stiffer and stronger; not weaker. You don't need the contact areas on the dropouts to be the same size.

To me, it seems like you're landing far too heavily into the smith with the bike leaned into the ledge too far so you're only grinding on the very end of your peg rather than spreading the load evenly across the whole peg.

All that said, I'd definitely say to try 3/8 female; 3/8 male has a tendency to bend and snap very easily.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

12/8/2017 5:13 PM

Aitkenisgod wrote:

14mm. That used to be what I ran back in the day (old fart), shocked me when I started riding again that everyone runs 3/8ths. ...more

Same
But I have noticed that you have a less chance of bending a female front. I am not going into science but it is not easily done. I also never bent my 3/8th rear doing feeble grinds back in the later 90’s...but bent my front. Think it is about the hun/axel quality and in the case of the rear...just more evenly distributed. So, females for front are great and unless you are on a tight budget... almost any is good. If you are really worried get an Odyssey or GSport front, they are just amazing

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12/9/2017 8:07 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/9/2017 8:09 AM

Bsd acid forks has some super thick dropouts. I'll try and post a pic later. The strongest front hub you can get is a g-sport simian. It's bullet proof. G sport uses heat treated 4140 bolts with a 20mm center axle. Those are pretty damn hard to break, and probably the strongest 3/8 bolts you can get. Another thing about forks, if your breaking a lot, look for lifetime warranty. I'd say Odyssey, but they only have 4mm dropouts. I know cult sect IC has thicker dropouts and also lifetime, plus they look awesome. There's others too. Oh yeah, I have a cult match female front hub for sale, if your looking for something cheap. It's in nice shape too.

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12/9/2017 9:20 AM

Helijames wrote:

I have gone through two front hubs and two sets of forks in the last 4 months. The axle starts to bend and then the dropout ...more

Buy hondas r25 fork!

Get female front axle/hub, youll be set. smile

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12/11/2017 12:28 PM

I have a female Cult crew hub on a IC-3 Cult fork and the combo is super solid, the dropouts actually straightened out a bent male axle I was using, good enough to smith on! The cult hub is basic female, but if you're even thinking about the IC-3 forks GET THEM!

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12/11/2017 6:49 PM

ggallin422 wrote:

Bsd acid forks has some super thick dropouts. I'll try and post a pic later. The strongest front hub you can get is a g-sport ...more

I have not seen many Odyssey or Sunday forks have bent dropouts. Same with Standard forks

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