Bike size, chainstay length, top tube length,bar hight

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9/22/2018 10:36 PM
Edited Date/Time: 9/22/2018 10:37 PM

Had a few questions. Hopefully to learn a little more about my set up. I'm trying to get back into freestyle(park) bmx. I'm 40, 5'10, 220. I bought a 2010 Eastern shovel head use not long ago but like new shape. I wear a size 13 shoe. I feel like I'm always hitting my pegs, and real front heavy. I'm always feeling like i'm leaning over and hard to pull back and Manual . Info on Like tt length, and chainstay length ever bar hight would be great.I'm looking for info on set ups that will give me the best experience, even if I have to invest. I appreciate all help and feedback. Thanks alot. Just trying to live a little with my little ones

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9/23/2018 12:35 AM

It's massively down to personal preference really. But higher bars and short chainstays make it easier to lift the front. However, longer chainstays would give you more foot/peg clearance. Changing set up might make things a little easier, but building the muscles used when riding and dialling technique would be more beneficial

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9/23/2018 1:47 AM

That bike has a short TT @20.5”. The stem is frontload and the bars are 8.25” tall. Crank arms are 180mm. It is also a trail bike, so the headtube angle is mellow and the chainstay is gonna be longer than the common street geometrys of today.

First and foremost, remove the pegs. You can at least solve one of your problems for free, right now. Then just get used to everything else

If you absolutely must retain your pegs and want to upgrade parts, then go for shorter cranks like 165s or even 160s since youre walking on boats. Taller bars wont hurt; I would recommend 9” if staying with your stem. Or you could instead get a tall topload stem and spacers. Going even further, maybe even too far, would be to get steeper forks like Odyssey r25s.

Honestly though, the parts needed to compensate for the geometry will be expensive and too twitchy for park when you eventually upgrade to a more modern frame. If you are planning to do anything beyond removing pegs and getting taller bars, you are better off buying a used custom complete online. Your frame isnt full chromoly, it isnt fully sealed, and the front rim is single wall (not worth upgrading parts unless they break). I personally think the mellower geometry of your current ride will be better for park riding in the long term and that you should just get used to it. I think its more than enough to get you by until you outgrow it in a year or so. Thats my $0.02

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9/23/2018 2:00 AM

I have an Eastern Element in the garage similar frame. It’s fine for someone your height, the problem is your shoe size. The Eastern complete bikes all came with 170-180mm cranks depending on the spec. You are probably dealing with the 175mm cranks. So, with a big shoe it’s going to hit the peg. I wear a 10, ride a 20.75 and my foot tends to hit the pegs at times. The reason is 1 of 2 things: 1- Odd foot position. Meaning you ride your foot way forward or way back (depending on the peg you hit). This can be fixed with switching foot placement. 2- You ride goofy footed and you have your foot on the wrong side of the bike for the tricks you hit the pegs. In 35+ years of riding I now can go both ways with tricks. But, learning wasn’t as easy seeing I come from racing in the 80’s and 90’s so I was use to sprocket on the right. Later I realized I should be doing most things left, not right... but it was too late. Before LHD came to be I was already learning everything the other way too.

Best advice is to either setup the stuff you have so you are comfortable. Or, set it up as best you can like taking off the pegs to give more room. Last, save up and buy a new bike with a longer frame and more modern parts.

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9/23/2018 2:13 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

It's massively down to personal preference really. But higher bars and short chainstays make it easier to lift the front. ...more

Thanks. I definitely need to work on my strength. I'm just getting back into it.

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9/23/2018 2:23 AM

XxCAKEWOLFxX wrote:

That bike has a short TT @20.5”. The stem is frontload and the bars are 8.25” tall. Crank arms are 180mm. It is also a trail ...more

Man dropping my pegs would kill me. Lolol the only tricks I can do r rail grinds, manual and Some fakie besides bunny hop and a few other things. But it will be worth looking for a smaller crank arms or new crank all together. And taller bars. Thanks the information I'm looking for. Like u said. I'm going to try and work with this through the fall and winter then if I'm feeling good about I will just start from scratch. Been on line looking at some S&M frames. R there other makers I should be looking at? Thanks again for your thoughts and help.

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9/23/2018 2:41 AM

Gack2000 wrote:

I have an Eastern Element in the garage similar frame. It’s fine for someone your height, the problem is your shoe size. The ...more

I definitely need work on foot placement. When I do tricks or should I say when I try tricks I do feel more comfortable do stuff to the right. I jump and grind on right side, or footjam tailwhip bmx. I do end up with right foot back and left foot forward. And if I did if was doing a pedal grind on sprocket grind I would feel more comfortable coming in from the left for sprocket grind and opposite for a pedal grind. I don't know if I'm making any sense.lol. so should I have the sprocket on the other side? Again thanks for the reply and help. Photo

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