Bike weight and its effects

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6/3/2015 3:18 AM

Time for a theoretical discussion lol

I know weight weenies exist and I'd like to say for the record I'm not one.. really.
I mean I don't wanna be rolling a tank, but if I had to choose between a bike that weighed in @ 23 pounds vs one that weighed 23.5 I wouldn't let that factor in my decision to potentially pick a better bike.

that being said, if we presume that bike parts are steadily progressing and becoming stronger (regardless of weight) is there anyone who would rather ride heavier than lighter? if so, why?

I think that a lighter bike would be more manoeuvrable for anyone riding them. far easier to manipulate, resulting in minor changes to be made to bike position in any given situation. F x M= acceleration. simple shit really. something heavy going in a certain direction (one that you don't want) is going to be more difficult to correct.

but how does it affect anything else?.. I've heard guys say manuals get more difficult on lighter bikes, more prone to looping just as much as I've heard heavier bikes won't air as much. after the individual rider, which will be the predominant factor in any situation, how does weight directly affect you? and what's your preferred weight and why?

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6/3/2015 8:47 AM

I was on this rotating weight kick for awhile, and ended up on Maxxis Rizers with 18 inch tubes with G-sport Birdcages.

I really didn't like the way the bike felt. I can't really articulate it very well, but it was almost like there was no "feedback". I couldn't really feel how fast the bike was rotating.

I went back to Hawk tires with normal tubes, and I like the bike a lot better now.

As far as overall bike weight, I've kinda found that anywhere below about 25 lbs is good enough. I've ridden my bike anywhere between 23 and 26 (brakes/no brakes, pegs/no pegs, metal pedals/plastic pedals, and various different tires from the Rizers (19 oz) to 2.45 Aitken (29 oz)) I can't say that I notice a difference between 23 and 24lbs. Once it gets above 25, it starts to feel like shit.

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6/3/2015 9:05 AM

Im trying to lighten mine up some

I got new tires And different wheel saving me about 12oz over all
and possibly getting new pegs and cranks soon to drop some more oz's

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6/3/2015 9:51 AM
Edited Date/Time: 6/3/2015 1:59 PM

I ride a bike with 4 pegs, a fullguard sprocket, a coaster, 4 guards, big tyres, a brake sometimes...
So my bike will never be as light as some people setups who run pegless, thin tyres and slim seat but this is the way i like my bike, so the weight doesn't matter. (I don't even know how much my bike weight but a lot of people rides lighter setups in my local park).

Also, i am a pretty big guy (6.1' / ~200 lbs) so i'm strong and I can understand than some people who are almost half of my weight wants to ride something lighter.

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6/3/2015 10:29 AM

I try to balance both not being very good or smooth I need less weight to move my bike easier but strength to make up for not being clean. Luckily some of the strongest parts made are also some of the lightest (Odyssey/GSport rims, thunderbolts, R32 forks, Animal big 4's, 2.1-2.2 tires...those are some personal examples of being strength but weight conscious). Luckily these days it's easy to have a tank of a bike under 25 lbs

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6/3/2015 10:43 AM

I think it matters where the weight is and the geo. Like if you have a shit ton of light parts and a heavy frame with long geo, it's still gonna be heavy feeling.

I think it's super important to have everything at a safe weight. No stupidly designed retardation. I had a 4lb Aitken s3.5 and snapped it in a month, but damn it felt good.

My bike at that point was REALLY light. It had to be 21 or 22 lbs with pegs. Shit didn't hold up though. Blew it up fast but i learned a lot on it. I think a light bike is easier to learn on. Like at skateparks I really don't wanna be lugging around a million pound bike just to three out of a bowl.

But if you take a 5 lb frame with short geo like 12.5 rearend and a 75.5 headtube, it's gonna feel pretty light and easy. So i guess what I'm saying is just parts being too heavy or too light is a bad thing. There is a happy medium for sure. My bike is like 25 pounds, i think. And the rearend would feel really heavy if it weren't a short backend. I have a Ratchet hub that is fairly heavy as hubs go. But in that point, I have that hub knowing it WON'T break.

I have ridden everything from a super light 21 lb bike to a 27 lb bike and I started on one that was 37. I wish i could have a bike that was 21 lbs and held up like a 37. Today, that's almost possible, but it's not necessary.

Weight isn't a BAD thing. I hated how this one dude's 19 lb park bike felt tbh. It was too crazy. I like something I can really trust.

23-25lbs is where it's at, end of story.

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6/3/2015 11:12 AM

I'd love to see the frame specs of the 40+lb 1999 haro shredder I rode when I weighed less than 100lbs...no wonder I could only bunny hop a few inches. That thing seemed to have a super long back end

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6/3/2015 11:20 AM

Consistency/sustainability is key i think. If you are used to something changes will be noticeable. I rode a 30lb + bike last year on trails for the whole spring and summer and it felt fine. So i bought an ATF frame and built something that ended up being like 23-24 lbs and it felt bad. but i spent like 500 bucks so i was gonna keep riding it and after a month its all i knew and everything was dialed again.

Now, another over the 3 months later, i switch bars then a stem, tires, a wheel, pedals, always looking to go lighter when picking the new part and everything made the bike feel weird for a ride or 2 but then it was fine again. with no improvement to my riding or comfort leave due to a lighter part. its obvious i guess but it all just comes down to your muscle memory. needless to say i buy parts based on durability and looks now. not weight.

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6/3/2015 11:25 AM
Edited Date/Time: 6/3/2015 2:15 PM

MaximusBikes wrote:

I think it matters where the weight is and the geo. Like if you have a shit ton of light parts and a heavy frame with long ...more

Yeah frame geo matters a lot.

I'm tall so my 21.5" frame is my favorite ever (exact same geo as my old 21"), everything just works better, even for street but i'm really stick to my 13.5" chainstays, shorter feels too twitchy and longer make me lose my manuals (i can manual forever with 13.5" cs), it also bring an heavier overall feeling, the bike is more sluggish and is a bit harder to pull up.

The BB height as also an influence on bike feeling, I personnaly like it low (11.5") because i feel more locked on the bike, but i had try some higher 11.8" BB and I don't really know how to explain it but the bike feels lighter.

Bar height is also a big deal when pull up the bike (also to finding good balance point for manual) a 2mm spacer can make a big difference, higher bars make the bike easier to pull up (feels lighter) but it also tends to loopout easier when manualing, it's all about personnal preferences and find the good bike setting, if the bike feels good, the weight doesn't matter.

I had never rode a super light bike, but i'm curious, it could be fun to try it, to see if it's really easier to ride, and if it feels solid or way too weak.

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6/3/2015 12:05 PM

I don't really like light bikes. They just feel week and breakable to me. My bike feels perfect with metal pedals, a heavy back wheel, thick tires and tubes wrapped in tubes wrapped in tubes, three metal pegs with guards, and brakes. Not sure how much it weighs but it's probably around 27lbs. Feels perfect to me. Some kids ride it and complain because their bikes are 22lbs but their bikes just make me feel all weird and pussyish.

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6/3/2015 12:51 PM

Rode Anthony Messere's old custom MacNeil compete and it was way too light to enjoy . Spins felt good but loopy and manuals were too twitchy and hard to get into . Don't like light bikes .

My CK is a 4 pegged , guarded sprocket , 2.4 tire beast . It sounds dialled too . Getting on a bike that feels solid and heavy is the best . It makes you learn how to control it and muscle it around instead of just relying on weight . With the weight , you feel more in control . Like an anchor on a sailboat , a heavy bike makes you feel like the bike is a part of you , instead of a "bike"

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6/3/2015 12:53 PM

blaaaaaaaaa wrote:

I don't really like light bikes. They just feel week and breakable to me. My bike feels perfect with metal pedals, a heavy ...more

^
My bike ways 24lb without pegs and 26 with. I like running no pegs but under 23lb is querr.

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6/3/2015 1:20 PM

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

Rode Anthony Messere's old custom MacNeil compete and it was way too light to enjoy . Spins felt good but loopy and manuals ...more

The ck stock weight is 22lbs...

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6/3/2015 1:48 PM

blaaaaaaaaa wrote:

The ck stock weight is 22lbs...

Add 4 pegs , a guarded sprocket , heavier stem , bars , tires , pedals , and seat . I never said my bike was 18 lbs or that shit , but it isn't light by any means .

I switch my setup every so often so it changes here and there

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6/3/2015 4:40 PM

I prefer 25+ bikes. 24- feels way too light and I always end up "overdoing" a trick. Especially if someone's one end is light/heavier than their other end. With that being said, when I try riding peoples' bikes, I especially hate super light bikes with a super steep front end. I'm not used to that and I literally fly myself off the bike trying to pull a simple bunnyhop. I personally ride 2 pegs and my bike weighs 25 and the balance is perfect. With 4, the bike is a bit heavier, around 26, and sometimes I feel like I need more effort for tricks some days even though the balance is obviously spot on. As for tubes and tires, I don't give a crap about tubes, but I haven't exactly ever ridden any super heavy tires. Hawks are kinda heavy but I feel beter riding with them compared to riding super light tires.

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6/3/2015 7:29 PM

everyone always comments on how heavy my bike is, but it never has bothered me because if feels solid af and doesnt flex

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6/3/2015 9:22 PM

My bike is actually -12 pounds. Fed the thing weight watchers now I can't control it.

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6/4/2015 3:13 AM

I guess weight distribution also comes into play.
Consider if you had handlebars that weighed 15 lbs by themselves with tyres that were 16oz.. It would be madly top heavy and basically feel like shit if it were even possible to ride. Having said that, if you reversed the weight of the bars and tyres, you would end up with the titanic. (thinking anchor reference here as brayden_buckingham suggested) a bike that would either want to be straight up and down, or tipped on its side.
At the end of the day, weight isn't important and you WILL adjust to whatever you ride.. But for more experienced riders who can feel slight variances, changing things up may produce different results.. For example, if I had a massively heavy triple wall on the rear and a single wall on the front would manuals become easier? (when I say easy, I mean comfortable) ease has only to do with experience of any given trick imo.

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6/4/2015 4:49 AM

Tom_Davis197324 wrote:

I guess weight distribution also comes into play.
Consider if you had handlebars that weighed 15 lbs by themselves with tyres ...more

Manuals are more about finding the perfect balance point with your favorite chainstay lenght, bar height and BB height, the top tube can also play with weight distribution, my new frame is the same as the old one except the top tube lenght increase to 21.5" (from a 21") and my manuals are even better because i'm a bit less over my backend so i am less prone to loop out.

I think if you find the good balance point, the weight of the bike doesn't matter.
Also the backend of a bike is always heavier because of the bigger rear hub, chain, crank, BB, sprocket, pedals, even the seat, and also the fact than the "back end" of the bike (in terms of weight) don't start at the seat tube.
I mean... Grab your bike in the middle of the top tube and see what side your bike lean, it will always lean back. (from the middle of the top top there is more tubing in the rear).

Also, when you are on the bike the more your bar will be high the more easy it will be to pull up, but I have already explain that a bit upper in that topic.

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6/4/2015 7:44 AM

There is a balance between too light and too heavy, and it is different for everyone based on a lot of factors.

For me, 22-26 lbs is fine. I am not too picky, because of my roots in BMX starting on a 45 lb bike without pegs or brakes. Anything too much below 22 and it starts to feel "too light" for me, as though it wouldn't handle me thrashing about on it. It also starts to feel "too easy" to throw around and such, as though there is no feedback (similar post above).

Everyone has their "It's too light" threshold, it is a matter of preference to a certain degree. Obviously a 22 lb bike will be easier to whip than a 32 lb bike.

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6/4/2015 1:27 PM

I'm not too worried about weight most of the time. I have some of the heaviest pegs on the market as far as I know(Odyssey M pegs) and it doesn't really effect me that much.

Like I probably hop slightly lower when I have 4 Mpegs on but that's it.

I'm guessing my bike is over 25lbs right now but I could be wrong. I've never bothered to weigh it.

I definitely think that weight can be a factor to someone who is under the age of 13ish but after that, if you ride your bike long enough with the same parts, you'll get used to them and you'll be able to throw the bike around a good bit.

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6/4/2015 2:59 PM

Stevie can 3 whip flat on a 25lb bike



Fuck yo weights

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6/4/2015 3:08 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/4/2015 3:11 PM

Best thing I ever did was start on a 38 pound huffy , kids these days are stupid and try to take short cuts thinking a less heavy bike will give them skill, it won't, if a kid starts on a heavy 30 pound bike after a couple of years he will be able to build muscle hop on a 23 pound bike and destroy it , thankfully the kids who stick with riding and are down for the cause are usually those kids , you usually see the posers with the light bikes and nice parts at the sessions that constantly worry to much about the ride then the ride Ability they die off then the diehard riders can buy their shit off them when they realize their Pussys and quit and sell their ride

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6/4/2015 3:15 PM

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

Stevie can 3 whip flat on a 25lb bike



Fuck yo weights

I like you man, but ive seen handfuls of kids like you come and go , wouldn't be surprised if you got your liscense and sold your bike and we never heard from you again , Stevie can hop 3 whip but he ain't no Dave Osato or Jay miron

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6/4/2015 3:18 PM

I actually agree with the age vs weight thing.
When I was young everything felt heavier.
You get older and stronger and wiser and bike riding - along with everything else, becomes seemingly easier.
And it's funny how people seem to relate lightness to weakness.. Is there actually any truth to this?
I mean, obviously a lighter FRAME going to be lighter because the tubing is thinner. Bit with advancements of bikes as a whole is this really true? Not like we're all rolling hi-ten anymore Lol
This is what I can't seem to Understand, you can go out and buy a Derosa or Parlee (if you follow road bikes at all) and spend 20,000 grand plus!
With bmx, it's seems all the high end shit is not only cheap in comparison, it's like double the weight.. Would a carbon fibre bike put up with the stresses of street riding like cr-mo.. Or maybe certain parts that bear less weight (none really come to mind Haha) but you get the point

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6/4/2015 3:42 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/4/2015 3:48 PM

eskimojay wrote:

Best thing I ever did was start on a 38 pound huffy , kids these days are stupid and try to take short cuts thinking a less ...more

i know right im thinking back to the 90's when 34lbs was light.

haro backtrail
96 dyno slammer (i still own this bike its at my friends house all chrome with fork pegs haha)
gt fuel
dyno air
various free agents

mosh pro xl ( my race bike is still the lightest thing ive own, frame is in the garage ive had it for almost 20 years now)

i dont even remember all the bikes i owned as a kid. just some of em.


MASSIVE DROPOUTS AND THICKNESS BRAH

hahaha those bikes in those days the frames were indestructible and everything was 4130 cromo


i recently bought a fly proton and its 23lbs (just started riding again) and im trying to bunny hop and im doing supermans off the fuckin back of it haha

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6/4/2015 10:45 PM

ironmaiden666 wrote:

I try to balance both not being very good or smooth I need less weight to move my bike easier but strength to make up for not ...more

I agree with that. I ride flatland & my total bike weight is 18 lbs.4 oz and that includes front & back brakes & a gyro. I weigh 200 lbs. & have had zero problems. The lighter weight has helped me to be a much smoother rider & use more subtle bike control & balance points.

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6/5/2015 1:00 AM

quixnet99 wrote:

I agree with that. I ride flatland & my total bike weight is 18 lbs.4 oz and that includes front & back brakes & a ...more

well flatland bikes are usually lighter they dont need to be as strong as saw a street/park bike because theres really no stress, most of the stress is in the hubs and wheels. my friend dave debuono rides flatland and i remember back in our teens his bike was light then too.

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1996 dyno slammer, 1997 mosh pro, 1998 gt vertigo, 2000 haro backtrail x3, 2004 free agent tigercat, 2005 volume dinosaur, 2005 s&m black bike, 2013 stolen saint 24", 2015 flybikes proton

6/5/2015 2:10 AM

weight and balance would also be an interesting topic.
I'm not sure that would follow my theory on a weighted object being more difficult to move.
haha well really it's Newton's law. Technically Newton defined force to be the rate of change of momentum (of course changing the weight would change the acceleration and thus, force. shit gets deep lol

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6/5/2015 4:45 AM

i havent really noticed a major difference because of a bikes weight until it gets way up there with like the midschool tanks

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