Completely mindfucked ... PLZ help

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5/14/2017 4:19 PM

This morning I finally started building up my new bike: (precise build just uploaded as a bike check). It was all going fine, until a physical "impossibility" happened which makes me fear I've fucked up a couple of hundred dollars worth of cranks or worse:

the bottom bracket's outer casing and the bottom bracket shell had both been well lubed up: ceramic grease. BB went in easily, then the spindle, then the cone spacers. Separately I put together {Left Crank Arm + Sprocket + Left Pedal} and {Right Crank Arm + Right Pedal}. I slid on left first, then right-(a lot of bashing and screwing later and the picture below has happened).

That is: I have managed to free the right crank arm and pedal. However, the left side is going nowhere and SOMEHOW the 8 mm Allen wrench is entwined with the compression bolt so it cannot turn either way without hitting the crank arm.

Retrospectively I didn't lube up inner BB or spindle ...

If anyone has any ideas as to how I can get this sorted, help would be VERY much appreciated!

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5/14/2017 4:47 PM

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Instagram : braydenbuckingham
My Cult 2 Short

5/14/2017 6:14 PM

uhh..hammer it out?

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5/14/2017 6:37 PM

Beat the spindle from the other side and it'll tap the spindle and bolt through and should free some room for the allen wrench to be removed. Use lots of WD40 and let it sink in before doing that though, then make sure you grease the splines & spindle when you put it back together.

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5/14/2017 7:02 PM

I still don't understand at all.

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5/14/2017 7:23 PM

Thanks a lot guys. Will give that a try and send update v soon - it's 03:15 in London right now though so I don't think the neighbours'd be too happy if I did it in the next few hours LOL.

Assuming this works out:
1. Is there a possible reason for these cranks being especially stiff?
2. Is there anything imp-articular I should do next time other than just slather on the lube?

Thanks again.

Cameron

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5/14/2017 10:00 PM

Am I being punked.?!

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5/14/2017 11:43 PM

Can you not just loosen the bolt off a bit then wiggle the Allen key out?
Then, wind the bolt out a couple of threads, smack the bolt with a rubber mallet to act like a crank arm puller?
If it's not that simple, I'd be worried you've put the crank arm on a little pissed and ruined the splines

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5/15/2017 2:01 PM

I have a sinking feeling that you cross threaded the bolt into the spindle. But, with the right tools you will only need 1 new bolt (hardware store) and that's it. I will list the tools and how to do it and I wish you luck. If you lived near me, I could do it for you...but your in London.

Tools:
Hacksaw
Screw extraxtor (fits on a drill)
Penetrating oil
Tap and dye kit
Drill bit the same size as the allen

1- Cut of all the Allen wrench flush with the crank bolt.

2- Drill (with the drill bit use a metal bit) the allen till it goes in some from the flush you cut it. Should look like a contact lens when you are far enough.

3- Coat the sides of the bolt with the oil. It will go down on the bolt and threads plus the splines of the crank arm. Let it set about 1 hour. You may need to do it again so Ill get to that in a second.

4a- Ok, put on the screw/bolt extractor on the drill. Whipe off ANY oil on the bolt.

4b- Put the extractor on the allen where you made it somewhat like a contact lens. Start the drill holding it on that spot. Apply some force to it. If lucky it should pull the bolt out or up enough that some pliers will work to take it the rest of the way out.

5- Use your freshly bought bolt from the hadware store and lube it with grease. Put it to the side, you will need it soon.

6- Use the tap and dye kit to make sure you clean the thread inside the spindle. Try putting the new bolt in. If it goes in smoothly and straight. Your set. If not, you will have to buy a new spindle. If you got really unlucky you cross threaded the spindle and crank arm. If thats the case...you will have to get new cranks. You can tell, if the inside of the crank arm is kinda smooth...that's what happened. Hard to do, but I have had it happen once and it was a pain in the ass and wallet.

If you have a machine shop near you, they can probably fix it for a cheap price. Or if you don't have the tools to do it.

Hope that helps. And NEVER use a hammer. A rubber mallet is cheap and won't screw up stuff. Or a piece of wood on the arm and hit the wood with a hammer. NEVER hit metal, bad things tend to happen.

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6/10/2017 7:33 AM

Thanks so much for your help. I have now managed to remove the tool and the bolt attached to it. I thought I should just upload these pictures in case anyone had any explanation for what has happened and if it affects how I should re-try the installation:

Basically what has happened is that the allen-wrench has gone straight through the crank bolt, (almost coming out the other end). It is properly stuck on: I have tried putting the bolt in a vice and hammering it out but it won't budge. I've never seen this before so was just wondering what you guys thought? Does this prompt any new theories about what happened? Also: I recognise that the bolt is probably a goner but is there any reason to believe the tool is damaged?

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Thanks in advance.

Cameron

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6/10/2017 8:48 AM

Maybe it's the wrong tool. Is it standard or metric?

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6/10/2017 11:36 AM

Sounds/looks like you probably over tightened the bolt. The Allen key has probably twisted at a slight angle. So it's dug itself into the bolt. Put the bolt on top of a vice, with the Allen key between the jaws, but don't tighten the jaws. Then, smack the Allen key out with something. Or, if you just want to save the Allen key, clamp the bolt by the threads into a vice and wiggle the Allen key in all angles.

You really don't need to use an Allen key that long the get crank bolts to a decent torque

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6/10/2017 2:20 PM

Cheers. Finally got the bolt free of the allen key using the vice method you described!

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