Crank and Stem issue.

for your fork problem: You need to cut that steer tube down your fork cap isnt compressing anything which is why your headset is loose

Cranks: That's normal mine are like that too

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

...more

yep theres that option too

Cool thanks man, I had another question when I put that spacer in-between the bottom bracket bearings (pre-load spacer), there was a small gap (it didn't fit flush between the bearings). It was a little less then a quarter inch (like 6 or 7 mm), do you think that would be an issue?

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Cool thanks man, I had another question when I put that spacer in-between the bottom bracket bearings (pre-load spacer), there ...more

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Cool thanks man, I had another question when I put that spacer in-between the bottom bracket bearings (pre-load spacer), there was a small gap (it didn't fit flush between the bearings). It was a little less then a quarter inch (like 6 or 7 mm), do you think that would be an issue?

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shouldn't really be an issue my bottom bracket bearings aren't perfectly spaced too haha and i've had no problems

Awesome, I'll try out your suggestion and let ya know how it turns out.

Put that big spacer underneath the stem and it came up a few mm above the steer-tube. I tightened everything down and it still makes that sound when the front end lands. It still has that gap between the dust-cover and the frame too. I don't know it almost feels like that top bearing isn't sitting in the frame right.

You probably need another headset spacer.

As for the Thunderbolts, that's normal. However, if your cranks spin slowly when you tighten them down, there's something up with your spacer setup. Make sure the internal spacer fits properly.

Ok I'll probably end up driving an hour to my "local" bike-shop tomorrow. Those BB bearings aren't gonna come out without a fight. Plus I'm gonna admit I have no idea what I'm doing here, thanx for the help guys.

Xxohioanxx wrote:

You probably need another headset spacer.

As for the Thunderbolts, that's normal. However, if your cranks spin slowly when ...more

Xxohioanxx wrote:

You probably need another headset spacer.

As for the Thunderbolts, that's normal. However, if your cranks spin slowly when you tighten them down, there's something up with your spacer setup. Make sure the internal spacer fits properly.

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This.

Also double check your headset is installed properly and a bearing isn't on upside down or something, all credit for these photos go to brianoob but it should go like this

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sometimes you also need a thin spacer that comes with the headset above the compression ring and below the dust cover, it helps prevent the dust cover from rubbing the head tube but you don't have that problem.



As for your cranks, like Ohio said, it's normal but if they're spinning sluggish when you tighten them up, your internal spacer is likely too short or not there at all so get that fixed too. Also, as the cranks wear in more, the cluster should be able to slide in a little more. Mine did anyway, and I could tighten them up a bit more and they're a little more flush now but they looked like yours did when I first got them

The clink is the only thing that gets me. Must be a spacer issue. You may need a little one on top of your current one. That tends to help and you gotta be sure it's all tight.

I'll keep messing around with it tomorrow and see what happens. I'm gonna try and get those BB bearings out too (with a socket extender or something), a new set only cost 25 bucks, so it's not a huge loss.

The thing about the spacer(s) is, if I add anymore (other than that fat one), the compression bolt won't thread to anything.

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

I'll keep messing around with it tomorrow and see what happens. I'm gonna try and get those BB bearings out too (with a socket ...more

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

I'll keep messing around with it tomorrow and see what happens. I'm gonna try and get those BB bearings out too (with a socket extender or something), a new set only cost 25 bucks, so it's not a huge loss.

The thing about the spacer(s) is, if I add anymore (other than that fat one), the compression bolt won't thread to anything.

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It should thread in enough. Just find a 2-3mm spacer and it should work. Worst case scenario is you need to get a hacksaw and cut your steerer tube down. It's simple. Find someone with an extra stem or seat clamp, put it where you want to cut it and clamp the fork down in a vise, cut it, and file the edges.

To get the bottom bracket bearings out, take the biggest socket you can fit through the bearings at a slight angle, rest it against the bearing on the other side, and hit it with a hammer, working your way around the bearing until it comes out. Be gentle and don't keep hitting the same spot. You shouldn't damage them.

so should I be tapping the center or outside of the bearing?

are you tightening properly? top cap first then side bolts?

yeah, compression bolt first then side bolts.

I think I might know what I was doing wrong, I might of been using the bearing race instead of the compression ring,



I take it bearing race is on the left and compression ring is on the right?

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

...more

I'd say you're better off cutting it down, saves from headaches in the long run.

Will cutting it void odyssey's warranty? Also can you tell me which is the bearing race and which is the compression ring? I wanna say bearing race is on the left and compression ring is on the right.

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Will cutting it void odyssey's warranty? Also can you tell me which is the bearing race and which is the compression ring? I ...more

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Will cutting it void odyssey's warranty? Also can you tell me which is the bearing race and which is the compression ring? I wanna say bearing race is on the left and compression ring is on the right.

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No odyssey won't void your warranty for shortening them just don't over cut them.

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

I think I might know what I was doing wrong, I might of been using the bearing race instead of the compression ring,



I ...more

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

I think I might know what I was doing wrong, I might of been using the bearing race instead of the compression ring,



I take it bearing race is on the left and compression ring is on the right?

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Yep. You need the one on the right.

Cutting down your steerer tube won't void your warranty.

It doesn't really matter where you hit the bottom bracket bearings, just be gentle and work all the way around.

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

johnnyluvbuckets wrote:

Instead of cutting it down, can I just use spacers until the stem sits above the steer-tube?

...more

TheRadDragon wrote:

I'd say you're better off cutting it down, saves from headaches in the long run.

TheRadDragon wrote:

I'd say you're better off cutting it down, saves from headaches in the long run.

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But then there is less space for a gyro and whatnot. Brakes are awesome!

Ok I think everything's good now, turns out I was using the bearing race instead of the compression ring. I also got the bearing out with a punch and put the right sized spacer in there, so that's running smooth too. Gonna go out and ride and see what happens. Thanx again everybody for the help, I was starting to feel like Simple Jack for a bit there.