Cranks became very stiff after replacing driver (driver spins perfect though..)

Does your driver have the orange/red rubber O ring on it still ? I know when I had odyssey hubs the driver would lock up or become tighter because of the O ring gripping the hub shell, removing it fixed the problem, I don't know if this is the same in your case but worth a shot. Just remember if you do this to regularly clean the driver as the O ring will be missing so dirt can enter the hub/ratchet easier.

Cellmember wrote:

Does your driver have the orange/red rubber O ring on it still ? I know when I had odyssey hubs the driver would lock up or ...more

Cellmember wrote:

Does your driver have the orange/red rubber O ring on it still ? I know when I had odyssey hubs the driver would lock up or become tighter because of the O ring gripping the hub shell, removing it fixed the problem, I don't know if this is the same in your case but worth a shot. Just remember if you do this to regularly clean the driver as the O ring will be missing so dirt can enter the hub/ratchet easier.

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the one that goes around the outer-most edge of the driver, sealing it against the outer-most ring of of the outside of the hub-body? I had a black (seemed more plastic than rubber) thin washer/gasket there, honestly I don't even recall seeing it yesterday when installing this but a lot of times it kind of sticks into the little groove that runs along that outermost edge - I'll see if it's there but I don't think that's it (will check though because this is driving me nuts and I need to be sure before crossing any potential suspects off my list!) because the wheel itself spins so damn freely (in both directions and whether spun by hand or with the pedal), it's like my chain's too tight or my crank's spindle bolts were put too-tight (but neither of those are the case!)

Make sure pawls are facing the right way? Are you totally sure it LHD? Idk man that sucks. Take it apart, and try again. Make sure the pawls are catching properly. I put my pawls back in backwards one time. It was bad.

ggallin422 wrote:

Make sure pawls are facing the right way? Are you totally sure it LHD? Idk man that sucks. Take it apart, and try again. Make ...more

ggallin422 wrote:

Make sure pawls are facing the right way? Are you totally sure it LHD? Idk man that sucks. Take it apart, and try again. Make sure the pawls are catching properly. I put my pawls back in backwards one time. It was bad.

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I know I'm long-winded when I write so I'm guessing you didn't read my whole post but yeah it's a LHD driver lol, the pawls are catching beautifully (in fact I'm f'ing in love with the noise of them, mmmm fresh pawls bangin that hub w/ minimal grease to slow their snapping!)

That's funny re the pawls (though I'm sure a PITA for you as putting pawls in is probably one of my least favorite things on a bike lol) but my pawls were already installed, like I was installing a built, brand-new 10t driver (that literally says 'odyssey' and 'LHD' on the hub itself) and, with the inordinate amount of time spent on this LHD conversion, I know the look of that driver w/o even having to look at it I could draw an accurate picture lol ;P, but in addition to all that it rides beautifully, in fact when riding you don't even notice the stiffness of the cranks because you're using your legs, it's just something that I can tell when moving them by hand.

I'm betting there's something missing, a spacer or something. So when you spin your wheel freely, it spins. But when you put pressure on it by cranking, something is moving causing friction. Make sure everything fits snug, is tightened properly and there's no room for anything to move. Double check all the spacers and bearings etc.

It was the compression nut, for some reason it was moving when I tightened the wheel in....left it ~1/16th turn looser before re-tightening the axle nuts and all was well, am in love with this new driver I've ridden 2nd-hand drivers and wheels for so long I forgot how crisp the clicking is, feels great riding it (I changed my rear-end length as well while I had it off, by removing an outer&inner link from my KMC and replacing it with one of their half-link pieces, had to build the chain in-place it barely fits when cranks are in their 'ti///ght spot' but think it's fine ;p, have been waiting months for this chain to stretch enough to be able to use its half-link am so stoked!! The total reduction in CS was just shy of 0.25" (this is on my new frame that's half an inch shorter at 20.5" so I've reduced my wheelbase .75" in the past month it is insane how squirrelly it's become!!)

adfkje wrote:

the one that goes around the outer-most edge of the driver, sealing it against the outer-most ring of of the outside of the ...more

adfkje wrote:

the one that goes around the outer-most edge of the driver, sealing it against the outer-most ring of of the outside of the hub-body? I had a black (seemed more plastic than rubber) thin washer/gasket there, honestly I don't even recall seeing it yesterday when installing this but a lot of times it kind of sticks into the little groove that runs along that outermost edge - I'll see if it's there but I don't think that's it (will check though because this is driving me nuts and I need to be sure before crossing any potential suspects off my list!) because the wheel itself spins so damn freely (in both directions and whether spun by hand or with the pedal), it's like my chain's too tight or my crank's spindle bolts were put too-tight (but neither of those are the case!)

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Yes the rubber on the edge of the driver, it may not be the problem but it's worth a look at. Another thing to check would be to make sure the spacer for the BB bearings is installed and if it is, check it to see if it is the correct length depending on BB size, there are 3 sizes currently. Let us know how it goes.

adfkje wrote:

It was the compression nut, for some reason it was moving when I tightened the wheel in....left it ~1/16th turn looser before ...more

adfkje wrote:

It was the compression nut, for some reason it was moving when I tightened the wheel in....left it ~1/16th turn looser before re-tightening the axle nuts and all was well, am in love with this new driver I've ridden 2nd-hand drivers and wheels for so long I forgot how crisp the clicking is, feels great riding it (I changed my rear-end length as well while I had it off, by removing an outer&inner link from my KMC and replacing it with one of their half-link pieces, had to build the chain in-place it barely fits when cranks are in their 'ti///ght spot' but think it's fine ;p, have been waiting months for this chain to stretch enough to be able to use its half-link am so stoked!! The total reduction in CS was just shy of 0.25" (this is on my new frame that's half an inch shorter at 20.5" so I've reduced my wheelbase .75" in the past month it is insane how squirrelly it's become!!)

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Ahh slippery bastard , chuck some loctite on that bad boy and it should fix that problem. Awesome, short rear ends are so good, I'm on 12.75" and that's coming from 14 - 13.75 .5 .25 etc etc... I don't think I'd ever go back to longer.