Decisions, should i get a new frame, old guy

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5/31/2018 2:51 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/31/2018 3:20 PM

Hi thanks for reading, please read to understand my point.
I started riding in 2006~ with a bike a friend gave me, rode that, bought one in 2007, WTP daredevil i think it was. that frame broke, then got a 2009 united supreme su3 brakeless complete which i am still riding.
i am now getting 34 old in sept, dont feel old by any means... but i only get to ride 2 times a week at max. because of my job.
last year i upgraded my bars to 9' rise, because i am 184cm (6'dunno?) on a 20.5 frame.
this year i had more fun riding, and swapped my complete bike from rhd to lhd by buying cranks (rant 48 spline 165) and (coming from cassette to freecoaster to cassette) bought a FLY-BIKES Trebol Cassette lhd rear.
i am really happy about swapping to lhd as i am right foot forward and grinding on the right side. i also wanted to try plastic pegs and bought 2.

i even learned a new trick i wanted to be able to do for 3 years which was feeble hard 180. also learned a couple of other new tricks since then. bike kinda feels hard on my shoulders thoug, its heavy. dunno if i need a high rise stem. mine is a frontload without any rise.

today i rode a young guys bike, 20.75 frame, no idea which company complete bike (I think wtp). this thing was so much lighter than mine!!!!! i also enjoyed it being a longer frame, still would want it with a higher rise.

with my frame being that old, and seeing a "modern" complete bike being that much lighter which upgrade would you recommend to me?
i need to ease my shoulders and back as well. my mind is not ready for stopping to ride!
a new frame? as mine is 20.5 waaay to short for me... will a shorter CS and higher bars make my shoulders feel comfier?
or just forks maybe? more room for headset spacers..
i ride street/park only.
any ideas?

thanks!

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5/31/2018 3:19 PM

The geometry makes far more difference than weight, maybe a 21 inch TT frame with a higher BB to make things more responsibility.

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Hmmm

5/31/2018 3:32 PM

I’m 43, and ride pretty much everything. If you are 6’ so am I so this might really help you. I ride a 20.75, with a front load stem. So I have a bit longer top tube but only due to the stem. I can ride a 21 but I like the idea of a bit more compact frame. Just feels better to me for manuals and hopping. I have a good hop already on any frame so don’t use the thinking that you can be hopping better with a short frame. It could just be that seeing I got really good at it in the 90’s it carried over. But, it’s true that you have a bit less bike vs a 21...very little but still. Bars, I run 8.5 they just feel right with the frame and I never understood the huge bar trend. Now, in some but not all cases as you know with a shorter frame the back end might be shorter. If you hit your heel on a peg, you probably would want say 170mm cranks. Plus, as we get older we don’t recover as fast. And according to studies a shorter crank is better for the knees. Something to keep in mind.

I would get a frame in 20.75, 20.85 or 21. Try going to a shop and measure the frames. The one that feels good is what you probably want. And forks, get some. You can get decent but not amazing forks for under $100 USD or at times really good ones on sale for less than $100. As far as bars, it like everything is personal choice. But, if you do what I do and get a 20.75 I would consider a front load stem. Just a bit more room to move around while still having a tad shorter frame that is a bit easier to spin on.

Hit me up if you want, minus riding mountain bikes for about 1-2yrs I have not stopped BMX since I was 6. So might have more information you can use.

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5/31/2018 11:32 PM

The general rule of thumb is 21" if you're about 6'.
I'm 37, and usually only get to ride once a week, but it's my main hobby and wouldn't think twice about getting a new frame if I felt I could justify it.
My advice would be to get something with a longer tt, and shorter chainstays, maybe higher bb too, depending on the height of yours. So, maybe a 21" tt with 13.5" chainstays (very average now). But if we knew the geometry of your current frame it would be easier to compare

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6/1/2018 12:48 AM

Id go 21"

Im like 5'11" (180.34cm)ish

Tried a 20.75 frame with 75° ht and it felt awful to me. No room

I cant think of a single person tall or not that has hopped on any of my 21"tt bikes and said "it feels too big".

I ride a 21" tt with a 75.25 ht mostly and it feels great with top load stem and 9.5 rise bars.

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6/1/2018 12:03 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/1/2018 3:02 PM

thanks guys, how much of a difference in weight would a new aftermarket frame be compared to a 2009 complete bike frame which was 600€ (for the whole bike)?

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6/2/2018 12:40 AM

ropez wrote:

thanks guys, how much of a difference in weight would a new aftermarket frame be compared to a 2009 complete bike frame which ...more

It won't be a huge difference. Maybe half a lb, but the geometry will make if feel lighter and easier to throw around

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6/2/2018 2:57 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/2/2018 2:58 PM

which part can give you the most out of weight for money? i dont want to spend a fortune, as i think i wont be able to ride a long time anymore, with my back wrist shoulder an knee pain (diagnosed jumpers knee, rest just sore quickly)?
recently my elbows and palms started to hurt as well, which might come from the new grips (cult AK).
the have a different pattern on the outside (i have the circles where my thumb is), which is a bit harder material.
dunno how to describe not being native speaker but the outside of my palm (inside of hand, right side on right hand where the hand grabs the handlebar) hurts.
never had that, gotta change grips to some odi, where the pattern is even on the whole grip, only heard good about them but never had them.

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6/2/2018 2:59 PM

ropez wrote:

which part can give you the most out of weight for money? i dont want to spend a fortune, as i think i wont be able to ride a ...more

Worry more about geometry than weight, the right geometry in a frame will make as much difference as 10lbs would

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Hmmm

6/2/2018 3:08 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/2/2018 3:11 PM

ropez wrote:

thanks guys, how much of a difference in weight would a new aftermarket frame be compared to a 2009 complete bike frame which ...more

grumpySteve wrote:

It won't be a huge difference. Maybe half a lb, but the geometry will make if feel lighter and easier to throw around

united told my my bike frame is:
Top Tube Length
20.5"
Chainstay Length
13.75”
Head Tube Angle
75°
Seat Tube Angle
71°
Standover Height
8”
BB Height
11.8"

isnt too far off current popular geo tbh, considering its almost 9 years old smile

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6/2/2018 3:10 PM

ropez wrote:

which part can give you the most out of weight for money? i dont want to spend a fortune, as i think i wont be able to ride a ...more

Edman123 wrote:

Worry more about geometry than weight, the right geometry in a frame will make as much difference as 10lbs would

i know, but i was just curious as i am not really familiar of the difference which 9 years of bike part development did.

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6/2/2018 3:30 PM

The best places to save weight in my opinion are cranks and wheels. Although it depends what you have. 8 spline cheap cranks will weigh probably close to double any aftermarket cranks. And there's a few solid rims out there that are reasonably light. Same with hubs, a female 14mm alloy axle with 10mm bolts will weigh a lot less than a cheap hub with a solid 14mm male axle.
Bar height can make a huge difference, with taller bars making it easier to lift the front end, and help relieve back pain.
But, you'd be surprised how much difference 1/4" of chainstay length can affect the feel of a bike too. Plus if your toptube is too short, you'll be more hunched over the bike.
To put it into perspective, I've got a custom fbm frame that cost nearly triple the price of some other aftermarket frames. My bike in total is worth about £1600. I know not everyone takes it that seriously, or has the money to spend on a bike. But it's dialled exactly how I want it. If I get another frame any time soon, it will be another custom fbm, because I love mine. How my bike rides makes me want to continue riding. I'm getting old, but I'd rather have a bike that feels perfect and puts a smile on my face, than have a bike I struggle to ride and don't like.

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6/2/2018 3:48 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

The best places to save weight in my opinion are cranks and wheels. Although it depends what you have. 8 spline cheap cranks ...more

today i was able to ride a 21, it had so much more room than my 20.5.
and i liked the way it rode, coulda have a higher bar to my taste.
i heard about you having a custom frame, but im quite sure ill get something "cheap" which will suit me.
im looking at having my CS at 13.00 minimum, but nothing longer than 13.4 or something.
75.5 HT angle, now i have 75 which doesnt feel too steep at all
21 TT lenght, upping from 20.5
standover max 9.00
BB height i dont relly know. united told me i have 11.8, which i feel modern frames dont even have.

i think fiend morrow or stranger crux would fit my needs.

fiend frame is at 300€ atm on sourcebmx, looking at this one for a while - anyone have experience with fiend frames? didnt read any bad words about reynolds brand.


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