F***** my frame

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5/16/2020 7:31 AM

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

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5/16/2020 7:34 AM

I also don’t know much first hand about frames because I’ve only ever owned this stolen which I’m pretty sure is broken. Outside of marketing tactics and reviews that’s the only info I have on frames. I like the idea of a Sunday 41-thermal because of the lifetime warranty.

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5/16/2020 9:02 AM

Go with any frame thats is in your budget and has the geo you want but yes the sundays are nice even thought i'm about to buy a bsd sureshot personally.

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5/16/2020 9:04 AM

Plus the sureshot frame is on sale for 247$ on source bmx and its normally 330$

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5/16/2020 9:58 AM

That sucks man, I got stuck out of bmx for nearly 2 years because I bent my frame at the head tube. S&M makes great stuff but if you want the best of the best then buy laird frame. I’d 1000% rock that shit if I had the funds but I don’t.

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5/16/2020 10:50 AM

HavokDJ wrote:

That sucks man, I got stuck out of bmx for nearly 2 years because I bent my frame at the head tube. S&M makes great stuff but if you want the best of the best then buy laird frame. I’d 1000% rock that shit if I had the funds but I don’t.

Thanks for the reply. I’ve seen you write some stuff about that brand. Is that the guy that welds any geo you want? Also I’m kinda still learning about geo like I know I like the 32 fork but idk about stand over hight and I know my current chain stay is rather long but not sure how to measure to find out. Plus I don’t think they make my current frame anymore so it’s hard to find specs... also what kind of damage could I do to my forks if I keep riding? It’s not a lot of play but about 1/8 inch either direction. I don’t notice it when I’m riding though

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5/16/2020 10:55 AM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

Ha bro are you getting play after a while once you tightened your headset?

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J. Stjohn

5/16/2020 10:56 AM

HavokDJ wrote:

That sucks man, I got stuck out of bmx for nearly 2 years because I bent my frame at the head tube. S&M makes great stuff but if you want the best of the best then buy laird frame. I’d 1000% rock that shit if I had the funds but I don’t.

I just looked up the company you suggested. I want to do more research about the warranty information and I have no clue what to put in for all the spec options. I would get the park set up, but I ride dirt, street and park no flat land stuff. It seems like a really cool idea to go with laird given warranty stuff is easy and the product is dependable. For an extra 50 bucks it would make sense to get the laird vs the Sunday

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5/16/2020 11:02 AM

I’m asking about potential damage because A. I don’t want stop riding and B. It says I have to wait 12 weeks for the frame to come if I go with them

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5/16/2020 11:46 AM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

I just looked up the company you suggested. I want to do more research about the warranty information and I have no clue what to put in for all the spec options. I would get the park set up, but I ride dirt, street and park no flat land stuff. It seems like a really cool idea to go with laird given warranty stuff is easy and the product is dependable. For an extra 50 bucks it would make sense to get the laird vs the Sunday

The Sunday has a much stronger and more durable design and similar quality of manufacturing. Laird is a good welder but good welds don't make up for a subpar design. Since you're worried about warranty, Sunday will be much better as well.

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5/16/2020 11:52 AM

HavokDJ wrote:

That sucks man, I got stuck out of bmx for nearly 2 years because I bent my frame at the head tube. S&M makes great stuff but if you want the best of the best then buy laird frame. I’d 1000% rock that shit if I had the funds but I don’t.

rainescustoms99 wrote:

I just looked up the company you suggested. I want to do more research about the warranty information and I have no clue what to put in for all the spec options. I would get the park set up, but I ride dirt, street and park no flat land stuff. It seems like a really cool idea to go with laird given warranty stuff is easy and the product is dependable. For an extra 50 bucks it would make sense to get the laird vs the Sunday

Xxohioanxx wrote:

The Sunday has a much stronger and more durable design and similar quality of manufacturing. Laird is a good welder but good welds don't make up for a subpar design. Since you're worried about warranty, Sunday will be much better as well.

I know their 41-thermal is state of the art. Plus idk if I want to wait 12 weeks. Only down side is the biggest top tube length for the Sunday is 21.25 I think. And estimated average top tube length for me is 22.. I’m 5.11 and a half. I know geo makes a difference but as long as it isn’t strictly flat land geo I should be able to acclimate to my different styles no??

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5/16/2020 11:54 AM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

I know their 41-thermal is state of the art. Plus idk if I want to wait 12 weeks. Only down side is the biggest top tube length for the Sunday is 21.25 I think. And estimated average top tube length for me is 22.. I’m 5.11 and a half. I know geo makes a difference but as long as it isn’t strictly flat land geo I should be able to acclimate to my different styles no??

22" is definitely too big for you. There are hardly any 22" frames on the market to begin with. I'm 6'-1" and 21" is good for me, but 21.25" would also be comfortable. The Soundwave has pretty good geometry for all around riding.

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5/16/2020 12:47 PM

Xxohioanxx wrote:

The Sunday has a much stronger and more durable design and similar quality of manufacturing. Laird is a good welder but good welds don't make up for a subpar design. Since you're worried about warranty, Sunday will be much better as well.

rainescustoms99 wrote:

I know their 41-thermal is state of the art. Plus idk if I want to wait 12 weeks. Only down side is the biggest top tube length for the Sunday is 21.25 I think. And estimated average top tube length for me is 22.. I’m 5.11 and a half. I know geo makes a difference but as long as it isn’t strictly flat land geo I should be able to acclimate to my different styles no??

Xxohioanxx wrote:

22" is definitely too big for you. There are hardly any 22" frames on the market to begin with. I'm 6'-1" and 21" is good for me, but 21.25" would also be comfortable. The Soundwave has pretty good geometry for all around riding.

Good info thanks my guy

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5/16/2020 2:54 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

Integrated races have nothing to do with the frame. That's a fork feature

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5/16/2020 3:15 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

HtownGetDown wrote:

Integrated races have nothing to do with the frame. That's a fork feature

Okay cool... i also just noticed a bulge in the down tube right behind the welds for the top tube or whatever. Doesn’t seem normal

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5/16/2020 3:15 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

HtownGetDown wrote:

Integrated races have nothing to do with the frame. That's a fork feature

rainescustoms99 wrote:

Okay cool... i also just noticed a bulge in the down tube right behind the welds for the top tube or whatever. Doesn’t seem normal

Sorry steer tube*

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5/16/2020 3:53 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

Sorry steer tube*

Head tube.

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5/16/2020 5:37 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

Rizok_Dtdis wrote:

Ha bro are you getting play after a while once you tightened your headset?

Yes after I tighten the compression cap and stem bolts after a while it seems like it comes back. At first I thought it was normal. Now it seems like every time I go to pick up the bike it’s “loose” again. I know it could be the bearings but I make sure not to over tighten. At this point I know my frame is messed up. I hope the forks are good because I don’t want to have to warranty them out and wait for a new frame lol

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5/17/2020 3:12 AM

I hate this whole trend of people feeling they are under 6ft and need a 21.25 or bigger.

I’m 5’10 and ride a 20.7 currently. I actually prefer 20.4

The only thing with laird is he can’t source chromoly tubing at the moment so he will be out for a little bit.

But pick a frame in your budget. I’d suggest a 20.75-21” toptube.

But it also depends on your riding. I’m a park rat so my geo fits that style.

What kind of riding do you do? What tricks do you do. Certain geometry makes certain tricks easier

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5/17/2020 4:13 AM

Mulletsnax wrote:

I hate this whole trend of people feeling they are under 6ft and need a 21.25 or bigger.

I’m 5’10 and ride a 20.7 currently. I actually prefer 20.4

The only thing with laird is he can’t source chromoly tubing at the moment so he will be out for a little bit.

But pick a frame in your budget. I’d suggest a 20.75-21” toptube.

But it also depends on your riding. I’m a park rat so my geo fits that style.

What kind of riding do you do? What tricks do you do. Certain geometry makes certain tricks easier

I googled what size bmx should I get it asked for my height and all that and gave me estimated geo hahaha. I don’t know much about what different geo does other than shorter chain stay means easier mannies and 32 forks are more stable for jumps than 28

I like a lot of park riding like vert, transfers etc. some parks are basically street style parks. I do hit street spots occasionally with my friends but mostly park.. I have been helping/riding my local dirt jump spot and the gaps and lips are huge..

As far as tricks, I just learned tuck no handers before rona and haven’t found a good spot to throw them since. So I’ll probably have to learn again.learning 360’s but not there yet. Want to eventually try a down whip and or tail whip. I’ve tried some weak table tops. T bogs x ups and turn downs. But none of those look clean and my tables are just sad atm

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5/17/2020 4:13 AM

What does a shorter or longer top tube affect?

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5/18/2020 5:53 AM
Edited Date/Time: 5/18/2020 5:59 AM

HtownGetDown wrote:

Integrated races have nothing to do with the frame. That's a fork feature

An integrated head tube actually has races integrated as well, as part of the machining of the headtube.

Back in the day it was press in cups.



To the OP, any play in your headset can cause damage to the parts in your headset, your frame and your fork. You could source a new headset and it likely could clear up any issues assuming you have not ovalized your headtube. If the bike on your profile is the one you are talking about, this *should* clear most of your troubles up and they are like 20-30 bucks.

I would pop your heaset/fork out and inspect everything, replace what is damaged. Could be as simple as a cracked bearing cup, or bearings damaged or even just in upsidedown.

If you snag up a frame, I would hold off on riding until it is built up-source one online/locally and it might be a week or so?

If you decide on Laird, get a headset for your current rig to avoid trashing your fork over the next few months. If you ride knowing your stuff is loose and and trash the fork, brands can deny a warranty claim being that it is due to negligence-they might even ask you to send it in. They might not, but they can. Unfortunately a lifetime warranty doesn't mean they replace it no matter what happens, it usually means they will if it is a defect/snaps, but if say your bearings dented and ground out a spot on the fork, they likely would say "sorry man, that was ridden with a pretty big issue for a while. We will discount a new one at most". Then you will need another fork.

You will need a headset with whatever new frame you get to match up anyway-might be a better route.

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5/18/2020 9:22 PM

dave lawrence wrote:

An integrated head tube actually has races integrated as well, as part of the machining of the headtube.

Back in the day it was press in cups.



To the OP, any play in your headset can cause damage to the parts in your headset, your frame and your fork. You could source a new headset and it likely could clear up any issues assuming you have not ovalized your headtube. If the bike on your profile is the one you are talking about, this *should* clear most of your troubles up and they are like 20-30 bucks.

I would pop your heaset/fork out and inspect everything, replace what is damaged. Could be as simple as a cracked bearing cup, or bearings damaged or even just in upsidedown.

If you snag up a frame, I would hold off on riding until it is built up-source one online/locally and it might be a week or so?

If you decide on Laird, get a headset for your current rig to avoid trashing your fork over the next few months. If you ride knowing your stuff is loose and and trash the fork, brands can deny a warranty claim being that it is due to negligence-they might even ask you to send it in. They might not, but they can. Unfortunately a lifetime warranty doesn't mean they replace it no matter what happens, it usually means they will if it is a defect/snaps, but if say your bearings dented and ground out a spot on the fork, they likely would say "sorry man, that was ridden with a pretty big issue for a while. We will discount a new one at most". Then you will need another fork.

You will need a headset with whatever new frame you get to match up anyway-might be a better route.

Bearing seat =/= bearing race, but go off sweetheart

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5/18/2020 9:47 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

HtownGetDown wrote:

Integrated races have nothing to do with the frame. That's a fork feature

dave lawrence wrote:

An integrated head tube actually has races integrated as well, as part of the machining of the headtube.

Back in the day it was press in cups.



To the OP, any play in your headset can cause damage to the parts in your headset, your frame and your fork. You could source a new headset and it likely could clear up any issues assuming you have not ovalized your headtube. If the bike on your profile is the one you are talking about, this *should* clear most of your troubles up and they are like 20-30 bucks.

I would pop your heaset/fork out and inspect everything, replace what is damaged. Could be as simple as a cracked bearing cup, or bearings damaged or even just in upsidedown.

If you snag up a frame, I would hold off on riding until it is built up-source one online/locally and it might be a week or so?

If you decide on Laird, get a headset for your current rig to avoid trashing your fork over the next few months. If you ride knowing your stuff is loose and and trash the fork, brands can deny a warranty claim being that it is due to negligence-they might even ask you to send it in. They might not, but they can. Unfortunately a lifetime warranty doesn't mean they replace it no matter what happens, it usually means they will if it is a defect/snaps, but if say your bearings dented and ground out a spot on the fork, they likely would say "sorry man, that was ridden with a pretty big issue for a while. We will discount a new one at most". Then you will need another fork.

You will need a headset with whatever new frame you get to match up anyway-might be a better route.

This exactly how it works

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5/19/2020 4:36 AM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

So it’s not bad enough to stop me from riding, I’m not sure what kinds of damage I can cause from riding anyway but this is what is going on. Brand new forks but I think it’s called the steer tube or top tube on the frame a friend of mine said it’s probably oblonged like not circular anymore. Because with the step and compression nut properly torqued I still get some back and forth play when my wheel is turned 90•... that being said the only frame I have in mind is a Sunday, some of you know how I feel about their products. However my riding buddy is telling me to get a complete fit for 500. Idc about dropping 400 on a frame if I know it will be the last time I buy one. Any recommendations will be taken into concise ration. I for sure want integrated races or whatever for the bearings

HtownGetDown wrote:

Integrated races have nothing to do with the frame. That's a fork feature

dave lawrence wrote:

An integrated head tube actually has races integrated as well, as part of the machining of the headtube.

Back in the day it was press in cups.



To the OP, any play in your headset can cause damage to the parts in your headset, your frame and your fork. You could source a new headset and it likely could clear up any issues assuming you have not ovalized your headtube. If the bike on your profile is the one you are talking about, this *should* clear most of your troubles up and they are like 20-30 bucks.

I would pop your heaset/fork out and inspect everything, replace what is damaged. Could be as simple as a cracked bearing cup, or bearings damaged or even just in upsidedown.

If you snag up a frame, I would hold off on riding until it is built up-source one online/locally and it might be a week or so?

If you decide on Laird, get a headset for your current rig to avoid trashing your fork over the next few months. If you ride knowing your stuff is loose and and trash the fork, brands can deny a warranty claim being that it is due to negligence-they might even ask you to send it in. They might not, but they can. Unfortunately a lifetime warranty doesn't mean they replace it no matter what happens, it usually means they will if it is a defect/snaps, but if say your bearings dented and ground out a spot on the fork, they likely would say "sorry man, that was ridden with a pretty big issue for a while. We will discount a new one at most". Then you will need another fork.

You will need a headset with whatever new frame you get to match up anyway-might be a better route.

The bike in the picture is the bike I’m talking about. I’m just leaving her parked for now and I’ll just dig the dirt jumps till my frame comes in. The head tube has to be ovalized given the buckles I noticed on the down tube and top tube. I just hope it’s not too late for my fork lol

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5/19/2020 4:36 AM

Photo
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5/19/2020 4:37 AM

You can’t really see the one in the top tube. But it’s just like the one in the down tube only smaller. I should have looked my bike over after I had that big crash lol oh well lesson learned. I’m praying the fork is good now

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5/19/2020 6:31 AM

I would ditch that frame asap if you plan on doing anything other than cruising around.


Also, are you sure that's a stolen? The lack of gussets and the subpar welds tell me that it's a much lower quality frame

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