Fly Manual brakes and dual cable gyro setup

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4/9/2014 8:36 AM

I'm currently running fly manual brakes with a straight cable but i've been thinking about converting to a dual cable gyro setup lately. however, here's my problem

the ends of the brake arms look like this
Photo

as opposed to this
Photo

i was planning on running the snafu dual lower cables but the cable knarps look like this (all other cable knarps pretty much look like this as well, not just snafu)
Photo

"normal" knarps will obviously not fit the ends of the brake arms so do you guys think it can be done somehow? if so, how? or am i pretty much shit outta luck here? help please. lol

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You're never too old to have fun.

Bike
Summer riding

4/9/2014 10:06 AM

Run the cable backwards (knob in the brake, knarp in the detangler- may require grinding the knarp to size)
Or
Run it like normal and wrap a piece of tape around the knarp and U-brake so it doesn't pop out. The knarp obviously wont sit IN the seat, but it will work aslong as something (piece of tape) holds it in place.

If you get a detangler like the OLD Odyssey GTX, 34R Orto, or the new Shadow, you can just run the cables backwards and use the integrated knarps on the detangler. This would be your best/most effective option. Goodluck!

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4/9/2014 11:06 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Run the cable backwards (knob in the brake, knarp in the detangler- may require grinding the knarp to size)
Or
Run it like ...more

thanks! some pretty good ideas. im gonna look into it some more

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You're never too old to have fun.

Bike
Summer riding

4/10/2014 2:40 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/10/2014 2:40 AM

Use a spoke nipple, drill the nipple out the same diameter of the cable which is usually 1.5mm then cut the nipple right down you can use either part of the nipple it really dosn't matter then have the nipple inserted into the brake arm which will hold the cable in place and use the cable knarp problem solved and you don't need to modify the brake arms, I've used this on my Classico's.

If you need any more help let me know and I'll make a diagram/ snap shot pictures for you and post them on here.

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4/10/2014 8:28 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/10/2014 8:28 AM

Cellmember wrote:

Use a spoke nipple, drill the nipple out the same diameter of the cable which is usually 1.5mm then cut the nipple right down ...more

Thanks a lot man! yeh some pics would be great

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You're never too old to have fun.

Bike
Summer riding

4/10/2014 5:05 PM
Edited Date/Time: 4/10/2014 5:08 PM

Here's a how to, let me know how you go with it, hope it helps ! smile

I used my phone camera which dosn't have the best quality so sorry about the shitty pictures.

Tools you will need

2mm drill bit for metal
Cordless or corded drill
pliers/clamps
angle grinder with 1mm blade or a hacksaw/ use a hacksaw if your not experienced with power tools, it'll take a little longer but it will be safer.

NOTE: Always use ear and eye protection if using power tools.

1: Get a nipple can be either brass or alloy, for this I'm using alloy. Get your pliers and attach them to the nipples head and or body where the spoke key sits be sure not to apply to much force as you dont want to crush the nipple you want just enough so its snug and wont move anywhere when drilling and cutting.

[LINK TO IMAGE]

2: Get your drill and attach the drill bit and then use it to drill out the centre of the nipple where the spoke sits this will allow the cable to move freely in the nipple and wont bind up.

[LINK TO IMAGE][LINK TO IMAGE]

3: Using your pliers, clamp down the nipple and cut the nipple roughly in the middle using the grinder or hack saw.

[LINK TO IMAGE][LINK TO IMAGE]

4: Once you've completed step 3 it should look something like this

[LINK TO IMAGE]

5: Now you can use either the nipple head or nipple body to get your cables set up, in this case I'm using the nipple head and what you want to do is run the cut side facing your head tube so the nipple head rest's on the brake arm and the rest of the nipple is inside the brake arm, then use your cable knarp and tighten down and you're done, your cable ends with be fixed and will not fall out, it should look like this when finished.

[LINK TO IMAGE][LINK TO IMAGE][LINK TO IMAGE][LINK TO IMAGE]
[LINK TO IMAGE][LINK TO IMAGE]

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4/10/2014 5:44 PM

oh wow thats an awesome idea. will do that when i get my gyro setup soon.

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You're never too old to have fun.

Bike
Summer riding

4/11/2014 9:17 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Run the cable backwards (knob in the brake, knarp in the detangler- may require grinding the knarp to size)
Or
Run it like ...more

Bottom of the Old GTX doesn't run knarps there. They are for the top cable only.

But running the cable knarps that come with it on the Gyro side should work OK.

Otherwise look into a fresh set of stoppers.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

4/11/2014 11:13 AM

dave lawrence wrote:

Bottom of the Old GTX doesn't run knarps there. They are for the top cable only.

But running the cable knarps that come with ...more

is there enough room on the bottom of the gyro to run knarps? looks like that'd be cutting it pretty close to me

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You're never too old to have fun.

Bike
Summer riding

4/11/2014 12:11 PM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Run the cable backwards (knob in the brake, knarp in the detangler- may require grinding the knarp to size)
Or
Run it like ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

Bottom of the Old GTX doesn't run knarps there. They are for the top cable only.

But running the cable knarps that come with ...more

tr1x wrote:

is there enough room on the bottom of the gyro to run knarps? looks like that'd be cutting it pretty close to me

Smaller ones like the Odyssey Knarps that have a hex shaped outside yea, the normal brake arm ones might not fit.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura