Has My Bike Been Holding Me Back? LONG READ!!

Didn't you make a thread on this already?......
wait sorry that one was about bars.

Yeah, I'd buy a newer, more up to date ride. I'm not going to say the bike is holding you back, not by itself. You have more to do with that... but that ride definitely has it's downsides imo.

yeah, originally I was posting this in that thread, but as I re-read it, realized it was kinda off TOPIC as that thread was just me asking about bars.. so I put it in here!

Yeah no doubt I will be getting a new bike one day soon..

Just thought it was crazy that on these "new" bikes I can quickly get my game on but not so on my original older bikes..


oNe

To be honest you should theoretically be able to do everything on your current bike that you could on that newer bike, only difference is gonna be how long of a session you can have due to fitness levels and how sore you'll be the next day.

Things might be easier on a lighter bike I guess but I think its more a mindfuck thing when you say you can't manual as long or perform the same way, people used to shred bikes like yours back in the day with no worries, maybe the geo was just better suited for you on that newer bike, you should find out the dimensions of it for when you buy a new one.

Don't let the bike your riding atm discourage you tho, work with what you got till you get a new one, which I would highly recommend you do.

Have fun, good luck.

If you are planning on getting a new bike soon, and don't have much money, look into one of these.Mode 720
mode 720
Mode 900

Maybe the geo is fucking shit. That might be the problem.

T-rider wrote:

Maybe the geo is fucking shit. That might be the problem.

T-rider wrote:

Maybe the geo is fucking shit. That might be the problem.

...more

Probably. It's over a decade old lol.

This is an option too.
Mode 900

Bigger parts are generally more relaxed and comfortable, and parts have been getting bigger over the years. Hell I remember when I got made fun of for riding 8.25s because they were HUGE. Now I get made fun of for them because theyre too small! This explains the comfort portion of why the newer bike felt better, taller bars, longer frame, bigger tires, etc. It could have also had a shorter rear end with makes manuals and hops way easier.
Then ofcourse im sure it was lighter. Rotational weight (wheels) makes a HUGE difference. I just dropped a little over a pound of rotational weight with new rims and tires. Although its only one pound, it feels like 5+! I would seriously add an extra 3lbs to my frame just to drop 1lb of rotational weight, it makes much more of a difference.
As mentioned above, a Mongoose Mode 900 is a GREAT modern bike, infact probably the best available for below $500. If you have a bigger budget, then there is many other options, but be warned- it gets very expensive !

BTW, What do you ride?

I rode a lot in those days and my bike definitely held me back. I had a 1999 Haro Shredder and I seem to remember it weighing 44-45 lbs (and in 1999 I weighed about 95 lbs) now the average weight is in the low 20's? That's a HUGE difference and contributing factor.

Maybe it is holding you back. My first bike was a Mongoose R10 and all I learned was bunnyhops and partial 180s. Once I got my Fit I improved a lot more.

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Bigger parts are generally more relaxed and comfortable, and parts have been getting bigger over the years. Hell I remember ...more

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Bigger parts are generally more relaxed and comfortable, and parts have been getting bigger over the years. Hell I remember when I got made fun of for riding 8.25s because they were HUGE. Now I get made fun of for them because theyre too small! This explains the comfort portion of why the newer bike felt better, taller bars, longer frame, bigger tires, etc. It could have also had a shorter rear end with makes manuals and hops way easier.
Then ofcourse im sure it was lighter. Rotational weight (wheels) makes a HUGE difference. I just dropped a little over a pound of rotational weight with new rims and tires. Although its only one pound, it feels like 5+! I would seriously add an extra 3lbs to my frame just to drop 1lb of rotational weight, it makes much more of a difference.
As mentioned above, a Mongoose Mode 900 is a GREAT modern bike, infact probably the best available for below $500. If you have a bigger budget, then there is many other options, but be warned- it gets very expensive !

...more

haha, good read man, thanks for that in-depth reply!!

MONEY IS NO OBJECT, haha don't get it twisted, I aint' rich by any means.. but I am older and have a phat a$$ job now for the 1st time in my LIFE!!!

BUT really, I look at a new bike as an investment, NOT only for the bike itself but what it will give me.. NOT only will it help me get back in shape, i.e. make me healthier BUT just the joy and satisfaction that riding gives.. PRICELESS YO!!

At the same time, I ain't trying to blow $$ just for the sake of blowing $$.. I kinda set my bar at $500 but ay, you know its some flexibility in there!!

5'8" 200LBs and dropping... mainly street riding.. and by that I mean manual'ing, ledge grinding, and bunny hopping, but would love to get into barspin's, and 180's/360's NEXT!!!

95% street, 4% Park, 1% DIRT..


Have AT it peeps!


oNe

P.S. and I have some "rRARE" Primo Powerbytes from like 1999 brand new in the box if that matters, FSA PIG headset as well, Primo Tenderizers pedals, Primo STIFFIES, and a Standard fork...

I believe the bikes that you where riding in your youth had horrid geo. God I know my ones did.

Newer bikes tend to have better geo's so it makes riding easier.

As a few people have mentioned, the geometry might be playing a big part in it too.

I also say its most likely the geometry of the bikes and it doesn't matter whether its a newer bike or an older bike, the geometry is a big part of riding. Hence why different bikes each have their pros and cons. I had a brand new 2009 Haro Intro Lite Low Low, it was a trail bike. I rode it on street and park and it was hard for me to get 360's down. I thought i just sucked. I tried a fit homan, was able to do them right away.

Is recommend you a fit benny l signatura bike, using the vitalboard in albes. But if you have money enought you could buy a nice custom with a fit WiFi (210$) and the vitalboard code in albes for 730$.

T-Rider, thanks for that bike build up post.. came in useful!

Also while researching the parts in your list, I came across a COMPLETE bike..

$750 for a something called a Colony - The Living (2012 model),

What do think?


Also everyone keeps saying the GEO.. I am guessing the GEO = bike geometry right?

So if the GEO was messed up on my old bike.. is there a way I could have fixed it? NEY, can fix it?


oNe

I can def see how a huge bulky heavy as fuck and probably garbage geo bike could hold you back... They did their part in the past but just aren't up to today's standards that's why no one rides those anymore.... Go get a mongoose mode 900, start doing better tricks and enjoying biking again... Never look back

It is not the bike, but it is yourself not being able to handle such a bike. Bikes back then, were in simple terms, STUPID. They made them heavy on purpose with no real thought into it. I started on a Haro, VERY similar to that, except mine was the Nyquist Version. Still have most of those parts. haha Yes, the things would last, but they were not fun to ride. Or atleast as fun as the newer ones are.

I'd say that the newer bikes are definitely better. And If you are heavy, be very sure to get strong parts, no light park crap. Get a Bone Deth or a Sunday frame, as they are the strongest on the market. Get good hubs and nice thick tires. MTTs would be a great choice. Thunderbolt Odyssey Cranks, or Eclat Tibias would be smart. And a strong chain.

Good Luck dude! Glad to hear you are getting back into it! Just remember, when stuff gets hard, try riding something else for a bit. it really helps.

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit BMX build and trying to 3 was like trying to 540 flat.

isnowyaznV2 wrote:

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit ...more

isnowyaznV2 wrote:

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit BMX build and trying to 3 was like trying to 540 flat.

...more

Muscle & being comfortable with your bike helps a lot.



Someone correct me if I'm wrong (and add in more specific details please) but wasn't there some dude on Props/Road Fools or something, who rode a frame that was heavy as fuck & he just kept rewelding it as it would break, so it got heavier & heavier as it went?

I'll do a bit of Googling in a bit but I remember it being pretty interesting.

Phabeon wrote:

T-Rider, thanks for that bike build up post.. came in useful!

Also while researching the parts in your list, I came across a ...more

Phabeon wrote:

T-Rider, thanks for that bike build up post.. came in useful!

Also while researching the parts in your list, I came across a COMPLETE bike..

$750 for a something called a Colony - The Living (2012 model),

What do think?


Also everyone keeps saying the GEO.. I am guessing the GEO = bike geometry right?

So if the GEO was messed up on my old bike.. is there a way I could have fixed it? NEY, can fix it?


oNe

...more

No problem man. That bike there is good, but a custom, evento if it has the budget wheels is better id you ask me. First i want to know if you are keeping bmx for a while, cause if you are, a custom is worth, but if you arent its not.

isnowyaznV2 wrote:

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit ...more

isnowyaznV2 wrote:

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit BMX build and trying to 3 was like trying to 540 flat.

...more

sundaybmxRR wrote:

Muscle & being comfortable with your bike helps a lot.



Someone correct me if I'm wrong (and add in more specific ...more

sundaybmxRR wrote:

Muscle & being comfortable with your bike helps a lot.



Someone correct me if I'm wrong (and add in more specific details please) but wasn't there some dude on Props/Road Fools or something, who rode a frame that was heavy as fuck & he just kept rewelding it as it would break, so it got heavier & heavier as it went?

I'll do a bit of Googling in a bit but I remember it being pretty interesting.

...more

Daryl Nau

My dudes.. your NOT gonna believe this!!

I was able to pick up a 2012 Kink Gap for $100 yesterday!! FUDGE I am so hype right now, still can't believe it!!! The kid wanted $200 but ended up letting it go for a Benjamin!!
[LINK TO IMAGE]




Bike is lighter than a mugg.. I need brakes tho haha, or Im'a get KILLED!!

Kid forgot the innertube so just copped one at Target and threw it on. Already ton's better than my Haro., some getting used to but I'm really loving it already!!


Some quick Observation's and questions..

1. Not a wrench but willing to give it a go.. What ALL SHOULD i do to get this bike in Tune for me to ride it heavy?

2. What do I need to get some brakes on this BIA? probably just a back break..

3. Trying to raise the seat cuz the kid had it all the way DOWN..not raised at all!!! What does the MIN signify on the seat post, I tried raising it but NOT understanding the MIN part?

4. Whats up with this constant clickety sound, is that normal? I'm used to bikes making that sound when back pedaling on a free wheel bikes back in the day but this bike just has this constant clickety, brrrrrppp sound, going forwards or backwards? Its kind cooL to be honest but was curious about it..

5. Not used to 2pc bars MUCH less these modern/new wide as h*LL bars, but whats the general consensus on position for us newbies starting out.. i.e. whats easier for newbs, the more forward the bar or the more back it is?

6. Anything else?

I mean to get back into the scene on a modern bike, I don't think I could have done better than ONLY having to spend $100 on it.. RIGHT?

Have at it gents!!

oNe

Good deal man.

Not bad at all for only $100, it should last you until you need to upgrade some things

1. Not a wrench but willing to give it a go.. What ALL SHOULD i do to get this bike in Tune for me to ride it heavy?
Make sure the chain is tight, but not too tight, snug all the nuts/bolts up, pump the tires up to the recommended PSI, make sure the headset is tight but spins freely, same with the BB, and I'm sure a few other things I'm forgetting at the moment.

2. What do I need to get some brakes on this BIA? probably just a back break..
Look into the Odyssey Springfield brake kit, real cheap & comes with everything you need to put brakes on. You'll likely have to trim the cable housing & cable itself though.

3. Trying to raise the seat cuz the kid had it all the way DOWN..not raised at all!!! What does the MIN signify on the seat post, I tried raising it but NOT understanding the MIN part?
The "min" means the minimum insertion it should be, meaning if you see the line sticking out, you have it up too far. The line should be hidden in the seat tube

4. Whats up with this constant clickety sound, is that normal? I'm used to bikes making that sound when back pedaling on a free wheel bikes back in the day but this bike just has this constant clickety, brrrrrppp sound, going forwards or backwards? Its kind cooL to be honest but was curious about it..
is it the hub making the noise or something else? cassette hubs will make a clicking noise similar to freewheel hubs, but if it sounds abnormal then it needs looked into

5. Not used to 2pc bars MUCH less these modern/new wide as h*LL bars, but whats the general consensus on position for us newbies starting out.. i.e. whats easier for newbs, the more forward the bar or the more back it is?
I've always ridden my bars parallel with my forks, a lot of people do as well, but some cock the bars forward slightly for more room. That will be up to you to decide since it's a comfort thing.

6. Anything else?
Keep an eye on things as you ride it, things will loosen up overtime especially the spokes, it's not the part's fault, it's just that things will wear in & need tightening up such as the spokes wearing into the hub, thus needing tightened up. Just keep an eye on things & make sure things stay tight. The quicker you catch it, the better chance it won't damage the part in the long run.

bike is huge factor.

my previous bike was a WTP Versus 2012. changed to haro sd v2 and wtp mad max bar, now lifting the rear seems so easy.

congrats on your purchase. when you have the money, I think you will love maxxis grifter 2.1 tyres. also, do try other rider's bars, you may never know you found the one bar that is the perfect match with your kink

I had a problem hopping my haro frame with few bars, until I tested with the mad max bar. bloody huge difference

zzzxtreme wrote:

bike is huge factor.

my previous bike was a WTP Versus 2012. changed to haro sd v2 and wtp mad max bar, now lifting the rear ...more

zzzxtreme wrote:

bike is huge factor.

my previous bike was a WTP Versus 2012. changed to haro sd v2 and wtp mad max bar, now lifting the rear seems so easy.

congrats on your purchase. when you have the money, I think you will love maxxis grifter 2.1 tyres. also, do try other rider's bars, you may never know you found the one bar that is the perfect match with your kink

I had a problem hopping my haro frame with few bars, until I tested with the mad max bar. bloody huge difference

...more

WHen you find your right geo, you feel like a god.

isnowyaznV2 wrote:

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit ...more

isnowyaznV2 wrote:

I really don't understand how people were able to rail hop with 35+ lb bikes.. I mean, I've ridden a 30lb bike, my first legit BMX build and trying to 3 was like trying to 540 flat.

...more

sundaybmxRR wrote:

Muscle & being comfortable with your bike helps a lot.



Someone correct me if I'm wrong (and add in more specific ...more

sundaybmxRR wrote:

Muscle & being comfortable with your bike helps a lot.



Someone correct me if I'm wrong (and add in more specific details please) but wasn't there some dude on Props/Road Fools or something, who rode a frame that was heavy as fuck & he just kept rewelding it as it would break, so it got heavier & heavier as it went?

I'll do a bit of Googling in a bit but I remember it being pretty interesting.

...more

He built his own frames.

50 lbs and bar height hops.

But yea, some of it is weight and some is geometry.