Homemade parts & modifications!

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11/18/2015 2:15 AM

Yo, I know there have been topics for this, but I don't want to dig up 2 years old stuff. So I made a new topic...


- New threads for pegs. My currently in use old alloy pegs threads were stripped & I didn't have a socket at that time. I drilled a 15mm diameter hole inside the peg & pressed a nut into it. Now to tighten my rear wheel I have to roll the pegs.

- Spacer for 14mm dropout. I was putting together my old bike (trek from last century) I realized fork dropouts were 14mm & axle was 10mm. I took old copper wire, cut it & shaped it round.

- Headset spacer. This was the same bike as these last 2 were about. I used some random bearings as spacers for headset.

- Tried to make cassette sound with cable ties. Failed.

- Put a cable tie between seat post & frame as the post's diameter was too small.

There are more but I can't remember..

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11/18/2015 3:58 AM

The "adapter" for the forks is a terrible idea. It's gonna crush. And screw on pegs are even worse

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I'm on the vital legit list!

11/18/2015 5:48 AM

tomdon wrote:

The "adapter" for the forks is a terrible idea. It's gonna crush. And screw on pegs are even worse

I agree that sounds flat out dangerous.

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11/18/2015 5:55 AM

Photo

They aren't that bad actually.
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11/18/2015 6:27 AM
Edited Date/Time: 11/18/2015 6:28 AM

I did a 9 inch bolt to replace a star nut setup

I run cable housing on my dual lowers around my seat tube to cross them behind the seat tube for better brake actuation and have a "bracket" made from zipties to hold it in place

I have made "hub guards" out of 1/4 thick flat metal drilled for the axle and bent 45 degrees under the dropout

I made "chain tensioners" out of huge thick washers that I cut a notch into and placed the bent tab in front of the axle

Rigged up cassette with wiring because the spring broke for the pawls

Rigged freecoaster with spoke twisted into a spring to make it engage

Driver bearings for KHE coaster drivers are 15mm ID, and are like 10-15 bucks each, I got a standard size locally for 5 each and used a thin strip of pop can and clear tape to fill the spacing to save around 20 bucks.

Used PVC to fill space on a smaller diameter seat tube

Duct Tape for seat repair and for grips at one point (sucks)

Electrical tape for rim strips. I haven't bought rim strips in years.

Dollar bill and soda case cardboard as a tire boot (temp repair for hole in sidewall to prevent tube from coming out)

Eletrical tape and duct tape for tire boots

Soda can on my tire for sweet dirt bike sounds

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

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11/18/2015 7:17 AM

I used rubber bands to replace a broken cassette spring. It worked a little bit.

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11/18/2015 8:20 AM

Surely this thread should be called "moody bodges you should never try"?

There's so many less shitty ways around pretty much all of these issues.
The only thing I've done anywhere near as bad as these is use a front axle for a super pro (suzue) sealed hub for a rear super pro and added spacers to pack out the difference on the inside

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11/18/2015 8:42 AM

Going to grind the locking mechanism off my Odi lock on grips so they're just lock on rings so I can keep them on my bars and just use any grips with them

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11/18/2015 10:37 AM

i had problems with the wheel slipping on a customer's bike on the drive side, so i shoved a tiny 8mm nut between the axel and the front part of the dropout to basically slam the wheel up agasint the nut, worked like a charm.

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11/18/2015 10:45 AM

I used a broken spoke to replace the pin on my chain breaker.

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11/18/2015 11:37 AM

Mounted dual gyros higher up down tube, cut housing short to reduce friction, cut london mod to a straight angle to the brakes.

Photo

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11/18/2015 11:50 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

Surely this thread should be called "moody bodges you should never try"?

There's so many less shitty ways around pretty much ...more

Yea, and when you are a teenager with very limited tools, no money, and almost no access to shops etc, you make do. The bulk of this took place in my first 2-3 years riding, so we are talking 12-13 years ago. Nowadays on my bike there is only one "rigged" thing, and it is I used two small wires and a velcro strap to hold my front brake cable to my fork and off my tire, because ODYSSEY did NOT put a cable holder on it (poor design)

The tire boots are in a pinch to get back home, never lasted more than part of a day, EVERYONE should know how to do this when out riding and not carrying a spare TIRE.

Spoke Spring was due to there being all of MAYBE 2 freecoasters on the market at the time, and Odyssey was completely out and not getting more of the needed parts.

Hubguards didn't exist when I made the steel plate ones, despite dropouts getting smaller.

Driver bearings was because I could not justify 20 bucks MORE and a week or two to get them to fill 1 mm of space.

PVC as a seat tube shim was due to a lack of available shops, money etc, and I had the post laying around. Blame specialized for making a crap post with a weird size back in 2001.

Star nut was because I couldn't afford a fork, and star nuts popped out or shattered all the time. Worked better than anything out there at the time.

Chain tensioners were because real ones wouldn't fit my setup.

Short term "fix" to make my wheel work while I waited on a replacement by using the wire. No different than people using rubberbands in Eclat Blind Coaster.

Duct Tape to patch holes on my seat from crashes, and once for grips when I had zero dollars and nothing else.

Electrical tape for rim strips. I haven't bought rim strips in years. This is just simply better. Not all rim strips fit all rims. I had Animal ones, they didn't cover a lot of the smaller holes on the rim, causing flats.

Soda can on my tire for sweet dirt bike sounds-Come on this one is sweet.

I never said any of mine were good (aside from the brake cable crossing one) OR permanent, and I am FULLY aware that there are better ideas than what I did. Lack of money and tools make things a LOT harder to repair, and my want to ride and creativity to get the result I wanted outlasted my patience and wallet.

Enjoy your high horse though.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

11/18/2015 12:39 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

Surely this thread should be called "moody bodges you should never try"?

There's so many less shitty ways around pretty much ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

Yea, and when you are a teenager with very limited tools, no money, and almost no access to shops etc, you make do. The bulk ...more

Some of these are just blatant ignorance though. Like your driver bearings. All bearings are a standard sizes and available cheap from somewhere local. The PVC tube.... Why did you buy a "weird" sized post in the first place? Again, seat posts have always been standard sizes, you obviously just bought the wrong one. I won't go on, I'm too busy enjoying my highs horse. But I will say my post was mostly aimed at the original post, and people shouldn't think any of this is a good idea, they aren't mods, or home made parts. They're moody bodges.
If people would learn how to do things properly and not just hack things, their parts will last longer and not effect the lifespan of other parts.
I could quite easily pick massive holes in other posts, but seeing as you seem to think I was aiming my post solely at you I won't bother.

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11/18/2015 2:11 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

Some of these are just blatant ignorance though. Like your driver bearings. All bearings are a standard sizes and available ...more

Actually, the axle kit I got was for a KHE reverse freecoaster, and I used a 9t Geisha driver, and the inner diameter of the bearings for that axle are NOT standard bearings, they are proprietary to KHE (per an email back and forth with KHE at the time). I have a massive, nationally recognized local bearing shop that had NEVER seen that size and had no way to order any in the "standard as you call it" size. The inner diameter was one millimeter off from a standard size, which is what I chose to make work, since they saved me 20 bucks. No that you care, that wheel is still going perfectly well for it's 4th owner now, despite being something like 7 years old and having that bearing setup I put in. Good try though.

I didn't buy the weird size post, IT CAME STOCK on my bike at the time. Again, good try. Also keep in mind, NOW freestyle bikes are pretty much exclusively 25.4mm. Back in the late 90's/early 00's this was not the case, and you could find frames that used nearly every iteration of size, which is what caused the problem.

I never said these were things you "should do" or that are "proper ways to do things", so you can go ahead and stop putting words in my mouth/keyboard.

Call it what you will, but at least TRY to get your facts right before you try to speculate details about someone else.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

11/18/2015 2:52 PM

Please pick mine apart.

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11/18/2015 3:13 PM
Edited Date/Time: 11/18/2015 3:16 PM

You're right, I don't really care. It's not like I'm a qualified bike mechanic with over 10years experience in the industry, or studied engineering or anything .....
But I will say that there have always been many seat tube sizes. Way before you started riding. Yes, some companies in bmx used seat posts that weren't standard in bmx, but they're still standard in cycling.

As for the gyro brake set up. I'm not here to cause arguments or hurt feelings, but seeing as you asked. U brakes aren't designed to be pulled at the angle your cables are pulling them. The way you've set yours up is possibly the worst and least efficient way you could set one up. I will elaborate if you wish.


Again, back to my first post. I was merely trying to point out that kids could read this and think it's a genuine way to cut corners with bike maintenance.

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11/18/2015 3:17 PM

Lolol why are you getting so butthurt over other people's homemade innovations? Does it bother you THAT much over what other people did when they needed a quick fix and found a ghetto rigged temporary one that worked for them?

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11/18/2015 3:34 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

You're right, I don't really care. It's not like I'm a qualified bike mechanic with over 10years experience in the industry, ...more

I love when bike snobs come on here and shit on people with no good reason. Screw being polite. Let's be insulting to people for no good reason.

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11/18/2015 4:06 PM

Back to the original thread at hand... I've made the following (Probably more can't remember offhand at the moment)

-Bottle cap barends. No idea why I thought that would work haha. I took the wedge system from a broken plastic bar end and poked a hole in a bottle cap and made it into a bar end... Worked fine till I wrecked and my bike flew down the road.

-Some hard plastic shit I found and made into axle converters when I still had 14mm forks & was in the process of getting 3/8" ones.

-Plenty of times I've used axle nuts or random nuts as hardware for hubs that had the original hardware stripped.

-This might be the best one on this list, converted a 14mm Odyssey Hazard hub into 3/8" female using a female axle kit for another hub and a hacksaw. Worked very nice actually although I never rode it personally. Someone who rides around here still has it though I think.

-Broke my old seat before, but managed to extend its life a bit longer by jamming chain links into the cutout parts underneath the seat & gluing them into place so they wouldn't fall out. Surprisingly this worked for a little.

-Made my own wedge style pivotal seat post using a hacksaw & an old stem quill. Still using this one.

-Poked holes in my Odyssey Twisted pc pedals then screwed metal pins into the holes (& glued them for good measure) to extend their life when I grinded down all the pins to them and wanted them to grip still but didn't wanna buy new pedals yet.

-Soda can shims in between my bearing & hubshell when the bearing seat became stretched out.

-Various mods involving small rubber pieces behind the springs in the driver to make it louder (Yeah, I was that kid at one point) and/or doubling up the springs or using a small rubber band in there too.

-Small spacer in between the driver & hubshell to my Demolition Anorexia cassette (As suggested by another member on here many years ago) to fix the problem of that hub blowing out constantly. It actually worked so yay!

I'm sure there's more but I can't think of them offhand.


Don't tell grumpySteve I did all this, he might have a heart attack.

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11/18/2015 4:45 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

You're right, I don't really care. It's not like I'm a qualified bike mechanic with over 10years experience in the industry, ...more

Dude...10 years ago was 2005. Bmx bikes were already heading into the light and strong phase and away from the heavy and strong one. Everything was built heavy and a million times stronger than it EVER needed to be. So oversize seat posts were normal...same with seat clamps having 4 bolts! So keep flaunting your "qualified bike mechanic" and your studying of engineering (you probably took one engineering class)because frankly nobody gives a fuck. Just because something isn't out of a book on the "proper" way to fix the part doesn't mean it won't work. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do until you can properly fix it or replace it. Not all kids reading this are fortunate to be able to go to a bike shop and pay a dude to fix their bike or buy brand new stuff. So maybe they can get an idea to HELP them get through until they do get the opportunity to properly fix the situation. So pound sand with your by the fucking book attitude.

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11/18/2015 5:10 PM

JPond53 wrote:

Dude...10 years ago was 2005. Bmx bikes were already heading into the light and strong phase and away from the heavy and ...more

This! One of the things I like best about BMX is the feeling that all of this stuff, knowledge, is accessible & can be learned enough to work on yourself. My son's first bike, I spent lots of time trying to adjust a drivetrain that was beat, but after awhile I had an idea of what it really needed and a couple good dudes in a local shop helped me through piecing some things together and it works great.

You know what would happen if I went to a shop with an expensive road bike and said, hey, any chance I can use this hub shell, buy some bearings, but use this driver over here... Etc? They woulda been like sorry, that shit is too complicated for you, and by the way, it will be $100 to tear this apart to tell you we'd better just order you a new, pricey hub. :-)

You want to let people know if they're crossing an unwise line, but no attitude is necessary

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Frmrly BmxBos
Ref: Robinson79, aaron.samuel.green

11/18/2015 6:02 PM

Yeah well you shouldn't half ass things. If you don't know how to do something I personally think it's a good idea to have an expert do it instead. If you don't have parts maybe you ought to get some(used or new). My first comment was just my opinion and using some kind of a wire for a spacer seems dangerous and its liable to shift or change shape and he might lose the wheel. Hopefully I understood him correctly though. I'm not saying you can't find alternatives, but there comes a point where your just half assin things, like using gloss paint for three walls and flat for another just because you don't wanna go buy more paint. There are preferred methods and parts for a reason and there isn't some hoop companies want you to jump through, wether it's safety or productivity there are methods to the madness. I'm not saying you need to spend a billion dollars on tools and parts, but if your using a tool incorrectly or the incorrect tool for a job, I firmly believe the job wasn't done correctly, regardless of results, this goes back to the method to the madness. Same thing with parts but that another argument completely, and I've already mentioned alternatives. Frankly I take my bike to a shop when I need to, I did it with my tires just cause they were not comin off the rim willingly and I didn't want to chew them to shit fighting them. How easily they came off for tech at the shop, I don't know but I'm more than willing to pay 5$ in the hopes he's done it more than I have and has a method to the madness I didn't understand.

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11/18/2015 6:30 PM

xXZ4KOXx wrote:

Yeah well you shouldn't half ass things. If you don't know how to do something I personally think it's a good idea to have an ...more

As they say if you don't have time to do it right, better have time to do it again. There's dangerous, crap ideas, and there's things people do and they consistently work, and there's stuff ini between where it might be useful to say it kinda works, but don't bother cause time/cost etc = worth replacing/having repaired.

But it can't all be lumped together as "none of this is good", obv

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Frmrly BmxBos
Ref: Robinson79, aaron.samuel.green

11/18/2015 7:12 PM

Bicycles are fairly simple to work on...that being said if you can't strip your bike down and build it back up the way it was, you should PROBABLY not venture into rigging things for it to work...Just be safe! It's 2015 chances are if you don't know how to do something on your bike somebody has made a YouTube video for you to learn how lol.

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11/18/2015 10:48 PM

There's 2 ways of doing things. The correct way, and the wrong way. The vast majority of bike parts are pieces of metal constantly in contact with other pieces of metal. If something is bodged, those pieces of metal won't be coming into contact the way they're supposed to, so in the long run you won't be saving anything as the parts will wear each other out quicker.

The thing is, some of these posts are very innovative. My only issue is the posts that are just straight up moody.

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11/18/2015 11:01 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

There's 2 ways of doing things. The correct way, and the wrong way. The vast majority of bike parts are pieces of metal ...more

I think you're preaching to the choir here.

At what point did anyone in this thread state that any of it was a good idea? Nowhere. Everyone's just stating their homemade parts & modifications they've done before. Did it work at the time? If so, it was a homemade modification and therefore gets posted here.

Sorry we're not all mechanical engineers who should spend night & day for a modification to your pleasing that will do the job properly and instead we tried random things & rigged something up for the meantime not caring about long term effects at the moment. How dare we all not be super perfect! Shame on us.

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11/18/2015 11:03 PM

I've personally never made any mods or homemade parts. I've used makeshift parts, like using some wide spacers from the local hardware store as spindle spacers. One of my front and rear hubs have the hub shell stretched out from hammering out the bearings to replace them more than twice, and I was told by a lot of people to use the soda/aluminum can cutout shims. I was wondering how long the shims would actually last before the actual bearing would grind up the shim. And because you are making the shims to fit the bearings, could there be a possibility that the aluminum shims are strong enough to withhold the bearing's size along with it to stretch the hub shell even more?

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11/19/2015 8:44 AM

This whole thread is just hilarious

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If it ain't broke...

11/19/2015 9:29 AM

The "only 2 ways" comment is really incredibly arrogant and narrow minded, even for someone with an engineering background. Lighten up, dude. The world is full of imperfect solutions to problems that were too immediate to wait for an engineer's input. They may be far from ideal, but that doesn't stop them from working.

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11/19/2015 10:28 AM
Edited Date/Time: 11/19/2015 10:30 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

You're right, I don't really care. It's not like I'm a qualified bike mechanic with over 10years experience in the industry, ...more

Cool beans dude, I worked for one of the biggest Specialized dealers in the US with the most advanced training for shop employees in the states as a Service Manager and was flown to Specialized to go through their Tech suspension courses to be certified in repair on everything they offered, as well as certified to work on the most advanced electronic shifting systems, and I also have a degree in welding and Metal fabrication. Just because someone "studied something" doesn't mean they are knowledgeable on the subject.

Clearly you didn't read my full posts, because there was a lack of funds and access. Have you ever been to a small town with one bike shop run by an old guy who thinks a quill stem is the "one with the bolts on the side"? Or how about how the internet was pretty uncommon at the time, with the exception of schools and businesses? And how in that small town, a BMX magazine was hard to come by, and rarely had any info for mail order? So when it comes to that seat post issue, and basically no legitimate way to get one (again, no money, no shop easily accessible, no real internet options, no access to mail order companies, HOW WOULD YOU DO IT?

But you're right, it is clearly a requirement of every BMX rider out there to use thousands of dollars of machinery to create the "correct way" to repair an issue, or spend more money to buy replacement parts and have "qualified repair technicians" from local shops like yourself to replace them. If you have worked in a shop, there is absolutely NO WAY you have NOT rigged some sort of modded tool to remove a stuck part or to complete a repair.

Keep preaching your ways, and you ostracize yourself pretty fast being an asshole. Good for you that you feel these temp fixes were bad, I'm happy for you, but honestly you are being a snobby jackass who clearly feels the need to spout his "advanced knowledge".

Go ride you bike.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura