Homemade parts/modification

Ive modded my Federal v1 Freecoaster. The drive bearings got destroyed so i cut a (proper drive shim) in half and used a sprocket (hat/Instert) whatever its called over the top of the shim and wedged it in where the bearings ment to be. It acually works. (not for long i dont think)

Also used a seat clamp as a Headset spacer.

I built some low profile brake mounts.

I made a frankenhub using my old Kink Viridian axle, bolts, spacers & hardware & the bearings and shell of an old Odyssey Hazard front hub that was originally 14mm male/48h

The Kink hub was a hunk of a shit and the Odyssey was 14mm male which no one would buy, so I tried fitting the Kink axle in there and it didn't.. So I cut it down, and had to cut the internal spacer down some too, and it fit perfectly.








Also made another one similar to that using an old BSD axle & hardware with a random sealed 3/8" male axle front hub, but that one looks a lot better.





And the last think I can think of offhand is my seat post I currently still use that I modded to be a wedge using an old school stem quill and cutting the seat post at the right angle. I only did this to see if I could but ended up liking the look so I kept it. On my old KHE frame (Secondhand so no warranty anyway) I even cut down the seat tube so it looked super clean

I used to do freecoaster mods like nobody's business on my Odyssey Reloader hub. Shit was sick as fuck too.

Like the one guy said i made a bushing for it pretty much the same way with a poop ton of grease and a lot of fine tuning on the lock nut.

I did the little ACB bearing mod where you replace a spacer and put an unsealed bearing around the axle from a 3/8s rear hub so you can basically crank flip it and pedaling backwards is smoother. I tossed that idea after it broke once or twice. Was nice when it worked. If i got a better unsealed cage bearing it'd have been better.

I did so many different spring mods. The one that worked the best was the special one out of wind up toys. I found this little toy train and i cut the bits into like 5 inch pieces each and folded them over until they were like 2 inches long and then made them like this shaped \_/ but the middle was slightly bent up to sit on the axle better. They'd pop right in and lasted forever! I shouldn't have sold it. lol It was smoother than a KHE when it had all the mods in it. Bigger bearings and shit.

Other than that, i have my usual ghetto rigging. Like the thing i do so my drivetrain is smoother. I take this little rubber O ring and a spacer thats like a few MM bigger than the spindle on my Thunderbolts and after the sprocket is on i put it on and tighten it down. When it's tight it makes it so it spins better for stuff like crank flips, i'd imagine. It's mainly just better on the bearings and smoother. It also probably keeps the sprocket from fucking up or bending a certain way even though its an MDS with sandwich guards. Since it probably has a very slight amount of give it probably lets the sprocket be safe.

There are others i did. Like Stem rigs but they're not as interesting.

I've done a few things like this but the only one that comes to mind right now is using a rubber band to replace my drivers c-clip.

I covered my seat in lather :/

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also gets me stronger pull on the brakes by pulling with the pivot/rotation of the brake arms on their mounts.

Outside of that, I laced 48h hubs to 36h rims, I made a hubguard out of a thin piece of steel, I rigged up a coaster with internals from like 4 different ones, made springs for a reloader back in the day, the list goes on.

dave lawrence wrote:

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also gets me stronger pull on the brakes by pulling with the pivot/rotation of the brake arms on their mounts.

Outside of that, I laced 48h hubs to 36h rims, I made a hubguard out of a thin piece of steel, I rigged up a coaster with internals from like 4 different ones, made springs for a reloader back in the day, the list goes on.

...more

How was the lacing? The wheel was strong?

dave lawrence wrote:

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also gets me stronger pull on the brakes by pulling with the pivot/rotation of the brake arms on their mounts.

Outside of that, I laced 48h hubs to 36h rims, I made a hubguard out of a thin piece of steel, I rigged up a coaster with internals from like 4 different ones, made springs for a reloader back in the day, the list goes on.

...more

funfrontbrake wrote:

How was the lacing? The wheel was strong?

funfrontbrake wrote:

How was the lacing? The wheel was strong?

...more

It held up well (I think I have photos on my profile on here). It was just slapped together haha. Never really came out of true or anything.

dave lawrence wrote:

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

My brake cables cross behind my seattube and run through housing so they don't damage the frame and they pull smoother. Also gets me stronger pull on the brakes by pulling with the pivot/rotation of the brake arms on their mounts.

Outside of that, I laced 48h hubs to 36h rims, I made a hubguard out of a thin piece of steel, I rigged up a coaster with internals from like 4 different ones, made springs for a reloader back in the day, the list goes on.

...more

funfrontbrake wrote:

How was the lacing? The wheel was strong?

funfrontbrake wrote:

How was the lacing? The wheel was strong?

...more

dave lawrence wrote:

It held up well (I think I have photos on my profile on here). It was just slapped together haha. Never really came out of ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

It held up well (I think I have photos on my profile on here). It was just slapped together haha. Never really came out of true or anything.

...more

I kinda always wanted to lace some 48h rims to 36h hubs

I did it with random spokes I had laying around and just kinda made it work. There is an actual pattern to lace it, something like 3 on, skip a hole, 4 on skip a hole. It is very much doable. I actually confused the Training Department head to the bike shop I worked at, and he was a mechanic who worked with racers and was all over the country for teams like Shimano and Cannondale (For road and MT.

Still skeptical about the strenght/durability/tuning of that kind of setup.

If so i would lace a set of mocha ribcages

funfrontbrake wrote:

Still skeptical about the strenght/durability/tuning of that kind of setup.

If so i would lace a set of mocha ribcages

funfrontbrake wrote:

Still skeptical about the strenght/durability/tuning of that kind of setup.

If so i would lace a set of mocha ribcages

...more

The logic I used was that the rim had all holes covered, the hub just had some spacing on it by way of skipped holes. Truing and tensioning was a little different, but not bad at all.

I actually only did it because of the rims I had, and the hubs were an annoyingly good deal. 30 for a profile SS setup, and 20 for a gsport Monkey. That's why I did it.

funfrontbrake wrote:

Still skeptical about the strenght/durability/tuning of that kind of setup.

If so i would lace a set of mocha ribcages

funfrontbrake wrote:

Still skeptical about the strenght/durability/tuning of that kind of setup.

If so i would lace a set of mocha ribcages

...more

dave lawrence wrote:

The logic I used was that the rim had all holes covered, the hub just had some spacing on it by way of skipped holes. Truing ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

The logic I used was that the rim had all holes covered, the hub just had some spacing on it by way of skipped holes. Truing and tensioning was a little different, but not bad at all.

I actually only did it because of the rims I had, and the hubs were an annoyingly good deal. 30 for a profile SS setup, and 20 for a gsport Monkey. That's why I did it.

...more

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

funfrontbrake wrote:

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

funfrontbrake wrote:

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

...more

depends
eventually its going to get to the point of there being little to no pins, even with regular double pegs
what i do is mark one side and always keep that side up so it has grip
ive noticed that new pc pedals will have a tendency to catch in pedal grinds but not very much

dave lawrence wrote:

The logic I used was that the rim had all holes covered, the hub just had some spacing on it by way of skipped holes. Truing ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

The logic I used was that the rim had all holes covered, the hub just had some spacing on it by way of skipped holes. Truing and tensioning was a little different, but not bad at all.

I actually only did it because of the rims I had, and the hubs were an annoyingly good deal. 30 for a profile SS setup, and 20 for a gsport Monkey. That's why I did it.

...more

funfrontbrake wrote:

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

funfrontbrake wrote:

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

...more

bmxsteve99 wrote:

depends
eventually its going to get to the point of there being little to no pins, even with regular double pegs
what i do is ...more

bmxsteve99 wrote:

depends
eventually its going to get to the point of there being little to no pins, even with regular double pegs
what i do is mark one side and always keep that side up so it has grip
ive noticed that new pc pedals will have a tendency to catch in pedal grinds but not very much

...more

Losing the pins will help it pedal grind better. As far as double pegs etc wearing em out, only if you hit the pedals.

I must not, I have the same set of Twisteds on my bike I have had for like 4 years.

funfrontbrake wrote:

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

funfrontbrake wrote:

Nice deal.

I see alot of people are grinding a side of pedals to make it slide better. Does it realy make a diff. ?

...more

bmxsteve99 wrote:

depends
eventually its going to get to the point of there being little to no pins, even with regular double pegs
what i do is ...more

bmxsteve99 wrote:

depends
eventually its going to get to the point of there being little to no pins, even with regular double pegs
what i do is mark one side and always keep that side up so it has grip
ive noticed that new pc pedals will have a tendency to catch in pedal grinds but not very much

...more

dave lawrence wrote:

Losing the pins will help it pedal grind better. As far as double pegs etc wearing em out, only if you hit the pedals.

I must ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

Losing the pins will help it pedal grind better. As far as double pegs etc wearing em out, only if you hit the pedals.

I must not, I have the same set of Twisteds on my bike I have had for like 4 years.

...more

Thats why I wonder. I never felt that my pedals stop my grinding or anything

Dont know if this counts but I did make a Borat headtube badge lol

I don't think that counts mite

Yeah that counts haha nice shit.
Anyone else have custom ht badge?

Might not be homemade, but yeah, I'm making this at work soon. Gunna be sick.
I've beefed up the guards since the PIC among some other minor tweaks. Extra thick flanges, narrow to clear grinds, 17mm 1pc axle/hub guard, comes with the other guard instead of a cone nut, steel helicoiled threads.

CamelOnAcid wrote:

Dont know if this counts but I did make a Borat headtube badge lol

CamelOnAcid wrote:

Dont know if this counts but I did make a Borat headtube badge lol

...more

I like....very much
Best bike in my village, my neighbor is very jealous

I padded my plastic seat/post combo a while back. I got an old eastern plastic pivotal seat, ripped the padding off the combo, cut a hole in the top for the pivotal bolt, and stuck it on the new seat.

EddiMundo wrote:

Might not be homemade, but yeah, I'm making this at work soon. Gunna be sick.
I've beefed up the guards since the PIC among ...more

EddiMundo wrote:

Might not be homemade, but yeah, I'm making this at work soon. Gunna be sick.
I've beefed up the guards since the PIC among some other minor tweaks. Extra thick flanges, narrow to clear grinds, 17mm 1pc axle/hub guard, comes with the other guard instead of a cone nut, steel helicoiled threads.

...more

Keep us posted dude . But I dont understand how the axel and guards are 1 piece

funfrontbrake wrote:

Keep us posted dude . But I dont understand how the axel and guards are 1 piece

funfrontbrake wrote:

Keep us posted dude . But I dont understand how the axel and guards are 1 piece

...more

That's because I haven't shown the internals. It uses a floating axle, meaning the hub can be built up all from one side kinda (hard to explain) but it allows for a 1pc axle/guard. And yeah, I'll keep yous posted...

You shouldn't make the flanges too fat, so you can't use normal spokes anymore. The hubguards look pretty dumb, too, because they're just straight and way too far away from the flanges to really protect the spokes. Look at other hubguards on the market and how near they are to the spokes and flanges. 1pc axle/guard doesn't sound that smart, because I wouldn't want to swap axles everytime I grind through a hubguard.

B(avaria)mx wrote:

You shouldn't make the flanges too fat, so you can't use normal spokes anymore. The hubguards look pretty dumb, too, because ...more

B(avaria)mx wrote:

You shouldn't make the flanges too fat, so you can't use normal spokes anymore. The hubguards look pretty dumb, too, because they're just straight and way too far away from the flanges to really protect the spokes. Look at other hubguards on the market and how near they are to the spokes and flanges. 1pc axle/guard doesn't sound that smart, because I wouldn't want to swap axles everytime I grind through a hubguard.

...more

Yeah its just a first drawing bro, chill I'm looking into the thickest I can have the flanges, but I can also counter sink the holes so that the spoke heads sit in them, which also further protects the spokes. The hub guards are the exact same as I run currently on my front. I can vouch for the design holding up. I haven't even mentioned what material I'm using yet, and with rotating the guard, even the heaviest of grinders should get a good life out of it. Realistically, for most people it should last at least the life of the hub itself. As for the flanges being so narrow, the point of it is to have them further away from the guard, as you want them as far away from danger as possible. They are only actually a couple of mm closer each than the flanges on the eclat dynamic hub, just the height and beefyness (yeah I made that up) of the hub give the impression they're a lot closer together. And that brings me onto my last point, that you had all that to say based of a single picture of a first drawing of a hub, with no dimensions, and no knowledge of what view its it. So pretty much you've made yourself look like a bit of a spaz...

EddiMundo wrote:

Yeah its just a first drawing bro, chill I'm looking into the thickest I can have the flanges, but I can also counter sink the ...more

EddiMundo wrote:

Yeah its just a first drawing bro, chill I'm looking into the thickest I can have the flanges, but I can also counter sink the holes so that the spoke heads sit in them, which also further protects the spokes. The hub guards are the exact same as I run currently on my front. I can vouch for the design holding up. I haven't even mentioned what material I'm using yet, and with rotating the guard, even the heaviest of grinders should get a good life out of it. Realistically, for most people it should last at least the life of the hub itself. As for the flanges being so narrow, the point of it is to have them further away from the guard, as you want them as far away from danger as possible. They are only actually a couple of mm closer each than the flanges on the eclat dynamic hub, just the height and beefyness (yeah I made that up) of the hub give the impression they're a lot closer together. And that brings me onto my last point, that you had all that to say based of a single picture of a first drawing of a hub, with no dimensions, and no knowledge of what view its it. So pretty much you've made yourself look like a bit of a spaz...

...more

I'm just throwing this out there, but although keeping the flanges closer to the center of the hub will keep them out of harm's way, it was also weaken the wheel itself. The wider apart the flanges are, the more lateral strength there is overall. The closer they are to the center, the less.

I'd like to see a finished model of your hub though, it's always cool seeing stuff like that other riders made

sundaybmxRR wrote:

I made a frankenhub using my old Kink Viridian axle, bolts, spacers & hardware & the bearings and shell of an old ...more

sundaybmxRR wrote:

I made a frankenhub using my old Kink Viridian axle, bolts, spacers & hardware & the bearings and shell of an old Odyssey Hazard front hub that was originally 14mm male/48h

The Kink hub was a hunk of a shit and the Odyssey was 14mm male which no one would buy, so I tried fitting the Kink axle in there and it didn't.. So I cut it down, and had to cut the internal spacer down some too, and it fit perfectly.








Also made another one similar to that using an old BSD axle & hardware with a random sealed 3/8" male axle front hub, but that one looks a lot better.





And the last think I can think of offhand is my seat post I currently still use that I modded to be a wedge using an old school stem quill and cutting the seat post at the right angle. I only did this to see if I could but ended up liking the look so I kept it. On my old KHE frame (Secondhand so no warranty anyway) I even cut down the seat tube so it looked super clean

...more

thats actually pretty cool.