I Dont Know My Bmx's Model

Related:
Create New Tag

5/27/2018 4:41 PM

Hi
Does Anybody know what model is this Haro (i bought it SH ) Photo
Is it worth customize it ... or just buy a new one ... looking for WTP Curse 2018
|

5/27/2018 5:28 PM

Better pictures with any details that stand out might help.

|

5/27/2018 5:30 PM

Need better pictures. It doesn't look great. The Curse won't be much of an upgrade. Just keep riding it.

|

5/27/2018 6:27 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/27/2018 6:34 PM

As I suggest to everyone. EVERY BMX is worth upgrading, just keep replacing parts until the last part you want or need to replace is the frame. Unless you are doing crazy drops/gaps/grinds/airs etc. The frame will most likely hold up till you want to try something a bit different.

If you like how it rides thats all that matters. I have a buddy that prefers his cheap hi tensile haro frame off a starter complete than his expensive super light chromoly frames.

That being said, if you literally hate everything on your bike and want a fresh start, you might want to just sell it. Lol

|

5/27/2018 6:32 PM

Gonna post Some photos in couple of hours ...

|

5/27/2018 6:34 PM

Bulletpup wrote:

As I suggest to everyone. EVERY BMX is worth upgrading, just keep replacing parts until the last part you want or need to replace is the frame. Unless you are doing crazy drops/gaps/grinds/airs etc. The frame will most likely hold up till you want to try something a bit different.

If you like how it rides thats all that matters. I have a buddy that prefers his cheap hi tensile haro frame off a starter complete than his expensive super light chromoly frames.

That being said, if you literally hate everything on your bike and want a fresh start, you might want to just sell it. Lol

Thanks ... A Question ... if i want to change the rims ... and put some 20' .. do i need to change the fork too ?

|

5/27/2018 6:59 PM

RazvanRS wrote:

Thanks ... A Question ... if i want to change the rims ... and put some 20' .. do i need to change the fork too ?

Is the bike not 20"?

|

5/27/2018 7:03 PM

If it's a 24" bike it's the Haro Downtown and is mostly(all?) Hi-ten steel.

|

5/27/2018 7:09 PM

No , better said that before .. its an 18''

|

5/27/2018 7:23 PM

Looks like a Haro Downtown with the blue stuff swapped out. need better photos

Photo

|

5/27/2018 7:25 PM

RazvanRS wrote:

No , better said that before .. its an 18''

Then you will not be able to use 20" wheels.

|

5/27/2018 8:30 PM

Ya you could put a different fork on but you wont be able to do anything about the rear clearance issue.

Are old/tall are you?

I had no idea we were talking about an 18" if you are growing more I would just spend money on things that can be transferred over to a 20" such as bars, stems, seats, etc.

|

5/27/2018 8:39 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/27/2018 8:41 PM

Bulletpup wrote:

Ya you could put a different fork on but you wont be able to do anything about the rear clearance issue.

Are old/tall are you?

I had no idea we were talking about an 18" if you are growing more I would just spend money on things that can be transferred over to a 20" such as bars, stems, seats, etc.

I'm 14 old and 1.73m/5.67f

|

5/27/2018 9:46 PM

Bulletpup wrote:

Ya you could put a different fork on but you wont be able to do anything about the rear clearance issue.

Are old/tall are you?

I had no idea we were talking about an 18" if you are growing more I would just spend money on things that can be transferred over to a 20" such as bars, stems, seats, etc.

RazvanRS wrote:

I'm 14 old and 1.73m/5.67f

In that case I think you should do your very best to NOT spend any money on that bike. Make use of it for as long as possible and sell it as soon as you get an opportunity. Save all money towards a complete or used custom, Since you will need an entirely new setup.

|

5/28/2018 6:52 AM

Photo Photo Photo Photo Photo Photo Photo
|

5/28/2018 7:06 AM
Edited Date/Time: 5/28/2018 7:07 AM

Get a 20" like Bullet said... that's your best option..

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

5/28/2018 8:03 AM

Bulletpup wrote:

In that case I think you should do your very best to NOT spend any money on that bike. Make use of it for as long as possible and sell it as soon as you get an opportunity. Save all money towards a complete or used custom, Since you will need an entirely new setup.

Do this, honestly. Don’t even try to learn anything as a 14 year old on an 18”. You could probably sell that/trade it for enough to get a 20” secondhand

|

BMX over 30: Eat clean, Stretch, and Pray.

5/29/2018 5:51 AM

This user is looking for an 18" complete if the bike is in good riding condition.

https://m.vitalbmx.com/forums/BMX-Stuff-For-Sale,17/Want-to-Buy-Cult-Juvi-or-other-18-Complete,1319275

|

5/29/2018 6:03 AM

Honestly I would just make sure the rear hub is sealed, I had horrible experiences with my first unsealed Haro complete. Honestly I couldn't tell you what the frame or model would be, since I am not that familiar with Haro bikes. Lemme just say that my rear hub completely fell apart after about 2 months of riding, and if you are gonna continue riding it then please upgrade to a fully sealed wheelset, I'm sure everyone on here could vouch for that upgrade and the difference it would make.
GL Bro- Evan

|

5/29/2018 11:09 AM

Well the bike .. has a problem .. the handlebars are moving ... im still trying to figure out .. what might be... i think its the stem ... but i think i'm just gonna change it to an .... WTP Curse 2018 .. because ... i like the color and a friend has an older version of curse .. and feels very nice ...

|

5/29/2018 2:58 PM

RazvanRS wrote:

Well the bike .. has a problem .. the handlebars are moving ... im still trying to figure out .. what might be... i think its the stem ... but i think i'm just gonna change it to an .... WTP Curse 2018 .. because ... i like the color and a friend has an older version of curse .. and feels very nice ...

good choice

|

Refs: Future FBM, Warchol2 WtfKennethXp Riversiderider TCbmx Riversiderider JakeSalbert

5/29/2018 4:22 PM

Not that it matters but from those pictures it doesn't look like an 18".

|

5/29/2018 5:21 PM

I agree. That looks like a 20". What number does it say on the tire?

|

2018 Sunday Motoross

5/29/2018 7:56 PM

The tires say 20 on em.

|

"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

5/29/2018 8:13 PM

RazvanRS wrote:

Well the bike .. has a problem .. the handlebars are moving ... im still trying to figure out .. what might be... i think its the stem ... but i think i'm just gonna change it to an .... WTP Curse 2018 .. because ... i like the color and a friend has an older version of curse .. and feels very nice ...

Don’t get the WTP. While it is better quality it is a money pit. As you get better the stock parts will break and the cost to replace them is not worth it in the long run. Color is not the thing you pick a bike by. Ask my son he had hi ten steel bars, first thing at the local park he road down 3 steps and hit a crack...the bars bent to an unrideable position. Worse yet you could pull them back to normal with very little effort. That’s why you stay away from hi ten steel anything if you can. Many other bikes around that feel the exact same way but have atleast cromoly bars ard forks. Any bike can be painted. It’s the parts.

Look at Kink, Fit, DK, Redline, GT, Mongoose even has some, Hoffman and Eastern that is a little list to start with. All you have to do is read the angles of the WTP and find one you can afford that has the same or very similar and it will feel identical.

|

5/29/2018 8:28 PM

I agree with Gack, I had a Sunday Primer and now everything has been replaced and the bike isn't even 8 months old. I cracked the hadtube last week doing a nose press off a wall. If you are looking for a good new bike your best bet would be OfferUp. The guys selling BMX bikes know what they sell for and would be willing to negotiate a price for you I'm sure. Not everyone starts out with a Porsche, but a Ford or Honda, same applies to bikes.
Good luck bro, just have fun and ride and buy used parts, way cheaper and will save your money too.

|

5/29/2018 8:37 PM

In that case, if it truly is a 20". Keep it and buy parts 1 by 1 if they break or you absolutely hate them. Then you will have the exact bike you want eventually and its always a cheaper initial purchase as you are only spending a chunk of change at a time.

When you buy a complete, you will inevitably dislike something about the bike. The color of a part, how heavy something is, how something looks or feels etc.

When you get the parts you want and accumulate them until the final peice is an aftermarket frame, you are much closer to your dream bike. As in, you are already there! wink

|

5/29/2018 10:07 PM

Bulletpup wrote:

In that case, if it truly is a 20". Keep it and buy parts 1 by 1 if they break or you absolutely hate them. Then you will have the exact bike you want eventually and its always a cheaper initial purchase as you are only spending a chunk of change at a time.

When you buy a complete, you will inevitably dislike something about the bike. The color of a part, how heavy something is, how something looks or feels etc.

When you get the parts you want and accumulate them until the final peice is an aftermarket frame, you are much closer to your dream bike. As in, you are already there! wink

I use to say that to everyone new. But then I noticed after all the years I have been riding it was the wrong advice. It seems cheaper to buy some bars and a set of cranks later and then something else. But you always end up in 1 of 2 situations.

1- You can’t ride because you need a certain part and you are broke. Most of the time it’s a frame or wheels and if you don’t have a job you are out of luck unless you have parents willing to spend the money.

2- It’s flat out dangerous! If you ride it and the chain snaps it can be bad. But most times you only get a slight injury. But if you are 3+ feet in the air and you snap the forks, frame, cranks and so on. Any 1 of them can send you to the hospital in a hurry.

That’s why the typical rule is buy as much cromoly as you can in a complete. Because your already a step ahead with a new bike and parts that you know (he might not yet) will last a set time. And you can prepare for what you need to upgrade. If you ride what he has it’s not smart. He already has an issue with the bars slipping. The bottom bracket looks like it is full of crap and needs overhauled asap. Plus, I have seen way too many kids get hurt from doing something most learned in school or from parents “Buy cheap, buy twice”. Not true on everything but it is definitely fact in BMX.

So you do the old
1- Most cromoly you can afford
2- If you can’t afford a cromoly frame/fork/bars then you have to be SURE to get cromoly bars and forks.
3- As many sealed parts as you can. For a person just starting it’s easier to maintain and it is normally better quality (added safety).

|

5/30/2018 3:01 AM

Yeah ..its a 20" .. one friend told me its a 18"... ... well... the advices you gave me.. are .. good... still.. because on bike .. i dont have any brands... just haro ... i feel... idk incorfotable... i would like to have at least some salt... or better eclat... just cause i am looking what things i want to change to .. make me happy.... gets around 430usd .. ... maybe i will stay with bmx ... but this bmx is annoying me... the pedals are worn out ( no grip on them ), .. the grips on the bar... hurts....., i need to change the stem cause .... handlebars sliping and the tyres are so thin .. that everytime i do an bunny hop u can hear a loud noise from rim... and its the third time i change inner tube this week

|

5/30/2018 6:34 AM
Edited Date/Time: 5/30/2018 6:35 AM

Bulletpup wrote:

In that case, if it truly is a 20". Keep it and buy parts 1 by 1 if they break or you absolutely hate them. Then you will have the exact bike you want eventually and its always a cheaper initial purchase as you are only spending a chunk of change at a time.

When you buy a complete, you will inevitably dislike something about the bike. The color of a part, how heavy something is, how something looks or feels etc.

When you get the parts you want and accumulate them until the final peice is an aftermarket frame, you are much closer to your dream bike. As in, you are already there! wink

Gack2000 wrote:

I use to say that to everyone new. But then I noticed after all the years I have been riding it was the wrong advice. It seems cheaper to buy some bars and a set of cranks later and then something else. But you always end up in 1 of 2 situations.

1- You can’t ride because you need a certain part and you are broke. Most of the time it’s a frame or wheels and if you don’t have a job you are out of luck unless you have parents willing to spend the money.

2- It’s flat out dangerous! If you ride it and the chain snaps it can be bad. But most times you only get a slight injury. But if you are 3+ feet in the air and you snap the forks, frame, cranks and so on. Any 1 of them can send you to the hospital in a hurry.

That’s why the typical rule is buy as much cromoly as you can in a complete. Because your already a step ahead with a new bike and parts that you know (he might not yet) will last a set time. And you can prepare for what you need to upgrade. If you ride what he has it’s not smart. He already has an issue with the bars slipping. The bottom bracket looks like it is full of crap and needs overhauled asap. Plus, I have seen way too many kids get hurt from doing something most learned in school or from parents “Buy cheap, buy twice”. Not true on everything but it is definitely fact in BMX.

So you do the old
1- Most cromoly you can afford
2- If you can’t afford a cromoly frame/fork/bars then you have to be SURE to get cromoly bars and forks.
3- As many sealed parts as you can. For a person just starting it’s easier to maintain and it is normally better quality (added safety).

After reading Razvan's most recent post, its going to be a chunk of change to replace some necessary things. Might be better off getting a better entire bike.

I will say skill level is a big factor. The more you progress, the better your parts will need to be for safety reasons. I dont know what the OP is capable of but if we are talking about someone that is just learning bunnyhops, they wont need parts that can handle 20ft drops just yet.

I will also say, If at any time there is an opportunity to get a better bike, without stealing or taking advantage of someone, there would be no reason not to go for it. There is no skill level you must achieve in order to deserve a better bike.

How long someone plans on sticking with it is also a factor. I have already had a ton of friends just flat out quit and I have only been riding for over a year. And this is after buying top of the line parts and bikes, etc.

If you plan on sticking with it, buy the absolute best parts or entire bike you can afford or save up. I found out a good while ago ther is no point in buying an inferior part. Spend a bit extra for peice of mind. Its worth it.

|