I don't have a clue

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6/15/2016 11:48 AM

I'm brand new to bmx, I was watching billy Perry and that's what got me interested in it. I want to build a bmx instead of buying a complete one, I dont know where to really start. I like the look of street/stunt bmx mostly street, I want a really light bike but nothing insanely expensive and if I buy the parts separate does it come with the appropriate bearings and nuts? Any other advice on getting started?

Thanks

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6/15/2016 12:16 PM

Building a bike with aftermarket parts will cost at least double the price of a decent complete.
Wheel bearings come with the wheels, but the headset and bottom bracket are sold separately.

The first thing to look for is a frame, think about the geometry you want. Steep headangle makes it a bit easier to do front wheel tricks. Short chainstays make the bike feel more nimble. Bb height also makes the bike more nimble. Toptube length is mostly to suit your height but also personal preference. Don't forget that the more nimble the frame is, the less stable it is.
Then build around that really. Pick some forks, stem, headset, and bars that you think you'll like. Don't fall for fashions and keep everything fairly neutral at first (don't get massive bars just because they're cool, they might hinder your riding). Then pick a wheel set, cranks, sprocket, bb, pedals, chain etc. Plus tyres, grips, seat/post, and brake set up if you want one (which I'd heavily recommend, otherwise you'll be too scared to go more than half a crank at anything and turn into a foot tall ledge ferret).
You'll be looking at spending about £1000 for a half decent custom build

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6/15/2016 12:46 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/15/2016 12:47 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

Building a bike with aftermarket parts will cost at least double the price of a decent complete.
Wheel bearings come with the ...more

This exactly.

Also, when looking for completes, go for 100% Chromoly metal. Primarily make sure that the frame, fork, and handlebar are all made out of 100% Chromoly, it's the strongest and most long-lasting material.

Some frames (and other various parts) are an alloy, or mix, of both Chromoly and Hi-Ten Steel or another kind of metal. Avoid those as there are weak points within the frame.

Sealed bearings in the wheels are also a MASSIVE must, unsealed bearings are horrible, especially when running pegs.

Maybe have a look at KINK Bike Co. or Fit Bike Co. for good, entry-level completes.

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Scooter kid trying to ride a bike.
@scootereyn

6/15/2016 6:38 PM

James Gothard wrote:

I'm brand new to bmx, I was watching billy Perry and that's what got me interested in it. I want to build a bmx instead of ...more

Yeah...i was going to do the same thing as you...build a bike...until I realized that there is no way to avoid "insanely expensive" when you are doing a build, or at least do it properly. I am still going to do my dram build one day, but am going with a complete (Verde Luxe) to start with.

As these guys have mentioned, start with a complete that has a solid skeleton - frame, fork, bars...and I will add cranks and pedal axels. You want anything that will bear the weight of landing to be full Chromoly. Then you can customize it as you become a better rider - and know what you need - and also as you become more familiar with the sea of parts that are out there and what is good...and bad.

I would also allude to the fact that to get a good solid complete, you will spend over $400 (what ever that would convert to in pounds). and that it is worth every penny...or pence wink

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I've Got sXe!!!
Up The Antix/Up The Punx
1988 Mongoose Caifornian Pro
2015 Surly Krampus

"Running Is dumb" - Dave Lawrence

6/15/2016 11:57 PM

There's quite a few good completes around the £450 mark, especially if you check out the sale bikes from shops like sourcebmx.com or winstanleysbmx.com. Then you can upgrade a few bits if your budget allows. There's no point building a custom as your first bike, what if you don't like riding and give up? You'll struggle to sell a custom for half what you paid for it as the second hand market is flooded right now.
My bike would cost about 1500 new and I'd be lucky to get 400 for it if I wanted to sell it. I'd have to let it go for about 200 if I needed a quick sale

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6/16/2016 2:27 PM

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My Ride
My Other Ride
I've sold stuff to Ecuadevil, LLURider, and Mario.villegas90 with no complaints.
IG: evildeadhands

6/16/2016 4:57 PM

not mentioning learning geometry for the type of riding u want and your height etc all comes into play

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1996 dyno slammer, 1997 mosh pro, 1998 gt vertigo, 2000 haro backtrail x3, 2004 free agent tigercat, 2005 volume dinosaur, 2005 s&m black bike, 2013 stolen saint 24", 2015 flybikes proton

6/16/2016 6:23 PM

JonnyGanja wrote:

not mentioning learning geometry for the type of riding u want and your height etc all comes into play

yeah...no matter what the price range, if the bike doesn't fit you and the style you want to ride, it is going to be a waste of money...

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I've Got sXe!!!
Up The Antix/Up The Punx
1988 Mongoose Caifornian Pro
2015 Surly Krampus

"Running Is dumb" - Dave Lawrence

6/18/2016 7:44 AM

Thanks guys this really helped me out I'm going with a complete and then as I find my own "style" I will adapt as I go.


Much appreciated

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