I will help everybody in bmx im the bmxgod

PRICING OUT A BMX BIKE
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My brakeless Cult Butter and fully loaded Haro Zebra
Remember browsing the ads in BMX Plus! and wondering how you were going to save up the $350 to buy the top-of-the-line GT Pro Freestyle Tour in chrome and pink? That was quite a bit of money back in those days, and a lot of us pulled the classic Cru Jones to make that purchase. Some got there and some didn't. Some had to go with a Dyno Compe or Detour as opposed to the Team Pro Compe. Whatever your situation may have been back in those days, you knew that a little more money got you closer to the best thing available

The one question I get asked by my friends is, "What do you think of this?" and they text me a pic or link to an ad. Then I follow up with, "What's your budget?"

A lot of guys getting back into BMX will be hesitant to spend a lot of money on a 20" bike. After all, it has no gears, it's small, and at first, it truly is a "hobby". Some may even say it's a phase you're going through. So, many will choose not to commit and go cheap. And by cheap, I mean under $350 (new). They go used, or buy a lower-end complete (I will cover what makes a complete "lower-end" later). I will argue that this is actually the more expensive way to go in the end.

Lo Barato Sale Caro

Roughly translated, this means, "To be cheap ends up being expensive" - and I am the best example of this phrase. Through the past five years, I have owned nearly a dozen BMX bikes, spent thousands of dollars, and sold them for nothing near what I paid for them. I bought used and new... never taking the time to research. But then again, I never found a reliable source that was helpful in regards to buying a BMX bike (which has inspired me write this article).

A decent complete BMX bike, fitted to your body, style of riding, brand and looks preference will run you over $450-$700, new. To build a custom bike will run you $700+, depending on the level of parts you purchase.

My Cult Butter was a custom build. It is brakeless and cost me nearly $1,000; my Haro was about the same. I've built "dream bikes" and they ended up being priced out well over $1,200. Some stock completes can be in the $900 range.

Used and Abused

Can you find a good, used BMX bike? Possibly. You may even be able to find one from somebody who barely rode it. But, for the most part, BMX bikes are ridden, and ridden hard. If budget is truly an issue, the used market is where you may need to turn to. Just make sure to inspect the frame for cracks and re-welds, as well as the overall appearance of the bike. You will tell immediately if the bike has been through the ringer and is ready for the scrap yard.

Allow the past to stay in the past

Buy a modern bike, unless vintage collecting is what you want to do. As much as it sounds fun to rebuild that old Hutch you had, I would not recommend it. Those bikes are very delicate and vintage/NOS parts are very expensive. In every way, modern BMX bikes are far superior over what we rode back in the 80's and 90's. Bikes today are lighter, stronger, built better, more reliable and possess geometry that works well. I have a 2000 GT Pro Performer. While it is a fun bike to ride for novelty reasons, it is inferior to my modern bikes in many ways. The geometry is funky and it is heavy as sin. Many of us remember the old footage of Mat Hoffman having to wedge his foot on his stem and pull his handlebars back because they would slip in the stem when he rode ramps. This is far from the case today. Due to rider input and solid R&D, BMX has come to a pinnacle of product quality. It makes me wonder how we rode those old klunkers so hard back in those days.

Make life easier on yourself - Commit a hearty budget and treat yourself

You've read my article thus far, so you must be serious about getting back into BMX. Commit to a hearty budget and get yourself something nice. I assume you work hard, take care of your responsibilities and sacrifice to better your family's life. Treat yourself - you deserve it. Set aside a large enough budget so you make a sound decision once, making a good, informed purchase from the beginning. Don't go cheap... you will be much happier by doing it "right".
BIG GUY NEEDS A BIG BIKE - NOT THE CASE. 24" and 26" BMX BIKES
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My Stolen Saint 24"
I've owned a number of "big bikes": A Volume Sledgehammer (26"), Eastern Traildigger (26") and a Stolen Saint (24"). They were all fun bikes, but nowhere near the feel of a 20" bike. I know I will get a lot of flack for my views on big bikes, but I've had quite a few to give a honest opinion.

They are tall, relatively heavy, and the wheel size is difficult to trick with (which is why I'm THAT much more impressed by cruiser and FGFS riders). Cruisers were originally intended for larger/adult racers, but in recent years, companies have been building the frames to accommodate freestyle riding.

A lot of adults getting back into BMX - or even those just starting - will feel they require a bigger bike. I say it's not necessary. With the options in frame sizes, handlebar sizes, crank and stem lengths, you can build an adult sized 20". Both my 20" bikes fit me very well. I'm 5'9 1/2", and can ride all day without feeling cramped. I see riders over 6ft. tall build their bikes to their bodies. For size, there is absolutely no need to go with a big bike.

If you want a cruiser, get one because you truly want to ride a cruiser - not because you feel 20" BMX bikes are "too small". Cruisers are fun, roll really well, and riders shred on them. But they are in a class of themselves and ride very different than a 20" bike - especially the 26" versions. Personally, I was able to freestyle a bit with my big bikes, but nowhere near the capability on my 20" bike(s).
THE CONTEMPORARY BMX FRAME
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2013 Haro SD V2 - Dennis Enarson Signature Frame
The bike frame is your starting point - the base, the platform. If not chosen wisely, you may not like what you're riding and quit, or you may do what I did: waste a lot of money trying to find the right one. Whether you are buying a complete (already built from the factory) or building a bike for yourself, you will have to decide on a frame. This is not 1990 anymore - bike frame material, geometry, and - thanks to mountain and road bikes - building processes have improved.

Most frames are made in Taiwan. But before you start chanting "USA! USA! USA!" the Taiwanese make one heck of a high quality bike frame, as well as the parts that go on them. In fact, most bike frames - in all niches of bicycle riding, are made overseas.

If you are hard pressed to buy American, there are quite a few companies that still make frames domestically:
Standard Byke Co.
Cult
S&M
SuperCross BMX

Please note that while these (and some others) produce their frames in the U.S., many of them still use overseas manufacturers and vendors (to source materials) or have some of their products built there. You may not agree with it, but it does allow costs to be cut down and savings are passed on to you. Take, for example, my Cult (Butter) and a Haro (Zebra) - the Cult was made in the USA and the Haro made in Taiwan. While I enjoy my Cult more (which I will go into later) the Haro is a fantastic bike frame at half the cost of my Cult. I am not biased when it comes to Taiwanese frames.

"What's your style?"
"The art of fighting... without fighting..."

Decide what kind of riding you want to do? Can't decide? I don't blame you. Have you requested a free DansComp catalog and spent longer-than-usual time taking a dump trying to figure out what to buy?

Gone are the days of a do-it-all bike. Well... kinda... I'll get into that later. But, for the most part, frames fall under 4 different categories:
Street/Park/Trails
Your best bet for building a "do-it-all" bike. Designed for street, park and dirt jumping, these frames tend to be built slightly stronger and heavier than a flatland or race frame. Most, if not all S/P/T frames are made of steel, offer longer top-tube lengths and 14mm dropouts for large rear axles. Many come with removable brake mounts and are drilled for gyro tabs, but some companies offer completely brakeless versions with no mounts.
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2013 Cult Dak Signature Frame
Flatland
A very specific frame made for modern day flatland riding. Flatland frames tend to be lightweight steel, have shorter top-tube lengths, short seat tube lengths, very tight/steep geometry and 3/8" dropouts for smaller rear axles. Flatland frames spin very quickly and are generally not suited for street/park/trails.





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2012 St. Martin AJ Foot Jam Frame
Race Frames
Race frames are specifically built for racing, with geometry lending themselves to fast acceleration and stability. Race frames are typically made of super lightweight, stiff aluminum or carbon fiber - but some companies make great steel race frames, as well. They are usually built to be used with v-brakes. Since race frames won't be used for trick riding, dropouts are typically designed to be used with 3/8" (10mm) rear axles.
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2011 Intense Podium
24" and 26"
As they are described, these frames are made to accommodate larger wheels. The "big bikes" are derived from their racing roots (cruisers), but are now available with freestyle geometry. Because of the extra material used to make these frames, big bikes tend to be a bit heavier than their 20" counterparts.





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2012 Sunday Wave C 24"
What are all these numbers?
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Has your brain melted yet? No? Good... because here is where we go into geometry which may or may not melt your brain. While it seems like a boring subject, geometry is a critical aspect of choosing your bike to make sure it works for you. If you've already looked at frames in a catalog or online, you've probably seen these numbers (or something like them):
HA: 75º
SA: 71º
CS: 13.5-14"
ST: 8.75"
20.5, 20.75, 21"

Let's go into the specifics of this "special BMX frame code":
HA "Head Angle" - HA is the angle the head tube is positioned; this affects steering. Most S/P/T frames will be offered in a tried-and-true compromise of 75º. This angle gives a good, even, middle ground to base your build from. Any deviation from the standard 75º HA will alter the steering input. For example, a slightly steeper angle - such as 75.5º - will offer a more "responsive" or faster steering bike. This is a preference for more technical riders who like to do tricks that require a lot of front wheel, ramp lip, deck or ledge tricks. A slightly slack HA - such as 74.5º - will offer a more stable ride. This is a preference for dirt jumpers or vert riders who need high speed stability for rolling, in the air, and landing. In both deviations, you will compromise something: stability (steep HA) or technical responsiveness (slack HA). Components, such as choice of fork, stem, handlebar and tire selection will alter the bike's handling, as well (to be covered later).

SA "Seat Angle" - This is the tube you insert your seat post into. Com'on... get your mind out of the gutter - serious BMX talk here! Again, a typical SA is mostly offered in 71º, but there are some deviations from that, as well. The SA does two things: 1)positions the bottom bracket relative to the overall frame and 2) positions your seat. You will "feel" it sitting and standing. A steep SA will position the seat more forward, making your cockpit shorter while sitting, at the same time, moving the bottom bracket further back, making more room for the rider while standing. Yes... brain melt... I know.

CS "Chainstay" - This positions the rear wheel relative to the overall frame. A longer CS will give the rider a more stable ride due to the lengthening of the wheelbase. A shorter CS will give the rider a more responsive, less stable feeling frame. You may alter the CS length depending on the length of the dropout. Most riders want to "slam" their rear wheel to the shortest CS possible by having the rear wheel positioned all the way into the dropout.

ST "Seat Tube" - This dictates the stand-over height of the bike. Some riders like a shorter ST which will position the top tube as "low slung", allowing the rider to move above the top-tube more freely. Some riders like a taller ST. Short ST lengths are most noticeable on flatland frames, as shown above.

TT "Top-Tube" - The most talked about aspect of a BMX frame, yet only one aspect of the entire make up of the frame. While it seems natural to think a longer top-tube will be more suitable for a long-legged rider, SA will drastically change the feel and cockpit room of the bike - so not all TT's are the same. Top-tube length will dictate the overall length of the frame. I am 5'9 1/2" and ride a 21" frame. I have friends who are much taller than I and ride a 20.8" frame. Again, it depends on rider preference, and component selection will alter the bike handling and overall feel.

BB "Bottom Bracket" - The height of the bottom bracket will change the feeling of the frame for the rider. Lower BB's will feel more stable and higher BB's will be less stable, yet more responsive to spinning. This is not to be confused with the actual bearings that go into this part of the frame, although they are called the same thing. Sorry, I had nothing to do with the making up of these terms.
Reference: FortyTwo BMX
Steel is REAL, maaaannnnn.
Yeah... real f'ing confusing....
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S&M ATF Rasta Frame. Isn't it puuurty?
If geometry didn't make you want to stab yourself in the eye with a chopstick, let's cover frame materials, shall we? I am going to cover steel freestyle frames only in this section. While I briefly talked about race frames earlier, I don't have any experience with them. Here are the various BMX Freestyle frame materials available:

Hi Tensile Steel (Hi-Ten): Hi-Ten is the lowest grade, inexpensive alloy available for BMX bikes, typically found on inexpensive completes and children's bikes. Some lower-end adult bikes may also be made of Hi-Ten, but it seems aluminum is the current go-to for the Wal-Mart variety. Because it is a softer, weaker alloy, manufacturers are required to use thicker tubing resulting in a heavier frame.

4130 Chromoly (4130 CRMO): The go-to for most high-end BMX frames. It is lighter and stronger than Hi-Ten with a better fatigue rating. The result is a longer lasting, better riding frame. It is also known as "aircraft tubing" due to its use in the construction of airplanes.

Some companies go for a compromise and combine Hi-Ten and Chromoly tubing, using the stronger of the two in the areas that need it. This combination allows for lower costs, and usually found in completes. I recommend to go with 100% 4130 chromoly from the get-go and stay away from Hi-Ten options if possible.

Other materials (Sanko, Super-Therm, Cult Classic, Reynolds, etc): All proprietary brands of steel tubing with different treatments and alloy blends - making them chromoly on steroids. Typically, these steel manufacturers claim that their steel is better/stronger/lighter than anything else offered. However, considering that BMX frames (when ridden hard) have a life span of 3-5 years or less, I still question whether these alloys are required. If the frame doesn't fatigue in 3-5 years, the cracking paint, tube dents, wear spots and outdated specs will retire it. With these different alloys, there may be a slight difference in ride quality, but this comes down to rider preference. I know if I tap on my Cult (which is Cult Classic tubing) with my fingernail, it makes a different sound than when I do that on my Haro (full chromoly). While this does not help me land flat 360's, it is an indication of the different materials and treatments used in the making of both frames.
I like steel butted and I cannot lie...
Butted tubes is a process in which frame builders use tubes that are thicker at the ends (weld points) and thinner in the middle. The result retains strength and saves weight. Steel is strong enough that builders can use thin-walled tubing - but it is difficult to work with, which is why butting is such a great idea.

The bigger the butt, the less tube material required. Yeah, I know... stop your giggling.

Butted tubes is a process used on higher end frames. I recommend shopping for frames or completes that say the tubing is butted.
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Gussets
Use of gussets is an old-school technique of adding extra plates of steel to connecting points on a frame to add a little more necessary strength at stress areas. Higher-end frames and completes will possess gussets as shown here.
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2012 United Voyage
Example of the old-school way of using gussets.
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1976 Mongoose
Some like it hot...
Heat treatment is a process in which the material is heated to a certain temperature increasing strength.

There is a lot of back-and-forth on the internet about heat-treatment between metallurgists who really know their stuff. Since I am not a frame builder, I am not qualified to go into the details of heat-treament, only describe what is it in the marketing fluff.


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Taiwanese heat treatment furnace
Reference: BrightSpoke
Double Trouble: Double Top Tube Frames
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Yes and YES. They are available for those of you who like to wax nostalgic. SuperCross and Subrosa currently make very cool DTT's. While Supercross makes a general freestyle frame, Subrosa offers a street version, a flatland version and a 24" version.

While there is no structural advantage of double top-tube frames over a basic single top-tube frame, they are super cool to have and great conversation pieces.

Makes me miss my Haro Master and General Osborn Pro.
COMPLETES
You complete me...
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2014 Stolen Sinner: The highest-end model Stolen Bikes currently offers.
A lot of folks getting back into BMX will not want to deal with the price and hassle of building a custom bike, which is fine. Almost all manufacturers offer completes but not all are made the same. I will cover individual components later, but now that you understand BMX frames, you have something to work with when looking at a complete.

Completes are often compromised builds, meaning, they are spec'd out so most anybody can get out riding the moment they buy it from the shop or build it from mail order. And because they are spec'd for one-size-fits-all, you may - or may not - like the feel of a complete. Also, some parts (especially the brake) will be of a low-end variety. I recommend buying from a local bike shop. That way, you can test ride the bike and see if you like it. Personally, I've had quite a few completes, and always ended up modifying them. Remember when I mentioned "going cheap ends up being expensive"? Yep. But, if you can be satisfied with a bike-in-a-box, then completes are a great way to go.

Completes are often designed around current trends, as well. I've seen handlebars get bigger and tires get fatter on completes - as these two things are trendy and popular to have on custom bikes. They generally come with one brake and two pegs; they are painted very nicely with pretty candy colored parts. If you are specifically looking for a flatland-only bike, FlatlandFuel offers quite a few nice completes.

If you decide on a complete and order it online, it will need to be built partially. If you don't know how to build a bike, or some time has gone by since you last tinkered with putting a bike together, please have a qualified bicycle mechanic put it together for you with the proper tools.
Lower-end completes
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2013 Stolen Casino: The lowest-end model Stolen currently offers.
The lower-end completes are usually offered with Hi-Ten frames with heavier, low-end components. While these are great bikes for children and young teens, these $250-$350 bikes are a rough-go if you want to do some serious riding. Most re-entering riders who buy one of these as a "starter" bike will inevitably upgrade. I recommend go with the "upgrade" from the start. Low-end/hi-ten bikes may look fantastic, but in the end, that is just paint.

These are obviously better than your Wal-Mart Mongoose (WalGoose) variety BMX bike, but not by much. At first glance, the two Stolen's shown here may not look different at all, but once you start uncovering the details, you will see why there's a $300 up-charge for the Sinner.

Before you buy an inexpensive complete, read the description of the parts and frame material. I will let you decided what is best for you and your budget, but I advise against buying a low-end complete for an adult rider looking for a quality bike.
I don't even know what that means!
No one knows what it means but it's provocative...
Alright... so we went through all this frame jargon: what does that mean to you? Well, it means you have choices now. You can buy or build something that is exactly tailored to you and what you want to do. Want to ride flatland? How about dirt jumping? Worried about strength or unsure of materials? You now know what to look for in a frame. In BMX, money does talk, and spending that extra dough will buy you a much higher quality bike that will be stronger, lighter, and feel a lot better. These are not the 80's and 90's anymore, when you simply bought a bike because your favorite rider was riding it - paying no attention to geometry or materials (well, maybe your friend said to go with 4130 because that's what Eddie Fiola rides). When you're shopping to buy a complete or build a custom, look for these specifics - they do make a difference.

I will go into how I came to build the "do-it-all" freestyle bike in a later section.
BMX PARTS
BMX parts are ever changing; trends come and go very quickly in BMX. In fact, I am guessing that by time you read this, the parts I show as examples will be obsolete. I am not going to cover preferential parts over others or attempt to steer you in the direction towards specific brands. I will, however, explain the variations of parts, quality, aesthetics, functionality, geometry and how they have changed over time since the 80's and 90's.
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Forks
A fork is a critical part of your BMX bike... it does a whole lot more than just being something to bolt your front wheel on. The fork will dictate the way your bike handles, how it will perform under certain tricks and the overall feel of your bike. Forks undergo similar manufacturing treatments as frames, available in the same materials.

BMX forks are offered in two versions: WITHOUT brake mounts and WITH brake mounts. Due to the popularity of brakeless (or rear brake only) riding, there are only a few companies that produce forks with brake mounts and most are made for flatland bikes. Odyssey, S&M, Primo, Sunday and a few other companies still currently offer stronger street version forks with front brake mounts. Forks are generally made to accept 3/8" axles, and are 1 1/8" "threadless" - meaning you do not thread on the headset bearing race like you were required with our old bikes.

There are a number of tutorials online on how to install a threadless BMX fork. If you have never installed a threadless fork, I advise following the tutorials closely or work with an experienced friend or qualified mechanic with proper knowledge and tools.

Threadless technology has been around for quite awhile derived from MTB and road bike applications. The end result is a solid set up that is far superior over threaded forks with 1" quill stems.
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Subrosa Villicus Fork WITHOUT brake mounts
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S&M Pitch Fork WITH brake mounts
Reason to be offset...
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Fork offset refers to the lateral position of the dropout and dictates whether the front wheel is placed more forward or more rearward. This changes the overall wheelbase length. Currently, the popular range of dropout offset is 0mm - 32mm, although I have read some companies offer longer than 32mm offset.

Generally speaking, a 0mm or minimal offset fork will produce a quicker response in steering input. Typically, flatland bikes will be built with 0mm offset, so that there is minimal change in front end feel when the handlebars are forwards or backwards. 0mm offset is also the ultimate in steering responsiveness necessary for flatland riding. Technical riders - such as park and street riders - may appreciate a minimal offset (13mm - 26mm) which makes it easier to "pop up" into front wheel rolling tricks such as nose manuals and hang-5's.

Trail, vert or street riders (who like going fast and hucking themselves off big obstacles) may appreciate a longer offset, such as 32mm. This lengthens the overall wheelbase and adds stability to the bike. There are forks designed with "adjustable" offset, allowing the rider the adjust their offset on the fly depending on the type of riding they want to do for that specific session.

While fork offset affects steering input, there are other factors that affect bike handling such as frame geometry, handlebar geometry, stem length and tire selection.
Wheels
BMX wheels have come a long way since the 80's and 90's. Huge improvements in strength, manufacturing processes, lacing patterns and weight have changed the way people ride - simply because one can ride without fear of destroying their wheel from every trick they fumble or hard landings.

If you rode in the 90's, you most likely rode 48 spoke wheels. Back then, this high spoke count was necessary for strength - but came with a weight penalty. Now, BMX wheels can have a smaller spoke count and are just as strong - if not stronger - than their predecessors. Many flatland riders still ride on 48 spoke wheels for lateral stiffness.

RIMS: Modern BMX rims are offered in two varieties: single-wall or double-wall. The double-wall rim is the stronger of the two, utilizing extra material for strength. Some things have not changed, however, such as the use of aluminum for material choice.

SPOKES: Wheel spokes come in an array of sizes, thickness and colors. For those who want to spend extra, titanium spokes are available for purchase - although most riders have steel spokes.

HUBS: Front and rear hubs have changed dramatically over the years, as well. Both are offered in loose ball bearing and sealed bearing, with male and female style axles. Front hubs are offered in 3/8" (10mm) axle diameter and rear hubs are offered in both 3/8" and 14mm axle diameter, with the 14mm diameter axle designed for street and park use (grinding).

Freewheels are no longer thread-on, they come in a "cassette" version, where the freewheel and cog is one piece and is installed into the hub itself. The driver is secured into the hub with the axle cone nuts, resulting in a very lightweight, solid set-up.

Freecoaster rear hubs are available, as well. Freecoasters allow the rider to move the bike backwards without the cranks moving, whereas a traditional freewheel will force the cranks to move backwards when rolling backwards. Use of freewheel vs. freecoaster is up to rider preference. Most all flatland riders will ride freecoaster, while street/park riders may or may not choose to ride with one.

Coaster rear hubs (back pedal brake) have become extinct in BMX, but a few brave souls still ride with one - I know three riders, personally, who ride with a coaster brake. The only company I know who has revolutionized the coaster brake is VeloSteel a VERY specialized boutique hub that has gained popularity with the "it" cycling crowd. Otherwise, eBay is where you will find a nice Bendix or Suntour coaster hub that is in good working condition. Shimano makes a fine coaster rear hub, as well.
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Primo Rasta Wheelset - Double-wall rims; rear sealed bearing 14mm freewheel hub; front sealed bearing female axle hub.
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Alienation Rush V2 Freecoaster Hub. 14mm sealed bearings 36 hole.
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VeloSteel Coaster Brake Rear hub.
Tires
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Shadow Undertaker Tires
If any one section under "BMX PARTS" gathers debate, it will be this one.

To me, tire selection is one of the more critical aspects of a building or buying a BMX bike. Tires affect handling, speed (rolling resistance), weight, traction and "cushion". Tires is what connects you to the ground - so tire selection is vitally important. With the exception of flatland riders, most BMX'ers do not ride the 20 X 1.75" size anymore. However, some flatland riders are beginning to adopt more street riding and going with a wider tire. Boy... I sure do pick on those flatland riders, don't I?

Like all other things, tires have improved greatly since we were teenage BMX punks. Rubber compounds, casing, tread design, air capacity and volume have developed to match riders' needs. Have you noticed there aren't many knobby tires anymore? BMX race tires have also changed drastically, featuring "mini-knobs" designed to go fast on hard pack tracks.

Pressure vs. Volume

We all know you have to inflate a tire. Higher end BMX tires will accept inflation to 110psi (and more for some flatland tires). Generally speaking, a higher inflated tire will roll faster than a lower inflated tire. Also, higher inflated tires are less susceptible to "pinch flats" or impact punctures. Sounds good, right? Well, not so.

A tire inflated to a high pressure will also be extremely hard, making the ride quality harsh. While you may theoretically roll faster (a myth which I will bust later in this section), road bumps and landings will be felt in your wrists and body, even with great landing form. In other words, a high inflated tire provides no cushion for the rider. Also, traction will be compromised greatly, even on a sticky compound.

A low inflated tire will provide more cushion, but not without cost. You will be more susceptible to impact punctures and high rolling resistance. A low pressure tire will also wear faster.

So, what is a rider to do? You go too high, and you feel like your wrists are going to snap; go too low, you're not rolling anywhere and getting pinch flats!
Fat Tires
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Cult Chase tires in 2.4 width
Brilliantly, companies have borrowed some insight from MTB tire technology and developed high volume tires. High volume tires are essentially "fat" tires, in the 2.25 to the 2.4+ widths. Some riders believe this is a "trend", but fat tires have revolutionized the way a rider can adjust his/her tire pressures to enjoy low rolling resistance and cushion at the same time. (Note: BMX'ers are always calling things "trends". Some things just work, and the high volume tire is one of those things).

A high volume tire does not have to be inflated very high - at least not to the 110psi range to enjoy low rolling resistance. In fact, a lower psi in a high volume tire will have less rolling resistance than a skinnier tire at a high psi - simply because a high psi tire will be resistant to rolling over bumps.

With the lower psi - say, in the 75-80psi range - traction will also be much better. Why? Because a wide tire flattens under load (you riding it) and therefore providing a larger contact patch of the tire to the surface. So, if you are riding a wide tire and inflating it to 110psi, you are, in fact, defeating the purpose of riding a fat tire.

Some will argue: "Well... how come road bike racers use a skinny tire at, like, 130psi?"

My answer to that is:

1) You're not riding a road race bike: you're riding a BMX bike. Those athletes race at a consistent speed of 25-30MPH on flat roads, and descend damn near 60MPH. How is that applicable to BMX freestyle riding?

2) Road bike racers design their bikes to lessen as much wind resistance as possible, even at the expense of comfort. Part of the reason why their tires are so thin, hard and narrow is because that reduces aerodynamic wind resistance. Again, not applicable to BMX freestyle in any way.

Wider tires also possess a taller profile, which is the height of the tire. A taller profile tire will provide a larger rotational mass, allowing for more momentum which will translate to maintaining speed.

I can go into charts, graphs and science behind why one would want to go with a high volume, wider tire - but Schwalbe North America does such a fine job at doing that - so I'll leave it up to the true tire geeks to explain it.

Typically, I inflate my tires to 65-75psi depending on ambient temperature and type of riding I will be doing that day.

Earlier I mentioned that some flatland riders still prefer a narrower tire. The idea behind a narrow tire for flatland is 1) you are usually confined to a smooth flat surface 2) you aren't jumping your bike which requires cushion for a landing, and 3) narrow tires are easier to lean for "turbine" (fast spin rolling) tricks.

Tread Patterns

Depending on the type of riding you will be doing, you will want to consider the tread. Trail (dirt jumping) may require more tread to bite into the loose dirt, while street, park and flatland riders will prefer a slicker tread pattern. A slicker, pavement tread pattern make look like it won't provide necessary traction, however, less "knobbiness" on a tire means more rubber to contact the ground, which translates to better traction.

Get in where you fit in...

Before purchasing a tire, especially a fat tire, make sure that it will fit your frame and your fork. Some may not. And remember, not all tire widths are the same from different manufacturers - a 2.4 tire from one company may be different than a 2.4 from another company. Research the inflated widths of various tires before purchasing.
Crank it up
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BMX Cranks come in three styles: 1-piece cranks, 2-piece cranks and 3-piece cranks. While many of us rode 1-piece cranks 20 years ago, they are obsolete in BMX these days, even on low-end completes. We used loose-ball bearing American bottom brackets (I will cover bottom brackets later).

The popular variety are 2 and 3-piece cranks. Both are comprised of three pieces: the left side crank arm, the right side crank arm, and the spindle. On a 2-piece crankset, the spindle is pressed in to one side, while the other side is separate. On a 3-piece crankset, both crank arms are separate from the spindle.

Spindles generally come in three sizes which coincide with the different bottom bracket bearing sizes: 19mm, 22mm and 24mm. Crank arms are retained onto the spindle with splines, offered in 8 and 48 count (the popular Primo Hollowbite crankset comes in a square taper variety). Often times, crank arms will require a special tool to "pull" the crank off the spindle for removal.

Crank arms are also offered in different lengths, from as short as 145mm to as long as 190mm. Shorter cranks are often used by flatland riders who spend less time on the pedals and more time on their pegs. They desire a crankset that is compact so they won't get in the way while doing tricks.

A popular crank arm length for most riders is 170mm - 180mm. Anything longer than that may be considered for riders with very long inseams. Be aware that long crank arms and short chain stays can result in your heel hitting the rear peg while pedaling (if you decide to run pegs).

Snapping/breaking cranks can happen, but it is very rare. A high-end crankset with a good spindle will truly withstand a lot of abuse from landings, stalls, grinds and bails.
Get a handle on things
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Shadow Conspiracy 2-piece bars
Handlebars haven't changed that drastically since the 80's and 90's, but some changes have occurred: especially in the construction and geometry. As always, they have remained 7/8" diameter and made of steel. Like BMX frames and forks, freestyle BMX handlebars also come in Hi-Ten and chromoly, with butting and heat treatment as higher-end options. For racing, aluminum and carbon are available, but I would not recommend those materials for freestyle.

Vital BMX does a wonderful job at explaining geometry and what to look for HERE. The current trend in BMX handlebars are wide and tall, which I personally like. However, some handlebars are starting to get into the 10" and 11" rise, which may be taking the trend a little too far, especially when rise and can adjusted via the stem.

The only thing Vital doesn't cover is the difference between street/park/trail handlebars and flatland handlebars. Although more flatlanders are now using street handlebars, flatland handlebars usually have a very minimal sweep and a low cross bar. This is so a rider can feel virtually no difference if the handlebar is pointed forward or backwards; the low cross bar is for clearance - so one can get their leg up-and-over the handlebar more easily.
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Diamondback 4-piece bars
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Odyssey Chase Gouin Flatland bars (notice the low cross bar for clearance)
Small parts
Brakes
Gone are the days of side-pull brakes, although they are still available for those wanting to build a vintage bike. The standard brake set-up are "u-brakes" for BMX which offer a very strong brake response. If you choose to run brake(s), I recommend going with a higher-end brake with machined brake arms (as opposed to cast brake arms).
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Brake Levers
Brake levers come in a variety of lengths and styles, but only a few companies make levers for both the right and left side - most will only offer a right side lever for a rear brake. Unfortunately, not many riders ride a front brake these days, so your options are limited. When choosing a brake lever, make sure you choose one that is "u-brake compatible". If you purchase an incompatible brake lever, your brake will not work well - if at all.
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Brake Pads
Brake pads come in a variety of compounds to be used for specific styles of riding. Some brake pads are softer and grip very well (i.e. clear colored brake pads) and some are a little harder compound, better for feathering the brake. Make sure to research the company's pad compound color chart to help you decide what's best for you.
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Stems
BMX stems come in two versions: top load and front load. The difference being how the handlebars sit in the stem. A top load stem will generally raise the handlebar height. When choosing your stem, make sure to look at the length and rise specs, as these two aspects change your bike handling. A shorter length stem will lend to quicker steering, and faster bar-spin type tricks; a longer stem will lend to slower steering with better stability. Flatland riders will often go with a very minimal length stem - I have seen stems as short as NO length - with the handlebar clamped directly above the headset
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Headsets
BMX headsets will generally be a "Campy" style, or integrated headset. While some frames accept a standard headset (with press-fit cups, like what we rode back in the day) and internal headsets, it is rare to find a freestyle BMX frame that uses those nowadays. Modern BMX headsets are 1 1/8" "threadless", meaning they do not require a threaded nut; they are compressed down and held together by tension on the stem bolts. This is a much better system than the threaded headsets we used 20 years ago, and require less maintenance due to most being sealed bearings.
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Brake Cables and Detanglers
Brake cables have not changed at all, except being stronger in both the internal cable and the housing. Housing mostly comes teflon coated, which allows for smoother operation with minimal lubrication.

Detanglers and the cable system have also remained untouched in terms of technology - yet now are offered in sealed bearing versions and are much stronger than the old gyro detanglers we used. ACS rotors are now relics of the past and mostly vintage collector items.
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Grips
Grips come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, lengths and diameters. Some riders prefer a thin diameter grip, and others like a thick diameter grip. Grips are offered with a flange or without a flange. Grips can be installed by pushing them on with an air compressor or rubbing alcohol, and some are "lock-on" grips, which require a tool to install. Since handlebars are all universally 7/8" diameter, you can use MTB grips if you so choose.
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Pedals
Pedals come in two spindle sizes: 9/16" for 2 and 3-piece cranks, 1/2" for 1-piece cranks. While alloy pedals (what most of us rode 20 years ago) are still available, nylon/plastic pedals are now very popular. They are inexpensive, slide well (for tricks like pedal grinds), and are less damaging to the shins than metal pedals with metal pins.
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Sprockets
You may have noticed that sprockets have gotten smaller. This is due to "micro gearing" (which will be explained below). Hi-end sprockets are made of 7075 Aluminum or heat-treated 4130 chromoly. 6061 Aluminum is a softer metal and does not fair well against BMX sprocket abuse. Sprockets may be attached to the crank arm with a bolt (called "bolt-drive") or be driven by the splines on the actual crank spindle via splines (called "spline drive"). Both systems work well, but I personally prefer spline-drive sprockets.

Sprockets are also available with an integrated bash guard, allowing for more chain protection.
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Seats, Posts and Clamps
The most popular seats and seat posts are now "pivotal", meaning the seat is attached to the seat post via a single bolt running through the center of the seat and is retained via a spline set-up. "Tri-pod" and conventional "rail" seats and seat posts are still available, yet less popular. Since seats play less of a role in freestyle riding than before, manufacturers are finding ways to save weight and parts and now offer seat/seat post "combos" which the seat and seat post are molded into one piece.

While some frames require a seat post clamp, many have an "integrated" seat post clamp, meaning the clamp is built right into the frame, saving weight and eliminating the need to purchase an additional part.
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Pegs
Pegs come in three materials: steel, plastic sleeved and aluminum. Street/park pegs are designed for the abuse of grinding and stalls and offer no knurling or grip for standing on. Street/park pegs usually come in steel or plastic sleeved. Flatland pegs are mostly aluminum and come knurled. A rider may use street pegs for flatland and wrap them with grip tape found at the local hardware store.

Plastic sleeved pegs are metal pegs wrapped in a replaceable plastic body. Plastic sleeved pegs are less damaging to surfaces, lighter in weight and generally slide better than steel and aluminum. For a lower cost, the sleeves can be replaced when worn through.

Unlike what we rode 20 years ago, pegs no longer come threaded; they slip-on, over the axle and bolted on with the axle nut.
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Bottom Bracket Bearings
Bottom Bracket Bearings come in three versions for freestyle BMX: Standard American, Mid and Spanish. Standard American are the largest bearings we used back in the 80's, 90's and into the 2000's. They can be loose ball bearing or sealed. Mid are the BB bearings you typically see on freestyle BMX bikes today, and are pressed into the bottom bracket on the frame, with the crank spindle going through. Spanish BB bearings are the smallest of the three and are typically threaded on. BB bearings accommodate 19mm or 22mm spindles, while larger crank spindles are being introduced into the market.

There is a lot of debate about which is the strongest of the three BB bearings. Mid seems to be the most popular, while it compromises the strength qualities of the larger American BB and the preferred lightweight qualities of the smaller Spanish BB.
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Chains
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Chains come in a variety of colors and styles, yet there are specifics to BMX chains that require attention for anybody building a bike. There are two types of BMX chains: "traditional" and "half link". Traditional chains are what we rode for many years and have worked well. However, with the introduction of micro-gearing (explained below) and short frame dropouts, half link chains have become increasingly popular. Chains are held together by one single retaining system: in traditional chains it is commonly a "master link" (which must be installed directional) and half link chains commonly have a "master pin" or retaining pin.

Micro-gearing is a tight wrap, and traditional chains make this very inefficient, which is why half link chains work well for small cogs and sprockets. Half link chains also allow for incremental adjustment of chain length (by half links, as opposed to full links) so riders can fine tune their wheelbase much easier with a half link chain.

While many riders still use traditional chains, a half link chain, when used with micro gearing, is a more efficient set-up. Half link chains are directional and must be installed correctly to function properly.

Chains must be maintained to insure a happy drivetrain. use a bicycle specific chain lube (do NOT use motor oil) to lubricate your chain periodically. If you ride in dirt, cleaning and lubing your chain will be required for a longer drive train life.

Chain size, Chain line and Chain tension

Chains come in two sizes: 1/8" and 3/32" which refers to the width of the links in the chain. Since BMX requires a burlier, stronger chain that can stand up to abuse, most BMX chains come in 1/8" size. Some riders will use 3/32" width chains to save weight, but the advantage is minimal. When choosing a chain, you must make sure your sprocket and cogs will be compatible. While most all BMX sprockets and cogs are compatible with 1/8" chains, 3/32" chains will NOT be compatible with 1/8" sprockets and cogs. Here are some chain width rules to note:

• 1/8" chains WILL work with 1/8" sprockets and cogs
• 3/32" chains WILL work with 3/32" sprockets and cogs
• 1/8" chains WILL work with 3/32" AND 1/8" sprockets and cogs
• 3/32" chains WILL NOT work with 1/8" sprocket and cogs

"Chain line" is the proper alignment of your chain going from your rear cog to your sprocket. Generally, you can eye-ball it by looking directly above - but this isn't the ultimate way of determining proper chain line. If you look at your chain from directly above, and it appears to be "cockeyed" - your chain line is off. Some riders get very anal about this and use calculations and such, but typically it is not very difficult to get it right because the 1/8" width of the chain gives lateral allowance. Proper chain line will insure efficient pedaling, proper wear of drivetrain, less drivetrain noise and less chances of dropping a chain (having the chain fall off). This can be adjusted at the crank arm by adding or subtracting spacers on the crank spindle, adjusting the crank arm laterally. If your chain is falling off or your drivetrain is unusually noisy, your chain line may be off.

"Chain tension" refers to the tension of your chain when wrapped around the sprocket and cog. Many riders believe that a tight chain is the "best" set up - however they are very wrong. While they may do this to prevent a chain drop, they are not employing a proper chain line. Chains must have enough tension to remain on, but not so tight that it harms the drivetrain. A chain that is too tight damages the hub and prematurely wears the cog, sprocket and chain. In other words, do not run an extremely tight chain. Proper chain tension allows for approximately 12mm of vertical movement ("play") when wrapped around the cog and sprocket.

Park Tools has a great tutorial (among others) on the proper chain tension and how to achieve it.

For reference please follow this link: Chain Tension on One-Speed Bikes
Understanding Gearing
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Gearing is an important aspect in freestyle BMX, since it has such an impact on the overall ride. Some - like myself - prefer a "taller" gear, meaning a larger ratio between the teeth count of the sprocket and the rear cog. "Short" gearing is that of a closer ratio between the teeth count of the sprocket and rear cog.

Tall gearing = harder to pedal = less cranks to get up to speed
Short gearing = easier to pedal = more cranks to get up to speed

Generally, flatland riders will prefer a short gearing; this allows them to ride out of tricks easier, because a short gearing is easier to pedal. Anybody else who wants to get up to speed faster or just prefer to "mash" will go with a taller gearing. Most rear hub cogs (regardless of whether it's a freewheel or freecoaster) come in two teeth counts: 9T and 10T. From there, the sprocket teeth count will determine short or tall gearing. The more teeth in the sprocket, the taller the gear ratio; the less teeth, the shorter the gear ratio.

Sometimes, chain and frame dropout length will determine your fate with gearing. Too big of a sprocket, and your chain length/dropout allowance may become compromised; too small and you may have a chain length that is too long for the dropouts. Most modern BMX freestyle frames will allow for a range of sprocket sizes which translates to proper chain lengths.

Typical street and park riders will choose a 25T-28T sprocket; trail riders slightly taller in the 28T-30T range, and flatland riders much shorter with 18T-23T sprockets.

Note: Since flatland riders choose very small sprockets, the bolt position for a bolt-on sprocket may not be compatible with some cranks. If you are choosing a micro-sprocket (18T-23T), make sure that the crank arm you pair it with says "micro-drive compatible". This is a non-issue with spline-drive sprockets.

There are other factors that will make a bike "harder" or "easier" to pedal, including crank arm length and wheel size. While BMX bikes have 20" wheels, tires will change the overall diameter of the wheel when inflated. The overall larger wheel size (rim + inflated tire) will feel slightly taller than a shorter overall diameter. These are small differences in feel and have less affect on pedaling than actual cogs and sprockets. In BMX racing, gearing is a huge factor, more so than in freestyle. Racers will change out gearing specific to individual tracks - freestyle riders will usually pick a gearing they are comfortable with and stick with it.

Micro-gearing Explained

You may have wondered why BMX has abandoned the 44T sprocket X 16T freewheel gearing ratio we used to ride. Gone are those huge "pie-plate" sprockets - and for good reason. One, they were heavy and got in the way. Two, they aren't necessary. Somebody had figured out that the actual gearing of 44X16 is nearly identical to a smaller, lighter 25X9 combination. With a 25X9 gearing, you will also require less chain, resulting in lighter weight. Thus, less material required in the overall drivetrain is a more efficient set-up.