Ideal Geo Discussion

Mine would be pretty much what I have now, with a few minor changes

bars:
-26" x 8.66 x 4° x 12°, with a slightly thinner crossbar. so what I have now but with a tinyyy bit smaller crossbar, I like the dimensions & smallness but I don't like how big the crossbar looks personally

fork:
-160mm steerer tube, I always cut mine down anyway but I don't want it too short in case I would change something up & need it longer. I'd also say lines every 5mm for cutting marks, but they'd probably get removed from the stem after awhile so scratch that.
32mm offset, I like what I have now. Tire clearance to fit at 2.4" tires cause I ride the Fit FAF 2.25" in the front which gets slightly bigger than 2.3" when inflated so I'd like the clearance. and 4mm dropouts, never had a problem bending them before. Oh and H24 compression cap with a 6mm slot, in my opinion the ideal size for that.

frame: again similar to what I have now, but with slight changes
-20.6" TT, 74.5° HT, 71° ST, 13.5"-13.75" CS, 11.75" BBH, 8.5" SOH, 14mm x 8mm dropouts, no chain tensioners. Oh and the wishbone style CS junction.

I think that's about it, I'm not a huge geometry buff so a lot of it doesn't really matter much to me cause I know I can used to it, but I feel my changes here would be a little bit better than what I have now for me.

Frame:

20.937" top tube
74 head tube
13.75" slammed chain stay
11.625" bottom bracket
9.5" standover
71 seat tube

Smooth 4.875" long 1 5/8" diameter headtube with no gyro tabs
1 3/8" double butted top tube with no gusset, remains round at seat tube
1 1/2" straight gauge down tube with large gusset
Externally double butted seat tube
Integrated pivotal post, 3"-ish above seat stays
Investment cast drop wishbone (Cba to explain this further. Basically makes a stronger frame while still allowing cs mounts)
7/8" to 3/4" tapered straight gauge .035" seat stays
Modified SFA style seat stay junction with wider bends for strength
Investment cast seat stay bridge (Straight near the seat tube, but the part towards the dropout follows the curve of the tire for more stiffness and weld contact)
7/8" to 3/4" tapered chain stays, .065" at bend for dent resistance and brake stiffness, .049" for the rest
Internally machined 73mm wide Mid BB
Angled barrel adjuster
2 loop cable guides
Angled, welded brake mounts on chainstays
5/16" thick dropouts with integrated chain tensioners
Top and down tube meet to form a triangle, seat stays meet to form a triangle, and the stays meet at the dropout to form triangles
Post weld heat treated
Post weld machining on head tube and bottom bracket

Bars:
8.625" rise
28.5" wide
3 upsweep
12 backsweep

Four piece
Quad butted 3/4" diameter crossbar (.065"-.049"-.035"-.049"-.065")
3" radius bends
Doubled butted 1-1/8" diameter clamp tube
Each of the bend tubes are quad butted
Threaded bar ends
Bend tubes are welded to the top of the clamp tube for strength
171mm of grip area before the bend
Other shit I cba to remember

Wouldn't make forks. Just stick with Odyssey forks. Also, yes, the bars would require a different size stem. Got that covered.

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, 70 degree seat tube, traditional clamp slot (fuck.integrated, seriously),
hourglass head tube, and in chrome blue.

Nine inch tall, twenty nine wide, four up, nine or ten back, two piece, has to have the cursive letter sticker like odyssey and shadow does, I just love it, and chrome.

For forks there isn't much to say. The r32's fit my needs, they're proven, and even though I argued against going with everything in bike parts and trying something new (or some shit along the lines of that) these fit my needs the best. But chrome.

biggybuggy wrote:

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, ...more

biggybuggy wrote:

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, 70 degree seat tube, traditional clamp slot (fuck.integrated, seriously),
hourglass head tube, and in chrome blue.

Nine inch tall, twenty nine wide, four up, nine or ten back, two piece, has to have the cursive letter sticker like odyssey and shadow does, I just love it, and chrome.

For forks there isn't much to say. The r32's fit my needs, they're proven, and even though I argued against going with everything in bike parts and trying something new (or some shit along the lines of that) these fit my needs the best. But chrome.

...more

Holy fuck, read Ohioans post. Goddamn. So much to a frame. But it'd be so sweet.

biggybuggy wrote:

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, ...more

biggybuggy wrote:

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, 70 degree seat tube, traditional clamp slot (fuck.integrated, seriously),
hourglass head tube, and in chrome blue.

Nine inch tall, twenty nine wide, four up, nine or ten back, two piece, has to have the cursive letter sticker like odyssey and shadow does, I just love it, and chrome.

For forks there isn't much to say. The r32's fit my needs, they're proven, and even though I argued against going with everything in bike parts and trying something new (or some shit along the lines of that) these fit my needs the best. But chrome.

...more

You seem to be riding ohioan's dick pretty damn hard

HT = 74.666
TT = 20.666
Stand over = 8.666
CS = 13.666
BBH = 11.666

41.666 thermal heat treating?

Engraved pentagram on the HT.
black with small inverted rasta-crosses everywhere as the paint job.

sicksicksicks!!!

Not getting into tubing diameter or most of the other features because ain't nobody got time fo dat.

Frame:
74.25 HT
22.5 TT
14.125" CS
9.375" SOH
11.625" BB
71 STA
Clearance for a 33T sprocket
Welded CS Mounts
Welded stops and guides
Made in USA

Bars:
9.375" Rise
29" Wide
3 up
11 back
Made in USA

biggybuggy wrote:

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, ...more

biggybuggy wrote:

20.6 top tube, 74.5 ht, 13.7 cs, WELDED cs brake mounts, welded cable guides, wishbones up top and bottom, 9 inch stand over, 70 degree seat tube, traditional clamp slot (fuck.integrated, seriously),
hourglass head tube, and in chrome blue.

Nine inch tall, twenty nine wide, four up, nine or ten back, two piece, has to have the cursive letter sticker like odyssey and shadow does, I just love it, and chrome.

For forks there isn't much to say. The r32's fit my needs, they're proven, and even though I argued against going with everything in bike parts and trying something new (or some shit along the lines of that) these fit my needs the best. But chrome.

...more

tomdon wrote:

You seem to be riding ohioan's dick pretty damn hard

tomdon wrote:

You seem to be riding ohioan's dick pretty damn hard

...more

I have to agree Odyssey forks are proven, no doubt that they are some of the best. But there could be better out there and I think we should expand past odyssey /of thread. If that's what you're referring to then I might as well be riding his dick, maybe not. And if it's for something else, fuck me, whatever.

Bars:
4 piece
8.5" rise
27" wide
4 up sweep
10 back sweep
Large raduis bends
Straight gauge heat treated

Frame:
74.5 HT
20.9 TT
13.5-13.75 CS
9" stand over
11.5 BB height
Wishbone SS and CS
TT gusset and down tube gusset would be like the S&M sabbath frame
Welded CS mounts and guides
Straight gauge heat treated

I'd also have some sort of custom SS bridge. Always thought a little devil logo would be sick

Forks:
Just forks


Everything American made

Frame
75.35 HT, hydroformed/hourglass (think wtp sterling frame)
21.25 TT
11.75 BB, mid, also hourglass
8.75 SOH
13.45-13.85 CS
Enough clearance for fat tire slammed
Integrated seat clamp (never had a problem with one)
Post weld machining on the HT and BB

Bars: 4pc 4130 chromo heat treated
8.9" x 28"
10.5 back sweep
4 up

Forks: 4130 chromo heat treated
22mm offset
Clearance for 2.5 tires(Fly Rampera or Premium Refuse resists)
no hole in dropouts or in steerer tube
odyssey style bolt

Frame: 4130 chromo heat treated
HT: 75
TT:20.9"
Standover: 9.2"
CS: 13.2" slammed
BB Height: 11.6"

Removable mounts
Hourglass HT with taller stack height
Integrated Chain tensioners
Mid BB
Integrated clamp
Double gussets

All USA made and in raw!

A Barcode with an ATF tubeset.
I love the geometry, but I think it would look sick with smaller tubes, and the tire/crank clearance would be better.

Other than that, forks are forks, and Ody Sweepstakes bars cut to like 28 are perfect to me.

Frame:
Tt: 21
Ht: 75
St: 70
Stand over: 9.3
Chain stay: 13.2 slammed
Bb: 11.6
Hourglass head tube
Chain tensioners

Bars:
Rise: 9
Width: 28
Upsweep: 4
Back sweep: 10

Forks
Offset : 24
38mm crown
No holes
2.4 tire clearance

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass Headtube
Hydroformed Top Gusset
Wave Downtube
Straight Gauged Tubing
Easterns New Welding
Integrated Clamp
Cults Anti Dent tubing (Chainstays, BB and Downtube... It's the funny looking tubing)
Clearance for up to 2.3
Sunday Hollow dropout, but invested cast with the cult tubing with built in chain tensioners
With the sunday rust resistant coating
Square Chain stays like the wtp patron
Strongest frame on the market? i think so

ThugLifeBmxRiderz wrote:

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass ...more

ThugLifeBmxRiderz wrote:

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass Headtube
Hydroformed Top Gusset
Wave Downtube
Straight Gauged Tubing
Easterns New Welding
Integrated Clamp
Cults Anti Dent tubing (Chainstays, BB and Downtube... It's the funny looking tubing)
Clearance for up to 2.3
Sunday Hollow dropout, but invested cast with the cult tubing with built in chain tensioners
With the sunday rust resistant coating
Square Chain stays like the wtp patron
Strongest frame on the market? i think so

...more

by the way, easterns "new weld tech" is just proper prep and tube profiling/shaping in preparation for welding

FRAME: Maximus!

75.15 headtube (offset thickness) (hourglass shaped)
20.85 Toptube (triple butted and tapered, with indent on the top of the tube, to prevent denting, with gusset with M engraved on it)
13.0-13.6 with integrated chain tensioners, also D shaped and the OUTSIDE wall is very thick and the inside is thin, tapered.
70 degree Seat tube. (tapered and double butted)
8mm thick dropouts, heat treated and hardened, made so they grip the nuts and lock nut better (///)
Special indented downtube (similar to fit indent cranks) to prevent denting with an extra long gusset with a big M on it engraved.
Seatstays need to be double butted, and ultra tapered.
Rust proofed. 4140 Super heat treated.
Wide Mid BB, hourglass shape.

Just some Odyssey R25s. haha

Bars are gonna be 4 piece, 8.76 height, 3 up, 10 back, triple butted crossbar, straightguage (real thick) part, and straight guage sides.
EXTRA large welds on everything, gussets are both sunday style, like how they cover more. And all tubes gotta be properly prepped.

ThugLifeBmxRiderz wrote:

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass ...more

ThugLifeBmxRiderz wrote:

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass Headtube
Hydroformed Top Gusset
Wave Downtube
Straight Gauged Tubing
Easterns New Welding
Integrated Clamp
Cults Anti Dent tubing (Chainstays, BB and Downtube... It's the funny looking tubing)
Clearance for up to 2.3
Sunday Hollow dropout, but invested cast with the cult tubing with built in chain tensioners
With the sunday rust resistant coating
Square Chain stays like the wtp patron
Strongest frame on the market? i think so

...more

Integrated clamp doesn't clamp well and can weaken the frame.
Cult's "anti-dent" tubing is extremely low quality tubing, so expect your rear end to fall off.
As mentioned before, Eastern's welding is just how welds have been done by everyone else, Eastern is just catching up.
Hydroformed gussets are shit.
Investment cast dropout will be weaker than a forged dropout, and how do you expect a dropout to be made from tubing?

ThugLifeBmxRiderz wrote:

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass ...more

ThugLifeBmxRiderz wrote:

SPECS
TT: 20.75
HA: 75.5
SA: 69*
Standover: 8.8
CS: 13.1 - 13.5
BBH: 11.7
Mid BB
FEATURES FROM FRONT TO BACK
Hourglass Headtube
Hydroformed Top Gusset
Wave Downtube
Straight Gauged Tubing
Easterns New Welding
Integrated Clamp
Cults Anti Dent tubing (Chainstays, BB and Downtube... It's the funny looking tubing)
Clearance for up to 2.3
Sunday Hollow dropout, but invested cast with the cult tubing with built in chain tensioners
With the sunday rust resistant coating
Square Chain stays like the wtp patron
Strongest frame on the market? i think so

...more

Xxohioanxx wrote:

Integrated clamp doesn't clamp well and can weaken the frame.
Cult's "anti-dent" tubing is extremely low quality tubing, so ...more

Xxohioanxx wrote:

Integrated clamp doesn't clamp well and can weaken the frame.
Cult's "anti-dent" tubing is extremely low quality tubing, so expect your rear end to fall off.
As mentioned before, Eastern's welding is just how welds have been done by everyone else, Eastern is just catching up.
Hydroformed gussets are shit.
Investment cast dropout will be weaker than a forged dropout, and how do you expect a dropout to be made from tubing?

...more

plus if you do any rocket tricks you'll scrape the skin off your entire calves
cast steel is much more brittle than forged
would you rather snap a dropout or bend one off the austin church gap?

Casting is not necessarily more brittle than forged, and a "forged" dropout is generally just cut from rolled plate.

Good castings make really nice and strong parts, but are generally cost prohibitive.

tecnic1 wrote:

Casting is not necessarily more brittle than forged, and a "forged" dropout is generally just cut from rolled plate.

Good ...more

tecnic1 wrote:

Casting is not necessarily more brittle than forged, and a "forged" dropout is generally just cut from rolled plate.

Good castings make really nice and strong parts, but are generally cost prohibitive.

...more

yeah not true
"Forging offers uniformity of composition and structure. Forging results in metallurgical recrystalisation and grain
refinement as a result of the thermal cycle and deformation process. This strengthens the resulting steel product particularly in terms of impact and shear strength.

Forged steel is generally stronger and more reliable than castings and plate steel due to the fact that the grain flows of the steel are altered, conforming to the shape of the part.

The advantages of forging include:

Generally tougher than alternatives
Will handle impact better than castings
The nature of forging excludes the occurence of porosity, shrinkage, cavities and cold pour issues.
The tight grain structure of forgings making it mechanically strong. There is less need for expensive alloys to attain high strength components."

bmxsteve99 wrote:

yeah not true
"Forging offers uniformity of composition and structure. Forging results in metallurgical recrystalisation and ...more

bmxsteve99 wrote:

yeah not true
"Forging offers uniformity of composition and structure. Forging results in metallurgical recrystalisation and grain
refinement as a result of the thermal cycle and deformation process. This strengthens the resulting steel product particularly in terms of impact and shear strength.

Forged steel is generally stronger and more reliable than castings and plate steel due to the fact that the grain flows of the steel are altered, conforming to the shape of the part.

The advantages of forging include:

Generally tougher than alternatives
Will handle impact better than castings
The nature of forging excludes the occurence of porosity, shrinkage, cavities and cold pour issues.
The tight grain structure of forgings making it mechanically strong. There is less need for expensive alloys to attain high strength components."

...more

There are a few things you don't get when you copypasta some stuff from Wikipedia.

First, forging does improve the mechanical properties of some metals by affecting the grain structure, but forging is one of several ways to affect grain structure (and subsequently mechanical properties). Heat treating is another. Work hardening is another. That's not the point. The point is that when you need to manufacture a part to meet a strength requirement, there is more than one way to do so.

Next, each of these processes impact different mechanical properties in different ways. Note that the article you copied singled out shear and impact strength. That's pretty cool, but in a bike frame we are more concerned with tensile strength and elongivity. That is how much force you need to bend your frame, and how much will it flex before it bends. Shear strength is something different, and I'm not sure I've heard the term impact strength used before. I can surmise what homie was getting at though.

Finally, that entire article is a bit of a generalization, and I think its worded as such. Yes, your cast iron skillet is gonna get raped mechanical property wise by some pretty basic cold roll steel, but casting can actually get you some pretty good mechanical properties, if you can spend a bit of money.

You have to also keep in mind that casting is just one process a part would go through from raw material to finished part. Realistically, if you have a piece of cast cromoly, and a similar piece of forged cromoly, and you heated them both up to the recrystallization temperature, once they cooled they would have simular mechanical properties.

I was actually involved in designing a part of a stainless steel pressure vessle at work, and we evaluated casting and forging, and we ended up forging only because it was going to take too long to build the molds for the casting. Strength wise, after heat treatment, it was a push.