Is the Ribcage worth it?

Related:
Create New Tag

3/9/2018 2:00 PM

So as some of you may know, I have a cassette wheel and a coaster wheel.... I'm really liking the coaster and I'm thinking I'll stick with it... so, the coaster wheel is an Odyssey Clutch V2 laced to a Gsport Rollcage, and my cassette wheel is a Profile Mini laced to a Gsport Ribcage, so would it be worth it to switch the rims out? Is the Ribcage THAT much better? Thanks guys!smile

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 2:16 PM

The roll cage is a solid rim, I mean spencer runs them so you know they are strong.
I would say wait and see if the roll cage needs truing/tightening every two or so weeks. If its every two weeks then it might be worth swapping them.

|

Hmmm

3/9/2018 2:22 PM

Edman123 wrote:

The roll cage is a solid rim, I mean spencer runs them so you know they are strong.
I would say wait and see if the roll cage needs truing/tightening every two or so weeks. If its every two weeks then it might be worth swapping them.

Yeah true that's what I though too.... I'm like if Spencer runs em I should be fine! But yeah I would rather have the Ribcage just becasue, but then I'd have to get new spoke too, so like $30 for spokes, and then to go to the shop to get my rims switched, so I haven't had any problems with the Rollcage, so I think I may just keep the Rollcage.... even though I'd rather have the Ribcage.... I mean I take care of my wheels often and I only weigh about 130lbs so I don't think it'll be worth it to switch them tbh...

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 2:45 PM

I’ve had 2 or 3 rollcages in the past they kicked ass , just recently made the switch to 2 birdcages stoked to see how they hold up

|

3/9/2018 2:57 PM

eskimojay wrote:

I’ve had 2 or 3 rollcages in the past they kicked ass , just recently made the switch to 2 birdcages stoked to see how they hold up

Oh I'm sure if the Rollcages hold up for you and Spencer I'll definitely be fine LOLgrin I suck ass at riding lmao

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 4:03 PM

Not worth it imho. If it was free I'd say do it, but like you were saying it costs money to swap spokes and stuff, and there is only a fairly small difference between a roll and a ribcage.

|

3/9/2018 4:35 PM

Ribcage is substantially stronger. No if's and's or but's. The Rollcage is a pretty generic double wall rim, the only thing that makes it different from every other brand's rim is that it's cross laced. The
Ribcage, on the other hand, is built & proven to be nearly indestructible even to the most insane riding.

The Gsport Ribcage is the Shadow Interlock Supreme of Rims. Sure it costs more & it's heavier, but you'll have a hell of a time trying to break one. & if you do manage to, their warranty is amazing.

It doesn't make much sense to run the heavier and stronger rim in the front imo, unless you do tons of nose wheelie tricks and land front end heavy a lot. I personally would switch them around for the sake of it. That's like riding a skinny tire in the front and fat tire in the back to me haha

|




Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


3/9/2018 5:00 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/8/2018 9:35 PM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Ribcage is substantially stronger. No if's and's or but's. The Rollcage is a pretty generic double wall rim, the only thing that makes it different from every other brand's rim is that it's cross laced. The
Ribcage, on the other hand, is built & proven to be nearly indestructible even to the most insane riding.

The Gsport Ribcage is the Shadow Interlock Supreme of Rims. Sure it costs more & it's heavier, but you'll have a hell of a time trying to break one. & if you do manage to, their warranty is amazing.

It doesn't make much sense to run the heavier and stronger rim in the front imo, unless you do tons of nose wheelie tricks and land front end heavy a lot. I personally would switch them around for the sake of it. That's like riding a skinny tire in the front and fat tire in the back to me haha

Yeah I see your point.... but also, I'm 15, 130lbs.... Im not sure how much damage I can do to a rim tbh... I maintain my wheels and tighten spokes when necessary every few weeks... and I'm sure if I could somehow break it, I'm almost certain Phillip at Odyssey will help me out lmaolaughing

But if I could build wheels properly and could get spokes for free or really cheap, I'd for sure do it... but I suck ass at building wheels... maybe I'll hit up my local shop, see how much they'd charge to switch the rims around, if it's somewhat cheap I'll do it... if not, I'll just leave it... But thanks dude!

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 5:29 PM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Ribcage is substantially stronger. No if's and's or but's. The Rollcage is a pretty generic double wall rim, the only thing that makes it different from every other brand's rim is that it's cross laced. The
Ribcage, on the other hand, is built & proven to be nearly indestructible even to the most insane riding.

The Gsport Ribcage is the Shadow Interlock Supreme of Rims. Sure it costs more & it's heavier, but you'll have a hell of a time trying to break one. & if you do manage to, their warranty is amazing.

It doesn't make much sense to run the heavier and stronger rim in the front imo, unless you do tons of nose wheelie tricks and land front end heavy a lot. I personally would switch them around for the sake of it. That's like riding a skinny tire in the front and fat tire in the back to me haha

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yeah I see your point.... but also, I'm 15, 130lbs.... Im not sure how much damage I can do to a rim tbh... I maintain my wheels and tighten spokes when necessary every few weeks... and I'm sure if I could somehow break it, I'm almost certain Phillip at Odyssey will help me out lmaolaughing

But if I could build wheels properly and could get spokes for free or really cheap, I'd for sure do it... but I suck ass at building wheels... maybe I'll hit up my local shop, see how much they'd charge to switch the rims around, if it's somewhat cheap I'll do it... if not, I'll just leave it... But thanks dude!

Tbh I wouldn't bother with new spokes unless yours are breaking or in bad shape. But I would (personally) seriously think about putting the wider, heavier, & stronger rim in the back, maybe that's just my OCD lol.

Here's what I would do if I were you (and have done this many times before for other people..)

1. Put pieces of tape on the crosses of the spokes in your front wheel.

2. Loosen all the nipples in your front wheel (take the nips all the way off, the tape will hold your spokes in the right pattern until you're ready to build the front wheel.)

3. Take the front rim & set it on top of back rim, with the valve holes lined up. Put a couple pieces of tape on the rims just to hold them together while you build the wheel.

4. Loosen each spoke from the back wheel one at a time and move it to its corresponding spot on the Ribcage. (Once you've done this 36 times, your rear hub will now be laced to your front rim.)

5. Take the front hub, with all the spokes attached & already in the correct pattern (thanks to the tape on the crosses,) and begin building it to your rear rim. This should be pretty self explanatory, especially with having your new back wheel laced up to look at. (When you begin your new front wheel, start at the valve hole & make sure the valve hole goes between 2 parallel spokes & not inbetween cross spokes. Structurally it doesn't matter, but it will make airing up your tire a lot harder.)

Lastly, #1 thing to remember while building wheels is to tighten each & every nipple the exact same amount. So when you start (at the valve hole, for self-reference) you should tighten the nipple on to the spokes exactly 3 full turns, every nipple. So long as you keep all the nipples the same tension, your wheels should turn out great.

|




Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


3/9/2018 5:39 PM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Ribcage is substantially stronger. No if's and's or but's. The Rollcage is a pretty generic double wall rim, the only thing that makes it different from every other brand's rim is that it's cross laced. The
Ribcage, on the other hand, is built & proven to be nearly indestructible even to the most insane riding.

The Gsport Ribcage is the Shadow Interlock Supreme of Rims. Sure it costs more & it's heavier, but you'll have a hell of a time trying to break one. & if you do manage to, their warranty is amazing.

It doesn't make much sense to run the heavier and stronger rim in the front imo, unless you do tons of nose wheelie tricks and land front end heavy a lot. I personally would switch them around for the sake of it. That's like riding a skinny tire in the front and fat tire in the back to me haha

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yeah I see your point.... but also, I'm 15, 130lbs.... Im not sure how much damage I can do to a rim tbh... I maintain my wheels and tighten spokes when necessary every few weeks... and I'm sure if I could somehow break it, I'm almost certain Phillip at Odyssey will help me out lmaolaughing

But if I could build wheels properly and could get spokes for free or really cheap, I'd for sure do it... but I suck ass at building wheels... maybe I'll hit up my local shop, see how much they'd charge to switch the rims around, if it's somewhat cheap I'll do it... if not, I'll just leave it... But thanks dude!

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Tbh I wouldn't bother with new spokes unless yours are breaking or in bad shape. But I would (personally) seriously think about putting the wider, heavier, & stronger rim in the back, maybe that's just my OCD lol.

Here's what I would do if I were you (and have done this many times before for other people..)

1. Put pieces of tape on the crosses of the spokes in your front wheel.

2. Loosen all the nipples in your front wheel (take the nips all the way off, the tape will hold your spokes in the right pattern until you're ready to build the front wheel.)

3. Take the front rim & set it on top of back rim, with the valve holes lined up. Put a couple pieces of tape on the rims just to hold them together while you build the wheel.

4. Loosen each spoke from the back wheel one at a time and move it to its corresponding spot on the Ribcage. (Once you've done this 36 times, your rear hub will now be laced to your front rim.)

5. Take the front hub, with all the spokes attached & already in the correct pattern (thanks to the tape on the crosses,) and begin building it to your rear rim. This should be pretty self explanatory, especially with having your new back wheel laced up to look at. (When you begin your new front wheel, start at the valve hole & make sure the valve hole goes between 2 parallel spokes & not inbetween cross spokes. Structurally it doesn't matter, but it will make airing up your tire a lot harder.)

Lastly, #1 thing to remember while building wheels is to tighten each & every nipple the exact same amount. So when you start (at the valve hole, for self-reference) you should tighten the nipple on to the spokes exactly 3 full turns, every nipple. So long as you keep all the nipples the same tension, your wheels should turn out great.

Wait wait wait wait.... I just read that, did you say take the front rim off and put it on the back? Do you think I have the Ribcage in the front and the Rollcage in the rear? Right now, I have a Birdcage in the front and the Rollcage in the rear... if I had the Ribcage in the front and the Rollcage in the back, I'd DEFINATLY get them switched around becasue that would drive me nuts if a had the stronger rim in the front lmaolaughing

Or maybe it's just me and its late and I'm tired and I didn't 100% understand what you said lol

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 5:44 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yeah I see your point.... but also, I'm 15, 130lbs.... Im not sure how much damage I can do to a rim tbh... I maintain my wheels and tighten spokes when necessary every few weeks... and I'm sure if I could somehow break it, I'm almost certain Phillip at Odyssey will help me out lmaolaughing

But if I could build wheels properly and could get spokes for free or really cheap, I'd for sure do it... but I suck ass at building wheels... maybe I'll hit up my local shop, see how much they'd charge to switch the rims around, if it's somewhat cheap I'll do it... if not, I'll just leave it... But thanks dude!

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Tbh I wouldn't bother with new spokes unless yours are breaking or in bad shape. But I would (personally) seriously think about putting the wider, heavier, & stronger rim in the back, maybe that's just my OCD lol.

Here's what I would do if I were you (and have done this many times before for other people..)

1. Put pieces of tape on the crosses of the spokes in your front wheel.

2. Loosen all the nipples in your front wheel (take the nips all the way off, the tape will hold your spokes in the right pattern until you're ready to build the front wheel.)

3. Take the front rim & set it on top of back rim, with the valve holes lined up. Put a couple pieces of tape on the rims just to hold them together while you build the wheel.

4. Loosen each spoke from the back wheel one at a time and move it to its corresponding spot on the Ribcage. (Once you've done this 36 times, your rear hub will now be laced to your front rim.)

5. Take the front hub, with all the spokes attached & already in the correct pattern (thanks to the tape on the crosses,) and begin building it to your rear rim. This should be pretty self explanatory, especially with having your new back wheel laced up to look at. (When you begin your new front wheel, start at the valve hole & make sure the valve hole goes between 2 parallel spokes & not inbetween cross spokes. Structurally it doesn't matter, but it will make airing up your tire a lot harder.)

Lastly, #1 thing to remember while building wheels is to tighten each & every nipple the exact same amount. So when you start (at the valve hole, for self-reference) you should tighten the nipple on to the spokes exactly 3 full turns, every nipple. So long as you keep all the nipples the same tension, your wheels should turn out great.

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Wait wait wait wait.... I just read that, did you say take the front rim off and put it on the back? Do you think I have the Ribcage in the front and the Rollcage in the rear? Right now, I have a Birdcage in the front and the Rollcage in the rear... if I had the Ribcage in the front and the Rollcage in the back, I'd DEFINATLY get them switched around becasue that would drive me nuts if a had the stronger rim in the front lmaolaughing

Or maybe it's just me and its late and I'm tired and I didn't 100% understand what you said lol

No, I definitely thought you had a Ribcage in front and Rollcage in rear haha. My bad, must have not read your post thoroughly enough.

Rollcage rear and Birdcage front sounds like a great set up! The Ribcage is certainly stronger, but I wouldn't worry about it until you actually have an issue with breaking Rollcages. & if you do, I'm sure George will give you a sweet discount on a Ribcage!

|




Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


3/9/2018 5:46 PM

Also, I just talked to my LBS, they said they charge $50 to build a wheel... and I need 2 wheels built.... so I guess that answers my question lollaughing

And I'm not terribly hard on wheels, and I take care of my wheels as well... so I thibk the Rollcage will be fine for me, just the thing that pisses me off with the Rollcage is that dumbass little line indention thing in the center, because we have like hella pollen in the air and on the ground right now, and all the pollen got in that little line in the center so I had to get a q-tip and go around the whole rim to get all the pollen out... but whatever, I'll just deal with it lollaughing

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 5:51 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Also, I just talked to my LBS, they said they charge $50 to build a wheel... and I need 2 wheels built.... so I guess that answers my question lollaughing

And I'm not terribly hard on wheels, and I take care of my wheels as well... so I thibk the Rollcage will be fine for me, just the thing that pisses me off with the Rollcage is that dumbass little line indention thing in the center, because we have like hella pollen in the air and on the ground right now, and all the pollen got in that little line in the center so I had to get a q-tip and go around the whole rim to get all the pollen out... but whatever, I'll just deal with it lollaughing

Air compressor or a can of compressed air would probably work better for that than a q-tip

|




Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


3/9/2018 5:51 PM

I run a birdcage in front and Ribcage in back and I have a lot of confidence in the rim. I've clipped pretty bad and have been running lower pressure last 6 months or so and havent even trued it once. Had this wheelset since August I think. Haven't had to touch the birdcage either but I can just tell by the feel of my rear wheel that it's the strongest rim I've ever had. I wanted em on both wheels but thought it would be overkill. I used to run rhynolite xls on both wheels and was truing them every other session. Don't sell the cassette wheel and see if the rollcage lasts in meantime but if you want to put the effort in I'd definitely say switching em is worth it

|

@coupd_tat

3/9/2018 5:51 PM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Tbh I wouldn't bother with new spokes unless yours are breaking or in bad shape. But I would (personally) seriously think about putting the wider, heavier, & stronger rim in the back, maybe that's just my OCD lol.

Here's what I would do if I were you (and have done this many times before for other people..)

1. Put pieces of tape on the crosses of the spokes in your front wheel.

2. Loosen all the nipples in your front wheel (take the nips all the way off, the tape will hold your spokes in the right pattern until you're ready to build the front wheel.)

3. Take the front rim & set it on top of back rim, with the valve holes lined up. Put a couple pieces of tape on the rims just to hold them together while you build the wheel.

4. Loosen each spoke from the back wheel one at a time and move it to its corresponding spot on the Ribcage. (Once you've done this 36 times, your rear hub will now be laced to your front rim.)

5. Take the front hub, with all the spokes attached & already in the correct pattern (thanks to the tape on the crosses,) and begin building it to your rear rim. This should be pretty self explanatory, especially with having your new back wheel laced up to look at. (When you begin your new front wheel, start at the valve hole & make sure the valve hole goes between 2 parallel spokes & not inbetween cross spokes. Structurally it doesn't matter, but it will make airing up your tire a lot harder.)

Lastly, #1 thing to remember while building wheels is to tighten each & every nipple the exact same amount. So when you start (at the valve hole, for self-reference) you should tighten the nipple on to the spokes exactly 3 full turns, every nipple. So long as you keep all the nipples the same tension, your wheels should turn out great.

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Wait wait wait wait.... I just read that, did you say take the front rim off and put it on the back? Do you think I have the Ribcage in the front and the Rollcage in the rear? Right now, I have a Birdcage in the front and the Rollcage in the rear... if I had the Ribcage in the front and the Rollcage in the back, I'd DEFINATLY get them switched around becasue that would drive me nuts if a had the stronger rim in the front lmaolaughing

Or maybe it's just me and its late and I'm tired and I didn't 100% understand what you said lol

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

No, I definitely thought you had a Ribcage in front and Rollcage in rear haha. My bad, must have not read your post thoroughly enough.

Rollcage rear and Birdcage front sounds like a great set up! The Ribcage is certainly stronger, but I wouldn't worry about it until you actually have an issue with breaking Rollcages. & if you do, I'm sure George will give you a sweet discount on a Ribcage!

Ok good! That's what I thought!laughing My OCD would not let me have a Ribcage in the front and a Rollcage in the rear. If that were the case id have them switched around lol.... I like this set up too! The Birdcage in the front has given me no problems for the year or so I've been riding it... and the week or so I've been riding my Rollcage it's been fine to... I've thrown a couple REALLY bad 180s and the rim is still straight as fuck! And like you said, if I somehow manage to fuck up the Rollcage, I'm sure Odyssey will just send me a new wheel with a Clutch V2 to Ribcage! Even just a free or cheap Ribcage would be fine with me and just get it laced up! But To be real with my self and you, I think I'm going to have a hard fucking time to even just bend the rim slightly, let alone break it... As always Tim, I appreciate your help!smile

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 5:52 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Also, I just talked to my LBS, they said they charge $50 to build a wheel... and I need 2 wheels built.... so I guess that answers my question lollaughing

And I'm not terribly hard on wheels, and I take care of my wheels as well... so I thibk the Rollcage will be fine for me, just the thing that pisses me off with the Rollcage is that dumbass little line indention thing in the center, because we have like hella pollen in the air and on the ground right now, and all the pollen got in that little line in the center so I had to get a q-tip and go around the whole rim to get all the pollen out... but whatever, I'll just deal with it lollaughing

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Air compressor or a can of compressed air would probably work better for that than a q-tip

Or that too! I will try using my compressor next time my rim is all nasty looking. Good idea!

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 5:54 PM

coupde_tat wrote:

I run a birdcage in front and Ribcage in back and I have a lot of confidence in the rim. I've clipped pretty bad and have been running lower pressure last 6 months or so and havent even trued it once. Had this wheelset since August I think. Haven't had to touch the birdcage either but I can just tell by the feel of my rear wheel that it's the strongest rim I've ever had. I wanted em on both wheels but thought it would be overkill. I used to run rhynolite xls on both wheels and was truing them every other session. Don't sell the cassette wheel and see if the rollcage lasts in meantime but if you want to put the effort in I'd definitely say switching em is worth it

Yeah, when I rode my Ribcage, the thing felt solid as hell becasue I knew it was like the strongest rim out there, now knowing I don't have the strongest rim out there makes me feel sketched out for some reason lol... but I know the Rollcage will be fine...

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 6:29 PM

Seems like a lot of work for little benefit. I think I'd just ride then the way they are & worry about a change if/when something needs replacing.

|

3/9/2018 7:04 PM

Mishinn_Control wrote:

Seems like a lot of work for little benefit. I think I'd just ride then the way they are & worry about a change if/when something needs replacing.

Yep this is what I plan on doing now.... Yeah I'd rather have the Ribcage on my coaster, but I know the Rollcage will be plenty strong for me I know it...

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 7:13 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yep this is what I plan on doing now.... Yeah I'd rather have the Ribcage on my coaster, but I know the Rollcage will be plenty strong for me I know it...

I'd just say, next time you're off the bike for a day or two, for whatever reason, strip them both down and rebuild them the way you want them. Wheelbuilding is such a nice way to pass some time and... when you get back on the bike, you'll have a dialed wheel setup, just the way you want it.

|

My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

3/9/2018 8:20 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Also, I just talked to my LBS, they said they charge $50 to build a wheel... and I need 2 wheels built.... so I guess that answers my question lollaughing

And I'm not terribly hard on wheels, and I take care of my wheels as well... so I thibk the Rollcage will be fine for me, just the thing that pisses me off with the Rollcage is that dumbass little line indention thing in the center, because we have like hella pollen in the air and on the ground right now, and all the pollen got in that little line in the center so I had to get a q-tip and go around the whole rim to get all the pollen out... but whatever, I'll just deal with it lollaughing

Lol dude I have 4 ribcages and at this point removing gunk and dirt from the middle grove is now the norm while cleaning my bike. From a VERY LIMITED experience, I’d say these wheels are probably the easiest to clean.

But fifty fucking bucks? Thats gonna turn into a hundred pretty fast. Heres a bettet idea: Buy a truing stand and a book on wheelbuilding with that money. That would be a WAY better investment that may potentially pay off in the future.

|

3/9/2018 8:33 PM
Edited Date/Time: 3/10/2018 5:48 AM

Mishinn_Control wrote:

Seems like a lot of work for little benefit. I think I'd just ride then the way they are & worry about a change if/when something needs replacing.

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yep this is what I plan on doing now.... Yeah I'd rather have the Ribcage on my coaster, but I know the Rollcage will be plenty strong for me I know it...

p1p1092 wrote:

I'd just say, next time you're off the bike for a day or two, for whatever reason, strip them both down and rebuild them the way you want them. Wheelbuilding is such a nice way to pass some time and... when you get back on the bike, you'll have a dialed wheel setup, just the way you want it.

Yeah well if I were an awesome wheel builder like you Id do it... but I've never once built a wheel and don't want to try it for my first time on an almost $300 wheel lol... but I don't really think I'm going break a Rollcage... I take good care of my wheels like I said so I think I'll be fine... Thanks dude, I really appreciate your help dude! I just wish you lived near me, teach me a thing or two about wheels and improve my ridingsilly

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 8:36 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Also, I just talked to my LBS, they said they charge $50 to build a wheel... and I need 2 wheels built.... so I guess that answers my question lollaughing

And I'm not terribly hard on wheels, and I take care of my wheels as well... so I thibk the Rollcage will be fine for me, just the thing that pisses me off with the Rollcage is that dumbass little line indention thing in the center, because we have like hella pollen in the air and on the ground right now, and all the pollen got in that little line in the center so I had to get a q-tip and go around the whole rim to get all the pollen out... but whatever, I'll just deal with it lollaughing

thairishguy wrote:

Lol dude I have 4 ribcages and at this point removing gunk and dirt from the middle grove is now the norm while cleaning my bike. From a VERY LIMITED experience, I’d say these wheels are probably the easiest to clean.

But fifty fucking bucks? Thats gonna turn into a hundred pretty fast. Heres a bettet idea: Buy a truing stand and a book on wheelbuilding with that money. That would be a WAY better investment that may potentially pay off in the future.

Yeah I know $50 is a bit expensive... especially if I were to pay them $100 to get both wheels rebuilt... I'd rather go and buy another Ribcage and then learn to lace a wheel lol.... but I'm fine with the Rollcage now... I've goten over having a Ribcage now, I know my Rollcage will be just a fine... But thanks for you input dude! I really appreciate it!smile

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/9/2018 10:16 PM

If you have to tighten your spokes every couple of weeks, whoever built it can't do their job properly

|

3/10/2018 5:09 AM
Edited Date/Time: 3/10/2018 5:10 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Also, I just talked to my LBS, they said they charge $50 to build a wheel... and I need 2 wheels built.... so I guess that answers my question lollaughing

And I'm not terribly hard on wheels, and I take care of my wheels as well... so I thibk the Rollcage will be fine for me, just the thing that pisses me off with the Rollcage is that dumbass little line indention thing in the center, because we have like hella pollen in the air and on the ground right now, and all the pollen got in that little line in the center so I had to get a q-tip and go around the whole rim to get all the pollen out... but whatever, I'll just deal with it lollaughing

thairishguy wrote:

Lol dude I have 4 ribcages and at this point removing gunk and dirt from the middle grove is now the norm while cleaning my bike. From a VERY LIMITED experience, I’d say these wheels are probably the easiest to clean.

But fifty fucking bucks? Thats gonna turn into a hundred pretty fast. Heres a bettet idea: Buy a truing stand and a book on wheelbuilding with that money. That would be a WAY better investment that may potentially pay off in the future.

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yeah I know $50 is a bit expensive... especially if I were to pay them $100 to get both wheels rebuilt... I'd rather go and buy another Ribcage and then learn to lace a wheel lol.... but I'm fine with the Rollcage now... I've goten over having a Ribcage now, I know my Rollcage will be just a fine... But thanks for you input dude! I really appreciate it!smile

No problem dude! I wish I had the proper tools at hand though so i can build and fix my own wheels whenever necessary, but then again Where Im at its 12 bucks to get a wheel built, and if I just need truing or anything (that doesnt need replacing) theyll do it for free.

Pretty much the saying “give a man a fish/teach a man to fish”.

|

3/10/2018 5:41 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

If you have to tighten your spokes every couple of weeks, whoever built it can't do their job properly

No I dont neccesarily have to tighten them every few weeks, I just make sure the spokes are still nice and tidy amd that nothing is broken...

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/10/2018 6:15 AM

I'm an advocate for ribcage but your set up is pretty good. I'd stay with your current set up until you gain some weight or start really destroying rims.

|

3/10/2018 7:06 AM
Edited Date/Time: 3/10/2018 7:07 AM

408gt91 wrote:

I'm an advocate for ribcage but your set up is pretty good. I'd stay with your current set up until you gain some weight or start really destroying rims.

Yeah even if I was to gain 20 lbs or so (I'm not fat by any means lol) ina year and be 145-150 I still bet I'd have a hard time breaking the Rollcage lol

I'm sure I'll be able to knock the Rollcage out of true slightly, but I feel I'd have to hit it pretty hard to do that...

|

I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

3/10/2018 7:45 AM

408gt91 wrote:

I'm an advocate for ribcage but your set up is pretty good. I'd stay with your current set up until you gain some weight or start really destroying rims.

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Yeah even if I was to gain 20 lbs or so (I'm not fat by any means lol) ina year and be 145-150 I still bet I'd have a hard time breaking the Rollcage lol

I'm sure I'll be able to knock the Rollcage out of true slightly, but I feel I'd have to hit it pretty hard to do that...

Absolutely man. And truing them is pretty easy so you'll be set for awhile. Why spend the time and money.

|

3/10/2018 7:52 AM

if you have the money, go for it. if not it will be fine smile

|

It’s all bmx