Lacing 36h wheel problem

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3/3/2016 12:07 AM

So i just laced a 36 hole wheel 3 cross pattern and I evenly Tightened every spoke 1 full turn with the spoke wrench until they got pretty tight then i did half turns evenly around the whole wheel doing 1 side and then switching to the other side (turned out pretty good no hop but does need to be trued) my question is so alot of the spokes are pretty tight now but for some reason some of the other spokes are so loose i can turn the nipple with my fingers I evenly tightened them the whole time so I have no idea what to do now about those spokes if i tighten those now I would mess up the evenly tightened pattern I was doing but they are loose so what do you guys think I should do? thank you

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3/3/2016 3:14 AM

try not to do one side at a time, do every spoke when you go around

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3/3/2016 6:18 AM

Was it a used rim? Sounds like it has a kink or egg in it. Just tighten the loose spokes, then tighten the opposite side to keep it true. Don't over tighten them though, as it'll give you a flat spot. You may have just not tightened them as much as the others. I always tighten every spoke until there's 1mm or so of the thread still showing and go from there

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3/3/2016 6:58 AM

I always start at the valve hole and tighten each spoke the same. Don't do one side then the other.

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3/6/2016 8:10 PM

I found a pattern that I've used for years on end, and I don't think anyone else should do it differently. If your wheel doesn't need to have specific nipples or spokes adjusted, adjust one spoke, skip 3, and tighten the spoke after that one. It should still be the spoke on the same side. Then go to the other side and do the same. Just make sure you end up on the same spoke/nipple you started from. This allows you to loosen and tighten all of your spokes completely evenly!

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3/6/2016 8:54 PM
Edited Date/Time: 3/6/2016 9:01 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

Was it a used rim? Sounds like it has a kink or egg in it. Just tighten the loose spokes, then tighten the opposite side to ...more

this here^. You want to keep an eye on the threads mostly. Its the best way to keep track, no matter how accurate you think you're being. It's very easy to go overboard. But it's also very easy to correct mistakes, if you know you've made one. Not every mistaken turn will spell end of the world. Make sure to give the wheel a spin every time you pass valve. This takes time. Don't get impatient with yourself.

"..then i did half turns evenly around the whole wheel doing 1 side and then switching to the other side.."

This part is what worries me the most. You went around evenly on just ONE side? Then did the same for the opposite side spokes?? You'll need to clarify(for me at least) what you mean here...

inward and outward spokes should be treated the same at all times.

Just remember, it's always better to come up short than to go overboard. Even if it takes you longer to get done. Patience and vigilance are most important here. Good luck dude.

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3/6/2016 9:26 PM
Edited Date/Time: 3/6/2016 9:35 PM

I've got a few questions:

Is it a front or rear wheel? Rear wheels will sometimes have different spoke lengths on the left and right side.
Is it a new rim? Dudes above touched on the above point.
How did you get the spoke length? Hope the shop gave you the right size
Is it every 4th spoke by chance?

The most critical step is where you drop the first spoke on the second side of the hub. With the rim and hub on a table or bench (even drilling a hole so the axle rests standing on end), and the valve hole at the 6 o'clock position, lace the wheel from the right side of the valve hole counterclockwise. Once the 3x pattern of 2 over and 1 under on the first side and all nipples are tightened to the top of the spoke threads is complete, flip the wheel over and notice that now the nipple hole to the right of the valve is empty (at 6 o'clock position). Trace the spoke that is the second to the right up to the hub and drop the first spoke one hole clockwise of the traced spoke. This spoke goes on the first hole to the right of the valve hole. The spoke holes on the hub are offset for this reason of matching up with the rim holes. Once this first spoke position is found on the 2nd side, you can drop the rest of the spokes in and complete the 3x pattern.
Spoke tension is the last part of lacing and truing a wheel. You want to be methodical with the tightening of the spokes. I do one side then the other but start with all spoke nipples to the top of the threads and then a few full turns on one side and then flip the wheel around to tighten the other side exactly the same number of times. So then there is up and down, side to side, dish (the rim is centered) and tension. If you start with tension first, you will be fighting the rest of the truing process. Loosen spokes on one side before you tighten them on the other. Loosen areas where the rim is high before tightening where it is low (bottom side of rim referenced).
Ultimately, the philosophy for which spoke heads are in and which are out means very little, it is the proper tension of every spoke that will make your wheel last long. Too tight of spoke where you are rounding out the nipple is just as bad as a loose spoke. When you are finally ready to tension the wheel, try to get every spoke nipple to feel the same when you are turning it. You may need to loosen one a quarter turn and tighten the next one on the same side a quarter turn. It is initially a slow process, but it is the best accomplishment of working on your bike.

P.S G Sport rims have offset holes they call 'cross over spoke lacing' which can be confusing.

I need another beer...

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3/6/2016 9:46 PM

BMXCasey wrote:

I've got a few questions:

Is it a front or rear wheel? Rear wheels will sometimes have different spoke lengths on the left ...more

+1


+2 beers

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FREE not under the control or in the power of another; able to act or be done as one wishes
STYLE a particular, distinctive, or characteristic mode of action or manner of acting