Madera Cranks Help

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8/16/2018 3:08 AM

So I have just received some Madera cranks I got off eBay, I think they are the Protocol cranks, and I'm having real trouble getting the cranks on to the spindle.

Am I missing something, do you need a tool to do it? It's really hard, my old cranks would just slide on.

Any help would be great! Here are the cranks..


Photo
Photo
Photo

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

8/16/2018 3:31 AM

How do the splines look inside the crank arm? I recently got some cranks and was having the same issue as you are. It basically turned out that the little ridge inside where it goes slightly narrower where the splines are (so on your first picture it would be the greyish looking circle that's just a little smaller than the actual hole of the crank arm) was slightly misshapen and overlapped the splines so the spindle wouldn't fit inside. I just sanded it down until that little ridge was the same size all the way round so the splines weren't covered over by it and then it all fit together.

Not sure if this makes any sense at all and it might have been an incredibly stupid thing of me to do but that's how I solved it haha

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8/16/2018 3:59 AM

I think I vaguely get what you're on about. It just seems mad that these were used, so you would've thought they would just slide on no problem.

I've looked on the Profile site this morning and they do sell a tool, so nobody has any other ideas, I'll give that a go.

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

8/16/2018 4:28 AM
Edited Date/Time: 8/16/2018 5:12 AM

Have you tried sliding the crank onto the spindle backwards? If it slides on easily backwards, the internal splines might be garfed up a bit on one end.

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8/16/2018 4:31 AM

I'll give that a crack.

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

8/16/2018 10:24 AM

My prifules were really hard to get on the first and second time, had to use the tool.
I'm sure they will loosen up after taking apart a few times.

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Hmmm

8/16/2018 10:25 AM

I've never used the tool, drench them in grease and anti seize and smack them with a mallet.

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45 refs and counting check profile.

8/17/2018 12:45 AM

Any recommendations on the grease? I usually use copper stuff.

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

8/17/2018 1:15 AM

Aitkenisgod wrote:

Any recommendations on the grease? I usually use copper stuff.

Copper grease isn't the best for things that aren't threaded as it has tiny copper filings that help fill in any imperfections in threads to keep them greased up as well as firmly in the same position they were tightened to.
I have a can of WD-40 branded lithium grease which is good because it comes out like an oil so it's easy to get a really thin and consistent layer, but any marine/automotive grease will be fine.

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Hmmm

8/17/2018 1:22 AM

Cheers for the advice Ed. Luckily enough I have that exact stuff, I use it for the annoying squeaky clutch on my car angry

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

8/17/2018 1:33 AM

Isn't copper grease exactly the grease you should use? Profile and animal cranks come with a little pouch of it, it's an anti sieze grease

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8/17/2018 2:20 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

Isn't copper grease exactly the grease you should use? Profile and animal cranks come with a little pouch of it, it's an anti ...more

All grease is an anti size grease, copper grease is for threads because if other grease is used then they can vibrate loose whereas the particles in copper grease prevent that.
For BMX it probably doesn't matter so much since if something comes loose it is usually noticeable before anything fails.
I think copper grease might be a good thing to use if the splines were a little worn? To take a bit of the wiggle room away.

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Hmmm

8/17/2018 3:34 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

Isn't copper grease exactly the grease you should use? Profile and animal cranks come with a little pouch of it, it's an anti ...more

Edman123 wrote:

All grease is an anti size grease, copper grease is for threads because if other grease is used then they can vibrate loose ...more

Well, some grease is specifically a lubricant, for moving parts, and some is to prevent seizing. The white lithium grease is bad for bearings as it gets displaced by water fairly easily, and is pretty viscous. But it's not too bad for anti sieze. I was under the impression copper grease was the same kind of thing only a lot better. Hence it's regularly used as an anti sieze. But still isn't great for bearings. Whereas a poly grease is ideal for bearings as it's a lot less viscous

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8/17/2018 4:17 AM

I use a Mobile 1 synthetic besring grease for everything on my bike... it does the job very well!

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

8/17/2018 4:49 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

Isn't copper grease exactly the grease you should use? Profile and animal cranks come with a little pouch of it, it's an anti ...more

Edman123 wrote:

All grease is an anti size grease, copper grease is for threads because if other grease is used then they can vibrate loose ...more

grumpySteve wrote:

Well, some grease is specifically a lubricant, for moving parts, and some is to prevent seizing. The white lithium grease is ...more

Copper grease is actually designed as an anti-seizing agent for threads & such in a high temp situation. & is never intended for bearings as there's small bits of actual copper suspended in the clay.

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