Making a freecoaster...

Right be prepared for a bit of an essay..

For the actual Freecoaster mechanism i suggest you use the Ezra Casstte/coaster Driver because the whole mechanism is in the driver meaning you can pretty much do whatever you want with the axle & hub shell.

For the Axle i suggest you go with a True female axle. Something like the Tree hub. 17mm Inner Axle with 14mm female bolts. Non of the "shemale" bullshit.

Then you can have press on collars meaning if you so wanted you can use press on hub guards which is a shit ton better than thread on crap & will mean your axle will have a way longer life.

This is where it gets complicated. You will need to make your own hub shell to accommodate the 17mm Female Axle, with this though you can pretty much have whatever style you want as long as it fits the bearings.

The bearings are the next complicated bit. You will need to have bearings that fit the 17mm Inner axle BUT the bearings in the Ezra drive will NOT work with a 17mm Female Inner axle so you will have to source bearings for the driver so you can use the Inner axle.

However with all this done, you will have a full female cassette coaster & i know NUMEROUS people including myself that would KILL for a hub like i have described!

If you have the opportunity, come up with a new driver. Maybe think a little LESS complex.

Could get away with the Ezra coaster if you step the axle down and only use a 10mm bolt on the drive side. Not totally ideal but it would be a starting point. I'd also get rid of the cassette swapping feature and make the plastic thing in it out of steel.

If your building a coaster from scratch I believe it would take longer than a year especially if your doing it in school hours and don't have access to all the tooling

Topsey wrote:

Right be prepared for a bit of an essay..

For the actual Freecoaster mechanism i suggest you use the Ezra Casstte/coaster Driver because the whole mechanism is in the driver meaning you can pretty much do whatever you want with the axle & hub shell.

For the Axle i suggest you go with a True female axle. Something like the Tree hub. 17mm Inner Axle with 14mm female bolts. Non of the "shemale" bullshit.

Then you can have press on collars meaning if you so wanted you can use press on hub guards which is a shit ton better than thread on crap & will mean your axle will have a way longer life.

This is where it gets complicated. You will need to make your own hub shell to accommodate the 17mm Female Axle, with this though you can pretty much have whatever style you want as long as it fits the bearings.

The bearings are the next complicated bit. You will need to have bearings that fit the 17mm Inner axle BUT the bearings in the Ezra drive will NOT work with a 17mm Female Inner axle so you will have to source bearings for the driver so you can use the Inner axle.

However with all this done, you will have a full female cassette coaster & i know NUMEROUS people including myself that would KILL for a hub like i have described!

This is the exact sort of reply i wanted, coz I know this is not something I'll be able to do without some help from people with lots of knowlege and experiance :L I already planned for a fit press as on my product proposal sheet i said i wanted to be able to use universal hub guards on it.
I was looking into how the ezra works, I've seen the video, but didnt really look as closely as I did this time, I was already thinking maybe to do something similar as well because I think it'd be easier to make/cheaper, which will help me with time (theres alot of paper work to do, like a 60 page report) and theres a £40 budget (I can add my own money if I need), but I have to produce 3 different designs, so I can look into other internals like KHE aswell.
I think females a good idea, defo 14mm, non of that 10mm bs. I'll look into the tree's axle and others that are similar and see what I think, but again, I can design on with a different axle aswell.
I would make my own hub shell anyway, I can go out of college to near by companies and use there machines if need be aswell, so i shouldnt have any restrictions on what machines i can use.
I was thinking about the ezra, and isnt the plastic clutch disk meant to break?coz I could redesign that to me a stronger metal as a start. but thats just a thought, dont start getting into it till I go back next year.

Hopefully in the end I'll make something half decent

Gump wrote:

Could get away with the Ezra coaster if you step the axle down and only use a 10mm bolt on the drive side. Not totally ideal but it would be a starting point. I'd also get rid of the cassette swapping feature and make the plastic thing in it out of steel.

If your building a coaster from scratch I believe it would take longer than a year especially if your doing it in school hours and don't have access to all the tooling

Well I'm in colege, and its A level equivalent, so we can do what we want. We have loads of different workshops for everything, and in the engineering one theres all the stuff for fabricating using methods like hacksawing things and grinding shit, and then we have one for lathes and milling machines etc. Unfortunately I wont be able to make prototypes etc, but I reckon I'll give it a good shot.

future FBM wrote:

If you have the opportunity, come up with a new driver. Maybe think a little LESS complex.

I was thinking less complex since I have to produce 3 designs, then further design one of them, so I wont have time to make a crazy complex one anyway

was just checking this out last night

http://www.bluesixbikes.com/index.htm?blogentryid=4588311

As Gump mentioned, You could revise the Ezra internals. Get rid of the actual Cassette parts to make it a full freecoaster & dump the Delrin clutch disc & make it out of a more durable metal.

The hub shell could be pretty much any shape you want using the Ezra mechanism.

Axle wise i would SERIOUSLY advise you use a 17mm Female Inner Axle with the 14mm bolts. I used the Tree axle as an example but the Odyssey Antigram uses a 17mm Inner Axle with 14mm Bolts as does the Shadow BTR, Come to think about it i would recommend using the Shadows Axle/Hub shell dimensions because you could use their press fit hub guard & DSG which would be a HUGE plus too!

You would need the Ezra drivers dimensions also, I am afraid i don't know them off the top of my head so i couldn't say what bearings you would need to accommodate the 17mm Female axle. Or as Gump mentioned you could step down to the 14mm & use a 3/8ths bolt on the drive side but that could be a pain in the arse to manufacture.

Finally.. Good Luck Look forward to seeing what you make!

sounds like its going to be hard and time consuming, but the outcome could be fucking sick

Well I dont really have to do for designing it till i go back in sept, so I'll bookmark this page and keep everyone up to date on the ddesigns and drawings and whatnot. Thanks Topsey for your input, I'd be greatful for any help through when I design it in a few months. Reckon we could come up with a pretty solid design

sk8termatt wrote:

sounds like its going to be hard and time consuming, but the outcome could be fucking sick

yeah, it will be, but all my classmates are just doing trolleys and stuff so they're all boring, atleast it'll be something I'll get enjoyment out of aswell, and it'll look beast on my cv, or as examples to show when i try get a job :D

haha, if this comes out well, you should see if you can get it into production, if it goes REALLY well. Tbh, i'd buy one

Zach P-D wrote:

haha, if this comes out well, you should see if you can get it into production, if it goes REALLY well. Tbh, i'd buy one

well i can always dream haha, gunna work hard on it anyway, want it to be impressive to help me get a good apprenticeship when I finish my level 3. The bike company hope are based pretty close to me, so I could try blag my way in there haha

I made a free coaster on Inventor a few months ago. Used 6904 bearings but a 17mm female axle because of the internals that probably wouldn't work lol. I kinda want to see if it would work sometime.

YEEEESSS!! This is my kind of thread right here! haha!

I would not do all this silly take this and then do this. Try and take a good look at the Odyssey Reloader and redesign how the clutch springs work on the driver, re do the springs, and for the driver bearing that habitually blows, make that bearing have an extra shell around it, like a metal bit that protects it in the actual driver, and a metal bit on the outside that protects the open side of the bearing. For the axle, yes, definitely go with the 17mm inside that has the true female option, that is good. but the main thing that is important about this is the way it engages, keep how it engages because that is flawless-atleast it always has been for me.
And as for using the same idea the Ezra does, dont. The derlin plate is made to be like that, they had it as metal i bet, and then switched it to derlin because it is a very hard plastic that does not wear out. I know people think it is that that makes the thing skip but it really isnt, it is the actual cassette ring missing the pawls, the way it engages as it rails the pawls upwards is different and as it pushes them up it isnt going to push them into the exact spot every time and will slip past into the next edge. Maybe use less wide cassette ring ridges if you are to do that so it doesnt skip. but i would stay away from that design personally.
And why would they automatically choose derlin for that clutch plate?? They didnt i bet. I bet they had it as a steel one and then encountered design flaws with that. That is my idea, i recommend that. But maybe im wrong about the Ezra thing, who knows.

sorry i'm not to sure on how freecoasters work but maybe you guys could answer a question for me? this guy who rides at my local park got a bike off of his friend for 250 it was a pretty good deal really nice mirrico detroit with some pretty good parts on it now as soon as he got it he started to brag about how his back rim alone cost more than my bike he placed the whole thing at about 400 dollars just for the back freecoaster/rim together it was a now i'm pretty sure it was a GEISHA MTB FREECOASTER laced to a Sun Rhynolite XL Rim (for some reason it was caked in this black gunk that i assumed to be dirt and grease instead of the golden color it was when he bought it he told me it was greece since he broke his bearing in it and was apparently riding it with no bearings) now my question is the wheel really worth 400 or is he just talking shyt and can you ride a freecoaster without any bearings
edit:after he painted it or greased it black he started telling people he was riding an odyssey freecoaster then after telling people that he then said he made it himself just as you are doing

Tweetz wrote:

sorry i'm not to sure on how freecoasters work but maybe you guys could answer a question for me? this guy who rides at my local park got a bike off of his friend for 250 it was a pretty good deal really nice mirrico detroit with some pretty good parts on it now as soon as he got it he started to brag about how his back rim alone cost more than my bike he placed the whole thing at about 400 dollars just for the back freecoaster/rim together it was a now i'm pretty sure it was a GEISHA MTB FREECOASTER laced to a Sun Rhynolite XL Rim (for some reason it was caked in this black gunk that i assumed to be dirt and grease instead of the golden color it was when he bought it he told me it was greece since he broke his bearing in it and was apparently riding it with no bearings) now my question is the wheel really worth 400 or is he just talking shyt and can you ride a freecoaster without any bearings
edit:after he painted it or greased it black he started telling people he was riding an odyssey freecoaster then after telling people that he then said he made it himself just as you are doing

The kid is trying to be cool, dont stand for his bull!! It is a damn coaster of course it needs bearings!! And no i doubt itd even be close to 400 for that wheel you stated mayyyybe 250 and thats an overshoot. Go knock that moron out!!! Tell him MaximusBikes on vital forum told him to eat shit too!! Hahaha

Tweetz wrote:

sorry i'm not to sure on how freecoasters work but maybe you guys could answer a question for me? this guy who rides at my local park got a bike off of his friend for 250 it was a pretty good deal really nice mirrico detroit with some pretty good parts on it now as soon as he got it he started to brag about how his back rim alone cost more than my bike he placed the whole thing at about 400 dollars just for the back freecoaster/rim together it was a now i'm pretty sure it was a GEISHA MTB FREECOASTER laced to a Sun Rhynolite XL Rim (for some reason it was caked in this black gunk that i assumed to be dirt and grease instead of the golden color it was when he bought it he told me it was greece since he broke his bearing in it and was apparently riding it with no bearings) now my question is the wheel really worth 400 or is he just talking shyt and can you ride a freecoaster without any bearings
edit:after he painted it or greased it black he started telling people he was riding an odyssey freecoaster then after telling people that he then said he made it himself just as you are doing

MaximusBikes wrote:

The kid is trying to be cool, dont stand for his bull!! It is a damn coaster of course it needs bearings!! And no i doubt itd even be close to 400 for that wheel you stated mayyyybe 250 and thats an overshoot. Go knock that moron out!!! Tell him MaximusBikes on vital forum told him to eat shit too!! Hahaha

would the spacing or axle on a mtb geisha hub even fit a bmx?

Pretty sure mtb spacing wider than BMX. And I don't think khe make a MTb coaster it's mainly a BMX thing

Gump wrote:

Pretty sure mtb spacing wider than BMX. And I don't think khe make a MTb coaster it's mainly a BMX thing

KHE makes a freecoaster for dirtjumpers, they have disc mounts and would be to wide for a bmx.

All i have to say is make it have a 14mm female and oversized bearings aka GCOASTER.

Tweetz wrote:

sorry i'm not to sure on how freecoasters work but maybe you guys could answer a question for me? this guy who rides at my local park got a bike off of his friend for 250 it was a pretty good deal really nice mirrico detroit with some pretty good parts on it now as soon as he got it he started to brag about how his back rim alone cost more than my bike he placed the whole thing at about 400 dollars just for the back freecoaster/rim together it was a now i'm pretty sure it was a GEISHA MTB FREECOASTER laced to a Sun Rhynolite XL Rim (for some reason it was caked in this black gunk that i assumed to be dirt and grease instead of the golden color it was when he bought it he told me it was greece since he broke his bearing in it and was apparently riding it with no bearings) now my question is the wheel really worth 400 or is he just talking shyt and can you ride a freecoaster without any bearings
edit:after he painted it or greased it black he started telling people he was riding an odyssey freecoaster then after telling people that he then said he made it himself just as you are doing

MaximusBikes wrote:

The kid is trying to be cool, dont stand for his bull!! It is a damn coaster of course it needs bearings!! And no i doubt itd even be close to 400 for that wheel you stated mayyyybe 250 and thats an overshoot. Go knock that moron out!!! Tell him MaximusBikes on vital forum told him to eat shit too!! Hahaha

EddiMundo wrote:

would the spacing or axle on a mtb geisha hub even fit a bmx?

i'm not to sure as i said im pretty sure thats what it is but im not 100% his was the same gold color as the geisha and since he wouldn't tell me the make of the hub i've been searching around for it for a while now and that the closest i could get to what i seen and thanks for informing me on this now next time he starts his my freecoaster brag he will be in for a surprise his constant bragging is a real pain in the ass

Are you still making one? Stick with the true 14mm female axle that shit would be best seller.

I'd make something like a coaster that makes sounds still. Or a freecoaster that you can backpedal without worrying about blowing your bearings. Like a hybrid coaster.

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

I'd make something like a coaster that makes sounds still. Or a freecoaster that you can backpedal without worrying about blowing your bearings. Like a hybrid coaster.

Why? If you want to pedals backwards just buy a cassette lol.

As if this got brought up! Haha,.......... well, College is shit and I'm poor so essentially I'm piecing a coast together. This is because I've only just started using mastercam so I couldn't cnc the hub shell, meaning it hugely limited the bearings I could use, whiCh in turn limited the axle amd basically shit went tits up. But I still have to have something otherwise I'll fail my course haha

EddiMundo wrote:

As if this got brought up! Haha,.......... well, College is shit and I'm poor so essentially I'm piecing a coast together. This is because I've only just started using mastercam so I couldn't cnc the hub shell, meaning it hugely limited the bearings I could use, whiCh in turn limited the axle amd basically shit went tits up. But I still have to have something otherwise I'll fail my course haha

What version of Mastercam are you using? Just curious. MC is for generating code to make parts and not so much for designing or engineering parts/assemblies. It's possible, but pretty difficult. Do you have access to Solidworks at your school? That would be much better suited for the designing that it sounds like you're wanting to do.

rocks4brain wrote:

What version of Mastercam are you using? Just curious. MC is for generating code to make parts and not so much for designing or engineering parts/assemblies. It's possible, but pretty difficult. Do you have access to Solidworks at your school? That would be much better suited for the designing that it sounds like you're wanting to do.

i meant more for putting the tooling paths round it, and id have to ask to use the CNC machines (despite they are for the engineering department, and thats what im doing!). i can put a very basic tooling path round something, but ive only had about 5 hours max on it so yeah, im not too good. and we do have solidworks, i even got it on my missus laptop coz im a student, but like i said, thats not the problem... and college only give me a £40 budget for the whole thing and ive got 2 holidays and a house + bills to pay for so i cant afford to put much extra money into it......................................... one day maybe.... one day..

Sounds like your on a good track. I've used MC for years, and lots of different versions. It's badass software and hard to beat for making toolpaths. Keep learning and playing around with it. You'll be able to make anything you want in no time. I'm just starting to play around with some software called "PartMaker". It's similar to MC but can handle some of the more advanced machines like the 10-12 axis swiss type machines. One thing I've realized is that the more I learn, the more I realize that there is so much more to learn. Keep it up, and just remember that without your work that raw material will never be anything more than that.

Magnesium hub shell with ti internals