New BMX stem bolts must have been tightened by Mr Incredible?

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4/22/2020 11:52 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/22/2020 11:53 AM

I recently bought a United and was trying to fit some bars on but couldn't undo the stem bolts (the 4 on top).

I went lefty loosy but one bolt would not barge.

Usually I am able to undo these things in quite a smooth, careful way but this time it took me almost an hour to undo 3 bolts, I heard a snapping noise when each bolt came off not in a bad way but because it was new and so tightly done (by a machine?).

Anyway the last bolt was so tight that I damaged it and now it is rounded inside.

What do I do from home? or must this be a bike shop repair thingy? The pentagonal allen key no longer fits of course... sad

Thanks.

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Control of my bars helps me feel in control of my life.

4/22/2020 11:54 AM

drill it out

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fack off

4/22/2020 12:48 PM

Dremel it into a flathead screw, use penetrating oil to soak into the threads

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4/22/2020 1:01 PM

4130Junkie wrote:

Dremel it into a flathead screw, use penetrating oil to soak into the threads

This ^^^^ first

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4/22/2020 1:02 PM

adamnmexican wrote:

drill it out

Followed by this ^^^

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4/22/2020 1:53 PM

That’s pretty strange, maybe it ceased in assembly somewhere.

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Scooter kid trying to ride BMX.
Instagram: @scootereyn

4/22/2020 2:19 PM

Mad Mars wrote:

I recently bought a United and was trying to fit some bars on but couldn't undo the stem bolts (the 4 on top).

I went lefty loosy but one bolt would not barge.

Usually I am able to undo these things in quite a smooth, careful way but this time it took me almost an hour to undo 3 bolts, I heard a snapping noise when each bolt came off not in a bad way but because it was new and so tightly done (by a machine?).

Anyway the last bolt was so tight that I damaged it and now it is rounded inside.

What do I do from home? or must this be a bike shop repair thingy? The pentagonal allen key no longer fits of course... sad

Thanks.

Had this happen with my GT Piston a while back. Try either welding some steel to the bolt or do the other thing. Keep in mind if you weld a steel bar EXPECT for some damage to occur to the area around the bolt when you turn it.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/22/2020 3:31 PM

I would try to get 1 of these three options..

1) Hacksaw
2) Sawsall with a metal cutting blade
3) 4 1/2" or less cut-off disk on a grinder

In the gap between the top half and bottom half. Cut the bolt inside that gap, if you're careful, damage will be minimal. Once it's cut, the top of the bolt with the head will just fall out. Now that the pressure is relieved, you can get the bottom half of the bolt out easy too..

Hopefully this information proves helpful..

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4/22/2020 8:20 PM

readybmxer wrote:

That’s pretty strange, maybe it ceased in assembly somewhere.

Ceased?

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4/22/2020 8:24 PM

readybmxer wrote:

That’s pretty strange, maybe it ceased in assembly somewhere.

HtownGetDown wrote:

Ceased?

Maybe siezed...

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4/22/2020 8:25 PM

readybmxer wrote:

That’s pretty strange, maybe it ceased in assembly somewhere.

HtownGetDown wrote:

Ceased?

Black Swamp Ghost wrote:

Maybe siezed...

Maybe it ceased to exist

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4/23/2020 9:14 AM

Mad Mars wrote:

I recently bought a United and was trying to fit some bars on but couldn't undo the stem bolts (the 4 on top).

I went lefty loosy but one bolt would not barge.

Usually I am able to undo these things in quite a smooth, careful way but this time it took me almost an hour to undo 3 bolts, I heard a snapping noise when each bolt came off not in a bad way but because it was new and so tightly done (by a machine?).

Anyway the last bolt was so tight that I damaged it and now it is rounded inside.

What do I do from home? or must this be a bike shop repair thingy? The pentagonal allen key no longer fits of course... sad

Thanks.

Get anywhere with it yet?

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4/26/2020 11:34 AM

HtownGetDown wrote:

Ceased?

Black Swamp Ghost wrote:

Maybe siezed...

HtownGetDown wrote:

Maybe it ceased to exist

Wick-wick, cease and desist

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4/27/2020 6:46 AM

Mad Mars wrote:

I recently bought a United and was trying to fit some bars on but couldn't undo the stem bolts (the 4 on top).

I went lefty loosy but one bolt would not barge.

Usually I am able to undo these things in quite a smooth, careful way but this time it took me almost an hour to undo 3 bolts, I heard a snapping noise when each bolt came off not in a bad way but because it was new and so tightly done (by a machine?).

Anyway the last bolt was so tight that I damaged it and now it is rounded inside.

What do I do from home? or must this be a bike shop repair thingy? The pentagonal allen key no longer fits of course... sad

Thanks.

Black Swamp Ghost wrote:

Get anywhere with it yet?

Sorry for the late replies all. Been super busy with family. No luck I fear that using screwdriver, hacksaw will fuck up the stem as there are no 'gaps'. Thanks guys. Photo
Photo

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Control of my bars helps me feel in control of my life.

4/27/2020 7:41 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/27/2020 7:43 AM

I'd drop a bit of wd-40 down the bottom and let it sit for a bit upside down assuming it's drilled through. Not sure about those. If not just let it seep from the top. Then I'd get the dremel or a hacksaw and carefully cut a slot in the top of the bolt being careful not to heat it up too much. Then I'd get a big flat blade screw driver and try to get it out that way.

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4/27/2020 7:56 AM

Also put other bolts back in to relieve a bit of tension

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4/27/2020 7:57 AM

KevoW wrote:

I'd drop a bit of wd-40 down the bottom and let it sit for a bit upside down assuming it's drilled through. Not sure about those. If not just let it seep from the top. Then I'd get the dremel or a hacksaw and carefully cut a slot in the top of the bolt being careful not to heat it up too much. Then I'd get a big flat blade screw driver and try to get it out that way.

I'm going to do exactly this tonight. Thumbs up.

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Control of my bars helps me feel in control of my life.

4/27/2020 7:58 AM

4130Junkie wrote:

Also put other bolts back in to relieve a bit of tension

I don't have the other bolts any longer, I'll order 3 more. I'll have to do it carefully without. :/

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Control of my bars helps me feel in control of my life.

4/27/2020 12:12 PM

KevoW wrote:

I'd drop a bit of wd-40 down the bottom and let it sit for a bit upside down assuming it's drilled through. Not sure about those. If not just let it seep from the top. Then I'd get the dremel or a hacksaw and carefully cut a slot in the top of the bolt being careful not to heat it up too much. Then I'd get a big flat blade screw driver and try to get it out that way.

Mad Mars wrote:

I'm going to do exactly this tonight. Thumbs up.

As a mechanic I would say get a reverse thread drill bit for extraction.. but if you are nervous about damaging something I would bet you could put some good jb weld in there and clamp your Allen key into it over night. Idk if you would care about heat. But from there you could heat the stem with a torch then spray wd-40 on it or whatever oil and try and crack it loose. Those extraction bits work wonders though. I’ve gotten some really fucked studs out of engine blocks, exhaust etc with those many times

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4/27/2020 12:17 PM

Mad Mars wrote:

I recently bought a United and was trying to fit some bars on but couldn't undo the stem bolts (the 4 on top).

I went lefty loosy but one bolt would not barge.

Usually I am able to undo these things in quite a smooth, careful way but this time it took me almost an hour to undo 3 bolts, I heard a snapping noise when each bolt came off not in a bad way but because it was new and so tightly done (by a machine?).

Anyway the last bolt was so tight that I damaged it and now it is rounded inside.

What do I do from home? or must this be a bike shop repair thingy? The pentagonal allen key no longer fits of course... sad

Thanks.

Black Swamp Ghost wrote:

Get anywhere with it yet?

Mad Mars wrote:

Sorry for the late replies all. Been super busy with family. No luck I fear that using screwdriver, hacksaw will fuck up the stem as there are no 'gaps'. Thanks guys. Photo
Photo

Also sometimes you can stuff a bit of paper or this silly putty type stuff called byutal tape to get the Allen key to bite again. Or hammer in the next size up if you have standard and metric Allen keys. Put the stem in a vice Heat that bitch up with a torch, and as you are applying pressure with on hand tap the stem with a hammer using the other hand if you don’t have access to an impact driver tool.. you will be able to get it out. Lots of solid trains of thought on this thread. You got this

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4/27/2020 1:27 PM

Oh yeah, seized is the word. I are smart.

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Scooter kid trying to ride BMX.
Instagram: @scootereyn

4/28/2020 10:46 AM
Edited Date/Time: 4/28/2020 10:47 AM

That would be annoying that they were on so tight... Sorry to hear. Hope you get them off. I'd be complaining to the place I bought it and ask they replace it. (stem and bolts) Bolts aren't supposed to be so tight that they don't come off. Unless this has been sitting for a long time and neglected. But if it's newer, no way. Not good assembling practices on their part. Whoever did it. Either the shop or the factory.

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Philippians 1:6 And I am sure of this, that he who began a good work in you will bring it to completion at the day of Christ Jesus. Insta: SilentNightSun

4/29/2020 11:05 AM

Sorry I used a breaker bar on your stem bolts in the factory. All kidding aside heat up the all the advice above is solid and I have used most of it in the past to loosen stubborn bolts. That being said are you able to rotate the top plate at all that would also break it loose.

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I believe in hub guard protection

4/29/2020 1:40 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

As a mechanic I would say get a reverse thread drill bit for extraction.. but if you are nervous about damaging something I would bet you could put some good jb weld in there and clamp your Allen key into it over night. Idk if you would care about heat. But from there you could heat the stem with a torch then spray wd-40 on it or whatever oil and try and crack it loose. Those extraction bits work wonders though. I’ve gotten some really fucked studs out of engine blocks, exhaust etc with those many times

I don’t think he’d be mechanically inclined enough to figure out how to use easy outs (pretty easy to shatter if you’re not careful), do the JB weld thing.

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Gave up on BMX to hang out with 13 year old soundcloud rappers, what a life, such a cool guy!
-Sheldon on Adam22

"The only future for BMX"

Yeah, kids getting shit bikes, breaking them and then quitting. LOL
-jbales on mafiaBIKES

I’ve been a 14 year old beginner for the last ten years
-adamnmexican

4/29/2020 1:53 PM
Edited Date/Time: 4/29/2020 3:49 PM

Mad Mars wrote:

I'm going to do exactly this tonight. Thumbs up.

rainescustoms99 wrote:

As a mechanic I would say get a reverse thread drill bit for extraction.. but if you are nervous about damaging something I would bet you could put some good jb weld in there and clamp your Allen key into it over night. Idk if you would care about heat. But from there you could heat the stem with a torch then spray wd-40 on it or whatever oil and try and crack it loose. Those extraction bits work wonders though. I’ve gotten some really fucked studs out of engine blocks, exhaust etc with those many times

HavokDJ wrote:

I don’t think he’d be mechanically inclined enough to figure out how to use easy outs (pretty easy to shatter if you’re not careful), do the JB weld thing.

He may be referring to drill bits that are ground to drill anti-clockwise and not easy outs. As an engineer I’d go with the least intrusive methods first like using a piece of paper in the hex to tighten the Allen key fit, soak the threads in penetrating oil for a bit before you try though and the cracks you hear is the bond between the loctite and threads breaking, if the paper doesn’t work before any grinding and cutting try hammering a torque Allen key 1 size up from the bolt head, this can be enough to take a really positive grip. Another thing to try in drop the steam into boiling water then cool it in the freezer, the expansion and contraction of the steel can release the threads

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4/29/2020 2:43 PM

rainescustoms99 wrote:

As a mechanic I would say get a reverse thread drill bit for extraction.. but if you are nervous about damaging something I would bet you could put some good jb weld in there and clamp your Allen key into it over night. Idk if you would care about heat. But from there you could heat the stem with a torch then spray wd-40 on it or whatever oil and try and crack it loose. Those extraction bits work wonders though. I’ve gotten some really fucked studs out of engine blocks, exhaust etc with those many times

HavokDJ wrote:

I don’t think he’d be mechanically inclined enough to figure out how to use easy outs (pretty easy to shatter if you’re not careful), do the JB weld thing.

Scotty0308 wrote:

He may be referring to drill bits that are ground to drill anti-clockwise and not easy outs. As an engineer I’d go with the least intrusive methods first like using a piece of paper in the hex to tighten the Allen key fit, soak the threads in penetrating oil for a bit before you try though and the cracks you hear is the bond between the loctite and threads breaking, if the paper doesn’t work before any grinding and cutting try hammering a torque Allen key 1 size up from the bolt head, this can be enough to take a really positive grip. Another thing to try in drop the steam into boiling water then cool it in the freezer, the expansion and contraction of the steel can release the threads

I was talking about the reverse thread drill bits. They make them tapered too so the deeper it goes the harder it bites... I never thought about the boiling water thing that’s a good idea. No way you will heat the metal enough to make it weaker. I am fortunate to have a wife that works for wurth so I have so much rust off ice max it’s insane.. for those of you who don’t know, rust off ice max is THE best penetrating oil on the market, I’ve seen side by side comparisons and it’s wild. Not only is it magnetic and will vertically work it’s way all they way up a thread it can get the spot you spray it on to -30F. Idc how seized something is, you get it red hot and blast it with that it will come out like butter

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4/29/2020 2:44 PM

Mad Mars wrote:

I'm going to do exactly this tonight. Thumbs up.

rainescustoms99 wrote:

As a mechanic I would say get a reverse thread drill bit for extraction.. but if you are nervous about damaging something I would bet you could put some good jb weld in there and clamp your Allen key into it over night. Idk if you would care about heat. But from there you could heat the stem with a torch then spray wd-40 on it or whatever oil and try and crack it loose. Those extraction bits work wonders though. I’ve gotten some really fucked studs out of engine blocks, exhaust etc with those many times

HavokDJ wrote:

I don’t think he’d be mechanically inclined enough to figure out how to use easy outs (pretty easy to shatter if you’re not careful), do the JB weld thing.

Easy outs would work too.

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4/29/2020 2:50 PM

It’s embarrassing for me sometimes when I don’t know the proper name of something. My first auto boss would make fun of me every time I used the wrong name for a tool. It still happens from time to time with little stuff but I see master techs do it too. Atleast I know the difference between channel locks and pliers now lol or planishing hammer vs. adjusting hammer

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4/29/2020 3:53 PM

HavokDJ wrote:

I don’t think he’d be mechanically inclined enough to figure out how to use easy outs (pretty easy to shatter if you’re not careful), do the JB weld thing.

Scotty0308 wrote:

He may be referring to drill bits that are ground to drill anti-clockwise and not easy outs. As an engineer I’d go with the least intrusive methods first like using a piece of paper in the hex to tighten the Allen key fit, soak the threads in penetrating oil for a bit before you try though and the cracks you hear is the bond between the loctite and threads breaking, if the paper doesn’t work before any grinding and cutting try hammering a torque Allen key 1 size up from the bolt head, this can be enough to take a really positive grip. Another thing to try in drop the steam into boiling water then cool it in the freezer, the expansion and contraction of the steel can release the threads

rainescustoms99 wrote:

I was talking about the reverse thread drill bits. They make them tapered too so the deeper it goes the harder it bites... I never thought about the boiling water thing that’s a good idea. No way you will heat the metal enough to make it weaker. I am fortunate to have a wife that works for wurth so I have so much rust off ice max it’s insane.. for those of you who don’t know, rust off ice max is THE best penetrating oil on the market, I’ve seen side by side comparisons and it’s wild. Not only is it magnetic and will vertically work it’s way all they way up a thread it can get the spot you spray it on to -30F. Idc how seized something is, you get it red hot and blast it with that it will come out like butter

Wurth as in the German tool company that make zebra spanner’s and stuff like that ? My work started using wurth in 2018 after using facom for a long time, the wurth stuff is pretty good. We use petro Canada oils and greases at my work as they make food safe stuff, I work in a biscuit factory as a fitter turner. I’m also the welder of our shop, my work put me through some codes which was cool. Mainly tig on stainless and aluminium and a few copper alloys.

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4/29/2020 4:15 PM

Scotty0308 wrote:

He may be referring to drill bits that are ground to drill anti-clockwise and not easy outs. As an engineer I’d go with the least intrusive methods first like using a piece of paper in the hex to tighten the Allen key fit, soak the threads in penetrating oil for a bit before you try though and the cracks you hear is the bond between the loctite and threads breaking, if the paper doesn’t work before any grinding and cutting try hammering a torque Allen key 1 size up from the bolt head, this can be enough to take a really positive grip. Another thing to try in drop the steam into boiling water then cool it in the freezer, the expansion and contraction of the steel can release the threads

rainescustoms99 wrote:

I was talking about the reverse thread drill bits. They make them tapered too so the deeper it goes the harder it bites... I never thought about the boiling water thing that’s a good idea. No way you will heat the metal enough to make it weaker. I am fortunate to have a wife that works for wurth so I have so much rust off ice max it’s insane.. for those of you who don’t know, rust off ice max is THE best penetrating oil on the market, I’ve seen side by side comparisons and it’s wild. Not only is it magnetic and will vertically work it’s way all they way up a thread it can get the spot you spray it on to -30F. Idc how seized something is, you get it red hot and blast it with that it will come out like butter

Scotty0308 wrote:

Wurth as in the German tool company that make zebra spanner’s and stuff like that ? My work started using wurth in 2018 after using facom for a long time, the wurth stuff is pretty good. We use petro Canada oils and greases at my work as they make food safe stuff, I work in a biscuit factory as a fitter turner. I’m also the welder of our shop, my work put me through some codes which was cool. Mainly tig on stainless and aluminium and a few copper alloys.

That’s pretty cool! And yes it’s German based but they have a location here in jersey where my wife works which is the hq for all of the u.s. they also make chemicals abrasives and ppe. Tig is fun I never learned stick but I could mig or tig anything you want upside down. One thing I have down pat is mig welding, I-car certified suuuwhoo. If you’re welding softer metals and you don’t already use it check out this welding play dough type stuff. It’s reusable and drastically cuts down warping. A bunch of different companies make it. Really makes patch work on quarter panels a breeze

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