New cassette or repair old one?

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5/18/2018 5:29 PM

Hello all,

I currently have a Madera Graffiti hub, its compatable part wise with the profile minis, its laced to a G Sport rollcage. The hub likes to bind up and not spin as freely as it should when tightened down in the frame. I have cleaned it, and replaced the shim that goes in between the driver bearing and hub body bearing. I believe the hub body bearings are binding.

When the wheel is removed if I give it a good whack on each side of the axle with a mallet the hub spins super nice. Once its in the frame things change back to crap. If I take the wheel back out and remove the driver/cog leaving just the axle and hub body bearings it doesn't roll so great. Out comes the mallet and its back to perfect.

The solution for the last month has been to leave the jam nuts loose so that nothing tightens against the hub to hard. This worked great until the nondrive jam nut striped out. axle threads are fine.

So to fix it I'm looking at about $35 for jam nut and body bearings and that may not even fix it. I'm worried it could be something more severe like a bent axle. Both my local shops can't/won't help and are quick to offer new wheels.

I'm deciding between putting more money in this hub or just buying a new wheel. (Looking at the Odyssey HazardLite/Antigram)

Thoughts are greatly appreciated, I can post pics or video of anything if that helps. Thanks!

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5/18/2018 5:51 PM

Can you post up some pictures of the internals?

How long have you had it?

Have you contacted Madera/Profile? They'll usually go above and beyond to help with any issues.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
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5/18/2018 5:59 PM

I contacted them to see what parts are available. I'll follow up with them and see if they can help. I'll get some pics up.

The hub itself came out 8 years ago, I bought it as part of a used complete 2 months ago.

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5/18/2018 6:18 PM

Photo Photo Photo Photo Photo
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5/18/2018 6:28 PM
Edited Date/Time: 5/18/2018 6:29 PM

Shouldn't there be a thin spacer between the driver bearing and the hub body bearing? That's a very interesting wear pattern around the hub body bearing.

Also, it looks as if the non-driveside cone may be grabbing on the hub body; that side's pretty badly beaten. That could explain the tightness; your bearings may be fine if that's the case.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

5/18/2018 6:33 PM

I just put a new spacer in so that's not it. I'm gonna try and get the axle out and bearing off at least the one side again. The pics above are the farthest I have disassembled it. Damn thing won't budge.

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5/18/2018 6:38 PM

Bigfoot4Pres wrote:

I just put a new spacer in so that's not it. I'm gonna try and get the axle out and bearing off at least the one side again. The pics above are the farthest I have disassembled it. Damn thing won't budge.

Are there any shiny points around the non-driveside cone? That would mean it's rubbing. If you can get that cone off, switch it for a stack of washers and try to reproduce the problem.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

5/18/2018 9:16 PM

While that non drive side flange is a little beat up, If this is a bearing issue you absolutely dont have to replace the entire hub. The inner hub shell bearings are only like 10$ each depending on which ones you get and they aren't tooooo hard to replace. I've got a video about it online.

As the guy above me said, that cone definitely has issues and looks pressed into the bearing too far. You can take the axle out and get the cone spacer off by taking both it and the bearing off at the same time.
This is in my video but its an easy explanation.

With driver out and hardware removed, thread an axle nut onto the drive side of the axle so that it will protect the threads from a hammer. Then hit the axle nut/axle with a hammer, pressing the non drive side bearing/cone spacer out of the hub at the same time as the axle.

From here you'll be able to see if that cone spacer is too close or what's actually going on. I would get a new cone spacer even if you do end up replacing bearings.

Also, putting the axle back in is the same process but with axle nut on non drive side after bearing, cone spacer, and jam nut have been put on. Just carefully hammer it back into the hub. Unless you have a press to use.

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5/18/2018 9:57 PM

Thanks for the advice guys. Still can not get the axle to budge at all to be able to inspect the bearings and cone spacer.

With the driver and both jam nuts off it rotates nicely in my hands except for one small spot, about 45 degrees of rotation where I can feel something catch the axle and try and turn the axle in my fingers.

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5/19/2018 12:31 AM

Here's what you should have: Photo
Take all the hardware off the drive side, hold the shell firmly, and smack the drive side of the axle vertically against the floor in a stabbing motion ("I've got to stab her 3 times?") one hard smack should do it.
New cones might help, sometimes if they're damaged they'll bind up against the bearing. Does it have the driver bearing spacer?

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