Odyssey Clutch

This is the coaster that'll make me switch to a coaster.

PORN! FREECOASTER PORNNNNN!

lol if they pull an Eclat Blind

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

lol if they pull an Eclat Blind

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

lol if they pull an Eclat Blind

...more

Not even close

I actually might save for this one.

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

lol if they pull an Eclat Blind

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

lol if they pull an Eclat Blind

...more

Odysseys attention and eye for detail is above all others.

That is kind of what i figured about the adjustment, It's almost like a clutch from a car sort of. I really like the way it is. Press fitted, i like the tension spring, etc. its perfect looking, can't wait to see some in action on the streets.

the 200$ price tag isn't bad either!!

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a bike right now and have been picking out a coaster.

moyboy5 wrote:

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a ...more

moyboy5 wrote:

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a bike right now and have been picking out a coaster.

...more

Empire says July 28th.

http://www.empirebmx.com/odyssey-clutch-freecoaster-hub

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNWqjYUTdhh3Oikz47f3ySr78p4RKANPC

They got youtube videos guys!!!!!! I'm so stoked! this looks like the coaster to end all coasters!

The youtube videos are awesome. It made me more happy about the plastic part of the hub and the way the she male side is is MUCH MUCH MUCH better than I would have expected, i could tell he was rather angry that they forced him to do that though, it's still nice as fuck though so no worries on my part.

If I go coaster, this will be the one!

Im not so sure how much i trust the plastic threading that the adjustment screw is threaded through- i sense a weakpoint their. maybe if they came out with a titanium upgrade for that. I can see epicness but that plastic threaded adjustment just sounds bad to me,

dkTechEthan wrote:

Im not so sure how much i trust the plastic threading that the adjustment screw is threaded through- i sense a weakpoint ...more

dkTechEthan wrote:

Im not so sure how much i trust the plastic threading that the adjustment screw is threaded through- i sense a weakpoint their. maybe if they came out with a titanium upgrade for that. I can see epicness but that plastic threaded adjustment just sounds bad to me,

...more

I think in one of the videos he says it lasts longer because it's not hardened metal contacting hardened metal which would make it last not as long and the hub would eventually skip or something like that. Or maybe I'm just thinking about the clutch mechanism.

If you watched the resistance mechanism video he states that the plastic is low friction nylon and kevlar blend. Since its low friction you wont need a lot of force to move the grub screw like at all. I think adding a titanium upgrade to the gap mechanism is unnecessary because of the possibility of the grub screw seizing in the threads if you dont grease it, thus ruining your slack adjustment. Also if you don't grease it and it hasn't seized the grub screw is going to be harder to move (which would increase the chace of stripping your grub screw. If you got a tough plastic then you wouldn't need to worry about greasing the threads ever. Plus I think it would add more weigh as silly as that sounds. I'm 100% sure odyssey knows what they are doing with this plastic inside their hub, otherwise they wouldn't have used it

I have to say im very impressed with it, but im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female. That would of been just lovely. I know making tooling will cost and whatnot, but if you're putting that much r+d into a hub, you might aswell go all the way. I guess its a lot more feasible to make your own, you wouldnt have to make a tool then, you could do it on a lathe im pretty sure. then just mod it onto an existing hub. But everything else is really well thought out and I like that theyve really put a lot into this hub. We shall see anyway, this is what we said about eclat.... (jokes, still love eclat, but the blind was fucked)

EddiMundo wrote:

I have to say im very impressed with it, but im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female. ...more

EddiMundo wrote:

I have to say im very impressed with it, but im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female. That would of been just lovely. I know making tooling will cost and whatnot, but if you're putting that much r+d into a hub, you might aswell go all the way. I guess its a lot more feasible to make your own, you wouldnt have to make a tool then, you could do it on a lathe im pretty sure. then just mod it onto an existing hub. But everything else is really well thought out and I like that theyve really put a lot into this hub. We shall see anyway, this is what we said about eclat.... (jokes, still love eclat, but the blind was fucked)

...more

>im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female.

George addressed this in a previous thread & in the video. It seems like it would be possible to do but as stated in the video, the tooling to make the driver would make it more expensive. At least that's what he seemed to be getting at.

Maybe G-Sport will finally do this and release it as the G-Coaster later down the road. The price tag would be a bit more obviously, but it seems doable. I'm no engineer so I might be talking out my ass when I say this but if he made the axle 17mm all the way through, and the clutch & driver also compatible with the new 17mm axle, and just used a needle bearing system (or bushing) in the driver… It could work. Then again maybe not cause I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to free coaster tech so idk. Just a thought.

I trust a rear 14mm male axle over a rear 3/8" female axle any day personally.

moyboy5 wrote:

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a ...more

moyboy5 wrote:

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a bike right now and have been picking out a coaster.

...more

We have them available at www.albes.com now.

http://www.albes.com/odyssey-clutch-freecoaster-hub.aspx

We are pretty stoked on the videos explaining them too.

sundaybmxRR wrote:

>im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female.

George addressed this in a previous ...more

sundaybmxRR wrote:

>im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female.

George addressed this in a previous thread & in the video. It seems like it would be possible to do but as stated in the video, the tooling to make the driver would make it more expensive. At least that's what he seemed to be getting at.

Maybe G-Sport will finally do this and release it as the G-Coaster later down the road. The price tag would be a bit more obviously, but it seems doable. I'm no engineer so I might be talking out my ass when I say this but if he made the axle 17mm all the way through, and the clutch & driver also compatible with the new 17mm axle, and just used a needle bearing system (or bushing) in the driver… It could work. Then again maybe not cause I'm not the most knowledgeable when it comes to free coaster tech so idk. Just a thought.

I trust a rear 14mm male axle over a rear 3/8" female axle any day personally.

...more

through plenty of bikeguide lurking, i have found that george's plans for the g-coaster are completely different than the clutch and any other coaster. sounds like it will be aimed more towards flatland. I wish i could find the original thread where george discussed the details. there was mention the ability to engage and pedal backwards to gain fakie speed as well as not even being able to backpedal. George already confirmed that the g-coaster will be radial engagement versus axial engagement so that cancels out a lot of rumors.

EddiMundo wrote:

I have to say im very impressed with it, but im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female. ...more

EddiMundo wrote:

I have to say im very impressed with it, but im just a bit miffed they didnt go all the way and have both sides 14mm female. That would of been just lovely. I know making tooling will cost and whatnot, but if you're putting that much r+d into a hub, you might aswell go all the way. I guess its a lot more feasible to make your own, you wouldnt have to make a tool then, you could do it on a lathe im pretty sure. then just mod it onto an existing hub. But everything else is really well thought out and I like that theyve really put a lot into this hub. We shall see anyway, this is what we said about eclat.... (jokes, still love eclat, but the blind was fucked)

...more

It would have been nice to go 14 both sides, but we really needed to minimise the potential areas for problems with this hub. The G-Coaster has taught me that when you try to change too much too fast the project gets bogged down and never makes it out the door.
By sticking with the existing driver thread, enagement angle etc (that we knew basically worked) we could be confident that we could get from CAD to production pretty fast, and it has only taken about two years which is pretty fast.

Now we have a hub that works solidly and is on the shelves of shops, we can look at developing it further... So maybe in another two years we will have a Mk2 that has dual 14mm and is a bit lighter etc. However, in the meantime, the Clutch is very solid, and the 3/8" bolt on the driveside is still makes for a much stronger assembly than a 14mm solid male axle; and best of all, it is actually available to buy!

I hope this makes sense and seems reasonable.


G.

dkTechEthan wrote:

Im not so sure how much i trust the plastic threading that the adjustment screw is threaded through- i sense a weakpoint ...more

dkTechEthan wrote:

Im not so sure how much i trust the plastic threading that the adjustment screw is threaded through- i sense a weakpoint their. maybe if they came out with a titanium upgrade for that. I can see epicness but that plastic threaded adjustment just sounds bad to me,

...more

There is a lot of length of thread engaging and the grub screw only has to apply enough force to move a couple of grams of plastic, it should be very safe. If you ever strip the thread I am sure we would be happy to warranty it for you.


G.

Gsport George wrote:

It would have been nice to go 14 both sides, but we really needed to minimise the potential areas for problems with this hub. ...more

Gsport George wrote:

It would have been nice to go 14 both sides, but we really needed to minimise the potential areas for problems with this hub. The G-Coaster has taught me that when you try to change too much too fast the project gets bogged down and never makes it out the door.
By sticking with the existing driver thread, enagement angle etc (that we knew basically worked) we could be confident that we could get from CAD to production pretty fast, and it has only taken about two years which is pretty fast.

Now we have a hub that works solidly and is on the shelves of shops, we can look at developing it further... So maybe in another two years we will have a Mk2 that has dual 14mm and is a bit lighter etc. However, in the meantime, the Clutch is very solid, and the 3/8" bolt on the driveside is still makes for a much stronger assembly than a 14mm solid male axle; and best of all, it is actually available to buy!

I hope this makes sense and seems reasonable.


G.

...more

I think it is very reasonable.

Also, yes, a lot of people run 4 pegs and grind both sides, BUT a lot of people don't as well. Honestly if you are worried, don't get it, OR better yet, try running 2 front and one rear peg and do opposite smiths and tooths?

dave lawrence wrote:

I think it is very reasonable.

Also, yes, a lot of people run 4 pegs and grind both sides, BUT a lot of people don't as ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

I think it is very reasonable.

Also, yes, a lot of people run 4 pegs and grind both sides, BUT a lot of people don't as well. Honestly if you are worried, don't get it, OR better yet, try running 2 front and one rear peg and do opposite smiths and tooths?

...more

Perhaps a simpler way for me to put it is: that even with the 3/8" bolt on the driveside this is the strongest freecoaster axle of any hub on the market. So what people might buy instead if they are worried I dont know...


G.

moyboy5 wrote:

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a ...more

moyboy5 wrote:

George says in the video on sale by the end of July or early August. Anyone have word on when it's on sale? I'm building a bike right now and have been picking out a coaster.

...more

Albes BMX Mail Order wrote:

We have them available at www.albes.com now.

http://www.albes.com/odyssey-clutch-freecoaster-hub.aspx

We are pretty stoked ...more

Albes BMX Mail Order wrote:

We have them available at www.albes.com now.

http://www.albes.com/odyssey-clutch-freecoaster-hub.aspx

We are pretty stoked on the videos explaining them too.

...more

I think Ill get one

Gsport George wrote:

It would have been nice to go 14 both sides, but we really needed to minimise the potential areas for problems with this hub. ...more

Gsport George wrote:

It would have been nice to go 14 both sides, but we really needed to minimise the potential areas for problems with this hub. The G-Coaster has taught me that when you try to change too much too fast the project gets bogged down and never makes it out the door.
By sticking with the existing driver thread, enagement angle etc (that we knew basically worked) we could be confident that we could get from CAD to production pretty fast, and it has only taken about two years which is pretty fast.

Now we have a hub that works solidly and is on the shelves of shops, we can look at developing it further... So maybe in another two years we will have a Mk2 that has dual 14mm and is a bit lighter etc. However, in the meantime, the Clutch is very solid, and the 3/8" bolt on the driveside is still makes for a much stronger assembly than a 14mm solid male axle; and best of all, it is actually available to buy!

I hope this makes sense and seems reasonable.


G.

...more

dave lawrence wrote:

I think it is very reasonable.

Also, yes, a lot of people run 4 pegs and grind both sides, BUT a lot of people don't as ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

I think it is very reasonable.

Also, yes, a lot of people run 4 pegs and grind both sides, BUT a lot of people don't as well. Honestly if you are worried, don't get it, OR better yet, try running 2 front and one rear peg and do opposite smiths and tooths?

...more

Gsport George wrote:

Perhaps a simpler way for me to put it is: that even with the 3/8" bolt on the driveside this is the strongest freecoaster ...more

Gsport George wrote:

Perhaps a simpler way for me to put it is: that even with the 3/8" bolt on the driveside this is the strongest freecoaster axle of any hub on the market. So what people might buy instead if they are worried I dont know...


G.

...more

Or just ride it, and if you somehow have issues, Shoot a message to the team at Odyssey?

YEaaaah, so back to the Odyssey Clutch. I just upgraded to one from my Kink EastCoaster, and i wanna understand whats going on when i ride it. So,... I am familiar with free coasters and have been riding a KHE classic style FC hub for a while.
This is what i want to understand, When i am pedaling and then stop to just coast forwards, I hear a click type noise and I feel like it "auto disengages" as soon as you stop pedaling, which I AM NOT complaining about. If I'm correct, thats actually really awesome. It would pretty much mean you won't have to back pedal to disengage the clutch??!! ...i could be way off......ANYWAY Its an amazing hub and I'm just getting used to it after riding KHE style interal style FC hubs.

........it is a noisier hub than my last FC..... just thought i would add

BMADrideNdab wrote:

YEaaaah, so back to the Odyssey Clutch. I just upgraded to one from my Kink EastCoaster, and i wanna understand whats going on ...more

BMADrideNdab wrote:

YEaaaah, so back to the Odyssey Clutch. I just upgraded to one from my Kink EastCoaster, and i wanna understand whats going on when i ride it. So,... I am familiar with free coasters and have been riding a KHE classic style FC hub for a while.
This is what i want to understand, When i am pedaling and then stop to just coast forwards, I hear a click type noise and I feel like it "auto disengages" as soon as you stop pedaling, which I AM NOT complaining about. If I'm correct, thats actually really awesome. It would pretty much mean you won't have to back pedal to disengage the clutch??!! ...i could be way off......ANYWAY Its an amazing hub and I'm just getting used to it after riding KHE style interal style FC hubs.

........it is a noisier hub than my last FC..... just thought i would add

...more

It'll go away in a while

Yeah, they all do that. It's just wearing in.

I would recommend adding a bit more grease to your hub, you can do this by injecting some through the adjustment hole, or by pulling your hub apart.