Odyssey Clutch v2 FC Review ๐Ÿ™ƒ

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10/16/2018 8:05 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/14/2018 9:42 AM

Figured I'd write my own review on this hub since I have actually owned one long enough to do so.. Please keep in mind through this review that I have only owned my new Clutch v2 since January & have only physically capable of jibbing on curbs or at a skatepark up until November. Also, I had a few major surgeries in the past year that have kept me from riding for a good portion of my time owning this hub.

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Overall Review

The Good
- Bomb-proof 14mm Female Axle
- Very smooth engagement & coasting
- George French is an amazing & very helpful human being

The Bad
- This hub is wayy overly-engineered, too much so for it's own good
- The plastic assembly is garbage & can't handle very basic riding or maintenance
- There is a freaking hole in the hub shell, which is supposed to be protected by a ring that doesn't stay in place
- The c-clip is very frustrating, especially if you don't have the right tool
- Odyssey's Warranty Department will make replacing your defective hub as much of a ball-ache as they possibly can. I'm beginning to wish I would have just thrown the damn thing away instead of reaching out for their help.

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Out of the Box;
- This hub spins & functions perfectly out of the box! But every other review for this hub has probably already told you that.

In the weeks after;
- Once it broke in after a few sessions, it became very easily crank-flippable (doubles were definitely possible.)
- I was beginning to have issues with the ring on the hub shell. It seems to slide off track on its own & leave the hole in the hubshell open to nature. All good, nothing a little super glue can't fix.

In the months that have gone by since;
- It finally came time to re-grease the hub internals, which required hub disassembly & re-assembly due to the built-up gunk in the hole in the hub shell.
- It was a major pain in the ass to remove the lock ring that holds the internals in. Once removed, disassembly was very easy & straight-forward. Cleaned & greased everything thoroughly & properly re-assembled the hub following George's guide.
- The hub now has ghost pedal issues & no longer crankflips. There is an incredible amount of resistance when back pedaling. I chalked this up to me using too thick of grease & continued to ride it hoping it would wear in.

This past week;
- A few months have gone by & the issue still hasn't resolved itself. I added liquid lubricant in the slack-adjustment hole which made the hub barely crank-flippable again, while still having ghost pedal & resistance issues.
- Yesterday I disassembled the hub once again & wiped away most of the grease & added a bunch of liquid lubricant. Re-assembled the hub & the problems became significantly worse.
- Immediately disassembled it a third time, this time completely cleaning the internal parts for better inspection. This time I removed the plastic assembly from the axle so I could add grease/lube there thoroughly as well.
- Come to find out- both pieces of the plastic assembly are broken in some way. The slack adjuster is cracked by the grub screw & the resistance mechanism is missing a handful of tabs.
- E-mailed George French all of this information.

Today;
- George emailed be back saying that he doesn't believe the broken pieces of the plastic assembly would cause my problems, but that he would send the info to Warranty to replace those parts for me, so we will find out!

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Update: Since replacing the Plastic mechanisms & putting a new Axle in (Odyssey deemed my axle as defective,) I have also somehow managed to smash the splines on the Clutch & shatter the Drive-Side Collar. Odyssey sent me a new Clutch & Collar, which I installed with EXTRA grease. None of these new parts have fixed the issues & Odyssey is now refusing to help me any further until I ship them the wheel on my dime (which also means taking another 2 weeks away from riding while waiting for them to ship it back..)

I'm not sure what I'm more disappointed in; The hub itself or Odyssey's warranty department for seemingly doing anything & everything they can to make this more of a hassle on my part.

I feel ripped off. This whole ordeal makes me honestly regret buying ANOTHER Odyssey Hub (after riding my first one for nearly 2 years without any issues.) Could have gotten an entire coaster wheelset from another brand for the price of this hub alone & had far less issues with it.

Seriously though, at what point do they just replace the fucking hub itself instead of replacing it piece-by-piece?! I bought this hub so I could ride my bike, but now my bike is constantly in pieces waiting for replacement hub parts. & now they expect me to send my whole wheel off for a couple weeks at my expense!! WHAT THE FUCK ODYSSEY?!
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Axle + Internals before cleaning
Photo

Cracked slack-adjustment mechanism
Photo

Broken resistance mechanism
Photo

Shattered Drive-Side Collar Photo

Smashed Clutch Splines
Photo


Also, for the record- Before I got this new Clutch v2 in January, I previously had already owned a Clutch v2 for well over a year & didn't have any issues with that one! I also had never had to disassemble that one though.

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 8:45 AM

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 8:49 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

They must be sleepinggrin solid review in my opinion

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10/16/2018 8:58 AM

HOW DARE YOU SPEAK BAD OF ODYSSEY!!!!!!!

Haha jokes aside, good and honest review brotha! I love my Clutch V2cool

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

10/16/2018 9:02 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

They updated the V1 for performance issues. There's no reason to believe they won't need to do the same for this one.

Also, anything that's not user serviceable is of no use to me.

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10/16/2018 9:02 AM

I replaced the crap adjustable ring with a max slack solid ring

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10/16/2018 9:03 AM

But odyssey are the best! It's your fault! You took it apart even though they told you not to!
A lot of freecoasters seem over engineered imo. I think a lot of people expect too much from them though, like having a clutch mechanism, and wanting the axle to hold up to grinds. That combined with limited space due to 9t drivers means they kind of have to be over thought. A 10mm axle and no peg use would make them pretty bomb proof, or even a bigger driver (a little like the ratchet issues). But the consumer wants what the consumer wants. They've come a long way though.

It sounds like George is going to hook you up though. So hopefully it'll be all good.

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10/16/2018 9:04 AM
Edited Date/Time: 10/16/2018 12:25 PM

My Clutch goes through some serious abuse, I climb several hills every weekday to get to work. Never opened it though-Just keep washing it with WD-40 then slamming more grease and lube in the hole. Engages and Coasts fine.

Only other coasters I'd consider is the WTP/Eclat Helix/Cortex Coaster or MAYBE the Madera Gulf.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, For the longest time I couldn't Crankflip My Clutch v2, I would flood the driver and BB with chain lube, I also until recently(due to a jammed Chain Tensioner) ran a very loose chain. Recently It started Crank-flipping very well, riding slammed so my chain tension is perfect rn and it crankflips great.

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10/16/2018 9:10 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

JPC wrote:

They updated the V1 for performance issues. There's no reason to believe they won't need to do the same for this one.

Also, anything that's not user serviceable is of no use to me.

The biggest update they could do would be to replace the damn plastic junk with brass or something of the sort.. after looking closely at my broken resistance mechanism, it makes total sense why it would break.

Plastic hub internals = bad idea. Even I know this!?

Seriously though, I'd love if they came out with a model that
1. Doesnt have plastic parts
2. Doesn't have a hole in the hub shell
It's a great hub without those 2 factors! & I loovee the axle & press-fit hubguard.

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 9:16 AM
Edited Date/Time: 10/16/2018 9:16 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

JPC wrote:

They updated the V1 for performance issues. There's no reason to believe they won't need to do the same for this one.

Also, anything that's not user serviceable is of no use to me.

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

The biggest update they could do would be to replace the damn plastic junk with brass or something of the sort.. after looking closely at my broken resistance mechanism, it makes total sense why it would break.

Plastic hub internals = bad idea. Even I know this!?

Seriously though, I'd love if they came out with a model that
1. Doesnt have plastic parts
2. Doesn't have a hole in the hub shell
It's a great hub without those 2 factors! & I loovee the axle & press-fit hubguard.

I used a KHE style coaster for years doing flatland stuff. If I were to buy one today, it would be the outrageously expensive z coaster.

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10/16/2018 9:21 AM

JPC wrote:

They updated the V1 for performance issues. There's no reason to believe they won't need to do the same for this one.

Also, anything that's not user serviceable is of no use to me.

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

The biggest update they could do would be to replace the damn plastic junk with brass or something of the sort.. after looking closely at my broken resistance mechanism, it makes total sense why it would break.

Plastic hub internals = bad idea. Even I know this!?

Seriously though, I'd love if they came out with a model that
1. Doesnt have plastic parts
2. Doesn't have a hole in the hub shell
It's a great hub without those 2 factors! & I loovee the axle & press-fit hubguard.

JPC wrote:

I used a KHE style coaster for years doing flatland stuff. If I were to buy one today, it would be the outrageously expensive z coaster.

I loved my KHE hubs other than the pesky driver bearing in my Shadow Raptor (basic sealed cartridge bearing.)

Once a month I'd pop them open to clean & grease. No issues at all.

Ah how simple things were back then..

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 9:58 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

I don't chew ass on weekdays, but I'm kinda with you in thinking plastic parts with a hole to the outside environment are a couple of "who thought of this" elements.

But I always appreciate you, man. I've been thinking about one of these vs. another WTP freecoaster in the future.

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BMX over 30: Eat clean, Stretch, and Pray.

10/16/2018 10:03 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

Was expecting to have my ass chewed out by an army of angry Odyssey fan boys by now..wassat

Probably all in school.

Honestly, I think this was well thought out and written. Not just "dis part sux". Kudos sir!

As to the hub, I was always curious about the durability of the plastics in such a high stress location. I don't really run a coaster anymore or care to all that much, so it doesn't affect me too harshly. I did like my Demolition Rotator though. Held up great and I sold the hub to a homie.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

10/16/2018 10:05 AM

I had the sunday cyclone (clutch clone) and the the c-clip just use 2 spokes to remove works lije a charm. Secondly as soon as i got the hub i removed. The plastic mechanism and made 2 at work one from aluminum (which sucked) and one from leftover titanium stock. The titanium one held up amazingly all the way up till I pulled it out of the hub and passed along to a friend since I'm now along the coaster.

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10/16/2018 10:06 AM

Ive had problems with my V2 the plastic adjustable ring broke on mine and it has never been crankflipable but it works great for what I do with it. I too wish the internals had a re-working or they offered steel internal Replacements.

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10/16/2018 10:07 AM

Isn't it plastic so it doesn't cause any resistance/works like a plastic bush? Not sure brass would work as well. A solid, non adjustable ring would be more durable, like in other hubs

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10/16/2018 10:15 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

Isn't it plastic so it doesn't cause any resistance/works like a plastic bush? Not sure brass would work as well. A solid, non adjustable ring would be more durable, like in other hubs

Yes, and that is why I was thinking brass would work.. Because most bushings are made from brass anyways (right?) Or am I thinking of a different material?

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 10:16 AM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

The biggest update they could do would be to replace the damn plastic junk with brass or something of the sort.. after looking closely at my broken resistance mechanism, it makes total sense why it would break.

Plastic hub internals = bad idea. Even I know this!?

Seriously though, I'd love if they came out with a model that
1. Doesnt have plastic parts
2. Doesn't have a hole in the hub shell
It's a great hub without those 2 factors! & I loovee the axle & press-fit hubguard.

JPC wrote:

I used a KHE style coaster for years doing flatland stuff. If I were to buy one today, it would be the outrageously expensive z coaster.

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

I loved my KHE hubs other than the pesky driver bearing in my Shadow Raptor (basic sealed cartridge bearing.)

Once a month I'd pop them open to clean & grease. No issues at all.

Ah how simple things were back then..

I haven't cleaned my raptor in months and it's going on 3 years. I used to clean it much more but I have to replace driver bearings all of the time due to over or under tightening the cone nut..it makes noise now but I will ride it until it's done

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10/16/2018 10:18 AM

blizzbikes wrote:

I had the sunday cyclone (clutch clone) and the the c-clip just use 2 spokes to remove works lije a charm. Secondly as soon as i got the hub i removed. The plastic mechanism and made 2 at work one from aluminum (which sucked) and one from leftover titanium stock. The titanium one held up amazingly all the way up till I pulled it out of the hub and passed along to a friend since I'm now along the coaster.

Make me a titanium mechanism lmaoo

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 10:18 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

Isn't it plastic so it doesn't cause any resistance/works like a plastic bush? Not sure brass would work as well. A solid, non adjustable ring would be more durable, like in other hubs

Yes it was plastic for that reason. I made nylatron spacers for the sides of the titanium mechanism. I honestly looking back at it wish I would have just made the mechanism from nylatron.

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10/16/2018 10:24 AM

I replaced the adjustable slack thingy with the max slack one...

I keep my chain tight but if I loosened it up some crankflips would be achieveable...

I'm also not hard on mine, I'm not really hard on bike parts period. I'm 130 pounds, just a little twig, so I dont usually have to worry about stuff as much as some lollaughing

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

10/16/2018 11:07 AM

i totally forgot to submit my comment on this when you first posted it.

im glad you posted this review as ive been looking to get one myself idk why theyre using plastic internal parts rather than metal. it seems like its just better to go with something KHE internals

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Lessons not learned in blood are soon forgotten

10/16/2018 11:13 AM

RonnieRawdawg wrote:

i totally forgot to submit my comment on this when you first posted it.

im glad you posted this review as ive been looking to get one myself idk why theyre using plastic internal parts rather than metal. it seems like its just better to go with something KHE internals

My only advice is to avoid the "average" KHE coaster. Get something like the Primo which uses a needle bearing in the driver or the Merritt with a bushing driver. The average sealed cartridge bearings in a coaster driver suck really badly.

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


10/16/2018 12:12 PM

I've landed 450 flyout trying 5's , half cabbed off some 2 foot drops or so , its lasted tailwhips attempts . I'm happy with mine . Never opened it . Only grub is that you can't crankflip mine at all ( even with a new BB , loose chain, loose crankbolts , chain freshly greased . My alignment was decent too) . Other than that I love it , it's a part you buy and dont worry about anymore , for me at least . That grunt screw cover does move all the time though . Wouldn't be a bad idea to just JB weld tacks at the end of it to keep the hole covered permanently

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Instagram : braydenbuckingham
My Cult 2 Short

10/16/2018 12:57 PM

Brass can be used as a bush, depending on which direction it's taking load, and usually doesn't need to slide nicely against another material. Brass is harder than alloy, and will quite happily cut into it

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10/16/2018 2:41 PM
Edited Date/Time: 10/16/2018 2:46 PM

Plastic should be fine for those parts. They should never see any load, at all, besides the rotation of the drag mechanism.

I use a spoke bent into a 'v' shape with the head cut off to remove the c-clip when I can't find the proper tool.

Ghost pedal in a coaster is usually a problem with the driveside bearing.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

10/16/2018 3:24 PM

HardBMX_Tim wrote:

My only advice is to avoid the "average" KHE coaster. Get something like the Primo which uses a needle bearing in the driver or the Merritt with a bushing driver. The average sealed cartridge bearings in a coaster driver suck really badly.

yea i was going with merritt hub anyway since i get a "homie" discount from em. but ive been eyeing the clutch

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Lessons not learned in blood are soon forgotten

11/4/2018 2:12 PM

Update: Since this, Odyssey has sent me both 1. A whole new plastic mech & 2. A new axle, none of which has solved the issues I'm experiencing.

Honestly at this point, I'm considering just asking if they'll warranty it for an Antigram. This Clutch is getting kind of annoying to deal with..

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


11/5/2018 8:49 AM

Freecoasters sound like an absolute ball ache.

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

11/5/2018 8:52 AM

Aitkenisgod wrote:

Freecoasters sound like an absolute ball ache.

I rode a demolition rotator for 3 years , worked great never took it apart once , then it exploded in a heavy crash and I felt like I got my moneysworth out of it and moved on

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