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9/23/2018 5:27 PM

So i dont know what the shit is going on, but my clear Odyssey Slim x Fours squeal like a motherfucker. Even when toed in...

So i use the same thing to toe in my pads all the time, a thinish piece of cardboard that worked perfectly! It would be toed in just enough to squeak just a little bit, but not a whole lot and still have a solid feel when pulling the brakes. I toed them in the same as always today, but for some reason, they fucking HOWLED. So i toed the pads in a little more and they are quieter now, but they feel spongey as fuck. Which i hate.

So I'm thinking about scratching the whole clear pad deal and getting some black pads...

But here's the thing, i run black rims. And i know black pads dont grip as well on black rims... but they are hard anodized rims (Gsport Rollcage) so would i be able to use black pads and still have good braking power like the clear pads? Im specifically thinking about getting black Slim by Fours if that matters..

Thanks y'all!smile

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

9/23/2018 5:39 PM

Colored rims are style over functionality.

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9/23/2018 6:10 PM

I run black pads on black rims. It works just fine. Way better than clear ever did. I had the same problem with squealing like a possessed elephant plus they never worked well. Either squealing abd locking or slightly less squealing and sucking. Clear pads just suck IMO.

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9/23/2018 6:15 PM

Try salmon pads? Kool Stops are my go-to

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9/23/2018 6:28 PM

Best pads I ever had were purple Fly Zapatas. Would lock my wheels up on a dime, but for some reason the black Zapatas didnt do a damn thing. Got clear Zapatas as well and the rubber melted right off during the first session on them..

I tried my luck, thinking purple was some magical compound, by getting purple KoolStop pads. They felt like solid Nylon and also did not stop a damn thing.
I then tried the same KoolStop pads in Dual Compound ("Salmon"/"Gum" is the soft compound) & they grabbed the rim pretty well but weren't ideal for brake tricks.

Then I tried clear Odyssey Pads & KoolStop Supra 2s, and the Supra 2s had the best stopping power by a landslide (and come pre-toed by design.) Both were obnoxiously loud though.

However, I found that I didnt have to worry about the noise of the brakes if I only pulled the lever in case of trick or emergency.. Maybe try not using your brakes unless for those reasons? I.e. dont use them to slow down before hitting a jump, etc.

Also keep in mind that it will make very little noise if you can lock the wheel instead of letting the pad rub around your rim. Get a hand cruncher and work on your grip strength to help with that if need-be.

Also, since I've stopped running brakes, I've been informed by a few experienced brake riders & a certified bike mechanic that you should NOT toe in your brake pads on a BMX bike. I dont know the truth behind this, as I've always been told (via this forum) that toe-ing in pads is a must. However, looking back at it, I kinda wonder if all those pads I tried would have worked better if they were able to make full contact immediately with the rim..


TLDR; experimenting with brake pads sucks.
If you really can't stand loud brakes, Dual Compound/Salmon/Gum is the way to go, though you wont be able to expect the same stopping power as a clear pad.
For maximum stopping power, there is none better than the KoolStop Supra 2 in Clear.

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


9/23/2018 6:31 PM

I'll also add that I tried all of said pads on a ridiculous gyro set up, so chances are I was losing most of my stopping power from that alone..

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Refs : SnM An1mal, GThompson121, Chuck8273, blizzbikes, bmxsteve99, kevin.brock.338, zinum, Brian_Griffin, billyhandyjunior, riverM, tomdon
Instagram : @timhankinsbmx


9/23/2018 6:32 PM

Lol I actually fixed it, i just sanded the pad down a little and it was just like it was before, just a light squeak! Thanks y'all!

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

9/23/2018 7:52 PM

Cleaning the rim and pads helps! You could try toeing the pads out instead of in too

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9/24/2018 12:55 PM
Edited Date/Time: 9/24/2018 12:55 PM

This and all your noise will be gone but the stopping power will stay the same.

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9/24/2018 1:04 PM

am-shaegar wrote: This and all your noise will be gone but the stopping power will stay the same.

Apparently, BK all day uses clear Supra 2's and his riding is annoying as shit because of the constant squeaky squeaky. Do you mean the pink ones in particular?

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9/24/2018 1:12 PM
Edited Date/Time: 9/24/2018 1:12 PM

am-shaegar wrote: This and all your noise will be gone but the stopping power will stay the same.

jbales wrote:

Apparently, BK all day uses clear Supra 2's and his riding is annoying as shit because of the constant squeaky squeaky. Do you ...more

Yeah i had Kool Stop Supra 2s in clear and they were fucking annoying. They were too squeaky...

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

9/24/2018 1:33 PM

Yeah, the colored ones have no squeak at all...like none!
And I had my share of squeaky pads laughing

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9/24/2018 10:42 PM

red pads are good for these situations

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Refs: Future FBM, Warchol2 WtfKennethXp Riversiderider TCbmx Riversiderider JakeSalbert

9/24/2018 11:10 PM

i have black slim by 4s and black hazard lite and everything works perfectly fine, no need for that instant lock up squeaky bullshit unless you're strictly riding park imo
i like to slow down a bit without ear raping or skidding

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9/25/2018 2:57 AM

Mine squeak like hell. But I'd rather that, than them not locking up on a abubaca/fufanu.

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

9/25/2018 3:17 AM

Back in the days of me using a brake, I hated squeal, and still do. I used stock hombre pads on a chrome rim, it never squealed, but would still hold well enough for brake tricks. Just man up and pull your lever properly :p

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9/25/2018 5:49 AM

tiho wrote:

i have black slim by 4s and black hazard lite and everything works perfectly fine, no need for that instant lock up squeaky ...more

You're using your brake wrong.

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9/25/2018 6:43 AM

I dont know why you shouldn't toe in the pads.. that seems kinda odd...

I feel you get more braking power with toed in pads...though i could be wrong.. if someone could shed some more info about that that would be cool.

Because i feel that the pads would grab better and harder when toed in properly...

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

9/25/2018 6:52 AM
Edited Date/Time: 9/25/2018 6:52 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

I dont know why you shouldn't toe in the pads.. that seems kinda odd...

I feel you get more braking power with toed in ...more

My guess would be
More contact area->more friction->brake harder
With a toed in pad the contact point with the biggest pressure is smaller which would lead to less friction. This could be totally off tho so don't trust me

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9/25/2018 6:57 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

I dont know why you shouldn't toe in the pads.. that seems kinda odd...

I feel you get more braking power with toed in ...more

Rabbe wrote:

My guess would be
More contact area->more friction->brake harder
With a toed in pad the contact point with the biggest ...more

Well exactly. Flat toed in pads would have more surface area, but with toed in pads i believe the pull will be harder...

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

9/25/2018 7:15 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

I dont know why you shouldn't toe in the pads.. that seems kinda odd...

I feel you get more braking power with toed in ...more

Rabbe wrote:

My guess would be
More contact area->more friction->brake harder
With a toed in pad the contact point with the biggest ...more

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

Well exactly. Flat toed in pads would have more surface area, but with toed in pads i believe the pull will be harder...

I like the lever to come to an abrupt stop if you know what I mean. That calls for 100% parallel pads.

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9/25/2018 7:59 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

I dont know why you shouldn't toe in the pads.. that seems kinda odd...

I feel you get more braking power with toed in ...more

It's the same. Toeing in (or out) literally just helps prevent squeal when feathering the brake. The pads are rubber and bend until they touch the rim flat anyway. Same surface area contact and everything.

Squeal doesn't always come from the pads either though, it can come from vibrations through the arms/mounts. Which is why greasing everything up properly can help relieve the sound too

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9/25/2018 1:03 PM

I've got black rims and the pads that come with the Evo 2.0 and they don't squeal. When I had the clear ghost pads they squealed like a bastard. I've noticed on colored rims once the pads break in they start to quiet down.

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9/25/2018 1:16 PM

Aitkenisgod wrote:

Mine squeak like hell. But I'd rather that, than them not locking up on a abubaca/fufanu.

It is annoying when the brakes give out on a brake trick...hate it.

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9/25/2018 10:39 PM

tiho wrote:

i have black slim by 4s and black hazard lite and everything works perfectly fine, no need for that instant lock up squeaky ...more

jbales wrote:

You're using your brake wrong.

teach me, master, whats the correct way to use my brake?
yall just sound annoying with screaming brakes thinking they have to lock up immediatly when you touch the lever
i have zero problems with fufanus, abubacas etc

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9/26/2018 8:22 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

I dont know why you shouldn't toe in the pads.. that seems kinda odd...

I feel you get more braking power with toed in ...more

grumpySteve wrote:

It's the same. Toeing in (or out) literally just helps prevent squeal when feathering the brake. The pads are rubber and bend ...more

Toeing in isn't just for squeal reduction. The primary purpose of toeing in was to improve brake performance.

Imagine a a large rim (27" example) with a high rotational speed and a single pole brake mount (such as a side pull caliper).
If the brakes pads are perfectly parallel to the rim, when they make contact the force of the rim rotating and the flex in the calipers will pull the leading edge of the pad off the rim. What you want is a toe in, so that the leading edge of the pad touches the rim first, and pulls the rest of the pad in with it, essentially wedging the brake pad against the rim. This gives you maximum stopping power, at the expense of some modulation. V brakes also needed toeing in, those long arms flexed like crazy. Your car brakes are toed in for the same reasons - massive rotational speed and caliper flex.

On a BMX bike, we have smaller rims, less rotational speed. We also have U brakes with short, stiff, stubby arms that don't flex much. So the mechanic who said not to toe in BMX, was right (ish) in that it doesn't matter that much for us. You can still do it for noise prevention, balance, and maybe to counter the small amount of flex in our brakes.

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New tech can't beat old school cool...or can it?
1987 O.O.S. Redline RL20II (Old Old Stock - this ain't no museum piece kids!)
2012 Norco Deviant
1996 GT Avalanche LE w/ Full 2002 XT upgrade and NE Total Air MZO fork

9/26/2018 6:35 PM

I just found some new Odyssey A pads in the red (medium) conpound, think they'll be good?

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

9/27/2018 6:57 AM

Oldguyjon wrote:

Toeing in isn't just for squeal reduction. The primary purpose of toeing in was to improve brake performance.

Imagine a a ...more

Great explanation

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