Question about chain??

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12/29/2015 3:56 PM

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Is a half link used as a master link? Does it clip on like a master link? Pressed in with chain breaker? Can i run a half link next to master link? Reason I'm asking is, i keep breaking chains at half link
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F¬ Bom 5403692331

12/29/2015 4:48 PM

You have to use a chainbreaker on it just like a regular link.

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I love my bike but i hate myself
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IG @curtis_cantbmxwell
@powersbikeshop
@kirolling

12/29/2015 4:54 PM

Thanks blaaaaaa. I thought i was doing it right. Maybe i got a batch of bad half links? Broke 2 in a week.. is it ok to run next to master link?

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F¬ Bom 5403692331

12/29/2015 4:56 PM

Halflinks are just weaker. I only use one if i really need it and it comes pre installed on a chain.

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I love my bike but i hate myself
bike check

IG @curtis_cantbmxwell
@powersbikeshop
@kirolling

12/29/2015 5:28 PM

Right on..... I can do without the half link? Looks like the Sunday sprocket going back on??? ( And this has nothing to do with Odyssey ) hahaha haha

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F¬ Bom 5403692331

12/29/2015 5:53 PM

If you have the $$$ to spend you can pick-up an Odyssey Keychain... That way you can just add/ remove the master half link when switching sprockets. Or like blaaaaaaaaa said, get one with a factory installed half link.

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12/29/2015 7:49 PM

I use a half link chain and have not broken it in 3+ years, and my previous half link was 5+ years old.

But yea, you can use it, or take it out.

You need a chain breaker UNLESS it is one of these:

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

12/30/2015 10:57 AM

I don't understand all the half-link chain talk. It must be for people dialing their chains to fit slammed wheels. I personally adjust my rear wheel to tension using only full links. I take the half links off with a chain tool and don't use any quick connect links. YMMV, I just don't like to take any chances when it comes to snapping chains.

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12/30/2015 11:29 AM

johnduff86 wrote:

I don't understand all the half-link chain talk. It must be for people dialing their chains to fit slammed wheels. I ...more

Kids like to dial it in so they can uber-slam their wheel with no room for slippage. The downside is when they get a flat they get to take their chain off.

I still haven't snapped a half link. Had a Shadow interlock one for 5 years, then an interlock 2 for 3 plus now.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

12/30/2015 8:37 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/30/2015 8:39 PM

johnduff86 wrote:

I don't understand all the half-link chain talk. It must be for people dialing their chains to fit slammed wheels. I ...more

It has everything to do with the frame and CS length... One chain link is roughly equivalent to 4 teeth and 1/2" of your CS length. A half link is roughly equivalent to 2 teeth and 1/4" of your CS length.

For example... my frame has a max CS length of 13.75" and a slammed CS length of 13.475". When using a 28t-10t gear ratio and only full links, i'm forced to keep my axle at the most rear of my drop out (13.75"). If I use a half link instead of a full link I can keep my axle pretty much slammed at around 13.5", or less (either way I only have 2 options). It's all personal preference, but i'm just not a fan of having my axle washers hanging past my drop-outs.

I had to cut my Odyssey Hollow Keychain for my previous 25t-9t set-up, but had an issues with the replacement 9t driver. That left me one link short for my 28t-10t set-up, so I just ordered and installed another full link master link and pretty much going to see how it holds up.

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12/30/2015 9:49 PM

blaaaaaaaaa wrote:

Halflinks are just weaker. I only use one if i really need it and it comes pre installed on a chain.

I don't see how half links would be weaker, considering full link chains stretch more than a loose cunt. Lol. I haven't been using a half link chain long enough to have it break, but I can already say I'm having just as bad of a time with the Shadow Interlock as I was with my usual Walmart chains because the pins keep backing out thru the plates. I think this may be because the pins ride on the guard on my MDS sprocket tho, but it's getting really annoying already either way

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12/30/2015 10:38 PM

blaaaaaaaaa wrote:

Halflinks are just weaker. I only use one if i really need it and it comes pre installed on a chain.

-Havok- wrote:

I don't see how half links would be weaker, considering full link chains stretch more than a loose cunt. Lol. I haven't been ...more

Halflinks are more prone to snapping because of the extra bend in them. It's a proven thing.

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I love my bike but i hate myself
bike check

IG @curtis_cantbmxwell
@powersbikeshop
@kirolling

12/30/2015 11:03 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/30/2015 11:06 PM

blaaaaaaaaa wrote:

Halflinks are more prone to snapping because of the extra bend in them. It's a proven thing.

Yeah I can believe that, but if they're forged like that, they shouldn't be weaker technically. I do find it funny that alot of pros are using full link chains, so it must be true. Like I said tho, I haven't been running one long enough to have it break, so I can't really speak on it, and the only problem I seem to be having is the one I mentioned. But my old Walmart KMC chains used to break at least once a day (usually several times) because the links are about half the thickness of the Shadow ones. I swear I've spent more time fixing chains in the last 5 years than actually riding, and it got to the point where alot of the time I just rode chainless so I wouldn't have to deal with it. I said it before and am saying it again, I'm about to go back to a mid school 3/16" chain setup. Lol.

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12/30/2015 11:07 PM

-Havok- wrote:

I don't see how half links would be weaker, considering full link chains stretch more than a loose cunt. Lol. I haven't been ...more

Half links stretch a lott more than full links do thanks to the "pre-bent" design in the links

Which is also why a lot of people think they're weaker too because the pre-bent metal is constantly being stressed as you pedal. But I'm not 100% sure on if they actually are weaker or not. At the same time though they've also been stated to be stronger than full link chains when it comes to taking impacts like when you mess up a grind and hit your sprocket or something.

That being said, every time I've ridden a half link in my chain, I've snapped it...

Also, my Shadow chain did the same thing yours with a regular sprocket. I thought it was just bad links or something so I replaced them, but they kept doing it in other areas so I just got rid of the chain altogether. Never found out why it did that though.

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12/30/2015 11:24 PM

You're not supposed to re use links. Once you've pushed a pin out, you've deformed the plate. When you push it back in, you deform the plate even more. If you keep snapping links, it's because you keep replacing them wrong.
Half link chains do stretch more as the bend in them tries to pull itself straight under load. Plus, there's more places for it to break (twice as many) than a normal chain. A 510 full link chain will take the same kind of impacts.
If you want to run a single half link, buy a single half link. Don't use links from an old full chain.
I personally use a ybn 410 chain (I get em cheap), 4 know they're not great, but they're cheap to replace. You can snap or at least weaken any chain by landing on it so I don't see the point in buying expensive ones.
I have snapped links and replaced them, but I also replace my chain fairly often to lower the wear on my sprocket and driver

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12/30/2015 11:27 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/30/2015 11:35 PM

sundaybmxRR wrote:

Half links stretch a lott more than full links do thanks to the "pre-bent" design in the links

Which is also why a lot of ...more

I think the problem is the heads on the pins can only be pushed out like one or two times before the pin heads go flat and the holes are too big, then they just fall out leaving the link useless. Plus the first time you crank down on the loose pin and it pulls sideways while only connected to one side, it ovalizes the holes on both sides if the link as well, which is what I'm seeing now on mine. Back to my previous statement about being loose right.... I've always bent a full link into a half link in my Walmart chains, yet snapped nearly every regular full link in the same chain. I always figured that would be the weakest point as well, but never had a problem ironically. Could've just bought a real half link I know, but alot of the time I'm just too lazy to drive to the bike shop. Lol. Sad to say, but I'm probably just gonna buy a new full link and save the Shadow chain just for half links to dial in CS length tbh. And yeah I know that pushing them out deforms them. Exactly why I just push them back in with the chain breaker, then hammer the shit out of the pins on concrete, so they get even more flared out than they were in the first place. Just haven't done it yet on the newest problem pin, once again, too lazy. Lol. I'll probably do it tomorrow tho because I'm tired of having to push the pin back into place after every lap or two around the skatepark

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12/31/2015 8:24 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

You're not supposed to re use links. Once you've pushed a pin out, you've deformed the plate. When you push it back in, you ...more

It actually doesn't lower the wear on a sprocket/driver, it means your sprocket and driver are constantly being worn into new chains. They all wear together. Teeth deform to the chain, and a new chain will not be the same shape etc which can cause noises and prematurely wear the chain. A new chain on old sprockets and drivers will wear the chain faster into the wear of the sprocket and driver, just like replacing a sprocket and using the old chain will cause noise issues and wear the sprocket into the chain.

Ideally replacing them together is best, but we all know that won't happen with most BMXers.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

12/31/2015 9:50 AM

If you have micro dropouts on your frame like I do, a halflink is near mandatory for chain adjustment. Not much wiggle room back there. Also I swiched to a shadow supreme chain, i love it. No stretch, but it's expensive. I'll buy a second one if they're around when i need to replace it, which seems like it's going to be a long long time from now.

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12/31/2015 10:54 AM

dave lawrence wrote:

It actually doesn't lower the wear on a sprocket/driver, it means your sprocket and driver are constantly being worn into new ...more

Wow. You again? A chain will continue to stretch, until everything is worn and eventually snap. The more often you replace the chain, the less it wears the driver and sprocket (yes, chains stretch most when new, but they will continue).
On a customers bike, with gears, I always replace chain and cassette. A chainset will outlive both, usually 3 or 4 cassettes to a chainset (as long as chain and cassette are replaced when needed). It's possible on geared bikes to replace just a chain and increase the life of the cassette (depending on riding style, I don't know how they ride, so I replace). If neither are replaced, after time they will wear the chainset too.
The difference between how they wear on a bmx is purely down to materials used. A chromo single speed driver will not wear as quickly as the cogs on a 9 speed cassette. A bmx sprocket also won't wear as quickly as the rings on a chainset (obviously, quality of the rings, and whether the rings are replaceable is a factor, but is irrelevant here as they're much narrower so still wear quicker than your average bmx sprocket). As a chain stretches, it widens the gap between the teeth of the cogs. If you replace the chain before it stretches too much, it won't be wearing those teeth. If you continue to use a chain it will continue to stretch, thus wearing the teeth more and more, until the driver and sprocket need to be replaced.

Unless everything I've learnt and been taught over the past 20 years is wrong.... Although I guess the fact that I don't have wear issues on my own bikes, or my customers, would suggest it's not. Stop trying to troll me please.

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12/31/2015 12:09 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

Wow. You again? A chain will continue to stretch, until everything is worn and eventually snap. The more often you replace the ...more

Really, me again? YES. You are spitting inaccurate information. Chains wear into sprockets, especially with the torque and pressure of a BMX bike, being that you have a 25 (or so) tooth (nearly always) ALLOY chainring with a steel chain and a LOT of pressure (a little over 2 times that of a 44t setup from yesteryear AND a lot of the larger MTB rings, and mid range road rings), it DOES wear. You can deny it all you want, but a new chain and old cog on anything with have a break in period where they have to wear into eachother, and the new item will prematurely wear into the old items shape, in this case, the chain will stretch to the sprocket tooth spacing etc, PREMATURELY. All chains stretch, the pins and rollers settle and can wear away on the chromoly drivers and sprockets, widening the gap between the teeth. Side to side movement also wears away, as does the dirt and grime. And let us not forget the misaligned drivetrain issues that are reasonably common in BMX, especially if a frame bends a little. Now you have wear on the sides of the sprocket and inside of the chain plates, which you are less likely to see.

BMXers don't replace their drivetrain nearly as often or in that manner because we don't have shifting that is easily affected by wear and a new chain like the roadies and MTB crews. But those noises a lot of riders hear? That's 90% their chain creaking and shifting around on the driver and sprocket, WEARING AWAY. Same thing happens with a new chain on old sprockets and drivers. Unless you are replacing your parts more than monthly, and barely put pressure on when pedaling, it is wearing more than you see. Again, a lack of shifting is mainly why we don't replace as often as road and MTB folks.

For your information once again (and because you like to try to talk down on me as though I have no knowledge) I worked as a service manager and trained under a Cannondale Team Mechanic (and have even worked with folks who trained with Cal from Park Tool) at of the biggest bike shops in the United States AND spent time with the Tech folks at Specialized HQ. On top of that I have a degree in Welding and Metal Fabrication. I know what I am talking about.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura