Question about getting new cranks

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6/26/2015 10:41 AM

I've been riding on a 2015 DK X-model for the past couple of weeks after getting back into it after a few years off.

It has a 175mm cranks, but to me they feel a bit long - i'm 5'5" - and i've been thinking about trying out 165mm cranks instead.

What all would I need to keep in mind if I go through with the purchase to make sure the parts will play nice together?

The bike currently has a Spanish BB, 28T x 3/32" sprocket, 9T driver, and a KMC HL710 Half Link chain.

I was looking at the Profile GDH Spline drive cranks, which would obviously work with their Spline drive sprocket. I'm more so curious if my current chain and driver would be alright with this setup? Would I also be able to use the current BB spacers/bearings that came with the bike or would I need a different set?
Thanks.

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6/26/2015 11:04 AM

If the spindle of the crank you have now is the same as the profile (19mm I believe) you won't need new bearings. If you get a 28t sprocket you won't have to change anything. Some people will probably suggest a new chain but your driver will be fine. Do you ever ride long distances fast or go up a lot of hills? if so I'd say go for 170mm because you won't have much torque if you use your bike for transportation. If not then you should be fine with 165s. I ride 170s and 175s and I'm only a little bit taller.

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6/26/2015 11:08 AM
Edited Date/Time: 6/26/2015 11:10 AM

You would need to know what diameter size the current spindle is, compared to the spindle on the new cranks.

Usually you find 19mm, 22mm, and a handful of 24mm. Profiles are 19mm (aside from a handful back in the day).

I would bet you would be able to use the current bottom bracket setup, and just get arms and a spindle.

EDIT Looks like it is a 19mm 48 spline, just like profile. You should be totally fine.

Side Note, the copper looks sweet! If you were local I would totally try to buy the arms off ya.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

6/26/2015 11:12 AM

Not sure what my current spindle dimensions are. DK doesn't have that info listed unfortunately. If I go through with it, i'll probably just have to measure the current one before I order.

I've been riding mostly street stuff and it's likely to stay that way for a while. I'm not usually riding it too far nor up any hills, so I think I should be okay. I'm lazy enough that if I wanted to go somewhere far, i'd probably just throw my bike in the car hah

Thanks for the input man!

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6/26/2015 11:15 AM

dave, where'd you get that info for 19mm, 48 spline? Those are the specs on the DK crank?

Yeah, i love the copper look, bummed Profile doesn't have that option sad

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6/26/2015 12:00 PM

Just buy new arms if your spindle is 19mm and 48 splined.

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6/27/2015 10:00 AM

pnj wrote:

Just buy new arms if your spindle is 19mm and 48 splined.

Where can I get just arms though?

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6/27/2015 10:11 AM

Danscomp.com

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6/27/2015 10:38 AM

That 3/32" alloy spocket has me all sketched out. I'd buy a 28t tree 4130 spline drive as well. Call me paranoid, I've mushroomed lots of 1/8" alloy chainwheels I've also had alloy teeth get so bloody sharp they'd cut through the sideplates of cheaper chains.

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6/27/2015 10:54 AM

pnj wrote:

Danscomp.com

ahhh nice good catch. I wasn't browsing the right section earlier. I'm guessing this is what i'm looking for:
https://www.danscomp.com/products-PARTS/451250/Profile_Replacement_Crank_Arm_(1_Arm).html

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6/27/2015 10:59 AM

Nwewinit wrote:

That 3/32" alloy spocket has me all sketched out. I'd buy a 28t tree 4130 spline drive as well. Call me paranoid, I've mushroomed lots of 1/8" alloy chainwheels I've also had alloy teeth get so bloody sharp they'd cut through the sideplates of cheaper chains.

that's some good info, I hadn't considered that.
My last bike was so old it was running one of those Kink sprockets that fit, basically, a motorcycle chain. Never had any issues with that. Haven't had any with my current one, but if I can avoid problems with a heavier duty sprocket I wouldn't mind doing that.

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6/27/2015 1:42 PM

Nwewinit wrote:

That 3/32" alloy spocket has me all sketched out. I'd buy a 28t tree 4130 spline drive as well. Call me paranoid, I've mushroomed lots of 1/8" alloy chainwheels I've also had alloy teeth get so bloody sharp they'd cut through the sideplates of cheaper chains.

turmoil wrote:

that's some good info, I hadn't considered that.
My last bike was so old it was running one of those Kink sprockets that fit, basically, a motorcycle chain. Never had any issues with that. Haven't had any with my current one, but if I can avoid problems with a heavier duty sprocket I wouldn't mind doing that.

I dunno if the tree sprocket is all that heavier duty. It's still a 3/32" tooth sprocket thats made from crmo. I understand the reasoning behind it, back in the early 2000's i used to run a 3/16" chain and freewheel with a 1/8" crmo sprocket which helps with chain alignment. I'm not a fan of aluminum bolt drive sprockets because they wear out fairly quick. I'm not too sure when it comes to spline drive I would suspect that wear is less of an issue because the crank arm isn't attached to the sprocket anymore. I'd still be worried about mushrooming my sprockets teeth.

I have a tendency to stick with with "old school" methods. I still run RHD with a bolt drive sprocket because I've always ran it. Presently I have a 28t 1/8" kink astro sprocket on my bike and I love the damn thing. It's a solid part.

I haven't ran an aluminum sprocket in YEARS, maybe someone else will chime in on wear with a spline drive version aluminum sprocket

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6/28/2015 7:48 AM

Nwewinit wrote:

I dunno if the tree sprocket is all that heavier duty. It's still a 3/32" tooth sprocket thats made from crmo. I understand the reasoning behind it, back in the early 2000's i used to run a 3/16" chain and freewheel with a 1/8" crmo sprocket which helps with chain alignment. I'm not a fan of aluminum bolt drive sprockets because they wear out fairly quick. I'm not too sure when it comes to spline drive I would suspect that wear is less of an issue because the crank arm isn't attached to the sprocket anymore. I'd still be worried about mushrooming my sprockets teeth.

I have a tendency to stick with with "old school" methods. I still run RHD with a bolt drive sprocket because I've always ran it. Presently I have a 28t 1/8" kink astro sprocket on my bike and I love the damn thing. It's a solid part.

I haven't ran an aluminum sprocket in YEARS, maybe someone else will chime in on wear with a spline drive version aluminum sprocket

Since i've been away from riding for so long, I just figured i'd give the spline drive parts a chance and see how they are. The Tree sprocket seems like the only one using 4130, so maybe the aluminum sprocket coupled with the spline drive is a solid combo?

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6/28/2015 11:56 AM

turmoil wrote:

that's some good info, I hadn't considered that.
My last bike was so old it was running one of those Kink sprockets that fit, basically, a motorcycle chain. Never had any issues with that. Haven't had any with my current one, but if I can avoid problems with a heavier duty sprocket I wouldn't mind doing that.

Nwewinit wrote:

I dunno if the tree sprocket is all that heavier duty. It's still a 3/32" tooth sprocket thats made from crmo. I understand the reasoning behind it, back in the early 2000's i used to run a 3/16" chain and freewheel with a 1/8" crmo sprocket which helps with chain alignment. I'm not a fan of aluminum bolt drive sprockets because they wear out fairly quick. I'm not too sure when it comes to spline drive I would suspect that wear is less of an issue because the crank arm isn't attached to the sprocket anymore. I'd still be worried about mushrooming my sprockets teeth.

I have a tendency to stick with with "old school" methods. I still run RHD with a bolt drive sprocket because I've always ran it. Presently I have a 28t 1/8" kink astro sprocket on my bike and I love the damn thing. It's a solid part.

I haven't ran an aluminum sprocket in YEARS, maybe someone else will chime in on wear with a spline drive version aluminum sprocket

turmoil wrote:

Since i've been away from riding for so long, I just figured i'd give the spline drive parts a chance and see how they are. The Tree sprocket seems like the only one using 4130, so maybe the aluminum sprocket coupled with the spline drive is a solid combo?

I dunno honestly, like I said I haven't ran an alloy chain wheel in over ten years. Nor do I run a spline drive, I'm old school, I sport a bolt drive kink astro which is made from crmo.

The biggest benifit of a crmo sprocket is part life, at the cost of rigidity. They make your drive tran feel a little "spongey" or "springy" which I actually like. Companies make money off of your replacment parts, especially shit that wears out fast like tries, grips, and alloy sprockets. As long as your chain alignment is good a crmo sprocket isn't going to wear out unless something happens to it (like casing your bike without a bash guard). Alloy sprocket wear out.

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6/28/2015 4:05 PM

I'm the same height as you actually im half an inch shorter. but i run 170's their's a chart on dan's comp with your inseam measurement vs crank length- thats what i did- i think i came in at 171.5 or something like that- but just know you'll have less torque with shorter cranks- but more comfort and some riders say 165 gives slightly better balance because their so close together- if you have big feet i think you'll enjoy the pedal-peg clearance a little more...

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6/29/2015 10:33 AM

dkTechEthan wrote:

I'm the same height as you actually im half an inch shorter. but i run 170's their's a chart on dan's comp with your inseam measurement vs crank length- thats what i did- i think i came in at 171.5 or something like that- but just know you'll have less torque with shorter cranks- but more comfort and some riders say 165 gives slightly better balance because their so close together- if you have big feet i think you'll enjoy the pedal-peg clearance a little more...

That's good to know. I'm okay with less torque. I'm mostly interested in doing it for comfort and to try something a bit different than what i've had in the past.

My last question for you guys, are these Profile GDH cranks decent? I've seen people say they'd rather have the Odyssey Thunderbolt cranks or Profile Columns, which are 22mm, so i'd need a new BB kit anyway. Not a huge price difference, but I just don't want to spend money on something that's going to wear down/break easily.

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6/29/2015 10:54 AM

Nwewinit wrote:

That 3/32" alloy spocket has me all sketched out. I'd buy a 28t tree 4130 spline drive as well. Call me paranoid, I've mushroomed lots of 1/8" alloy chainwheels I've also had alloy teeth get so bloody sharp they'd cut through the sideplates of cheaper chains.

I doubt alloy cut through steel. Aluminum is SOFTER, regardless of sharpness. It would not cut it. Also, how did the teeth cut the sideplates? Teeth barely touch them, they ride between the rollers of the chain...

As to the alloy spline drive, mine is holding up after nearly three years of use. I have brakes most of the time, and don't really use pedal pressure. I also don't ride for 8 hours a day.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

6/29/2015 11:58 AM

If there was a need for sprockets to be made from 4130 crmo there'd be more sprockets made from it. Tree OG spline drive will have you set. Your legs will wear out faster than the sprocket.

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My Ride
My Other Ride
I've sold stuff to Ecuadevil, LLURider, and Mario.villegas90 with no complaints.
IG: evildeadhands

6/29/2015 12:55 PM

Nwewinit wrote:

That 3/32" alloy spocket has me all sketched out. I'd buy a 28t tree 4130 spline drive as well. Call me paranoid, I've mushroomed lots of 1/8" alloy chainwheels I've also had alloy teeth get so bloody sharp they'd cut through the sideplates of cheaper chains.

dave lawrence wrote:

I doubt alloy cut through steel. Aluminum is SOFTER, regardless of sharpness. It would not cut it. Also, how did the teeth cut the sideplates? Teeth barely touch them, they ride between the rollers of the chain...

As to the alloy spline drive, mine is holding up after nearly three years of use. I have brakes most of the time, and don't really use pedal pressure. I also don't ride for 8 hours a day.

It was on an older race bike with 44/14 gearing , and a pretty flimsey kmc chain. Also chain slack was involved as chain tension creates friction and more resistance. So yeah it happened, twice. Once it caused me a few broken ribs.

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6/29/2015 1:56 PM

turmoil wrote:

dave, where'd you get that info for 19mm, 48 spline? Those are the specs on the DK crank?

Yeah, i love the copper look, bummed Profile doesn't have that option sad

Based on them looking exactly like Profiles and like my 1948s.

Maybe call DK and see if they do? Otherwise Shadow has their Noctis crank (22mm spindle) in Copper if I recall correctly.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

6/29/2015 1:57 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/29/2015 1:58 PM

Nwewinit wrote:

It was on an older race bike with 44/14 gearing , and a pretty flimsey kmc chain. Also chain slack was involved as chain tension creates friction and more resistance. So yeah it happened, twice. Once it caused me a few broken ribs.

I still do not believe aluminum cut steel on a bike. That chain like snapped due to other forces, not the aluminum "cutting it."

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura

6/29/2015 4:31 PM

dave lawrence wrote:

I doubt alloy cut through steel. Aluminum is SOFTER, regardless of sharpness. It would not cut it. Also, how did the teeth cut the sideplates? Teeth barely touch them, they ride between the rollers of the chain...

As to the alloy spline drive, mine is holding up after nearly three years of use. I have brakes most of the time, and don't really use pedal pressure. I also don't ride for 8 hours a day.

Nwewinit wrote:

It was on an older race bike with 44/14 gearing , and a pretty flimsey kmc chain. Also chain slack was involved as chain tension creates friction and more resistance. So yeah it happened, twice. Once it caused me a few broken ribs.

dave lawrence wrote:

I still do not believe aluminum cut steel on a bike. That chain like snapped due to other forces, not the aluminum "cutting it."

Yeah, your thinking I snapped the chain... Nope, if I would have popped a link which I have done a few times I wouldn't have typed anything. I also possibly would have hit the pavement so damn hard either.

The chainwheel cut INTO the side plates mid crank while I was going really fast and stopped all forward motion of my cranks A.K.A. I threw my chain, but it didn't come off completely, cut into the side plates, and made me hit the ground really hard on my side.

It happend, it hurt. Believe it or not.

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6/30/2015 7:47 AM

turmoil wrote:

That's good to know. I'm okay with less torque. I'm mostly interested in doing it for comfort and to try something a bit different than what i've had in the past.

My last question for you guys, are these Profile GDH cranks decent? I've seen people say they'd rather have the Odyssey Thunderbolt cranks or Profile Columns, which are 22mm, so i'd need a new BB kit anyway. Not a huge price difference, but I just don't want to spend money on something that's going to wear down/break easily.

lol you guys and your slightly-off-topic aluminum/steel debate...

Quoting myself to get some feedback...GDH Cranks (19mm) vs Thunderbolt vs Columns (22mm) ?
Curious what you guys think about those 3. If GDH will get the job done, i'll go that route. If they're garbage, then i'll probably grab one of the others since all 3 of these come in a 165mm option.

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6/30/2015 8:34 AM

Nwewinit wrote:

Yeah, your thinking I snapped the chain... Nope, if I would have popped a link which I have done a few times I wouldn't have typed anything. I also possibly would have hit the pavement so damn hard either.

The chainwheel cut INTO the side plates mid crank while I was going really fast and stopped all forward motion of my cranks A.K.A. I threw my chain, but it didn't come off completely, cut into the side plates, and made me hit the ground really hard on my side.

It happend, it hurt. Believe it or not.

I don't believe it, because I know that aluminum is a lot softer than steel. I'd bet there were a LOT of other factors in this that are either not known, or being omitted, like grit and dirt being in there, or the fact that your chain may have just pulled apart at the weakest point (which I have done and seen, not even on the pin of the chain MANY times regardless of the sharpness of the teeth).

10/10 there was dirt and grit which acted like sandpaper for a while (which also would be why your teeth sharpened like they did on the sprocket-wearing on something) that caused it.

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"Hey anybody ever make that mistake like right when you wake up in the morning and you believe in yourself?" -Kyle Kinane

"BIKES!" -Tom Segura