Semi sealed cassette hub trouble

Oh and I replaced all the ball bearings in the hub

Knowing that it's semi sealed, I assume one of the bearings obviously have to be sealed. If it's not the non-drive side or driver, then that's where things go shitty. All you can do is treat it like a totally unsealed hub and keep on fine-adjusting it. It's a bitch, so every time you can get it perfect, make sure you don't move the axle hardware around too much when tightening it. Another unknown problem that is like witchcraft is how the hardware tightens and loosens even when the hub is FULLY TIGHTENED. I still never understand that to this day, but all I know is that it's a BITCH to maintain.

I hate those damn things. Semi sealed are a bitch and a half and i hope no one ever has to deal with this struggle like me, and you are now, struggling with. I worked on these MANY times and i can give you my best help.

First off, Semi sealed can be pretty messed up from the start. The driver may need to be greased and re ball bearing'd(??)
When tightening the hub, tighten the non drive side FIRST when tightening your chain. This will help with the stupid lock nut on the driver shifting. Usually, the non drive side stays pretty nice on there. Other times you may need an all new race nut because they become deformed and useless after a while. Same thing with that driver. What it probably is is those race nuts that have the ball bearings sit on them, they just break and make it impossible for them to roll smoothly. Also, if you need a new sealed bearing, you're completely fucked. It doesnt come off the axle and it sucks a lot. You either need a new axle or hub if thats the case. Also, be sure there isnt a shit ton of grease on the driver part because that can cause trouble too.

When tensioning the lock nuts it is best to just basically finger tighten them then nudge them slightly with the wrench and hope that is the right way.

Good luck dude.

Also, if youre lucky, some dudes on here in the for sale section have real cheap and better quality rear wheels for sale. SO get shoveling snow, raking leaves, or mowing grass. Or get a job and enjoy the new rear wheel you have! haha

I hope it all works out. Oh and Bike shops are a GREAT place to have fix these things. if you have one locally, they could probably help you for like 25$

MaximusBikes wrote:

I hate those damn things. Semi sealed are a bitch and a half and i hope no one ever has to deal with this struggle like me, ...more

MaximusBikes wrote:

I hate those damn things. Semi sealed are a bitch and a half and i hope no one ever has to deal with this struggle like me, and you are now, struggling with. I worked on these MANY times and i can give you my best help.

First off, Semi sealed can be pretty messed up from the start. The driver may need to be greased and re ball bearing'd(??)
When tightening the hub, tighten the non drive side FIRST when tightening your chain. This will help with the stupid lock nut on the driver shifting. Usually, the non drive side stays pretty nice on there. Other times you may need an all new race nut because they become deformed and useless after a while. Same thing with that driver. What it probably is is those race nuts that have the ball bearings sit on them, they just break and make it impossible for them to roll smoothly. Also, if you need a new sealed bearing, you're completely fucked. It doesnt come off the axle and it sucks a lot. You either need a new axle or hub if thats the case. Also, be sure there isnt a shit ton of grease on the driver part because that can cause trouble too.

When tensioning the lock nuts it is best to just basically finger tighten them then nudge them slightly with the wrench and hope that is the right way.

Good luck dude.

Also, if youre lucky, some dudes on here in the for sale section have real cheap and better quality rear wheels for sale. SO get shoveling snow, raking leaves, or mowing grass. Or get a job and enjoy the new rear wheel you have! haha

I hope it all works out. Oh and Bike shops are a GREAT place to have fix these things. if you have one locally, they could probably help you for like 25$

...more

The sealed bearing comes off, the nut that holds it into place is just super tight and usually has loctite on it as well.








OP, are you just tightening the outer nuts, or are you using cone wrenches and an adjustable wrench to jam them together? If you're doing the former, that's probably why it's tightening up like that. You need to jam the 2 nuts together using a cone wrench for the inner one, and an adjustable wrench for the outer one. It's kind of tricky to figure out how to adjust them so the wheel isn't too tight or too loose, but but once you get them where they need to be just jam the 2 nuts together by holding the inner nut with the cone wrench, then jamming the outer wrench against the inner nut using the adjustable wrench. Make sure it's really tight so it doesn't loosen up when you tighten your wheel to your frame.

99% of the people who run unsealed hubs never have those specific tools.

http://www.empirebmx.com/revenge-ohm-20-wheelset