So I rode my new bike yesterday

My bmx bike

Sunday Chris childs signature bike

* Frame: 21" Cromo Integrated HT, Wave DT, TT, CS, DO
* Fork: 20", Full Cromo 2pc Steerer
* Handlebar: 9" 2-PC OEM Full Cromo
* Stem: 48mm Freeze Top Load 10.5 oz
* Headset:  FSA Integrated w/2mm Spacer
* Headset Cap: Sunday M16 AL Pre-Load Bol
* Grips: salt ex grips
* Seat: we the people pivotal seat
* Seat Post: Pivotal 25.4mm
* Seat Clamp: 28.6mm w/ Sunday Logo
* Upgraded Sprocket: We the people logic 25t
* Upgraded Crank: salt Plus Pro 48 cranks 48 spline 175mm
*
* BB Parts: 19mm Sealed Mid
* Pedals: Odyssey Twisted Pro PC
* Upgrade Front wheel Cinemma 777 wheelset
* Upgrade Rear wheel Cinemma 777 wheelset
* Upgrade Tires: Maxxis grifter 2.3 front 19 oz and 2.1 rear 15.3
* Chain: KMC Z510H
* Bike weight 23 pounds

Do you have it slammed at 13.25", or is the axle at the rear of your dropout at 13.5"?

Your geo at 13.5" is pretty much "all-terrain" these days... Not sure what offset your fork is though.

Lower bars/frontload stem will make a noticeable difference

Just ride it more and you will get used to it. Its a new bike. Once you get used to it you will know what changes you want to make, if any.

What grumpySteve said. Bar height/position changes where your body weight is centred more than anything else.

I hate the look of the front stem would would a different size help I’m running 48mm

be thankful you even have a bike...

Krooked wrote:

be thankful you even have a bike...

How Krooked is a Krooked sickdude if a Krooked sickdude is Krooked?

True I just think the frame might be a little bent or something

Just keep riding it. No intention to be rude, but it seems your technique isn’t the greatest, and the more you practice, the more accustomed you’ll be to your setup.

One more question anybody the rear frame I can’t just slide the rear wheel through smooth I have to jam it in and when I tighten no matter what tur

Turns left I can’t get straight in the middle just concern cause I’ve never bought a used bmx bike

Theres a bunch of guides on “Pull your wheel and tighten the non-drive side first. It’ll be crooked. Now pull again to straighten it out and tighten the drive side” but it can be a bitch sometimes.

Personally, I jam those disposable chopsticks between the axle and the dropouts for chain tension and straightness, then clip off the excess with wire cutters. However, You WILL need new chopsticks almost every time you take the wheel off because the bamboo splinters to hell and isnt really re-usable.

Post withdrawn

Your picture could be an optical illusion but the non drive side chainstay and drop out appear to be tweaked to the pictures right. Anyone else seeing that too?

BillyBigRigger wrote:

Your picture could be an optical illusion but the non drive side chainstay and drop out appear to be tweaked to the pictures right. Anyone else seeing that too?

oh damn! I see it too now that u mention it. That could explain why his wheel is hard to get in, which i had no advice for. How do u get one tweaked chainstay? Gotta be a defect right?

Michael_Mcduffey wrote:

Turns left I can’t get straight in the middle just concern cause I’ve never bought a used bmx bike

If you're talking about just not being able to center your wheel where you want it in the back end, try to find a piece of wood or something that will allow you to get some leverage on the wheel from the other side of the bike.

I use the handle of an old paintbrush to shove between the center of my chainstay bridge and the tire. When I pry the handle towards the front of my bike, it pushes the wheel back and centers it, so I just tighten the drive side, then the non-drive side, and its good to go.

Perfectly normal. If your wheel doesn't sit straight when you tighten the drive side, chances are your wheel is a little out of dish.

The 48mm is the length of the stem. You can get frontload stems that length, it's only the rise that will change. I'd suggest getting used to the bike first, changing parts won't really make you any better at riding it. But if you still feel like you're going to loop out, lowering the bars will help.

BillyBigRigger wrote:

Your picture could be an optical illusion but the non drive side chainstay and drop out appear to be tweaked to the pictures right. Anyone else seeing that too?

XxCAKEWOLFxX wrote:

oh damn! I see it too now that u mention it. That could explain why his wheel is hard to get in, which i had no advice for. How do u get one tweaked chainstay? Gotta be a defect right?

Could be that it warped when welded, could be a bent and twisted rear end (had that happen on a frame from whips.) Looked totally straight on one side, but the other was visually noticeable like this. I don't recall issues with installing a wheel though.

This could also be that they had the back wheel off and the dropout wacked something pretty hard.

Thanks for all the post guys I’m gonna take your advices and try them out

BillyBigRigger wrote:

Your picture could be an optical illusion but the non drive side chainstay and drop out appear to be tweaked to the pictures right. Anyone else seeing that too?

XxCAKEWOLFxX wrote:

oh damn! I see it too now that u mention it. That could explain why his wheel is hard to get in, which i had no advice for. How do u get one tweaked chainstay? Gotta be a defect right?

dave lawrence wrote:

Could be that it warped when welded, could be a bent and twisted rear end (had that happen on a frame from whips.) Looked totally straight on one side, but the other was visually noticeable like this. I don't recall issues with installing a wheel though.

This could also be that they had the back wheel off and the dropout wacked something pretty hard.

Could also be that the camera wasn't lined up perfectly when the photo was taken

If you want to make sure, get a piece of string. Wrap it between the dropouts and around the headtube, and pull it taught. Then measure the distance between the seat tube and string. Should be the same on both sides. The tolerance is usually 3mm, but string won't be particularly accurate. A local shop might have a frame alignment gauge (which works in the same way but is more accurate).

But having to pry the dropouts open slightly to get your wheel in is pretty normal. Tighten the drive side first with correct chain tension, then see where you're wheel sits. If it's not straight it could be a few things, bent frame, bent dropout, bent axle, or out of dish wheel. It's usually an out of dish wheel, even if factory built. But either way you can dish the wheel to sit straight so you can get some practical use out of it first anyway

That thing looks pretty square judging by the rough photo. My rear hub is a little narrower than dropout spacing, back end of frame will give a little no problem either way.