BillyBigRigger wrote:
Your picture could be an optical illusion but the non drive side chainstay and drop out appear to be tweaked to the pictures right. Anyone else seeing that too?
XxCAKEWOLFxX wrote:
oh damn! I see it too now that u mention it. That could explain why his wheel is hard to get in, which i had no advice for. How do u get one tweaked chainstay? Gotta be a defect right?
dave lawrence wrote:
Could be that it warped when welded, could be a bent and twisted rear end (had that happen on a frame from whips.) Looked totally straight on one side, but the other was visually noticeable like this. I don't recall issues with installing a wheel though.
This could also be that they had the back wheel off and the dropout wacked something pretty hard.
Could also be that the camera wasn't lined up perfectly when the photo was taken 
If you want to make sure, get a piece of string. Wrap it between the dropouts and around the headtube, and pull it taught. Then measure the distance between the seat tube and string. Should be the same on both sides. The tolerance is usually 3mm, but string won't be particularly accurate. A local shop might have a frame alignment gauge (which works in the same way but is more accurate).
But having to pry the dropouts open slightly to get your wheel in is pretty normal. Tighten the drive side first with correct chain tension, then see where you're wheel sits. If it's not straight it could be a few things, bent frame, bent dropout, bent axle, or out of dish wheel. It's usually an out of dish wheel, even if factory built. But either way you can dish the wheel to sit straight so you can get some practical use out of it first anyway