Thicker Bolt Drive Sprockets?

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7/29/2018 10:25 AM

Why are more companies not making thicker bolt drive sprockets that basically combine your sprocket + driver side cone spacer?

My chain line was horrendously off when I first tried using a standard width sprocket and driver side cone washer, but then I picked up a Shadow Conspiracy Align sprocket (currently discontinued) and it allowed my sprocket/ teeth to be slammed against my BB with no need for any type of spacers at all.

Previously the only way to do that would've been using a spline sprocket and cranks, but you'd still need to use spacers in between your crank arm and sprocket.

The only two options I see these days since the Align sprocket has been discontinued are:
• Fly Bikes Tractor XL Sprocket (link)
• The Shadow Conspiracy Disaster Guard (link)

The Disaster Guard is actually a guard/ spacer that goes in between your crank arm and standard width sprocket, but it turns out that Shadow Conspiracy was actually going to make just a spacer that went in between your crank arm and sprocket, but decided to go the guard route instead.

Pic of spacer prototype:
Photo

Does anyone else have wacky chain lines when using standard bolt drive sprockets with modern frames, or is it just me?

Would anyone else's chain line benefit from using a spacer like the one pictured above?

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7/29/2018 10:42 AM

I never use the cones on my drive side, for chainline reason too, only a super small 1mm washer to fit my 28t.

But I don't see how making thicker sprockets would change this, a great option would be to go for a smaller width BB (5-10 mm less) and big wishbones, so it can fit any size sprocket "slammed" with a great chainline.

Also the crank would fit better, because when using the big and small BB spacer the crankarms are barely halfway onto the spindle that's ridiculous.

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7/29/2018 10:49 AM

You don't have to use the drive side cone spacer. You can use any thickness or combination of bb spacers you like, so I've never seen it as an issue. Loads of sprockets come with offset teeth too, so you can dial it in as you please

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7/29/2018 11:04 AM
Edited Date/Time: 7/29/2018 11:12 AM

Francky wrote:

I never use the cones on my drive side, for chainline reason too, only a super small 1mm washer to fit my 28t.

But I don't ...more

Having a thicker sprocket allows the sprocket teeth to be offset and yet completely come in contact with your crank arm. Also, no spacers, or uneven crank arm clearance.

I understand having a smaller width BB would solve the issue, but most modern frames won't accommodate that (short CS and wide tires).

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7/29/2018 11:11 AM

grumpySteve wrote:

You don't have to use the drive side cone spacer. You can use any thickness or combination of bb spacers you like, so I've ...more

If you put standard spacers in between your crank arm and sprocket, wouldn't there be a gap in between your sprocket bolt? How would you stop your sprocket from pulling to one side?

Also, I tried just using a standard width sprocket on my driver side, but it made my crank arm to frame clearance super uneven. How are you guys getting around that?

Here's a pic of the Align Sprocket for those curious (as you can see there's only a sprocket in between the cranks and it allows for even crank arm clearance):
Photo

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7/29/2018 12:22 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

You don't have to use the drive side cone spacer. You can use any thickness or combination of bb spacers you like, so I've ...more

Bryan91 wrote:

If you put standard spacers in between your crank arm and sprocket, wouldn't there be a gap in between your sprocket bolt? How ...more

I mean you use whatever spacers you need between your bb and sprocket, and that's the only spacing you should need. However, I've used a spacer between my sprocket and crank arm before, then a 10mm washer of equal thickness between the sprocket and boss if you're having crank arm clearance issues.
Or don't run silly wide tyres, and get a frame that isn't made for silly wide tyre clearance

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7/29/2018 12:27 PM

I Run a A.K Guard Sprocket&Supreme Chain w/ a single 1mm spacer in between the BB and sprocket, No Cone Spacer. Straight as an Arrow.

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7/29/2018 3:25 PM

grumpySteve wrote:

I mean you use whatever spacers you need between your bb and sprocket, and that's the only spacing you should need. However, ...more

The sprocket bolt spacer actually isn't a bad idea... I'm sure I could find, or cut down an aluminum spacer/ tube.

The frame thing is a little bit too much though, as pretty much every frame I like these days accommodates 2.4"+ tires. smile

I just wish I could get a S&M Tuffman sprocket in the same dimensions as my Align sprocket, but I guess it will never be.

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7/29/2018 3:27 PM

Phunny93 wrote:

I Run a A.K Guard Sprocket&Supreme Chain w/ a single 1mm spacer in between the BB and sprocket, No Cone Spacer. Straight ...more

No uneven crank arm to frame clearance?

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7/29/2018 5:59 PM

No sir, pretty even too!

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7/30/2018 3:49 AM

Surely the answer to this whole thread, is to just counterbore where the top hat washer sits, so it's recessed and doesn't add any extra spacing. I know some companies have already done this but I can't think of any examples.

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- grumpySteve

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7/30/2018 4:03 AM

It would be pointless if it is to add another spacer instead, you cannot just stick the sprocket onto the bearing, the sprocket would just rub the frame.
The hat washer bring 1-2mm of spacing which is perfect to fit a 28t sprocket on most frames (sometimes have to add a 1mm washer).

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7/30/2018 4:46 AM

For my 30t to fit comfortably I use a thin cone spacer (had it years, can't even remember where it came from, but it gives me a perfect chain line every time), the top hat washer, and a 1mm spacer. The teeth on the sprocket are offset (toward the bb) and the spacing gives an almost perfect chain line.

When I had my old frame (fbm hardway v1) I had to put the top hat washer between the sprocket and crank arm, and a washer between the sprocket and sprocket boss to get crank arm clearance. And had to make home made dimples in the chainstay so I could get a good chain line, and sprocket & sprocket bolt clearance, that was with a 25t sprocket! It was a ball ache to figure it all out, and dent a brand new frame. But it worked flawlessly.
A good chain line seems over looked by brands that want short cs and wide tyre clearance. But you can't have everything

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7/30/2018 6:29 AM

Phunny93 wrote:

No sir, pretty even too!

Damn, that's pretty cool.

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7/30/2018 6:35 AM

p1p1092 wrote:

Surely the answer to this whole thread, is to just counterbore where the top hat washer sits, so it's recessed and doesn't add ...more

Kind of like this, but in sprocket form? (top side would be facing bb):
Photo

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7/30/2018 6:59 AM

Bryan91 wrote:

Kind of like this, but in sprocket form? (top side would be facing bb):
Photo

[LINK TO IMAGE]
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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

7/30/2018 7:01 AM

Francky wrote:

It would be pointless if it is to add another spacer instead, you cannot just stick the sprocket onto the bearing, the ...more

Obviously you have to use a hat washer, but that's pretty minimal vs. using a driver side cone washer/ spacers + a hat washer.

Again, my current Align sprocket gets my sprocket teeth as close to the BB as anything else mentioned here and provides equal crank arm clearance on both sides. While only having to use a sprocket, hat washer and a longer sprocket bolt (on driver side).

Apparently others don't have the same problem as I did, so maybe that's why thicker sprockets haven't taken off. smile

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