What do you guys like?

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12/4/2017 4:30 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/4/2017 4:41 PM

So what are some personal preferences you guys must have to be done on your bike? For example, tire pressure, bar position, tt size, freecoaster, cassette, gearing, etc. For me here are some,

Bar position: I like them more forward, not too much to where they form a 90° angle with the he ground just a few light taps back from being at a 90° angle with the ground... having the bars more forward helps me fit on the bike better (I'm about 6'2" with extra long legs) and I feel I get mre leverage on the bars.

Rear hub: I have to have a cassette, I've ridden free coasters and with out pedal pressure they feel super weird, especially with my riding style... I can fakie better and more consistantly on a cassestte than a coaster so I see o point in switching to one for me.

Tire pressure: I like any where from 70psi to 80 psi amd that's where I like it, real easy on the wrists and just enough speed for me especially since I don't weight a ton lol.

Tt size: I'm on a 21" now and I can't ride on anything below that... my next frame will most likely be a 21.25" or 21.5".

Gearing: Here's a big one, I used to run 25-9... wasn't that bad, but now that in on 28-9 it feels alot better, also there are like no big hills where I live, it's all pretty flat so it's just better for everything.

Frame geo: I like a long top tube, a nice sized backend 13.75 feels nice (that's what I'm on now) a 75° hta(I have a 75.5° hta now, but I got 33mm offset forks to make up for that) 71° sta, 11.5" bb height, and a 9" standover...

Bars: I like tall bars (not becasue they're trendy lol, some trends can be pretty dumb, and some can be good) I also don't care for bars with a large upsweep, my bars now are 1.5°upsweep and theyre perect for me, and I like my bars wide, mine are at 28" wide now and love the feel of wide bars.

Also I love to keep my bike super dialed!

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I don't crash, I do random gravity checks...

12/4/2017 4:57 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/4/2017 6:10 PM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

So what are some personal preferences you guys must have to be done on your bike? For example, tire pressure, bar position, tt size, freecoaster, cassette, gearing, etc. For me here are some,

Bar position: I like them more forward, not too much to where they form a 90° angle with the he ground just a few light taps back from being at a 90° angle with the ground... having the bars more forward helps me fit on the bike better (I'm about 6'2" with extra long legs) and I feel I get mre leverage on the bars.

Rear hub: I have to have a cassette, I've ridden free coasters and with out pedal pressure they feel super weird, especially with my riding style... I can fakie better and more consistantly on a cassestte than a coaster so I see o point in switching to one for me.

Tire pressure: I like any where from 70psi to 80 psi amd that's where I like it, real easy on the wrists and just enough speed for me especially since I don't weight a ton lol.

Tt size: I'm on a 21" now and I can't ride on anything below that... my next frame will most likely be a 21.25" or 21.5".

Gearing: Here's a big one, I used to run 25-9... wasn't that bad, but now that in on 28-9 it feels alot better, also there are like no big hills where I live, it's all pretty flat so it's just better for everything.

Frame geo: I like a long top tube, a nice sized backend 13.75 feels nice (that's what I'm on now) a 75° hta(I have a 75.5° hta now, but I got 33mm offset forks to make up for that) 71° sta, 11.5" bb height, and a 9" standover...

Bars: I like tall bars (not becasue they're trendy lol, some trends can be pretty dumb, and some can be good) I also don't care for bars with a large upsweep, my bars now are 1.5°upsweep and theyre perect for me, and I like my bars wide, mine are at 28" wide now and love the feel of wide bars.

Also I love to keep my bike super dialed!

I'm really right there with you on nearly all your preferences. Definitely like my bars forward like you... Not necessarily at 90 degrees, from ground but just back a little. I also like tall bars. Running 10s with a top load right now. I also like a long top tube. Right now I'm running a 20.85" which is fine,, but sometime in the future, I see myself on a tt of at least 21.25 but probably will shoot for a 21.5. I also like a longer rear triangle. I know the shorter rear is easier to whip around but I'm 6' tall with long legs & the shorter rear feels like I can really loop out too easily. I could put lower bars on (again) but then I feel like I'm losing the leverage I love with the taller bars. I haven't ridden any modern freecoasters. Rode them back in the day & didn't have any issues but I never really had an issue with a standard cassette/freewheel, either. I think I found the freecoaster more helpful for Flatland back in the day. As for the other geo's, I'm still working my way thru stuff to get an idea of what I really like. Haven't had any problems with the 75 ht but I'm trying to go back & forth between the shovel & the Wildman (74.5 & longer rear w/ 20.75 tt) to compare. Both bikes have 10s & top load stems. Might try the 8.875" bars on the Wildman to experiment to see what it's like with the rest of the geo. PSI, I run 70-90

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12/4/2017 5:08 PM

I always thought bars at 90 degrees were just upright and anything further back was back anyway I like my bars at 90 and 28-9 is far better for going anywhere.

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Hmmm

12/4/2017 5:16 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/4/2017 5:57 PM

Edman123 wrote:

I always thought bars at 90 degrees were just upright and anything further back was back anyway I like my bars at 90 and 28-9 is far better for going anywhere.

"Back in the day" we always kept our bars just forward of 90*. Not full on Chicago bars but just forward of 90*

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12/4/2017 6:05 PM

tall bars and high psi

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12/4/2017 7:19 PM

Like em tall, 21"+ tt, 80psi for street/park and 60psi for dirt, run my bars a bit forward of parrallel to fork for leg clearance, shorter chainstays, steep headtube for street, standard ht for dirt, 23-9 gearing, Cassette (pedal pressure), brakes.

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12/4/2017 7:22 PM

I keep my bars somewhere in between totally 90 degrees and parrallel with the forks. usually the two crossbars inline with the front axle/peg.

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12/4/2017 7:23 PM

On the contrary...

Bars: Angled so it's the same as the forks, making them slightly back. 10" or up.

Frame: Currently, it's 20.5", but I'd like to go 20.4" with a super short standover and rear end.

Tires: 85 - 90 PSI tires that are no bigger than 2.20" in size.

Seat: Needs to be slim and slammed.

Brakes: Must be working really, really well.

Hub: Heavily considering a Colony Wasp since I've had the same stock hub for three years and fancy a louder change, haha. That being said, cassette is also where I stand.

Gearing: Wanna go 23 - 8, but that'll likely never happen.

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Scooter kid trying to ride a bike. Instagram: @scootereyn // YouTube: RH MEDIA

12/4/2017 7:32 PM

I'm really picky.. my ideal set up is

21.2" frame w 75-75.5 HTA, 8.5" SO, 11.7-.8 BBH, and 13" stays. But I also won't run a frame without dent proof chainstays and downtube since i grind more than anything.
20-25mm offset forks
9.5" bars with 10BS and 2US
170mm cranks, LHD
2.25" tires with about 80psi
Coaster with max slack but I love playing w cassettes
4 plastic pegs w chromoly inserts
S&M Hoder grips or Die
Oversized pedals
Fat seat

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12/4/2017 10:05 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/4/2017 11:28 PM

-Bars must be parallel with fork, and smaller than most. I tried larger bars awhile back to see if it'd alleviate some of my back pain and it did nothing to help but also nothing to hurt it, so I'll stick with the smaller (8.66" rise) because that's what I like. Also they're quite narrow. 26" I think, might be 26.5" I forget

-Front load stem only, top load stems look stupid to me

-No stacked headset, no spacers at that. I think stacked headsets look super ugly and do more to ruin the look than clean it up. plus no spacers looks clean to me, and lowers my bar height some so a win-win for me

-Slammed seat, pointed a tad up. I like my seat out of the way and I think the slammed look looks cleaner. Same with pointing it up a bit... Seats pointed down or completely flat look like shit, but I also don't wanna be doing anal with my bike anytime I sit down so it gets pointed up just a tad

-40PSI front, 50PSI back. I like lower PSI because higher feels like shit (Even if I go faster it still feels like shit to me, so fuck off eskimojay cause I know you'll have something to say about that as always). I like a bit more in the back cause typically you wanna land back wheel first, and more PSI in the rear doesn't bother me as much as it does in the front

-pegs and hub guards must be steel, fuck plastics, and aluminum just doesn’t slide as good

-rear hub must be a cassette. when I wanna do feeble hard 90s to shitty coaster 90 the rest of the 180 out, I'll get one, but that'll be never, so... I like pedal pressure too much, and my riding style doesn't really justify the use of a coaster anyways. also needs to be 14mm male

-front hub need to have a chromoly center axle, no aluminum or heli-coiled thread shit. had enough trouble with those kinds of hubs

-this is kind of a weird one, but I prefer my hub guards grind damage side down... I don't rotate them unless I NEED to, which in the front hasn't been much. Same with pegs. It just looks odd to me for some reason

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12/4/2017 11:25 PM
Edited Date/Time: 12/5/2017 12:52 AM

At 6'1, I like a long and low setup, but I am pretty picky about everything....

21.25" is my sweet size, 13.5" chainstays is my sweet spot.
11.5" BB is mandatory, I switched frames for this reason only, my last frame was the same geo with 11.75" BB, a little more poppy but my manuals were fucked up and I was litteraly breaking my back to hold them.

75° headtube, playing with fork offset, usually 28/30, currently testing a 22 it feels funny, and these noses are getting locked, I still keep a longer set of fork on hand, if I get bored or if I have the chance to ride some bowl.

9" bar with a (nearly) slammed top load, perfect height, a single 3 mm spacer more and I feel way too high.
I push the bar just a little forward like at 80° or something in that range.

I have a 3 mm spacer below the stem, and another 3 mm one on top (in the fork top cap emplacement) because I want my stem fully clamped into the steerer tube.
I also refuse to ride anything with more than 5mm spacer below the stem, slammed looks cool but it's for safety reasons. One head trauma is enough, two years ago I 180'ed 5 stairs, the steerer tube broke below the stem at the landing, bars and stem in hand, head on the ground... KO... hospital... whatever, lucky to be fine now... ride slammed and h24 forks.


Freecoaster because it's just how I like to ride, and I feel so much limited with a cassette, I love my half cabs and fakie hops down stairs, my half cabs and fullcabs to grinds, long fakie lines, any trick but backwards... it's just so fun

4 pegs for the fun or it too, grind'em all, doing some chinks on every pole or curb around, or just use them for some flatland moves or just some really stupid tricks.
Plastic most of the time, but I still have a good old steel pegs that i use on back left to do some fast feeble on a rough curb, with sparkles and everything !
4 steel guards to go with them, and a guard sprocket too.

A high and fat seat 9" + standover and a few inches of post showing. To me the best seat height is as high as it can get without getting in the way, I like to feel it just below my knees, perfect height for hang 5's, high enough to pinch barspins, and high enough to being able to pedal sit down, and this seat height saved my ass from looping out on manuals more than once, just sit and the front wheel goes down.

Other than that... I like 2.25"/2.3" tyres the best and 28x9 gearing is life, 25x9 just feels like a little kid bike.

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12/5/2017 12:17 AM

Frame has to be longer than 21" tt, 11.65ish bb height, 13.35ish chainstays (but would go longer for my next frame), 74.5 ha, standover between 8.5 and 9. Brakeless because I don't like the braze ons for mounts. And it has to be fbm.....

Forks have to be over 30mm offset

Bar height is something I've played with a lot. I prefer a frontload with a small spacer underneath, and currently have 8.8" bars cut to about 27". And bars have to be in line with forks. I'd be tempted to go back to 9" bars with a slightly longer tt if I build a second bike. (seriously considering an fbm steadfast, 21.25, hopefully we'll have trails running next year).

2.25 faf's at 50 to 60 psi. I legit don't want any other tyres.

28 9 gearing. Any smaller feels like you don't go anywhere, any bigger is just a pissing contest unless you ride big trails.

I have my seat up a couple of inches and angled up. This way I can lean my seat against my knee while I'm coasting

And I use a cassette because I hate the slack with a freecoaster. I like a nice solid clicking sound, I hate the sound of the super quick engagement hubs like elites

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12/5/2017 12:31 AM

80 psi on my FaF's, 90° bars, 9in rise bars, top load stem, 25-9 gearing, cassette, and anything between 20.75-21 for frame

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12/5/2017 3:20 AM

Francky wrote:

At 6'1, I like a long and low setup, but I am pretty picky about everything....

21.25" is my sweet size, 13.5" chainstays is my sweet spot.
11.5" BB is mandatory, I switched frames for this reason only, my last frame was the same geo with 11.75" BB, a little more poppy but my manuals were fucked up and I was litteraly breaking my back to hold them.

75° headtube, playing with fork offset, usually 28/30, currently testing a 22 it feels funny, and these noses are getting locked, I still keep a longer set of fork on hand, if I get bored or if I have the chance to ride some bowl.

9" bar with a (nearly) slammed top load, perfect height, a single 3 mm spacer more and I feel way too high.
I push the bar just a little forward like at 80° or something in that range.

I have a 3 mm spacer below the stem, and another 3 mm one on top (in the fork top cap emplacement) because I want my stem fully clamped into the steerer tube.
I also refuse to ride anything with more than 5mm spacer below the stem, slammed looks cool but it's for safety reasons. One head trauma is enough, two years ago I 180'ed 5 stairs, the steerer tube broke below the stem at the landing, bars and stem in hand, head on the ground... KO... hospital... whatever, lucky to be fine now... ride slammed and h24 forks.


Freecoaster because it's just how I like to ride, and I feel so much limited with a cassette, I love my half cabs and fakie hops down stairs, my half cabs and fullcabs to grinds, long fakie lines, any trick but backwards... it's just so fun

4 pegs for the fun or it too, grind'em all, doing some chinks on every pole or curb around, or just use them for some flatland moves or just some really stupid tricks.
Plastic most of the time, but I still have a good old steel pegs that i use on back left to do some fast feeble on a rough curb, with sparkles and everything !
4 steel guards to go with them, and a guard sprocket too.

A high and fat seat 9" + standover and a few inches of post showing. To me the best seat height is as high as it can get without getting in the way, I like to feel it just below my knees, perfect height for hang 5's, high enough to pinch barspins, and high enough to being able to pedal sit down, and this seat height saved my ass from looping out on manuals more than once, just sit and the front wheel goes down.

Other than that... I like 2.25"/2.3" tyres the best and 28x9 gearing is life, 25x9 just feels like a little kid bike.

Wouldn't a H10 fork be even better and solve all that problems?

You really got me thinking there, because I have about 2-3cm of spacers:


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12/5/2017 4:16 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/5/2017 4:19 AM

am-shaegar wrote:

Wouldn't a H10 fork be even better and solve all that problems?

You really got me thinking there, because I have about 2-3cm of spacers:


Yeah but h10 forks aren't that common, I even forgot there existence until now, I'm wondering if these are really better, in term of impact force dispersion or if it more kind of works like crank axles who are going larger and hollower.
Is the H10 thickness all the way through the steerer tube, or only on top to work like a starnut ?

The fork I broke was a Muntiny wand v3, I was far from expecting it because it was only 3 or 4 month old, it was h25 (I didn't cared at all before) and I wasn't running that much spacers, 12mm plus a (small) headset cap (bsd one).

I think I just was unlucky,, but lowering the stem considerabily reduce the leverage, I think we could ride up to 10mm without trouble, even if slammed is stronger, but when I see setups with over 20mm or more I can't stop thinking "omg, this guy is going to die"

So yeah, go for a stronger setup ! you have many spacers (too much) it's not as dangerous as the picture under but lowering this cannot be a bad thing, to keep your height go for a topload stem or taller bars, or both, and chop that steerer tube down !
But not too much, always for strenght, keep a spacer above the stem to make sure the stem is fully clamped onto the steerer tube.



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12/5/2017 6:34 AM

HondaCRFRacer wrote:

So what are some personal preferences you guys must have to be done on your bike? For example, tire pressure, bar position, tt size, freecoaster, cassette, gearing, etc. For me here are some,

Bar position: I like them more forward, not too much to where they form a 90° angle with the he ground just a few light taps back from being at a 90° angle with the ground... having the bars more forward helps me fit on the bike better (I'm about 6'2" with extra long legs) and I feel I get mre leverage on the bars.

Rear hub: I have to have a cassette, I've ridden free coasters and with out pedal pressure they feel super weird, especially with my riding style... I can fakie better and more consistantly on a cassestte than a coaster so I see o point in switching to one for me.

Tire pressure: I like any where from 70psi to 80 psi amd that's where I like it, real easy on the wrists and just enough speed for me especially since I don't weight a ton lol.

Tt size: I'm on a 21" now and I can't ride on anything below that... my next frame will most likely be a 21.25" or 21.5".

Gearing: Here's a big one, I used to run 25-9... wasn't that bad, but now that in on 28-9 it feels alot better, also there are like no big hills where I live, it's all pretty flat so it's just better for everything.

Frame geo: I like a long top tube, a nice sized backend 13.75 feels nice (that's what I'm on now) a 75° hta(I have a 75.5° hta now, but I got 33mm offset forks to make up for that) 71° sta, 11.5" bb height, and a 9" standover...

Bars: I like tall bars (not becasue they're trendy lol, some trends can be pretty dumb, and some can be good) I also don't care for bars with a large upsweep, my bars now are 1.5°upsweep and theyre perect for me, and I like my bars wide, mine are at 28" wide now and love the feel of wide bars.

Also I love to keep my bike super dialed!

Bar position: I like them *JUST* forward of parallel with the fork. Barely noticeable. I tend to lean over the bars a lot while riding (probably a bad habit) and when I look down and see all stem I get paranoid I'm moving them. So super clamped, and a bit forward.

Rear hub: This is actually interesting. My bike came with a cassette which I had no problems with. I picked up a wheel (this was literally before I know wtf the difference even was) and it had a free coaster. I guess when you're not in tune or looking for a difference, you might not see one. I didn't. I looked up what I had and it was actually a pretty good hub so I stuck with it for a while. I also ride a rear brake through and Odyssey G3 gyro.

I had some drivetrain issues that was actually my chain which turned out to be the least expensive change I made, so in that process I replaced the Alienation Rush V2 with a WTP Helix V2.

My only real issue with the free coaster is how much slack is built in without washers. I legit have 2 full sets of washers in my coaster so that I have almost instant engagement. I fully understand why people who get on a slacky free coaster and send themselves over the bars never want to ride one again, it can be really unnerving.

Tire pressure: I'm a big guy so I used to prefer 100psi for everything just for speed and feel, but once I went out with a slow leak and got down to 80 psi I could hold a manual for 2x as long so...I'm back down to 80.

TT size: Current frame is 20.8 but the one I'm having built is 21 even. I need something a little longer so that I'm slightly back towards the center of the bike.

Gearing: I started at 25/9, went to 27/9, and the new bike will have 28/9. Obviously if I keep going up and I'm comfortable, I'll probably stick with 28/9

Frame Geo: I'm going with a medium back end - 13.625. I'm a big guy, but I have a really big range of motion for someone my size. I would like to eventually be able to tailwhip so I don't want to limit myself by having a big honkin chunk of metal under me.

Bars This is a tough one. I ride front load stems but my bars are 8.25". I REALLY think I should be riding a set of 10's honestly. I feel like I'm pretty limited with bunny hops because I preload the hop on the bars well, but there's so much distance between my arms before I pull up and where I want to be when I pull up (if that makes any sense?) so the new bike will probably have a set of S&M perfect 10's. I'll cut them down to 28" probably. I'm terrified of catching a nugget on a barspin.

As for the bike being dialed, I'm all about that too. I need everything to be tight, greased, not making noise, done right, solid, and reliable. If anything is even slightly off, I notice.

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BMX over 30: Eat clean, Stretch, and Pray.

12/5/2017 7:18 AM

My bike is perfect for me as it is now so I wouldn't change anything unless it breaks.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

12/5/2017 7:28 AM

p1p1092 wrote:

My bike is perfect for me as it is now so I wouldn't change anything unless it breaks.

That's informative. LOL.

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12/5/2017 8:34 AM

19.5 frame, bars a little forward, minimal tension on brakes, 100ish psi plastic pegs with grip tape...taller seat is a plus. Bars cut to 26ish

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fack off

12/5/2017 8:48 AM

I've always liked a shorter frame (20-20.5inch), bars at pretty much 90%, 28-9 gearing, cassette (never ridden a free coaster, will give it a go in the future), 8.50 bars, plastic pedals (don't like it too grippy), metal pegs (sound and feel better), big tires and high pressure (at the moment, previously ran big front/small back), seat slammed (can't bar spin for shit).

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If I could go a tenth as high as Larry Edgar goes, then I would still be blasting super high.

12/5/2017 8:52 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/5/2017 8:53 AM

Bars need to be lined with the forks
Longer 32mm-28mm offset with a medium 13.3"-to-13.8" chainstay
20.5 TT
"10 bars on frontload
80-90PSI Usually higher on front/Squishy in rear
Rear Metal Pegs/PC in front
CASSETTE /w a Loose chain
ALWAYS BRIGHT COLORED GRIPS AND PEDALS for better eye coordination when catching

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12/5/2017 10:36 AM

p1p1092 wrote:

My bike is perfect for me as it is now so I wouldn't change anything unless it breaks.

Mishinn_Control wrote:

That's informative. LOL.

I was once quite picky but over time I've built my dream bike and set it up how I like it. It's not even something I'd think about anymore because I have it set up so nicely. Whenever I reassemble it after maintenance, for bar angle and things like that, I'll set everything by feel, not by comparing them to another part on my bike or going for a certain look or trend.

I'd say to just set it up so that it's comfortable and leave it until something breaks(besides maintenance). Changing a part on your bike or changing something as arbitrary as your bar angle isn't going to make you pro or anything, all it'll do is help you figure out what you like.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

12/5/2017 10:39 AM

Changing a part on your bike or changing something as arbitrary as your bar angle isn't going to make you pro or anything, all it'll do is help you figure out what you like.


It won't? Well shit...I've been misinformed! :D
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BMX over 30: Eat clean, Stretch, and Pray.

12/5/2017 10:40 AM

p1p1092 wrote:

I was once quite picky but over time I've built my dream bike and set it up how I like it. It's not even something I'd think about anymore because I have it set up so nicely. Whenever I reassemble it after maintenance, for bar angle and things like that, I'll set everything by feel, not by comparing them to another part on my bike or going for a certain look or trend.

I'd say to just set it up so that it's comfortable and leave it until something breaks(besides maintenance). Changing a part on your bike or changing something as arbitrary as your bar angle isn't going to make you pro or anything, all it'll do is help you figure out what you like.

I gotcha. I was just giving you shit. I'm the same way. My bars are "way too far forward" for most people these days, I run 10's because I like the extra leverage they give me. I have my seat "way too high" as well but that's what I like. & I recently installed front brakes again... because I like them.

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12/5/2017 11:06 AM
Edited Date/Time: 12/5/2017 11:07 AM

I can ride a 20.5, 20.75, or 21.00. 13.5-14.00 rear end. So I'm not too picky with that. I need a tall bb. 11.7+, but I absolutely need a 48mm stem. 50mm is ridable, but still doesn't feel great. I need 48mm. That's what the one part that always feels good. 74.5, or 75 degree headtube, don't really matter. Gotta always be 48mm reach.

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12/5/2017 11:12 AM

TheDarkEnergist wrote: Changing a part on your bike or changing something as arbitrary as your bar angle isn't going to make you pro or anything, all it'll do is help you figure out what you like.


It won't? Well shit...I've been misinformed! :D

That's more aimed at the kids who set their bikes up a certain way because somebody tells them it's cool rather than making it comfortable for themselves.

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My Sunday Soundwave V3 Build
Insta: @p.gibbons

"You can't educate pork"
- grumpySteve

"Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!""
- Hunter S. Thompson

12/5/2017 11:30 AM

Francky wrote:

At 6'1, I like a long and low setup, but I am pretty picky about everything....

21.25" is my sweet size, 13.5" chainstays is my sweet spot.
11.5" BB is mandatory, I switched frames for this reason only, my last frame was the same geo with 11.75" BB, a little more poppy but my manuals were fucked up and I was litteraly breaking my back to hold them.

75° headtube, playing with fork offset, usually 28/30, currently testing a 22 it feels funny, and these noses are getting locked, I still keep a longer set of fork on hand, if I get bored or if I have the chance to ride some bowl.

9" bar with a (nearly) slammed top load, perfect height, a single 3 mm spacer more and I feel way too high.
I push the bar just a little forward like at 80° or something in that range.

I have a 3 mm spacer below the stem, and another 3 mm one on top (in the fork top cap emplacement) because I want my stem fully clamped into the steerer tube.
I also refuse to ride anything with more than 5mm spacer below the stem, slammed looks cool but it's for safety reasons. One head trauma is enough, two years ago I 180'ed 5 stairs, the steerer tube broke below the stem at the landing, bars and stem in hand, head on the ground... KO... hospital... whatever, lucky to be fine now... ride slammed and h24 forks.


Freecoaster because it's just how I like to ride, and I feel so much limited with a cassette, I love my half cabs and fakie hops down stairs, my half cabs and fullcabs to grinds, long fakie lines, any trick but backwards... it's just so fun

4 pegs for the fun or it too, grind'em all, doing some chinks on every pole or curb around, or just use them for some flatland moves or just some really stupid tricks.
Plastic most of the time, but I still have a good old steel pegs that i use on back left to do some fast feeble on a rough curb, with sparkles and everything !
4 steel guards to go with them, and a guard sprocket too.

A high and fat seat 9" + standover and a few inches of post showing. To me the best seat height is as high as it can get without getting in the way, I like to feel it just below my knees, perfect height for hang 5's, high enough to pinch barspins, and high enough to being able to pedal sit down, and this seat height saved my ass from looping out on manuals more than once, just sit and the front wheel goes down.

Other than that... I like 2.25"/2.3" tyres the best and 28x9 gearing is life, 25x9 just feels like a little kid bike.

am-shaegar wrote:

Wouldn't a H10 fork be even better and solve all that problems?

You really got me thinking there, because I have about 2-3cm of spacers:


Francky wrote:

Yeah but h10 forks aren't that common, I even forgot there existence until now, I'm wondering if these are really better, in term of impact force dispersion or if it more kind of works like crank axles who are going larger and hollower.
Is the H10 thickness all the way through the steerer tube, or only on top to work like a starnut ?

The fork I broke was a Muntiny wand v3, I was far from expecting it because it was only 3 or 4 month old, it was h25 (I didn't cared at all before) and I wasn't running that much spacers, 12mm plus a (small) headset cap (bsd one).

I think I just was unlucky,, but lowering the stem considerabily reduce the leverage, I think we could ride up to 10mm without trouble, even if slammed is stronger, but when I see setups with over 20mm or more I can't stop thinking "omg, this guy is going to die"

So yeah, go for a stronger setup ! you have many spacers (too much) it's not as dangerous as the picture under but lowering this cannot be a bad thing, to keep your height go for a topload stem or taller bars, or both, and chop that steerer tube down !
But not too much, always for strenght, keep a spacer above the stem to make sure the stem is fully clamped onto the steerer tube.



Cult used h16, and I think that's plenty thick enough. Lifetime warranty too. Sect ics are legit.

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12/5/2017 11:41 AM

One thing I have to point out, with regular gearing, your rear end will move in quarter, to half inch increments, depending weather you use a full link or not. 13, 13.25, 13.5, 13.75. you can't run anything in between. Like 13.1, would actually be 13.25. if you have 13.35, that would actually be 13.5. it doesn't really matter what it is slammed, if it's a weird number, you'll never get it slammed unless you run weird gearing.

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12/5/2017 11:59 AM

p1p1092 wrote:

That's more aimed at the kids who set their bikes up a certain way because somebody tells them it's cool rather than making it comfortable for themselves.

Hahah I gotcha, just messing around. I'm old enough to know good enough for me is plenty good enough. Plus, I actually really like how different the same basic machine can be made to be.

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BMX over 30: Eat clean, Stretch, and Pray.

12/5/2017 9:31 PM

11.8 bb
21" tt
75 degree HT
9" bars
48-50mm stem reach topload
no pegs
long bars and grips
plastic pedals
light wheels and tires preferably but i also like tank parts
profile cranks only and spline drive too

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