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Why dose everyone worrie about if there wheel is slammed or not? I think its fucking pointless and it would make your wheel hard as fuck to get off? so whats the point?
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I hate having to adjust my fucking wheel and my chain not being right and loose. It's easier and makes the backend shorter.
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Less room for your wheel to slip forward. Slammed is all the way up with perfect tension on chain. Then your wheel can't slip forward. It's meant to be a way to make the back end less problematic
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Location: Bennington, NH USA
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Location: Elk Grove, CA USA
I like my wheel as close as possible but not slammed. Slammed would be me having to force my chain onto my sprocket even when the axle is fully all the way inside the dropout. It fucks up my sprocket and I'm always scared for my chain. I'm sure almost everyone runs "slammed" with one link extra so there's some room to take off your wheel and stuff.
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Edited Date/Time:
Well it depends where you want your wheel really. I have a Frame with 13" to 13.25" Chain Stays & i want to run it at 13" which means it has to be slammed. Then of course as a lot of people have mentioned, With your wheel slammed & perfect chain tension your wheel will not be able to shift forward. I have my eye on a frame that has 13.5" Slammed Chain Stays but i want to run it at 13.7" ish. These were quite popular then forgotten about, A company called Simple make things called "Wheel Slammers" and despite their name they do not slam the wheel what they do is slot into the drop out & stop the wheel from "slamming" you can buy them at numerous different lengths to put your wheel where you want it. Cool idea & i think i shall purchase some!
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It's more work than it's worth since chains stretch.
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I have enough space to be able to push my wheel forward to get it out easily, and my wheel doesn't move.
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Location: Maryborough, AUS
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dave lawrence wrote:I have enough space to be able to push my wheel forward to get it out easily, and my wheel doesn't move.
This.
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Location: Le Sueur, MN USA
dave lawrence wrote:I have enough space to be able to push my wheel forward to get it out easily, and my wheel doesn't move.
same
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I have 8-25 drive and would like to buy a 9T driver because of the needle bearings in the 9 and up. will it be that much of a difference and should i invest in getting a 30T sprocket after?
Thanks for the feedback
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Posts: 1674
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Location: Le Sueur, MN USA
jamiespadina wrote:I have 8-25 drive and would like to buy a 9T driver because of the needle bearings in the 9 and up. will it be that much of a ...more
it will defiantly feel different but you will probably be able to get used to it
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gingerbmxer wrote:because it makes you go slower and its alot harder to do tricks
dat logic
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Xxohioanxx wrote:dat logic
Give him some slack, he doesn't have a soul
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jamiespadina wrote:I have 8-25 drive and would like to buy a 9T driver because of the needle bearings in the 9 and up. will it be that much of a ...more
30-9 is the best gearing ever, by the sounds of it you do big burly shit same as me, so yeah, get 30-9.
I do stuff and I'm not good at it.
I got refs
