Which guard-sprockets have the tightest clearance? Want to run a 27t facing inward, if possible!

Hammer your frame pussy boy

Shadow Disaster guard maybe , most sprockets have the guard out a couple mm away from the teeth and it sucks up a lot of space if it's going inward . Maybe email or check Dans for over width and let that determine ... like a 6mm thick sprocket will be a huge help compared to if you buy an 8mm sprocket and if it hits your frame , you have to dent the CS to make it go

I have a 25t MDS, and if I flipped it on my frame, it would likely kill my chain line. I run just about 2-3 mm of spacers between the bearing and the sprocket on my Twombolts.

BUT newer frames (mine is a 2011) tend to have wider BBS so that MIGHT help out.

Side note: I plan to swap my MDS out for my old Mosh Full Guard sprocket as soon as my homie gets it back to me.

well morgan long runs a 28t inverted on his sig frame maybe just pick up his sig frame and save the trouble

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in my frame. However, why do you want to run it with the guard facing inwards? There's no real benefit to it. The guard on the outside will still prevent you from hitting your chain

grumpySteve wrote:

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in ...more

grumpySteve wrote:

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in my frame. However, why do you want to run it with the guard facing inwards? There's no real benefit to it. The guard on the outside will still prevent you from hitting your chain

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I think fear of slipping off something (grinds on the right) and hitting the sprocket. Or crooked grinds.

grumpySteve wrote:

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in ...more

grumpySteve wrote:

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in my frame. However, why do you want to run it with the guard facing inwards? There's no real benefit to it. The guard on the outside will still prevent you from hitting your chain

...more

Wait can you explain what you mean about putting dimples in your frame for chainline? If I got a 27t guard sprocket, and it was just a mm off from fitting, I'd certainly take the grinder to my chainstay and nick a bit out

And I want the guard inward because I grind on my right side, with a LHD bike, so it's the inner-side of the sprocket that'd hit first.

dave lawrence wrote:

I have a 25t MDS, and if I flipped it on my frame, it would likely kill my chain line. I run just about 2-3 mm of spacers ...more

dave lawrence wrote:

I have a 25t MDS, and if I flipped it on my frame, it would likely kill my chain line. I run just about 2-3 mm of spacers between the bearing and the sprocket on my Twombolts.

BUT newer frames (mine is a 2011) tend to have wider BBS so that MIGHT help out.

Side note: I plan to swap my MDS out for my old Mosh Full Guard sprocket as soon as my homie gets it back to me.

...more

Shit, didn't even consider my chainline being pulled-out further, I already have a problem with that - I recently got redline 'flight' cranks, and the spindle bolts will bottom-out in the spindle before the cranks are fully on, unless I use two spacers - the only spot to put them is between my bb bearing cartridge and the sprocket, so my chain is already pulled outwards from the driver to the sprocket..

grumpySteve wrote:

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in ...more

grumpySteve wrote:

It's more to do with how much tyre clearance your frame has. I can barely get a decent chainline even after making dimples in my frame. However, why do you want to run it with the guard facing inwards? There's no real benefit to it. The guard on the outside will still prevent you from hitting your chain

...more

adfkje wrote:

Wait can you explain what you mean about putting dimples in your frame for chainline? If I got a 27t guard sprocket, and it ...more

adfkje wrote:

Wait can you explain what you mean about putting dimples in your frame for chainline? If I got a 27t guard sprocket, and it was just a mm off from fitting, I'd certainly take the grinder to my chainstay and nick a bit out

And I want the guard inward because I grind on my right side, with a LHD bike, so it's the inner-side of the sprocket that'd hit first.

...more

Your sprocket is not going hit unless your doing something reckless. And if so, goodluck trying. While anything is possible, youre overthinking it.

The Horror Contact wrote:

Your sprocket is not going hit unless your doing something reckless. And if so, goodluck trying. While anything is possible, ...more

The Horror Contact wrote:

Your sprocket is not going hit unless your doing something reckless. And if so, goodluck trying. While anything is possible, youre overthinking it.

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It's not over-thinking it, as I've got a bad case of tight- & loose- chain, based on where my pedals are (ie my sprocket's wrong) So I checked it on a table and it's not perfectly flat, ergo time for a new sprocket anyways! I'm more anal about my bike's weight than most are so it's not something I think is redundant, I mean since I went LHD a few weeks ago I've certainly been able to grind better (feebles 80% of the time, I grind while commuting much more than when actually sessioning), not worrying about my sprocket I can try and recover balance a bit longer, and my sprocket having a guard will just make me even more comfortable :D And it's not reckless to do grinds that'd hit this, one of my favorite and most frequently hit ledge is a couple feet tall the way I approach it, but it's only like 10" wide and if you went over it, it's ~4' fall - in the past week I've had to ditch the bike in a manner that's scratched up the bottom of my downtube and hit my chain/sprocket....if you grind on your right, and the sprocket's on the left side, then you're better served with a guard on your sprocket's ride side for sure (the guard should be towards the direction you grind)

Honestly man you're better off running a guard sprocket normally and if it gets fucked buy a new one cheap for 60-70$ or wherever you live , instead of buying a 600$ frame and 300$ cranks all so your sprocket doesn't get beaten up .

At the very least , get a Shadow disaster bolt on guard until then and see if that helps a bit

peggiesmalls wrote:

Hammer your frame pussy boy

peggiesmalls wrote:

Hammer your frame pussy boy

...more

This

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

Honestly man you're better off running a guard sprocket normally and if it gets fucked buy a new one cheap for 60-70$ or ...more

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

Honestly man you're better off running a guard sprocket normally and if it gets fucked buy a new one cheap for 60-70$ or wherever you live , instead of buying a 600$ frame and 300$ cranks all so your sprocket doesn't get beaten up .

At the very least , get a Shadow disaster bolt on guard until then and see if that helps a bit

...more

What are you talking about? Who's considering buying a new frame or cranks, and where are you even getting those values the nicest frame & cranks I could think of wanting (soundwave and those newer eclat cranks) are cheaper than that...but not once was there any mention about buying those parts, *especially* in the context of protecting the sprocket! The point is simple, I want a guard sprocket and, since I ride lhd but grind right-side, the guard is better facing inward than outward - and, as I've mentioned, my current sprocket is bent so I cannot just bolt the shadow guard (which is mid $30's) onto it, I'd have to buy a new sprocket & that guard, which would *cost more* than just getting a guard sprocket (which would guard all the teeth&chain, not just half like shadow's bolt-on piece does)