bars

Pretty sure hoder highs come in trans black and are straight gauge so they're plenty strong enough. Not much upsweep though which put me off them

bsd giraffic

420bongblazer wrote:

bsd giraffic

420bongblazer wrote:

bsd giraffic

...more

This buddy has them and they're good

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

This buddy has them and they're good

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

This buddy has them and they're good

...more

can't go wrong with BSD products. Literally never had a problem or heard of one.

So they have a good clamping thread that won't let my bars slip

Hello friend! Get a super beefy stem if yore worried about handlebar slip. I traded my old polished stem for s/m credence and ive never slipped once. I went 10 ft drop to bars and no movement.. Alternatively, my hi polish stem slipped evry bars i tried, do you tighten bolts in an X pattern. That is really important too for maximum grippage

Eh, the best clamping for your bars is going to come from your stem. While most issues with slipping bars are caused from user error, something that might help is choosing a stem that doesn't split the front plate in half so that there's more contact with the bars. Pretty much all bars have enough knurling to be clamped properly so buying new bars might be just throwing your money away unless you've really stripped them or really want different dimensions.

Make sure you torque each of the bolts down gradually and evenly. Personally I just eyeball it and make sure I give each bolt the same number of turns and never have problems with slipping bars. You'll see the stem clamp and the gap between the faceplate and the base of the stem shrink as you tighten each bolt so make sure every gap is the same distance.

Madera Mast stem! Clamps good and looks like a work of art compared to other stems. Also has many available sizes.

Get the new Eclat stem with the knurled faceplate and base , should help

SafetyFirst wrote:

Eh, the best clamping for your bars is going to come from your stem. While most issues with slipping bars are caused from user ...more

SafetyFirst wrote:

Eh, the best clamping for your bars is going to come from your stem. While most issues with slipping bars are caused from user error, something that might help is choosing a stem that doesn't split the front plate in half so that there's more contact with the bars. Pretty much all bars have enough knurling to be clamped properly so buying new bars might be just throwing your money away unless you've really stripped them or really want different dimensions.

Make sure you torque each of the bolts down gradually and evenly. Personally I just eyeball it and make sure I give each bolt the same number of turns and never have problems with slipping bars. You'll see the stem clamp and the gap between the faceplate and the base of the stem shrink as you tighten each bolt so make sure every gap is the same distance.

...more

Stems with a split face act the same as stems with a full face with internal machining. They actually grip a bit more.

But yeah, tighten your bolts the same amount in an X pattern and you should be good. Sand your bars and stem if you need to.

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

Get the new Eclat stem with the knurled faceplate and base , should help

Brayden_Buckingham wrote:

Get the new Eclat stem with the knurled faceplate and base , should help

...more

This will just lead to increased slipping. Aluminum is too soft for a design like that. The teeth will break apart, letting your bars slip way easier.

Xxohioanxx wrote:

This will just lead to increased slipping. Aluminum is too soft for a design like that. The teeth will break apart, letting ...more

Xxohioanxx wrote:

This will just lead to increased slipping. Aluminum is too soft for a design like that. The teeth will break apart, letting your bars slip way easier.

...more

You could not be more wrong, if torqued do properly the splined setup will be exponentially stronger.