Car Stereo Help.

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6/3/2013 9:41 PM
Edited Date/Time: 6/3/2013 9:42 PM

Got a car finally...

It already has two 280W Peak Kenwood mids, i have no highs and a 150W X2 Amp, so 300W Peak amp.. don't really want high's to be honest, hurts my ears more than bass does...

I was thinking of keeping my mids that came with the car and getting either a 4 Channel AMP, having the kenwoods to two channels and the sub bridged to the last two channels, Or do you guys think i should get a mono/2 channel amp with bridge, and also a 4 channel amp?

I don't have much money to spend, as i still ride my bike, my head unit needs fixing or a new one with AUX - IN.

Any opinions?

What it has.

Legit setup 300W Peak Amplifier 2 channel Grounded.
2 Kenwood 280W Peak Mids to the amp
Clarion DB215 Head Unit (RCA to the amp)

I feel like i should get either an amp for a sub, or just buy a new quad channel amp and use the 300W amp i have and use it for two front highs.

Semi-New to cars, but i know about sound systems and how you need to look at RMS rather peak.

Suggestions? Opinions? Help me out smile?


6/4/2013 10:04 PM

Get a 4 channel for your mids/ highs and daisy chain it to a mono amp for your sub(s). Tune the amps with a dmm. 150 htz test tone for the sub(s) and 500 htZ for mids/highs. You should also run no more than 5-600 rms if your alternator is still factory and not high output. And when you set the gains do it with the hu at 75% as any higher usually just distorts and distortion is what kills speakers & subwoofers, not over or under powering. You should also do the big 3 under your hood with 0g wire. Do all of that and you will have an absolutely amazing sound. It's been about a year since I've done anything car audio wise but I had crazy flex with 2 15's at 550 rms. I ran 2 12's and 2 10's at 550 hitting 136 db. Which was astounding for how little power and surface area there was.


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6/4/2013 10:05 PM

Also make sure your amp is cea compliant. That verifies the rms is indeed true


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