model car kits

I have a Celica model, I painted it Metallic Black. It was neat.

I have a model of the Homer.

not quite model cars but i have raced offroad r/c at the local track competitively for a couple years.

bmxsteve99 wrote:

not quite model cars but i have raced offroad r/c at the local track competitively for a couple years.

What's your setup? Here's two of the bodies to our cars.

sc10ft (3/4 converted to sc10.2) with a 10.5t sensored sp motor with a 40 degree timing boost, reventon pro 1.1 esc, spektrum dx3s, custom rcrd aluminum chassis, savox 1257tg titanium geared servo, tekin rx glitch buster, rpm bumpers, proline calibers front and back, de racing front wheels and proline rear split six non-beadlocks, kyosho velvet bored shocks, avid springs, reedy 2s 5000mah batteries, deans plugs, robinson racing pinions, jconcepts silent speed spur, v2 converted slipper, and dubro ball links (open ends and tighter tolerance than rpm). Thing charges corners and pivots on a dime. Trying to sell my just about brand new 13.5t though.

Where do you find r32 models? I don't have any model cars like that but i do have a drift style rc.. ill upload a pic off my phone in a bit.

I want a remote control lego model front end loaders do excavator but I don't see myself spending 300 bucks each on lego toys

eskimojay wrote:

I want a remote control lego model front end loaders do excavator but I don't see myself spending 300 bucks each on lego toys

Lego? Wat? I built an rc car out of rusty sheet metal once, ran it into my leg and it gave me tetanus. That was fun. And to ii Krxfted, look up nissan model kit cars on amazon. There's tons of stuff, then search up Fujimi or Aoshima wheel and tire sets, you'll find some cool wheels. I've also decided on a Mugen Crx. Gonna go with stock white, prolly going to get some bucket seats and a 1:24 2jz for more unicorn farts. Because vtech just kicked in, yo. (2jz vtech, just blew my own mind)

do the celiac with the first set of wheels, or paint it too look like the old rally car they had, that'd be dope

Drift RC's kinda count..
Got my FC, pre trim and removing of paint masking..

My Onevia, would be my basher, if the damn RC ran. Monster truck fitment in the rear..

Me? wrote:

Drift RC's kinda count..
Got my FC, pre trim and removing of paint masking..

My Onevia, would be my basher, if the damn RC ran. Monster truck fitment in the rear..

whats wrong with it? if its the motor ive got a sensored speed passion 13.5t i need to get rid of

I need to get a on road rc. I'll probably get tamiya beemer, paint it white, buy black wheels, make a track. I also have an acre and a half of rc race track that's gone into disrepair.

Me? wrote:

Drift RC's kinda count..
Got my FC, pre trim and removing of paint masking..

My Onevia, would be my basher, if the damn RC ran. Monster truck fitment in the rear..

That fucking FC is so god damn cool.. i want a drift rc soo bad, idk even where to start

king_swag wrote:

That fucking FC is so god damn cool.. i want a drift rc soo bad, idk even where to start

rctech.net is a good place to start out, i would recommend building a kit rather than buying an rtr
you need:
a drift car kit (chassis and wheels, no electronics) tamiya has some great offerings look at the tamiya tt01-d
a 2.4ghz (or 27mhz) radio system with at least 2 channels spektrum dx2e is a good cheap 2.4ghz system
servo (motor in a box that turns the steering linkages), savox sc-02454 is about as cheap as you want to go, the sc-1258tg would be best (extremely fast response time and more than enough torque for my offroad short course)
motor : look for a 13.5 turn sensored brushless system unless you want to go cheap and pick up a 27t brushed
esc: for brushless, a speed passion esc or hobbywing are good budget esc's and offer good performance
battery: 2s 7.4v lipo, amain.com has ecopower batteries for about 35 that kick ass
charger: pretty much any lipo capable 2s or above balance charger
rc is in no way a cheap hobby, it will absolutely rape your wallet if you get far into it
look on the rctech.com for sale section and look around for dirt cheap parts
edit: not the tt01d, its the tt01e drift spec my bad

Me? wrote:

Drift RC's kinda count..
Got my FC, pre trim and removing of paint masking..

My Onevia, would be my basher, if the damn RC ran. Monster truck fitment in the rear..

king_swag wrote:

That fucking FC is so god damn cool.. i want a drift rc soo bad, idk even where to start

bmxsteve99 wrote:

rctech.net is a good place to start out, i would recommend building a kit rather than buying an rtr
you need:
a drift car kit (chassis and wheels, no electronics) tamiya has some great offerings look at the tamiya tt01-d
a 2.4ghz (or 27mhz) radio system with at least 2 channels spektrum dx2e is a good cheap 2.4ghz system
servo (motor in a box that turns the steering linkages), savox sc-02454 is about as cheap as you want to go, the sc-1258tg would be best (extremely fast response time and more than enough torque for my offroad short course)
motor : look for a 13.5 turn sensored brushless system unless you want to go cheap and pick up a 27t brushed
esc: for brushless, a speed passion esc or hobbywing are good budget esc's and offer good performance
battery: 2s 7.4v lipo, amain.com has ecopower batteries for about 35 that kick ass
charger: pretty much any lipo capable 2s or above balance charger
rc is in no way a cheap hobby, it will absolutely rape your wallet if you get far into it
look on the rctech.com for sale section and look around for dirt cheap parts
edit: not the tt01d, its the tt01e drift spec my bad

I'd buy an rtr. Nobody needs to start with a high end car really. But I'm into off-road racing. I can go to my garage and swap out to a 3 turn motor. But if anyone needs like a guide to racing offroad or getting into rc, heres what you want.

1. Rtr car. A kit one as your first car is a bad idea, so.many little parts to fiddle and adjust, something will usually go wrong. For the typical racer nowadays, you'll want a short course truck or buggy. (Note I'm talking about electric cars. Gas ones are much more difficult to maintain and keep running.) I recommend team associated for racing. If you plan on being competitive later on, dont even consider traxxas. From someone who's raced since age four, I can garuntee that traxxas is garbage for racing. Now if all you want to do is mess around at construction sites or take it off jumps, no racing at all, get a traxxas.
If you look into all trucks, here's a basic guide from my experience. Racing: team associated, kyosho. Middle(bashing and racing) : hpi Bashing: traxxas

2. You want a good 2.4 giga hertz radio. I'll post what I have in awhile, it's a basic racing radio

3. Steering servo. Lag and weak steering = slow racing. Get a good steering servo. I recommend hitech.

4. Tires. Soft tires with a micro knobby design will be good. Always go for soft compound woth a medium firmness foam, a good all around for the beginners.

5. Suspension. If I were to make any ONE uprgrade, id get an upgraded (or tuned) suspension. Some medium to firm springs and 30 weight oil in the rear and 35 or 40 weight oil up front will be good.

6. Speed controller. A new, modern age speed control can run a brushed or brushless motor.

7. Motor. This is the least important factor. I have beaten grown men with top end motors with my mid nineties racing motor. Mainly because I had the above abd because I wad easy on tje throttle and could control my car. If you do uprgrade, dont go with a huge motor. Fckn idiots that have a huge ass motor and can't drive for shit.a censored motor (or speed control, I forget) will help. A good, cheap motor I can definitely recommend is a tacon.

It's very hard to explain, and I left a lot out. Go find a track/shop, and ask an rc veteran to help.

i think he meant a drift car
i dont do onroad anymore, but what i listed is a basic buyers guide to drifting
also fuck elitist twats who think a slash cant race
a kid at the local track gets top 3 most weekends with a high center of gravity 2wd slash, beating out all the tlr's and associateds

"Racing: team associated, kyosho. Middle(bashing and racing) : hpi Bashing: traxxas"
never go kyosho unless you are willing to spend 3x as much on every part. 20 dollars for a spring pair is bullfuckingshit and the kits cost a lot more, and dont really have much advantage to a tlr
all of this really depends on what class we are talking about. 4wd sc has little to no people using ae or kyosho, most go ofna or tlr
"A good, cheap motor I can definitely recommend is a tacon."
tacons suck a lot, have low efficiency and fry all too easily. front 10 more and get a speed passion and you will thank me later
"Tires. Soft tires with a micro knobby design will be good. Always go for soft compound woth a medium firmness foam, a good all around for the beginners."
keep in mind that most beginners would benefit from medium compound tires for track practice so you get more miles before you drop another 20 on tires. also learn to glue your own wheels.
as for tools, some stuff that isnt always mentioned but is conveinent: soldering iron, get a decent one and some 60/40 rosin core, digital calipers as they are a godsend when you build turnbuckles, camber gauge, pretty self explanatory, and a nice set of allens, cheap ones round out and leave you with lots of stripped screws.
car choice is best decided by picking from brands that your lhs carries parts for, otherwise you get to wait for amain to ship parts while you miss race day

bmxsteve99 wrote:

i think he meant a drift car
i dont do onroad anymore, but what i listed is a basic buyers guide to drifting
also fuck elitist twats who think a slash cant race
a kid at the local track gets top 3 most weekends with a high center of gravity 2wd slash, beating out all the tlr's and associateds

"Racing: team associated, kyosho. Middle(bashing and racing) : hpi Bashing: traxxas"
never go kyosho unless you are willing to spend 3x as much on every part. 20 dollars for a spring pair is bullfuckingshit and the kits cost a lot more, and dont really have much advantage to a tlr
all of this really depends on what class we are talking about. 4wd sc has little to no people using ae or kyosho, most go ofna or tlr
"A good, cheap motor I can definitely recommend is a tacon."
tacons suck a lot, have low efficiency and fry all too easily. front 10 more and get a speed passion and you will thank me later
"Tires. Soft tires with a micro knobby design will be good. Always go for soft compound woth a medium firmness foam, a good all around for the beginners."
keep in mind that most beginners would benefit from medium compound tires for track practice so you get more miles before you drop another 20 on tires. also learn to glue your own wheels.
as for tools, some stuff that isnt always mentioned but is conveinent: soldering iron, get a decent one and some 60/40 rosin core, digital calipers as they are a godsend when you build turnbuckles, camber gauge, pretty self explanatory, and a nice set of allens, cheap ones round out and leave you with lots of stripped screws.
car choice is best decided by picking from brands that your lhs carries parts for, otherwise you get to wait for amain to ship parts while you miss race day

I've thrown tacons in a couple cars, been going forever. And I said they traxxasas are bad if you plan on being competitive later on. Novice class you'll be good, the median race class (name varies from track to track here, from sport to standard) the traxxasas are somewhat competetive, and once you hit expert they seem to just fade out. That high center of gravity is just disastrous, and the lcg version is better, but the price is scary (from last time I checked). And yes the kyosho parts ate expensive, but they work well. We have had tlrs here, but they seem to break quite often, not sure why, our other losis never broke like the newer ones. And I'm referring to rwd class, sorry, probably should have stated that. 4wd here is ofnas and ae. We do have one guy with a smaller brand truck, not sure what, maybe durango? And he kills it. He's always a podium finisher too. His truck feels good. I race my truck, and have a traxxas to bash. (After I fix it)